I can't express how much frustration these videos alleviate. Thank you so much!

Great video. Simply explained. No extra yapping. Just straight to the point. Very appreciated.

I had the same issue with my 2013 Ford Expedition 4x4. The solenoid was fine but what I found was the vacuum lines run from the engine compartment across the front cross member of the frame. I had run into someone's moving box on the freeway and the hose was split. I used electrical tape to tape it back together and the problem went away. It is a temporary fix but t worked. Not a good place to run those lines but glad it is working again! Thanks for the help.

Put the new solenoid with a rain hood on my 2004 f150 and my 4 wheel drive worked again. So glad I found your channel. wasn't looking forward to finding time to tear the wheels off and replace hub assemblies.

Thanks for this video! I used this and was able to diagnose my problem to the solenoid. Replaced it for $30 and no IWE noise anymore! You saved me serious time and money! Thanks man!

Dear Makuloco. I've been a huge fan of your videos for several years and your sage wisdom is souly responsible for keeping my beloved 97 expedition running all these years. But my 4x4 has been non functional for several years. Did the obligatory replacement of the t case motor and vacume checks to no avail. She's 2wd awd 4h 4L. Throw the switch to awd it flashes continually 4h 4l no response. No relay clicks either. Fuse 23 is fresh. Cracked open the transfer case relay under the dash and it ran power to the relay on the board and clicks just fine. Now at a loss. Sage wisdom would be graciously appreciated. Best -mad max

Thank you for teaching me how to troubleshoot and fix my 4wd. Saved me a lot of time and money! I appreciate it very much

Thanks for posting. This helped me test the vacuum on my 2013 f150!

What a Trainer! Awesomly simple directions !!! Thank YOU!

I replaced both front wheel hubs on my friends 2008 Expedition, thinking that was the noise. After watching your videos I think I know what the noise is now. Thanks a lot. Big help and now I understand how the 4 wheel drive works on late model fords.

Thanks man your video helped me fix my truck. Without having to take it to the shop.

Thank you for explaining what each different test was testing, made my intermittent 4x4 diag go much smoother.

This video was great - it did NOT show me what my problem was --- BUT by troubleshooting the way it was explained - I found my issue - the vacuum line was cut after the T -- thanks again you saved me down time on my truck and maybe a pricy repair before the true issue was located.

Thank you for the solenoid and vacuum information. Nothing in the book I have about it. I drove home in a snow storm in 4wd and the front end stayed in 4wd even though it went to 2wd. It was below zero outside. As soon as it got above freezing it fixed itself. Thank heavens. Thanks again.

This video gave me the knowledge to diagnose my problem. Found two vacuum leaks one hole one broken line. One side had dirt in the line I had to clean out.

Thanks for the great video! This helped me troubleshoot & fix my problem in no time.

I have vaccum all the time after reading the through of operation on this system it tells me its my solenoid. I have checked fuses and I have power there I haven't had a chance to check voltage on the connector or continuity on the solenoid yet but seeing that I have vacuum I feel I am on the right track thanks for your video .

I haven't had this problem, at least not yet knock on wood but your video is awesome as always. You explain things thoroughly and in a way everyone can understand showing as much details as possible. As I stated before, I haven't had any problems with this but if I ever do I know where to go. You have helped me with other things and I've learned a lot as well as saving some money. You are an invaluable source of information. I know I speak for everyone else when I say I am extremely grateful for everything you do Brian, thanks.

I've been having 4x4 engagement/disengagement issues on my 2011 EcoBoost, and noticed that it sometimes happens more frequently if the engine isn't fully warmed up. I decided to check out the vacuum solenoid after watching Makuloco's other video on the vacuum hub replacement for '04-'14 F150s, and found that the smaller hose had actually been cracked in half inside the protective sheathing. I tried pulling its connector off the solenoid, but more of the tubing cracked as it was so brittle. Maybe the cracked hose was the source of my problem. Bad choice of material.

Thanks for the video. I was able to figure out that I had a bed solenoid. It was replaced and now the 4x4 is working correctly.

These videos are simply amazing and to the point. Thanks!

Yeah man...Sure enough my solenoid was shot...didn't even know it until I saw this video.... Ordered the part and temporarily direct-connected the line to free the axles for the first time in God knows how long... Thanks brother...

Thanks, you caused me to see more than I did before!

So good to have procedures for testing without pro tools!!!

Very good video. I feel confident to troubleshoot this issue myself. I have a 2005 F150 FX4 and the hubs seem to lock intermittently. For example the last time was I stopped to get gas in 2WD and when I started up again the hubs locked or rather failed to unlock. This was a few months ago and has not done it again. It's happened several times though over the past few years. Been meaning to take into the dealer but it's so random I just have not done it. The first few times it happened I didn't realize what was going on. The steering was difficult and when I stopped the front wheels were to hot to touch. So this video explains some things I wasn't aware of. Thanks

Gotta say, we need more mechanics like this. This type is very rare and is getting rarer every day. Just because you have a nice big shiny tool box don't mean squat.

Om Lord I watched this video and another you posted on the F150 forum. I was sure it was my passenger side having an issue and I used this video and the other one to find and follow all my lines and the check valves . I found somehow that the drivers side lines came off the drivers hub. I thank God for you and your videos.

Great video! I was getting an intermittent grinding noise from the hubs, which I figured was a vacuum failure in the IWE system. Your video was a great way to diagnose my problem. I thought I'd be replacing the solenoid and it turned out I'd worn a hole through a pinched vacuum line. $1.50 at the pick and pull and I'm back in business.

Good Diag video. Easy and accurate checks, thanks for posting.

Thank you for the simple diagnosis.

great diagnostic video.

Thanks you so much. I just did the solenoid test. Going to go buy one now.

Thank you for sharing your knowledge! i have an old F150 and have learned a lot from you! Good camera angles, audio and content! Thumbs up and subscribed.

Finally got around to using the no tool technique you show us here to diagnose a bad solenoid. Excellent tip. Thanks. $35 at Advance and 20 minutes to install. Nearly all of that time is wrenching 1/16 of a turn at a time due to the lack of space to turn a wrench. That time could be relieved using a socket with a universal and an extension. Nearly immediately after getting 4 high back, I strapped 3 kids in the truck and headed for the woods!

thanks for the vid, you comment about the 09-10 being on the other side , making the noise more dominate on the driver side, I had to hook up air compressor at low psi to find a bad part in the tubing which I fixed with small engine fuerl line temporarly

Lots of good info here. Thanks for the video!

Thanks for the video, Bill

thanks your video is simple and accurate.

Helped me greatly keep the videos coming! Saves alot of money and stress! Thanks

Thank you sooooo much ! I found out I had a bad solenoid, replaced it, all good. One thing though...even though the actuators are disengaged now, I'm still getting the whinning "bad bearing" noise. I have no play in the wheel when rocking top and bottom of tire. Not sure where to go from here. Sound coming from driver floor panel like it's still at front left tire or front diff.

Good info. Add to this: if the vacuum tests pan out and the solenoid is bad. Still check the actuators. What occurred in my truck was the solenoid must have gone bad. Vacuum wasn't enough to fully disengage the actuator. Hence, the 1/2 locked in actuator on passenger side ground off the 1st 3-4mm of teeth on the hub assembly. The actuator teeth actually remained mostly intact. Thanks to FordTechMakuloko for this video. This helped me diagnose my issue quickly.

Thanks so much, I noticed my 08 steering was harder than usual and a humming sound for a while, while repairing flange bolt on my exhaust I lean on the front tire and noticed turned the axels and 4x4 driveshaft... I thought 💭 huh is this right, I feel I’ve been driving in 4x4 for months now..

Thanks for the how to as well as the general "how it works" info.

Very helpful video THANK YOU!

Excellent video. Thanks! With my 2012 F-150, with the engine running and in 2wd, the passenger side CV shaft spins independent of the tire, but the driver side CV shaft remains engaged with the tire even when the engine is running and the switch is in 2wd. I think I have a problem inside the hub. It even makes a grinding noise occasionally...

I had no vacuum at my solenoid the check valve on the vacuum line was packed with rust from the solenoid I bypassed it as you did in the video I now have unlocked iwes I guess I’m long over due on replacing the solenoid

Dude do you have a patreon because this video has saved me from rebuilding my entire front end. If I had done that my problems would have still existed! Thank you!

Thanks! Ten minutes and $40 later and my issue is fixed!

Great video, thanks. I went through all checks, and it seams the left side iwe is failing. When in 4x4 and wheels up left side engages axel while turning wheel backwards, but not forward right away. Like a ratchet. Then will engage, is this a sign that it is about to fail. Thanks again

Make sure to check opposite side for a broken hose. Mine was broke in half right behind the tire. 2 small hose connectors for 5 bucks fixed it. Chased it for months. Was checking the vac suction at the iwe and found it.

This helped a LOT. Thank you

Lovely. I shall try these tricks tomorrow. It's snowed hard today...bad time to find out my 4x4 doesn't work. I'll update you tomorrow. **it's tomorrow- I had vacuum from the solenoid both in 2WHDR and 4WHDR and no lights on the instrument panel--m'thinks it's both, a faulty solenoid and a transfer case shift motor**

Thanks for the video! My 2007 f150 4 wheel wouldnt engage. I Checked the vacuum solenoid and it was full of fine sand, so i just replaced it. But... It did not work. Truck had no error code. So when i would put the truck in 4, the vacuum from the top port would not stop. So the tranfer case switch must have to be working to ground out the solenoid for it to work. I replaced the transfer case switch ($210). And that fixed the 4 wheel drive.

Great stuff!

Having this issue now. Truck started grinding out of nowhere I disconnect the solenoid and the grinding stops. Now that I seen ur video I’m going to try to diagnose the issue.

Makuloco Sir! I really appreciate your time and effort and I know all others do to. My 2005 wouldn't go into 4x4 last winter. I thought it was vacuum, did all the tests, cleaned things up, and it worked great at sea level. However, we went Christmas tree hunting yesterday at 6000 ft. It wouldn't work again. I just pulled the lines and thereby manually put it into 4wd high. However, I want this to work correctly. After it sat for a bit, the 4x4 on the dash clicked on....so my theory is this and I need your advice: The solenoid froze on the drive up there (it was 29 degrees outside). Then, after it sat for a while, the heat of the motor heated the engine compartment up and thawed the solenoid and then it clicked over. Does that sound about right? And if so, can you tell me how to order that specific solenoid or give me a part number if you know it? Thanks again. Pete

Thanks for this video. I'm currently purchasing a 2004 f150 lariat super crew and the front left wheel has been making this sound. Isn't ver loud going forward but it gets very loud like in video when in reverse. Doesn't make the sound in 4w mode. So this must be the issue. Glad to kbow ts not a serious deal breaking problem . Thanks again for video

Great videos! Thank you for taking the time and effort to post them. I'm trying to diagnose a problem and found myself here. I have a 2004 F150 FX4 with about 130,000 miles. Two weeks ago the truck started making a rythmic grinding/thumping sound only when turning right. The speed of the sound corresponded to the speed of the wheels. It was suggested that the CV half shaft was bad so that's what I went with. Once disassembled, the original shaft/CV joints felt fine. I installed the new one anyway, in the hopes that the problem was happening under load. No luck. Upon further inspection, I discovered that the coil springs on both sides (the strut springs) were snapped. I didn't think this would be the direct cause of my issue and had to keep driving the vehicle for another week. The problem (when making rights) is getting worse and the last time I drove it, I also had the ice in a blender sound. I know I have to replace the struts so I started the disassembly process hoping to discover the source of my right turn noise. I've only looked on the drivers side so far but uUnfortunately, the hub/bearings/iwe all "look" fine. Compressing the actuator with my hand did not result in a stream of water coming out and it held a vacuum. I don't see any evidence of metal on metal in the wheel at all. I'm worried that there is something going on inside the transfer case. there is a slight amount of play at the coupling to the half shaft, but I have no idea what is considered normal. I'm also hoping that the broken springs just had things so far out of place that fixing those will put everything else back on track. any thoughts or suggestions would be very appreciated. thanks again!!

2005 F150. Symptoms: Green indicator light shows 4WDH is on when selected, but the front wheels would not turn. This video solved the problem. Front wheel vacuum via VACUUM SOLENOID (mounted on passenger side firewall behind battery) should pass vacuum through the solenoid full time when 2WD is selected. In 2WD the solenoid is NOT energized, allowing vacuum to pass thru solenoid. When 4WD is selected, the vacuum solenoid energizes thereby turning the vacuum to the front wheels OFF. This in turn allows the springs to engage the wheel hubs. Which means: Vacuum PRESENT at wheels, 4WD OFF, Vacuum NOT PRESENT at wheels, 4WD ON. This video makes the fix and the logical troubleshooting elementary. I found that the VACUUM SOLENOID had been water damaged, frozen and cracked. Replacement part cost $25 and I am back on the road.

Great video. Thank you so much

Thank you for the video it's helped me in the past but I just recently had another problem I think is related to this . My truck has a loud vacuum leak sound underneath it ,but only when it's in gear ? It doesn't try to switch into 4x4 or anything while driving or make any grinding noises just a loud vacuum leak . Could it be a damaged line or would that try and engage it into 4x4 if there was one ?

I have this problem now and have had it for a few weeks, thankfully I can now diagnose what the problem is. My main question is would this have done any damage to the front diff or the transfer case? They both still do have fluid in them, but I wanted to be sure

Thank you still a very helpful video! I'm diagnosing my truck right now and I am getting no vaccum from the lower vaccum tube when the truck is running what should I do next?

by far the best source on KZfaq, always on point. Thank you

Got one for you 2008 f150 lever is in 2H and 4x4 low light is on truck is in 2H and when shift to 4x4 it works but the front axle doesn't disengage only transfer case

Hey man I love the video the best one on KZfaq btw I did your test procedures and I dont have vacuum from the top of the solenoid when I put just the fat bottom hose on the solenoid but I have vacuum to both front wheel hubs. The passenger side spins free in 2wd and the driver spins but turns the axle shaft. I'm thinking I have a faulty wheel end actuator and possibly a bad solenoid but it's the same style solenoid as the one in the video with the hood so I'm guessing it has been replaced btw my f150 is an 08 xlt. Thank you for this video and any extra help from here you can give me

this was so cool and taught me a lot ty so much

Great video !

Great clear video

I’m having trouble with my 03 expedition 4x4 not working doesn’t even light up on the dash but I think I hear my hub clicking like it wants to kick in and ideas on what I should do first or what it may be. Thanks for your help and videos

My 2006 f150 has this issue, I’ll check these areas thanks so much!

Thank you, thank you, thank you, this is exactly what I needed you rock

I have been tracking my issue down and finally got it resolved. I had one IWE not holding vacuum so first replaced that. I normally put the gauge directly on the IWE to see if it will hold vacuum. Then it was somewhat fixed but would just barely grind after a slightly longer period of time than before. Checked my lines and check valves and replaced a couple check valves. Still not fixed. Then I checked my reserviour behind the battery and it was starting to come apart on the bottom! I ended up using some permatex to reseal the reserviour halves back together and Its been holding proper vacuum. All is good now. Have you ever seen those come apart?

Great video. My 4x4 will not engage (no lights or sound indicators of engagement). I followed all your steps, checked all the fuses, and replaced the 2 relays. I put on a new vacuum solenoid and new transfer case motor. I can engage the transfer case by hand (with TC motor removed). Is there a way to check power from the selector switch? The only odd part is the TC motor seems to be magnetized when I tapped on it. Am I missing something? Keep up the great videos - beats my many years of interpreting manuals.

So I did all the checks and my vacuum lines are getting vacuum and the solenoid seems to be working correctly however I had to replace both the 4wd actuators. One was replaced about a year or two ago for broken mounting ears and I didn’t see that the other side was broken as the truck sat for some time and was a gift to me by my father in law. So I went ahead and replaced the drivers one a few weeks ago along with a new wheel hub and now the 4wd actuator grinds and I took it apart again and it’s grinding down the teeth almost like it’s not fully disengaging. Could this mean I need new vacuum lines or check valves ? I had vacuum at that wheel but it seemed less than the passenger side and the line did get a tear in it that had since been fixed. Great video a lot of straight forward info that helped a lot I’m always looking up your f150 videos for the best info. Thanks

Thank you for you video. That means, that the vacuum hub is in 4 whell possition when the engine is off ?

Awesome explanation! Thank you

Will one actuator stop the system from engaging. And what else should I look in to if everything checks out fine from what you check in the video

My 2010 F150, 4.6 2-valve, was making a front end grinding noise when the engine was under load going uphill on the interstate. Kill the cruise control, or foot off the gas, the noise immediately stopped. After watching this video and others, I replaced the IWE check valve. Less than $15 and one minute later, the issue is resolved.

very good, congrats

My 2002 Ford don't have vacuum lines going to the Hub, so half of what you are doing in this video didn't help, but I fixed my 4x4 problem and I put its on KZfaq go to "Part 1 Ford Engagement fork" my fork pin was broke and the two plastic pads had worn off. Please check it out if your 4x4 won't engage. Thanks

Any video on how to deal with properly connecting the vacuum line. Because when I got my expedition the vacuum line were set up wrong and got no vacuum at all

Was wondering if you had any videos on older f150s like the 80s 302 and 351w

I decided to replace the upper and lower ball joints ony 4x4 f150 2006. Prior to that the 4x4 system was working fine. As soon as I replaced the suspension parts i noticed the hub locks were grinding. I replaced both. Then ran the truck and grinding stopped in 2wd, but when I put it on 4wd it gets stuck when I turn, if I go straight it runs but seems like something is preventing it from running smoothly. I even heard a loud clunk once when o turned. maybe i didn't align the CV joint correct? I am getting vacuum at the hub locks.

I have a 2011 EcoBoost and there's a grinding noise( drivers front) that happens for a moment when I start going forward in 4x4. I was thinking drivers front 4x4 actuator?? Btw thanks for sharing all your experience 👍

I have a 2004 Expedition EB; I changed my Hub and Bearings and IWEs back in March and am now getting a loud vacuum noise, but only under engine load. As soon as I take my foot off the gas, the vacuum noise stops. If I am traveling at a steady speed, no noise, although I will hear it every now and then. I changed the solenoid, but that didn't fix the issue. Hoping you may have an idea what to check next.

HELP! So I have a 2005 expedition 4x4 Eddie Bauer. I’ve noticed the front drive axle is spinning despite the 4 wheel drive not being engaged. I believe that the front system is rotating due to friction at one of the front wheels vs the IWE being locked. While the truck is stopped in drive and brake set I can rotate the front drive axle with my hand which will allow the front half shafts to rotate as well. I also verified that the front vacuum lines are pulling vacuum by removing the lines from the hubs and can feel a strong suction. Maybe this isn’t a big deal but I’m under the impression that the front drive axle shouldn’t rotate unless 4x4 engaged. Of note the truck has a 3 inch lift making the front half axles set at a more acute angle. Thanks for any help.

Hello, I have an 05 F150 Fx4. I have a clicking noise in front left wheel when I turn right while driving. When i switch 4wd on, the light on my 4wd comes on but then turns right back off. I can tell 4wd did activate by the way the truck binds when making a sharp turn but when I try to switch it back to 2wd, the 4wd stays engaged for awhile after

I have a 2005 Ford F-150 Super Crew 4x4 with 5.4 V-8. Experiencing a pulsating grinding noise from the right side front end while the vehicle is moving. The frequency of the grinding noise increases with speed. Occurs when going straight or when turning, slightly or hard, usually to the right. We have inspected the brakes pads, rotors, brake dust shield, CV joints / half shafts, differential lube level, front axle drive shaft and u-joints, other front-end suspension components and heat shield in and around the drive shaft. No issues found on any of these items. I am suspecting a faulty wheel bearing hub assembly. The noise is NOT a steady howling noise or a clicking noise from a partially engaged 4WD hub. Intermittent muffled grinding sound. The noise does not change when applying the brakes. The noise seems to be coming from the front right wheel area and can be felt when it occurs. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!! G..

Just followed all your instruction, and the culprit for me was a disconnected hose that runs from the drivers side to the passengers side!

I'm having that Grinding noise on my 2014 f150. I have tested vacuum at the wheel ends and there's 23 lb. The solenoid is switching on and off. I tested both iwes and they hold vacuum at 15 lb without leaking. The truck only makes the grinding noise when it is cool in the morning below 55°. Once the truck is driven and warmed up. It does not make the noise again. I have ordered a new check valve and waiting for it to arrive from Ford.

great show damn near watched everyone!

Hi Makuloco! Thanks for the video. I think I have isolated the problem to the transfercase motor harness. The conector has been corroded. How may I properly clear the terminal's pins? Thanks for your help

is it possible for this to get bad enough that the actual CV shaft splines or bearing hub splines get damaged and need to be replaced as well as the IWE vac actuator? Mine has been bad for a while and I am just getting around to fixing it. Thanks

Aloha Thank you for the amazing videos! I've Learned so much. Got a question for you. Have you ever come across a f150 4wd that one side will disengage but the other will not? I've replace hubs, actuators, vacuum hoses, solenoid and still the driver side will not disengage from 4wd so I'm having to drive with the solenoid caped to let both wheels spin with the transfer case off. otherwise when I drive the passenger side tire vibrates trying to catch up to the driver side. then i put it in 4wd and the vibration goes away, due to both wheels moving at the same rate while the 4wd is on.. I'm stumped... I've gone as far as ordering new cv axles incase perhaps something is happening there.. any thoughts? Mahalo for any help.

I did the test on the vacuum lines and I do have vacuum at the solenoid & at the wheels on 2wd per the video. The passenger right wheel spins free from shaft on 2wd, locks w/shaft on 4wd. The left (driver side) cv shaft spins WITH the wheel on 2wd and locks with cv shaft on 4wd. If I disconnect the vacuum line I get the same results on left side only. I noticed that the 4wd actuator is cracked, so I guess that this is going to be my problem. I do have one other question, on the left side the vent line just goes up by 4x4 controller box but does not connect to anything??

I’m having the grinding issues I check my suction on my vacuum hose that runs to the iwe and it had suction but idk if it’s enough suction or if I have a leak and it loses pressure. My axle was still spinning granted I just had the tire if the ground that I was hearing the noise from. Reason why I thank I have a leak is because sometimes I’ll drive my truck it won’t ever do it then sometimes I drive it it will make the noise then it will quit. Your thoughts? Thanks.

Any chance you could share a diagram or pictures of the vacuum routing? I tried what you said before jumping to the solenoid, and I am not having the same success of the wheels free spinning etc.

I have a 2001 Ford F-150. I put it in low 4wd and now It won't go back in 2wd. I appreciate your help.

What would you say if Im loosing vacuum under load and starts to want to engage? 2004 AWD selectable Expedition.