Did it fix the problem thats what my 03 is doing

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@@djski2722 don't use a hammer unless you want to smash the IAC

I realize this is an old comment I'm replying to, but maybe I'll get lucky haha. What if the idle only drops out (and shakes the crap out of the engine) when in gear, at of course, idle? Live fuel trim readings seem fine/unaffected when the shudder happens

@@ronnichols1386 The shutter you are referencing and shake when in gear is usually a mass air flow sensor issue

@@EarlGuyton425 I just checked/cleaned the MAF and throttle body, but the problem persists.

I have an '02 Lincoln Navigator (same thing) but my motor looks a little different and I think the module for mine is right on the top of the motor in the middle. It's idling rough though and I have to two-foot it at stop lights and stop signs. It does not idle rough until it's warmed up though, first 3-5 minutes but after that, it's pretty much every time I have to slow down I two-foot it. Is this what was wrong with yours?

You're welcome. I'm glad this helped you, even on e250.

The Original Mechanic: the vans share alot of the same components as the pickup trucks. I just drove it 1000 miles this weekend and no problems. Thanks again.

+covercalls88 Well, that's one way to get it up and running 'till you replace it. I like your thinking. thanks for watching and commenting!

You're welcome.

@@TheOriginalMechanic thanks for this link. My code is reading high voltage 02 bank 1 of 1 and bank 2 of 1 stuck. I'm being told check for air leaks and bad wires. Well as I was checking I broke a pin on my ECM so I'm fixing that then back to the original mystery. And vids on p0132 and p2197 codes?

You're welcome. I'm glad you could make use of the video.

That should be fine

Those parts stores are telling you WRONG. It very much has an IAC, same as the one in the video

@@EarlGuyton425 how would you go about cleaning the coils in these trucks 04 f150 5.4. I read something about cleaning the coils, installing new boots and wires on coil plugs? Thank you

@@glock316 If you have to replace the boot on a coil just change the coil. To clean a coil you just pull the boot off and clean the metal where the spring attaches

Nice find. Thanks for sharing.

That's different than what mine did but I'm glad it solved your problem. Thanks for watching and commenting.

You're welcome. Thanks for watching and sharing your insights!

@@TheOriginalMechanic awesome

Firstly, this is a quite the easy DIY repair. As for the part, I would not have a problem going aftermarket for a part like this. $300 is absurd for a 30 minute (or less) repair.

@richard Edward did you ever find out the issue?

You're welcome. Glad you got something out of it, and thanks for watching and commenting.

+knight Owl If your 1990 has an idle air control valve, it is certainly a possibility. If it does (and I don't know...my manual doesn't go back that far) find it and tap on it lightly when it acts up. If it holds idle then, there you are. Good luck with it!

Thanks. Good luck with your repair!

Yeah, when the IAC sticks it can be intermittent with no codes. It took me a few weeks to find the culprit. Thanks for watching and commenting.

+Zak Harshbarger You're engine may be somewhat different, being four years newer. If they did use it on your engine it has to be on the air intake side, though. If there is supposed to be one I don't think it would run at all without it.

That's exactly what I had when IAC valve started sticking.

Mine always did it on startup. When it acts up, tap the IAC valve lightly with a hammer and see if that helps. If it helps that would implicate the valve.

It seems likely that it is that valve, although I can't be certain if your '93 has the same air intake set-up as the 2000 in this video.

No I did not try to clean it. Considering that a solenoid is electromechanical, that isn't a bad idea. I paid $100 bucks for mine from Ford. Good luck and thanks for watching and commenting.

The Original Mechanic I got one from O'Riellys auto parts for $47.00, didn't help...next up is my PCV hose. I have replaced all of the vacuum hoses except that one, and the fitting back there, which I hear cracks and leaks. I replaced my air filter, fuel filter, sprayed the MAF with electrical cleaner, replaced the IAC, and the idle is now really bad and it still dies after about a minute of idling. The idle was great before, but it would die after about 30 to 60 seconds. Now it chugs a lot and dies after about a minute thirty seconds.

billmcgraw1959 Sounds like you've got a tough one. I think you're right to think it could be a fuel or air delivery issue, but there are so many other trouble sources for a problem like that.

Yup...replaced all vacuum lines but the pcv (on order), replaced fuel and air filters, the IAC valve I went out and bought some MAF sensor cleaner, in case the electrical cleaner didn't do anything, all though it looks clean. Got some throttle body cleaner too....I suppose I could trouble shoot the O2 sensors...

@@billmcgraw1959 could you fix the problem sir?

What was the problem

Ever figure out what it was?

@@roberth912 it was 4 failed spark plugs, and 4 bad ignition coils. All on the back 4 banks 2 on each side. I never had it retested, but after I changed 8 plugs, and 8 coils the lack of power went away.

I didn't get any codes with mine.

Check the hose that’s just below the iac, it seems to be a normal problem with a leak coming from that hose and it sets of the bank 1&2 running lean.

@@danielray1520 what hose is under the iac the pcv hose?

Sorry, nothing leaps to mind

fuel pressure regulator

If you haven't done this, try tapping on it with a hammer and see if that helps. The IAC would be easy to replace. It is a solenoid and it could be burned out and open which could be measured with an ohm meter.

Hi what was the problem?

Your upstream o2 sensor (sensor 1 before the catalytic converter) tells the computer how much fuel is making it through the engine and can affect the amount of fuel the injectors spray into the intake. A dirty mass airflow sensor can also affect this. It tells the computer how much air is coming through and the computer then decides how much fuel it needs to match the incoming air. The idle air control valve is a bypass to your throttle body while your vehicle is idling and your foot is not touching the gas pedal. If it is clogged, or not able to open all the way you can get a lower rpm at idle. I know it’s four years later. I hope it helps explain how some of the components work together.

@@nathanwebster5070 I've changed all that as well as the cat itself when I typed that. I changed all 4 o2 sensors, coils, plugs, this and that. The only thing there was left was the wiring harness. Pretty much replaced every sensor that had anything to do with emissions at that point. Eventually the idle stall was cleared up. Was a missing o ring. I still have the vehicle and I am still continuously replacing the coils. I'm going to get another vehicle soon, just have to find the right one. Preferably with about the same interior space. I might get a full sized van because I need the space with the ability to keep the space heated, at least comfortable.

@@SebastianLong the missing O-ring makes sense. A vacuum leak will cause idling issues and bad readings. Sometimes it is best to get a different vehicle all together. I had to do the same thing with a 2005 Ranger. I eventually rebuilt the engine (timing kit) and a bunch of other things. A family member needed a truck. Once they are done with it, I am selling it. That ranger was a thorn in my side since the day I got it. Best of luck to you with your current/new vehicle. I’m sure you have checked this but if your plugs aren’t gapped properly or are fouled and dirty it will cause your coil pack to work harder.

@@SebastianLong the missing o ring was missing from what component?

I left it dry. There have been no problems for over 2 years now.

Ruben Arreola That sounds different than what I had. Not sure if the IAC valve will help for this one. Mine would die right on start up and over and over again until I tapped on it. I guess you can try the part and see if it helps though. Good luck!

Hi what was the problem

The wires are red and white on my truck. I would imagine the red is the hot and it activates the solenoid in the IAC valve. It probably comes from engine control module. You may need to have a look at a wiring diagram to fix this, though. Good luck!

I never got the check engine or any trouble code with the IAC problem. I think your problem lies elsewhere.

Ok thank you. I might have a vacuum leak, or cracked intake :-/

@@merrimac6515where you able to fix it?

You're welcome. Great to hear this video helped you out.

I used a gasket.

In my experience this is only a starting issue.

You ever figure this out? My 99 is doing exactly what you describe

Did you ever figure it out

You're welcome. So glad you were able to make use of the video.

While this is true, there are capacitors that hold a charge and will allow the computer to keep the memory for a short period of time. It’s not the same with every vehicle. A couple of hours will clear the codes. To to fifteen minutes shouldn’t clear the memory.

Seems possible that this is a bad IAC valve. Try tapping it with a hammer. If it runs after that it's the valve.

The Original Mechanic thanks for responding, I unplugged the MAF sensor and the truck runs and idles but is sometimes rough, mostly at lower rpm. bought a new maf, when I plugged it in, the truck dies again. so I'm guessing unplugging the maf, which put my truck in default mode, bypassed the problem which has to be with another sensor. correct ?

Probably. This sort of problem can be have many causes.

Does it right worse in cooler weather (50℉ & below)?

@@Jamus1975 what was the problem ?

I can tell you from personal experience this will not cause a check engine light to come on.

Try cleaning your mass airflow sensor. Remove the sensor completely from the air inlet tube. Don’t touch the small wire like piece in the middle with anything. Only spray it (on both sides) with mass airflow cleaner. Let it dry for about ten minutes and put it back in.

It did not.

Possible I suppose. Mechanical problems often seem to arise when the temperature falls.

Changing it tomorrow

Hey, I have the same problem w/ my 01' F150 V8 5.4L. Very rough idle in cold weather - like 50℉ & below. I changed PCV Elbow & that didn't help much. If you figure anything out please let me know...I've been trying to figure this one out for a year.

I’ve replaced my IAC valve and cleaned the plug and cleaned out the egr valve. None of it helped.

I spent a week researching. Mine always has issues when it gets cold out. But we are talking 20 degrees and lower. Most of the Ford mechanics and DIY guys suggest replacing the fuel pump. And of course you might as well do the fuel filter while you are at it.

That does sound similar a sticking idle air control valve. There are some differences though. Mine would go weeks on end without acting up and then completely fail to keep running. Try tapping it lightly with a hammer next time it acts up. If it then runs, you have your culprit. Good luck!

No. Mine acted up at any temperature

@@TheOriginalMechanic any idea why it would happen at low temps? The engine will lope at low idle and die. The colder it is the worse the problem. It starts right back up again. I have used various fuel additives and they seem to have helped but the problem still exists.

@@tinknal6449where you able to fix this?

@@nicktomasello9305 No, I needed to upgrade to a bigger truck anyway.

+Mike Stuart You're welcome. Glad it helped.

That's the opposite of what I saw with mine. Seems unlikely to be the IAC.

The Original Mechanic- any idea what it could be. I saw something that said the EGR valves could be clogged or the DPFE Sensor could be bad or even a EGR solanoid

Sorry I don't have an idea. But if you haven't tried this with the IAC, tap it lightly with a hammer when the truck acts up. Easy to try to see if the solenoid is sticking.

mizael garcia is it a 4.6 or a 5.4? not sure if you fixed the problem but the throttle body on these engines get gummed up and make the flap stick an easy and free fix is to removw tge throttle body and clean it really good. Good Luck

No it didn't.

@@TheOriginalMechanic thankyou very much for responding. It turned out to be that rubber pipe shaped hose on back of intake had come off. Put it back on and ran good.

@@rogercollins8875 good find!