No problem at all and glad it helps

I own a 2013 Ford Cmax. I just checked the cover of the Engine is different. I am not sure the Cmax has the same Fuel Filter

@@rubberduckyconvoy2723Thanks for the info - I will check it out before I start with the filter change on my Grand C-Max 🙂

Hi, there is no in tank pump on these though a small amount of air in that pipe is fine(and normal) as it will get pulled out at the hp pump through its return line. I’m not sure how bad the air/bubbles are but the connectors can get damaged over time and draw air in which can cause rough running/cutting out etc

Any kind of bleeding tool is fine. Take your time and wait until you have a solid stream of fuel and fire it over, you will be fine. If it doesn’t fire up first time, go again and keep trying

@@thegasketshead1416 thanks buddy. I’ve ordered a sealey pump and will use that to bleed it.

Hi mate. Just did this tonight after watching the video. With hand pump I recommend bleeding the from the filter outlet spigot then reconnecting that quickly first to ensure all air out of the filter. Then bleed from the return pipe as in the video. I learnt this the hard way this evening on s-max - got it running in the end.

Not 100% sure the seal can be replaced(I might be wrong though!). If not there are companies that sell connector repair kits or a new pipe might be in order.

Some have a metal plate covering it and can be removed easily to access the filter

@@thegasketshead1416 I did the job today myself, had a minor issue with draining the air from the system, I used 2 pumps but they were not strong enough to pull the air through filter and fuel rail to return pipe. I used a hand pump, then medium size bottle pump, ended up using quite a big pump I had for swimming pool. Got it done in the end, 5 minute job with right kit. Excellent video and helped me alot. Cheers mate, keep up the good work, look forward to more content.

If you’ve been trying to crank it for a while you can drain the battery(especially if it’s an older one). Get the battery on charge and try to bleed again.

@The Gaskets Head cheers mate. Will give it a try.

If you can, fill it with fuel using a large syringe or baster through one of the outlets on the housing then try to start/re bleed

@@thegasketshead1416 thanks Ill give it a go.

From memory there is a bolt at the bottom of the metal plate. It should come away easily once the bolts are out though

@@thegasketshead1416 Nice,, i must have missed it. At least I had practice bleeding it!

It’s 10mm outer diameter, but 8mm will probably be fine if it’s quite supple

Ford only sell it with the pipe but there are companies like laser tools etc who sell repair kits.

Have all the connectors been plugged back in correctly?

@@thegasketshead1416 yes they are and even bled the injecters and fuel rail to make sure

Says enjin system fault

You can if you really want to but I have changed hundreds of these and tried that, doesn’t really make any difference to be honest. If it was quite bad then I would but in this case it isn’t really needed.

It’s because of the use of fuel from starting after bleeding. Clear the trip on the dash and will be back to normal(if not slightly better) after a few consistent drives

@@thegasketshead1416 I have already cleared the trip and done a few local trips and the figure is 28mpg! I am wondering if I have bled it correctly or if there may still be air in the lines perhaps?

@@gullhussain1 if it starts and runs fine then there will be no air in the system. It may take a while before you start to see the your normal mpg figures return depending how many/type of drives you do

@@thegasketshead1416 Thabks for the info. I will run it for a few weeks and report back here. Is there anything else that could be hindering the mpg?

There is an internal o’ring or compression fitting g depending on the pipe but should seal without issue.