"Nice, easy, simple repair." The four most dangerous words in the professional mechanic's lexicon. LOL

Up here in the Northeast we put a dab of never seize only on the shank, not the threads as the smooth section of the plug likes to seize into the block and snaps off when removing. You are correct on replacing those 100,000 mile plugs at 50k to prevent the problem. Great video!

That engine didn't even shake at all on startup. What a smooth running machine. Ford did well with these 4.6s

Ray is' maturing...becoming a "true Ford Man...he's even selling merch and putting decals on his truck🎉🎉🎉

Anti-seize became a thing when early aluminum heads regularly experienced spark plugs seizing at high mileage. I remember a Toyota TSB advising to remove the spark plugs on the early 2azfe engines and to apply anti-seize. This was a crush washer application and did not create an over-torque situation if you torqued by degree of rotation. My best guess is the OEM did not apply the silver paint to the threads on those engines.

Agree about the anti seize, or copper grease, except on Fords. Never had any dealings with a Mustang, or any Ford V8, in fact, but the smaller engines, used in the European cars are very keen to hold onto their plugs, especially the ones with taper seats, rather than crush washers. The only plug I ever broke off was in one of those, which became a very expensive tune up, lasting over a week. Lesson learned. I always use a little smear of coppaslip on the taper, then use extreme caution putting them in. I also always check I can get them out, before estimating for a job, now. The ohc engines are probably safer, because of the large thread and hex head, but the push rod engines are particularly vulnerable with their tiny hex plugs.

Been a Mustang GT owner since 2006 and I change spark plugs every 2 years (40000 miles on the car now.). I put anti seize every time. You put it on the non threaded portion of the SP so the carbon can't billed up. That's what causes the 2 pc SP to break.

Ray, PLEASE Take all the plugs back out and apply a very small ammout of anti-seize to the smooth area of the plug. This will prevent the plug from ever seizing in the head and causing the plug to break off in the head. This a a known issue with the 05-07 4.6l 3v heads. The plug thread design was changed out in 2008.

Actually, Ford called for antisieze on the spark plug of the early 3V engines (the infamous 2 peice spark plugs) but only on the extended portion of the plugs, not on the threads.

Those plugs have a heatsink on them that goes into the cylinder head. You use anti sieze on that part only. The ones you have are the new generation which does not seperate.

Old engine tip: Sometimes use anti-sieze on plug threads if gasses are leaking past the threads.

Coils and plugs on this vehicle are much more accessible than on my'03 Expedition. That's why I went ahead and replaced all the coils and plugs at the same time around 90K. Well, I didn't replace them, the mechanic did. I had already had 3 coils go bad, so replacing them all was a good idea.

Had some water issues with the horn wiring on my vehicle, so I figured I'd use some dielectric grease. Accidentally ordered dialectic grease, and now I have to have a reasoned debate with my car before it lets me drive.

We need to get Troy to start his own channel. Getting serious FOMO on some of the stuff we've seen him work on.

Happy Sunday Ray. Preparing for a Sunday Brunch and watching a master at work.

I use the factory recommended anti-seize on the spark plugs on my aircraft engine. I figure they designed it and made it, so they should know best. But for my car engine, I've never used anti-seize. Cheers from Winnipeg.

I got anxiety every time you went to remove a plug lmao, 3v plugs are notorious for breaking in half inside the head due to that stupid two piece plug design. Good work Ray!

Hey what ever happened to the Subaru that head a broken bolt in it. We’re all curious to what you ended up doing.

You used the phrase "these ones", the word "ones" is not needed. Love your videos, and admire your verbal skills!

Replaced the spark plugs on my 2007 Mustang GT 4.6L. Snapped 2 and zipped the rest out with an impact driver. Had 2 buy the extraction tool from amazon. Put in new Champion plugs. plenty of di-electric grease everywhere.

Good morning Ray , sometimes gravy jobs turn into a headache reel quick . Looks like this one is a successful fix . Cool . You and Troy have a great day . 👍🇺🇸🚗

I am a Ford guy and you are not wrong about those heads being sensitive in the spark plug area for sure. It was a troubling time when one of them stripped out...or blows out while driving.

I may congratulate you on having the Cranberries on your playlist. That is excellent music.

rainman ray ... he repairs engines with a vengeance... There's your new T-shirt slogan

I like your eye for detail. You're the kind of mechanic i would trust to bring my car to👍

23:54 Message reminds me of Creative's Sound Blaster software installation for DOS and Windows 3x on my 486 in the late-1990s, LOL. 😂 ("One Moment Please...")

I always use copper anti seize on spark especially if they are going into aluminum heads as the anti seize stops galvanic rust

Always nice to have a easy job once in awhile after dealing with weeks on end hard Or frustrating jobs like transmission removals or engine rebuild jobs @Rainman Ray's Repairs

Woo Hoo my withdrawal symptoms from no rain man ray repair videos have ceased, we are back to videos on a daily and everything is right with the world. Well, not really the world is a mess! Everything is right with MY world, my little existence bubble!!

I only do Toyotas. In all these years I have never broken a coil connector. I was curious after watching what you do so I took an old harness I had here and stuck a coil in it and did your pry trick. Yep that snapped right off.

I serious watch all your vids from start to present while working.

Loving the music during the high speed motion segments! Best KZfaq has to offer!!

I always worried that small things would jump into the spark plug holes, those 8 Honda ones were sticking straight up. Glad you got your second roll up in, still like when you use BOTH hands to work. Great vids you all, how many employees you got BOSS, LOL

Notification SQUAD, Have a nice weekend!🔥🔥🔥

I used to break off at least 1 or more plugs when I did the high mileage 3v motors. I'd soak them , work them slowly in and out but didn't it really matter. An old ford mechanic told me to use an impact full send to take them out. I was hesitant but tried it. I haven't broken one in the last 12-13 cars i have done. He told me the impact action shears away the carbon buildup at the tip of the plug. I know some of you are going to talk smack, Try it before you say it a bad idea!!!! I works for me!!!!

thankyou Ray,an enjoyable easy task completed without any issues..👌👍

I agree Ray, If you check the Spark plug Manufacturers they specifically say DON'T LUBRICATE.

The closed electrode appears to be an attempt to make a fixed plug gap, in that it can not open or close. Anti seize on plugs just makes them a pig to get out, once the grease has cooked out, once you have done it there is no spinning the plug out easily. I might be prejudiced but in my experience one tube of copperslip is enough to contaminate four toolboxes for 35 years.

Those look like the plugs in the 3valve Triton engines that would break off..😮

Another great video Ray your the man nice easy Sunday fix but the most important thing is to have your self a great day Ray

Good info for my 2011 Ford Taurus SEL. Due for spark plug servce.

I totally agree with your theory on using anti seize but in the Cummins manual they actually specify using anti seize while reinstalling certain components to achieve proper torque. They also state that on some suspension components for heavy trucks.

Plugs are essentially lubricated with a plating designed to prevent sticking. The no antisieze argument is mostly because you can foul the plug with it. BTW the plating on the plug only works on initial installation

one other more important thing about 'anti-seize' is if any gets on the inside threaded part inside the comubstion chamber the heat will turn it into a huge hard carbonized glob and next time you go to remove the plugs that glob will wipe out the threads in the head. Seen it happen many times, and actually had it happen to me and i had to install a spark plug rethread kit on it. Iron heads it doesn't affect so much, but the aluminum heads 100% fail guaranteed. as far as torquing? well if you're a good tech and have a good feel for it you don't really need to, most good tech's know how much to tighten them without over doing it. Same goes for oil filters and drain plugs. Most of us have encountered an over torqued plug or filter and it really does suck. I myself when i was younger was very over confident and always thought ya had to just wrench everything down to maximum to make sure it won't come loose, i found out the hard way many times before i realized it doesn't have to be that way. Ever since then i've never had any issues.

Never say nice easy job Ray u know something will break it's a mechanic thing

Ray, thanks

I anti-seize plugs on my personal vehicles because I have had to hammer a 9/16 socket and use a torch to remove old seized, and rounded spark plugs. Cast iron heads of course.

Nice change for you Ray an easy one, also nice to see the BEAST back in the shop. Keep Safe Keep Strong 🦘🦘🦘🦘💖💖

The most easy cars to work on and among the most reliable anyway. Ford! Built tough.

Ray if a torque value is met then it's not over torqued.

I always bought GM and Toyota sports cars. Always wanted to own a Mustang, so I bought one. I Love it! It is a lot easier to change the spark plugs than any GM! Downside is the tranny went out at 68k and then went out again at 70k.

4.6L is a great engine

I used to own a car just like that where I bought brand new several years ago and sold it a few yrs back most reliable car and one of the easiest to repair I've ever owned.

Up north we never put anti-seize.

The amount of horror stories I've read getting these plugs out, I'm surprised you got away with nothing breaking

I changed the plugs on a 4.6 lincoln and it as easy as what you did. I do have a special procedure for changing the plugs on a 5.4 3 valve which does have a tendency to leave the ground electrode as part of the head! At 100000 miles or more those things can be a bear to get out in 1 piece. Most F150's are real fun to tune up anyway.

Those factory plugs really didn't need to be changed. Looking as good as they were and only after 50k miles.

Those long tube plugs are notorious for breaking when you wait till recommended mileage. Some folks save money by removing and reinstalling them at half life to prevent breakage

Anti seize on this particular generation of the ford modular V8 with the 3v heads is very much needed, however only on the long shield that goes into the head. These plugs from 2005 to 2009 are prone to get stuck in the heads. I had one of these cars. Lovely car IMHO.

Wow what a beautiful mustang she is gorgeous

Love the shop musical selections.....

Those springs come out easy if you thread them out. I've always replaced boots and plugs as a set. Too many times the misfire was carbon tracking inside the boot that you can't see. Note about scan tools; Chrysler had issues back in the 90's that if you if you unplugged the scanner without powering down the car you took the chance of resetting the computer charge voltage to "0" and the alt would never work again unless the Processor was re-flashed to correct the voltage setting. So always turn car off before unplugging is a good habit.

Totally agree with you could easily overtorque

Hey Ray, a little behind never hurt anyone...jes sain

Hi Ray

I'd love to have enough money saved to move where you are and apprentice under you. I'm a vise grip certification, KZfaq specialist right now. I also was hoping those spark plugs weren't the 2 piece design! You got lucky hahaha! Gr8 job Ray!

If you are planning a long term occupancy at the shop ,perhaps piping air to each work station would be helpful unless your compressor won't produce adequate volume

Yeh back in my day before blowers, I use to use a straw to blow out debris in spark plug hole, lol!!

Nice repair but I was looking forward for a short test drive in the Mustang just to hear the engine :-). It's a really nice beast of a car.

2 piece plugs, I was almost hoping you would snap one, had 5 out of 8 snap in half on a 5.4 Triton 3 valve...high stress!

First time i've ever used antiseize was my 2.0 ecoboost. Removing the old plugs was pure anxiety as the torque needed to break the plugs free was concerning and then it was followed by the crying of bone dry threads all the way out. Only put about 2 threads of the antiseize on and the install torque is only 10 ft/lbs.

I was surprised how dirty it was under the hood . Looking at the car is seems like the owner takes good care of it . Maybe the next time they are washing the car they can wash under the hood . I know , my OCD kicked in .

Another appearance of the Air-15!

Hey Ray, i am suprized you didnt snap any off as they are known to do, thats why i didnt do mine. I had a garage do mine and none snapped off. But if i had have done it, they all would have snapped.

"end of day. scan tool reeds noon?" another easy one ive probably done a thousand times my old fords have coil and leads

I like that you slow torque things, I've seen guys slam the torque wrench as fast as possible. Not only do you get false readings but you also throw your torque wrench out of calibration and it's not cheap to have them repaired and also the time your without it unless you have a backup. In fact when I worked for FORD and went to school for the BMW diesel in the Continental we were told when torquing stretch bolts like heads torque then work on something else or get a coffee and come back for the next step and repeat a coffee run if a 3rd step. Give the bolts time to settle between torques. Also about the plugs blowing out of the heads, I wonder if the insufficient threads was the issue with all the 255 engines used in 80 because I had a lot of them with the same issue of plugs blowing out.

Great work !

People should realise that as a mechanic you get a feel for the amount of torque required for a lot of the bolts, fasteners etc (muscle memory). If you torqued every bolt or fastener on a job then the job would probably take twice as long to do, that and I would probably not do it on a lot of fasteners where it's not as critical to be a little slacker or tighter than specified.

on the plugs redesign, they did it because the original design has a nasty tendency to accumulate carbon that freezes the spark plug in the head and causing the plugs to break in half on removal (ask me how I know). Ford actually designed a special plug extraction tool because of the problem as well as redesigning the plugs themselves.

i did all 8 of my plugs, ford wanted more than 1000 for the job. now im trying to work on my brakes , i have new pads and rotors but the brake petal still goes to the floor b4 the car stops

The original plugs in 05 to mid 08 would frequently come apart on removal. 4.6 & 5.4 engines. Ford finally made the plug from a single piece that "fixes" this issue .Late 08 thru 10 use a conventional design plug. People used anti seize on the smooth part to try to avoid broken plugs that can be witch to get out.

Boys and their toys.who needs that mustang high insurance,high maintenance,only can put premium feul in.

I always do a coil pack kit not that much and always run much better

Ford and there 3 valve Specialty 2 peice spark plugs that are notorious for coming apart during removal good to see they all came out just fine Even though this mustang don't have a triton 3 valve 😂 @Rainman Ray's Repairs

You got lucky thinking this was easy. These plugs were notorious for snapping off in the block. Great video Ray, made me riminess about my old 2005 Mustang GT. First ever car I owned that I bought brand spankin' new. 👍

I just changed my plugs in my Mercury Grand Marquis 4.6. 150000 miles. Plugs were still in very good shape. Could have doubled the mileage. Motorcraft plugs are the way to go. I have gotten over 200000 miles on a 460 V8. Those could have gone longer. Is the 4.6 E85 or regular gas. The plugs are different.

Good morning Ray

Nice job… you made it look so easy you did it one handed..

Good afternoon Mr Ray hope y'all have a wonderful day

I have done plugs on my cars without anti seize and using a torque wrench. I have found those plugs to be loose the next time they are changed. Now, I use a little anti-seize and torque them by the instructions with the plug, 1/2 - 3/4 turn after bottoming out by hand to set the crush washer. However you do it, if it turns out it’s not giving you good results, you should try it a different way. Not every car is the same, and most mechanics don’t do 3 to 4 spark plug changes on the same car, so they’re assuming what the last guy did. I agree you shouldn’t use a torque wrench with a lubricant unless the manual gives you the spec for that. A lot of cars I’ve done, the spark plugs come out oily, and the threads are oily so you are already dealing with lubed threads. Using a swivel will also give an inaccurate final torque. In those cases, follow the 1/2-3/4 turn past seated hand tight (or whatever the box shows to seat them).

Fast and easy. Thx

Another minute for a ride on the mustang would have been nice. Giddy up horse !

Hi Ray, as an old shade tree macanic I was told you should always let an aluminum head engine cool to ambient temperature before attempting to removing spark plugs do to the dissimilar metals so you don't damage the aluminum threads in the head. Your thoughts????

Thanks for the blow by blow commentary 😉

I've never had a super easy job, if i said i was. I believe that's an opening for a good round of jinx's and Murphy's law in the making.

At least they gave you room to change plugs

you should put lube on the spring end

I thought troy broke that hose reel. that is a fine looking mustang

Antisieze was used in the old days when plugs screwed into cast iron blocks and/or heads. Not recommended on today's aluminum components or the platinum plugs either.

My Ford mechanic friends slather that long smooth area with anti seize, seems that is the trouble area of the plugs. Not the threads.