Just a note: This video is for 95-up 3.0s. On 93-94s, a distributor is mounted where the cam synchronizer is mounted. On distributor engines, the CS is a integral part of the distributor. The last 10mm bolt you removed is the "distributor hold-down bolt," that's normally used to hold the disty in place.

All these camshaft synchronizer are known to go out between 45K to 90K miles due to poor oil circulation from a design flaw when they converted it over from distributor ignition to distributor free system. The best way to make the camshaft synchronizer last longer is to change oil before it becomes filthy dirty at 5K miles oil changes or when oil becomes dark like dark pancake syrup. The bonus is a longer lasting camshaft synchronizer lasting to 90K miles and an engine that will last up to 300K miles.

Dude that squeaking made me think my bushings were out or something to do with the front end. Guarantee it's coming from that now. Bro you are a fucking life saver. Thanks for the help!

Clearest video I've seen on this procedure. Thanks for sharing!

Solid tips, look forward to trying this out. Don't got too much squeaking on my ranger, but I think it's starting to get there (286,000km.) the starts aren't as strong as they used to be.

Thanks brother. Giving me the confidence to do this!

Bad design on ford’s part. The thing can’t be oiled internally once it’s in. Definitely oil it before going in!

Mine failed this morning on the way into work, haven't had a chance to tear into yet. However, I'm pretty sure my engine is seized up. Thanks for the vid!

Thank-you very much. Learn something everyday. This was very useful.

Thankyou so much I needed this video

Super super super helpful, thanks!!!!!

Thanks man great explanation!!

I changed the head Cylinders on my ranger and i took the black Camshaft Position Sensor off for room. Put everything together and now it has no power and makes a loud click sound every 3 seconds so i left it off till i can figure out the problem. I need help if anyone knows or had experience. I bought 2 different Camshaft Position Sensors, the same one i took off on top in back of engine and the one in the front on bottom to see and hope it works.

My 3.0 v6 syncronizer is not squeaking yet but my engine is running rough and has lost some power. I hear that replacing this part along with the sensor can help with the performance of the engine. When you replaced that part did you noticed any difference in engune performance?

So do you need to have the engine at top dead center, or does it not matter as long as the sync is exactly in the same position?

Let’s say someone didn’t mark it and just popped in a new one, also got the check engine, how would someone correct the position ?

Think I've got this problem beginning to occur. Although mine started as very faint and only apparent about a year ago when you were really stepping on the gas. And I mean barely audible you could kinda hear it if you mashed down the pedal going up an on ramp to try to get up to speed on a short amount of road. Fast forward a year later. Can't hear it at idle but takes much less acceleration to make it chirp and I swear the truck has been getting less mpg by about 5 on average per gallon, performance seems slightly subdued, and the starts while still pretty solid are getting weaker and sometimes longer or seem like it misses for a split second when immediate when it turns over then it's fine except for lesser performance. Anyone with these problems or who have fixed them please let me know if this sounds like the synchronizer. So far alot of signs are pointing to it

mine won't fucking go back in

Thank you that helped me a lot

what brand was the replacement part? Did it last long or did you have to replace it again down the road? Thank you for the video. Will try and knock this out soon on my wife's Ranger

Nothing out of the blue has happened on my ranger, lot of stuff was fixed but not sure if the camshaft is fixed cause I took it to an auto shop. My gas pedal is loose so gotta adjust the throttle cable to get the power. That’s basically it lol

How about when units are ok but the synchronizer in wrong position ?

Will this work on a 1997 3.0 liter ranger splash edition ?

Any different for a 2.3L? 2008

Hey, does the outer section of the synchronizer go in only 1 way? I mean do I need to only remember the location of the tooth on the inside that spins?

does this work on the 3.8 mustang too?

You said it made a squeaking noise. At idle or at certain speed?

Do anyone knows where can l get the o rings for the camshaf sincronizer

What size engine were you working on in this video

Is this just for the automatic trans? Mine is a manual 2003 Ranger 3.0L

The death chirp

Thank you!

Anyone seen this for the 4.0 explorer I can't find a video anywhere and I being told I have to take off the intake on the 4.0 and dont want to do that is not necessary. Help..

Is this the same for 1993 3.0 ohv?

Did you need a angled screw drive (or right angled) to remove the shaft?

Does cylinder 1 need to be at top dead center?

So you can do this without the top dead center thing as long as you mark the tab and put the new cam synchro in the same spot?

What's the purpose of the synchronizer?