Greetings from New Mexico! You just saved me a ton of headaches

Appreciate the explanation of the different burner types. Mine furnace came with the straight tube type you mentioned, but with an adjustable air control (wing nut welded to a large washer). What I found with my non-optimal burner is that it requires a minimum amount of gas pressure to work, and the lower the pressure the less air I should let in the back. Too much and it becomes unstable, then goes out. It's pulling the air in from the back from the gas pressure. Not enough pressure and it can't pull air in. Too much of an opening and it pulls too much air in. Too much pressure, or not enough of an opening and it burns fuel rich. The other thing I'll note is that nozzle can get turned, if it's not straight then those don't work!

Finally, a no bullshit answer to the question I had about setting the A/F mixture. Greatly appreciated and subbed.

Thanks for this man, very helpful, just got two new burners and due to home made ones not getting hot enough! 200 buck Aussie for nothing. Now I finally know I need to work out to add air!

I was going to use a hair dryer but you verified it for me. Thank you.

Great explanation, I build my own forge and have struggled with the burner. After Watching this I when duh I don't have enough air.

Def helped. I just got a cheap lil single burner propane forge from amazon and could hear my flame sputter and occasional cool spots when it did. I’m gonna test it tomorrow. Ty

This is just what I was looking for. Thanks man

Thank you for this explanation of just how everything works

Excellent!!

great info on burners.

Thank you!

Incredibly helpful

Man you just answered every question I had been wracking my noodler with. Thanks

Dude you are a trip. I’m totally diggin the content here. Informative for sure. Keep up the good work my friend

hi dude . tnx . it was totally helpful . wish u the best

Going to attempt forge weld this weekend. Thanks for the explanation.. hope I get my forge hot enough. So many questions..

Thank you sir for video!!!!!

something is better than nothing. keep uploading bro.

Great video

AWESOME REGARDLESS BEARDS LEGIT! Also very informative thanks bro

exactly my problem thank my dude

I love your enthusiasm! I live in the shadow of the rocky mountains of Utah, so I assume this applies to me 😅 I'll probably come back here for more information.

I also liked the phone videos. Don't worry a lot about that things. You going on it.

That was really interesting, could you do a video with the frosty burner and the hair dryer on it how it goes, how hot it gets that would be awesome mate, good info here.

hey, there! Really like the content, had to go back and watch a bunch of the older stuff. Any chance we could have a "forge tour" as a follow up to this? Specifically curious about the material used to make the forge itself, and how you went about building it. Cheers!

Thanks! I am in CO and cannot get a good hot burn.

Hey Great Video!! After You said it, that the Altitude makes a Difference it was clear - Yes of Course!! Maybe You know why the Burners are on top and not on the Bottomside of the Forge?

The orifice for the fuel also matters for the burner. If it isn't working right change the size or file it back. The standard .30 mig tip might have to be filed back by about 1/2 for high elevation.

You are awesome the only question I have is being at sea level since I'm fro the gulf coast of Texas should the way you have your forge set up work for me

I noticed at the 7 minute mark you were showing you set up for the hair dryer on one end I noticed a barbed fitting with clear tubing attached, is that for gas supply? I thought you needed to use a more permanent connection like flare thread or solder connection.

Would 4 ribbon burners be to much for a diy 120 gallon propane foundry trying to reach over 3000 f

Dude!Awesome! What jet orifice are you running?because some guys say they running at 1psi or lower but orifice size is like the hole in the middle of a doughnut???? Any ideas? Cheers

Great video. I just got my 1st forge and I am trying to figure it out. Is there a good starting point for the gap at the top and psi on the gauge. I’ve tried 5-8 psi and about a 10 mm gap. But it’s blasting out the sides. 🤔oh btw it’s a single burner thanks

At 5000 ' elevation I have had no luck..... glad I found you but between throwing in discussions when prompting possibilities and bad chalk on smudged tables I simply could not get what you were saying about added air in the mix. You kept saying " before it " ... before what ? I rewound a few times but the thought is constantly being lost in other rabbits being chased. Hey... get a white board... and a nice dark marker.... forget every other subject but the one you,re on and make it clear... clear enough for dummies like myself. Thanks

Hi, I started my forge today and noticed my burner was actually glowing red outside the forge, I have never had this before, what could cause that. I have just re-lined my forge and had the refractory too high for the burner to sit down, took some out, the end of the burner is at least 25mm or more up from the insulation in the forge. I'm thinking there might be a gap around the flare and the insulation allowing heat to come up around the flare and the insulation. What do you think please? Len

What regulator would you suggest? That's my main problem right now.

Once again nobody can explain this stuff better than @The Coal Dragon Forge great explanation! Do you have an email I can Reach you at?

This is good info, but it's missing a critical piece -- AIR control. Being able to increase / decrease the amount of air flowing into the 'venturi' is key -- maybe less so where Coal Dragon man is, up in them hills (high elevations.) I guess you want way more(?) air than fuel up that high...? Dunno -- I'm on the down-low at 200'. That said, control over your air/fuel mix is key for getting your flame right, which is why some of the commercially-available versions like his with the holes in the tube have a collar you can adjust over the holes up and down to allow more/less air in. A low-oxygen heat for forge welding is also possible by reducing the air in the mix. Ttoo much Oxygen will burn up your stock and introduce too much (carbon?) into the steel when welding, I believe. Others could probably explain that better, but as I understand it, you want a more fuel-rich 'carborizing' flame for forge welding, so you don't F-up the chemistry of the steel, so reducing air is helpful. This is apparently why you see some smiths running a big orange flame out their gas forges when doing forge welding heats. Not sure how this works at altitude(?) If someone knows a GOOD vid on this, let us know. That said, search Ublooob for "Forge / Furnace Venturi Gas Burner" from Black Beard Projects for a truly genius, yet simple burner design. I am in no way affiliated with that channel -- just a great burner design that solves all the problems neatly. He uses a hollow (drilled-out) threaded rod in the center of a bell reducer on the air-intake side so you can vertically adjust both the mig tip (fuel input height) and the air (with a round baffle you can close down) to get the ideal mix for your situation. You can travel with this burner to higher elevations and just adjust it and it'll work. Also -- you don't have to make the burner body tube anywhere near as long as he does -- pretty sure 8" is fine.

Those speakers!

Do you have any blueprints or specific information (like measurements) for the high elevation burner design you're showing here?

My ribbon forge just built is not gettin hot. Doesnt even get hot to turn metal red...4 plbs gas psi n air t thats no even alot ....trouble is i turn more air it blows out... 4×12 manifold with 5/16 holes n 2 inch pipe t feed it....what dod i do wrong..thank you ...have lots of good videos

I can't seem to get the flame to come out the end. It's always burning in the tube.

I am having an issue where my forge burners are shooting out I burned propane vapor. The vapor is building up on the forge floor and destroying the fire brick at a rapid rate and it becomes very sticky very fast. I can’t figure out for the life of me why it is suddenly doing this and I replaced the burners and it is still doing this. Any ideas on why this is happening?

I think I put my burners on my devil's forge on backwards, the intake is near the back door and not the front like the demo video, I was wondering what was going on there, it wouldn't light all the burners ever, it's a three burner forge, I thought it should be an easy fix

Can you help me? Can I send you a short video and you tell me what is wrong with my foundry?

You need more paper towels!

What about 390 feet above sea level

Here is a link that explains why adding more air will increase temperature: www.engineeringtoolbox.com/boiler-combustion-efficiency-d_271.html You’ll get the hottest temps when you have ~15% more air than you need, but for blacksmiths that’s problem because your forge environment will be oxidizing. For the Frosty burner, you are supposed to move the mig tip backwards (increase the gap between the mig tip end and the mixing tube) to tune it. The further back you move it, the more air it will induct. No idea if, at your elevation, you can get it back far enough to work but that’s the theory. FWIW “Naturally Aspirated” is a better term than venturi. These aren’t venturis, even though people, call them that. They are “injectors” - what happens is the high speed speed jet of propane tries to shoot through the air, and some of that air gets pulled along (“entrained”) with the gas. When you move the mig tip back, or put air ports in front of it, you're increasing the length of the propane stream that is exposed to air, allowing it to entrain more.

My flame won't go to the end

Thank you!