I agree, I bought the same lathe with a bed extension, after not knowing what to get and it's turned out to be one of the best tools in my shop. Worth every penny. I use it mainly to make Roorkee chairs after watching some Christopher Schwarz videos.

Clocking in at 80th like on video. Come on and help Cody reach his goal of 5k x2. It is well deserved for a video such as this. We want to keep this channel afloat through these dark YT adpocalyps days.

If I've learned one thing from watching Cody all this time it's that I shouldn't try finding a European equivalent for this, as it will be easily be twice the price. But I'm open to suggestions!

I would need a jet long enough to turn 6' Peavey handles.

burn your makers mark on the end

Great advise... ... I never heard that one, before... Thank you very much... But I do know about heating wood, to change its shape... From that I would asume... That then, the handle should be made a bit "too thick", and then the softened wood will take up all space, and not just "lean in three or four spots or lines"... The wood will in fact swell when getting wet, and if using cold water, that would be counterproductive, because when it dries after fitting, it shrinks, and gets loose... But heated, like you describe, in boiling water, make the wood rubbery, and you can bend it, and hold it, and then it keep that bend, when it cools... So, the hot and wet wood, can be forcefully shrunk, when punching it into the hole, and then again spread out in the hole, to fill all uneven places in the hole, and that shape will be kept, also when it dries... Another way of heating the wood, is to soak it in oil first, and then heat it with a hot air gun, until it gets soft... You could just use hot air, but the oil makes the heat penetrate much faster... That way is used, when you do not want the wood to get wet... Ofcause one has to avoid "burning" the wood... Therefore, using boiling water or steam, is the "safe way", which will ensure the wood is not weakened at all... Natives, all over, just make the wood wet and move it through embers, from the fireplace... And make it wet again, when it seem dry... That way they make a crooked branch into a straight spear... But, I will surely try your method, the next time my tomahawk needs a new handle... :)

Hi Cody, I need to strongly agree with John Smith, your tool rest is way to high. I don't want to be seeing a video of you wrapping Gouging tools around your work and through that window or something worse. Please work Safer!!

Hi Cody. I have to agree with these gentlemen. keep the tool rest below the centre line and the point of the tool above centre line by lowering the handle. the area between your navel and hips is a good rough area to aim for depending on the height of your lathe and length of the handle. centre line of lathe should also be at about elbow height. a good book to try and get a hold of when get a good starting point is: woodturning - a foundation course by keith rowley. otherwise welcome to the club... woodturning is very addictive 😉

john smith I learned that the hard way in elementary school. I wish kids still had that opportunity these days.

Was a high school class for me. In the Sophomore year, you could either take shop or home economics. Usually the boys took shop and the girls Home Eck, but not always some of the farm girls took shop because they were already familiar with power tools for farming and building stuff for ranching.

Drake Docson Liam Hoffman makes some beautiful axes!

That is some fantastic whiskey! Do not forget your Makers Mark Indeed!

Bourbon is not whisky. Shame on you

Derp bourbon absolutely is whiskey. Shame on you

referring to his use of only the saw in this video? I suppose he did only use one but I am also counting the Japanese hand made driver he has. I believe he owns a number of other tools from Japan as well.

Actually pretty cool you suggested him. I have watched a large number of his videos since he uses tools and techniques from Japan. Thanks for the suggestion non the less. (You know your name does not befit your online personality.)

THIS ^^^^

Hey Rod... Just a note... The two oils give a different "typical" look of the surface... Teak oil, can in fact be used on all woods, if you wish that look, and feel, and level of protection... As can Danish Oil, and it also works great on steel to prevent rust... But the teak oil do NOT add colour, so it does retain the natural colour of the wood... While the Danish Oil, made with real Tung Oil, adds a "golden" colour...