Forging Simple Chip Carving Tools | One Day Build

  Рет қаралды 3,566

Byham Knives

Byham Knives

3 жыл бұрын

In this video, I forge a pair of chip carving and Kolrosing tools, designed for carving intricate details in wood. The steel was a 6mm bar of O1 tool steel which has great edge retention and is very forgiving in heat treat. The handle woods are peices of London Plane which has a very unique and interesting grain. Ive never forged such small tools before so this was a fun DIY challenge and im very pleased with the outcome.
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Check out my website where my knives are for sale - shop.byham.co.uk/
Check out my Instagram - / byhamknives

Пікірлер: 4
@GHexagon7209
@GHexagon7209 3 жыл бұрын
bout time you got yourself a propper anvil IMO
@dy-sh7ig
@dy-sh7ig 3 жыл бұрын
bro.. next time making hidden knife from old file.. keep healthy and stay creative..
@billstanley5317
@billstanley5317 Жыл бұрын
Are you still selling these - sent a message requesting info on your website, but no response. Look just what I need.
@alaskanfrogman
@alaskanfrogman 6 ай бұрын
I watched a couple of your videos, but only part way through each one. Your setup really could stand quite a lot of improvement. You have your gas forge setup outside and your homemade anvil inside. You are taking no less than half a dozen to a dozen footsteps from your forge to your anvil one way. Your work piece is being exposed to outside air for way too long. As a result your work piece is cooling down below a forging temperature, which is a bright yellow orange to yellow heat. Your homemade anvil is too big for the tiny tools you're making. Although it's good and flat, you don't have a proper way to lay the piece flat for working and reworking. That piece of plate steel was cut with a cutting torch. It shouldn't be too much of a stretch to have it cut again to a narrower profile width. The sides could be ground and the cutting marks removed to give you a good flat surface. Also (and not to put too fine a point on this) your homemade anvil wanders way too much. The result is you don't have as much control over your work-piece as you could have if you had a solidly fixed anvil surface. Your hammer is good. It seems to be a good size 2.5 pound ball peen hammer. But you need a sharp true edge that is slightly rounded on one edge. You also need a good pritchel hole to go with your square hardy hole. I would recommend drilling 4 anchoring holes to the corners of your anvil, but leave the center untouched. Anchoring the anvil plate down at 4 corners will offer good stability and will not allow the anvil to move or wander during use. The wobbly and wandering anvil is also a safety hazard. Do you have any idea how much that amount of steel can do to a foot if it falls on it? How much damage it can do falling down your leg, possibly hitting your kneecap on its way to the floor? Safety first, foremost and always sir. You have a decent enough propane forge. Close off both ends with fire brick, or weld a hinged door on one end with an open vent that's about 2"x2" square. You'll get better heating and heat control. Your steel will heat to a forging or even a welding temperature much faster if one end is closed but vented. The front end can still be closed off with firebrick for heat retention. your forge could further be improved by raising the inner floor deck by about an inch. Move and raise the floor closer to the burner. It will burn more efficiently and use less gas because your steel will heat up faster. you have a good shop, but it needs a lot of tweaking and improvement... move your anvil closer to your fire source so that you take the fewest steps possible. You'll lose less heat and will be able to forge your projects much easier and quicker. Thanks for sharing and good luck!
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