This video was edited beautifully and explained everything perfectly

My top things, Rust: Hatch, Trunk floor, Cowl drain, Door posts, Shock towers, Floors, Torque boxes if ripped will ripple the floors fyi….but you should know that. The toe board seam and seam where cowl/firewall meet will rot. The door post isn’t really rust as much as it’s bad repair/filler. They used lead, Usually they stuff full of bondo and it holds water when cracked. 2. Wrecks, Always check for wrecks, anything hit in the rear Avoid. Fronts not bad as long as they fixed it right. Doors can help. 3. Engine, Make sure the engine is healthy and all driveline is solid. 4. Rear end- A 7.5” rear end car is preferred as it means the car has never been beat on as hard as the 8.8. That’s my experience. 5. Interior. The interior is simple to replace on aero, but like all, extremely expensive to get Back in great shape, especially finding decent seats, gangster lean doesn’t bother me as it can be fixed by welding the seat frame. 6. Wiring. Any form of corrosion/Wiring hack is a major danger.

My top 5 things: 1 Does 2 It 3 Run 4 And 5 Drive? Hard to find good deals these days, so I can live with a couple things that it may possibly need. Use those things as bargaining tools when buying one. My 90 was a basket case and it's still not much better after almost 10yrs owning it. Should've left it sitting where I found it. Still love the old tank though.

Your right l worked at a ford dealership in the late 80,s and where the rear torsion bars bolted to the body was a regular problem when almost new , the mount would break off from the body

I have a reef blue 5.0 5 speed lx that only has a 5 lug conversion and aluminum drive shaft lowered on ford preformence springs. Motor is stock minus the BBK headers.

#6 in the ghetto seat lean. LMR sells a new seat track for about $200 that fixes this. A bit pricey but you’ll never need to worry again. You will lose your power seat functions.

THANKS ADAM--NO MATTER MY OTHER CATS , I AM A FORD NOTT-MUSTANG FANBOY PAR EXCELLENCE--LOVE OF MY LIFE. VERY NICE INFORMATION ON THE FOX BODY.

86 was the year for SEFI…and it’s not EECIV. That was the computer revision… Just since you’re portraying fact.

Great vid with some sound advice 👌 thx Adam 👍

Strut tower rust is a big issue. To properly have it done, you need to pull the motor. Other things are Pedals; will tell if the car has 60k or 160k. Lots of people roll the gauge. I usually stay away from carb swapped efi cars.(86-93) not saying it’s done poorly, but why would they switch?

A couple years ago I picked up an all original 91 vert for 6k was the wifes car couldnt pass smog so they parked it in the garage baught a newer car and it sat for 12 years all this time all it needed was a cat. I know verts arnt as desirable but the clean all original grandmas car are still out there.

I’m thinking of buying a fox body as a first car but im nervous about these things bc i want to work on cars but i don’t know much and don’t have the resources to weld ect.

86 is actually the first year of the multiport fuel injection not 87! Kinda discredits the video for me when in the first minute facts are wrong already

Sorry, 7.5 rear-end is fully capable unless you're going to run 400+ rwhp. Swap outs mostly done to go 5 lug, which isn't strictly necessary either unless you want a 5 lug wheel. And it's not map sensored, it's calculated speed density. The map sensor just gives barometric input. Other inputs are also used. MAF controlled engines still use the same sensor without engine vacuum input. Both MAF and speed density efi systems have their plusses. Oh, and foxes are factory carbbed up to 86 or some 85s in calif. So there ya go.

Running boards?

Rust. Everything else is easy.