I caught some flak for this alright and I think the issue with terminology. Classics rusted at the top of the shock towers where the shocks attached and Foxbodies don’t generally have problems there. They DO have problems with the frame rails below the shock towers, which isn’t usually the actual shock tower but the frame rail itself. So you are absolutely right, you should check that spot and it is not only an omission in my video but is confused by my statements about the top of the shock towers.

@@tecmotiondyno Thank you for the clarification. but you are right on people hiding it, alot of people will "undercoat" the car and hide shoddy repairs or go over the rust to hide it.

I pinned your comment because I think this is an important point that is addressed in a confusing way in my original video.

Bought a foxbody with this exact issue smh

Me too

It’s a really nice example and I just couldn’t pass up an opportunity to film one that is so clean. I am anxious to tear into it though, if the cylinder heads ever get here!

Well, those ‘70’s Trans Am doors were so heavy they sagged before the warranty was up! :)

Thanks for your positive feedback!

Thanks! I’ve been around these cars that long too, so I try to pass a little of that experience down!

You are welcome. I hope they are helping out

Thanks Alex! There are lots of tech videos on the channel too, and I am in the process of editing a series of profile videos of some of the cool and unique cars that come through the shop, so stay tuned for those!

Great feedback. I've done a LOT of these cars over the years for sure. I'm glad you got a nice one. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching.

Glad to help!

Thanks for your comment. You can follow along with this particular 90 Mustang on this channel as I will be doing a series of upgrades to it for a customer over the winter.

Thanks for watching!

Thanks Mike. I shot footage of an inspection on a more typical Foxbody with a lot of question mark parts that came to me for a rescue and I have intended to put that together into a “what a typical used Foxbody looks like” video, but I have never been quite sure how to put it together in a cohesive presentation. It’s great to get a look at a stocker, but most of these cars have been through the wringer and if I can get that footage edited into something cohesive I think it might be instructive too. Thanks for watching!

For sure. In hindsight I should have probably discussed rust more, but when I was making the video I intended to talk about some of the finer points of the cars and assumed that rust was one of the key things that anyone would look for and could see on a used car. I should also have discussed that frame rail below the shock tower issue that guys mention in comments because that IS a key area to look at.

It’s good to look for rust in the torque boxes but that is not a typical problem. The usual issue is that they have been torn up with drag launches, especially if there are good aftermarket lower control arms installed. They also get jacking damage if guys lift the car on them. I have seen them torn right through that place I highlighted, and that gets to be a difficult problem to fix. I tore the right upper control arm mount right off my coupe in a drag race and when that happens your only choice is complete replacement - mine has a wild rides stang box now. The example car is super clean, but when you get under a car that looks stock - like rubber wrap on the distributor stock - and those torque boxes are all torn up, you know it has had a rough life and been redone to look like a clean stocker to an unsuspecting buyer.

@@tecmotiondyno that one particular video was more of and NE USA setting, which typically sees ore salt. These torques boxes don’t seem like they’re built for much more than stock HP and TQ numbers.

@@darcymcintosh1372 It is probably fair to state that Alberta is the least corrosive environment in Canada, so places like Eastern Canada and the NE US which have more problems with rust in general may have some rust issues in the torque boxes. The truth is, if you have a stock powered Foxbody, put good aftermarket control arms on it and no subframes or torque box reinforcements, then launch it repeatedly on sticky tires, you can tear up the torque boxes at the stock power level. If you only look at one thing on a Fox you are buying, this is THE thing to look at.

Thanks for watching, and thanks for your kind feedback!

Thanks for your generous feedback, and thanks for watching!

Thanks for the vote of confidence! It’s the shop that pays the bills, not KZfaq, so it’s always good to win over a new customer when you can.

Thanks! That’s one of my personal cars. There is a profile on the car here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/j7d1rdmoyrKlg5s.html

Thanks!

It’s nice to start with a clean slate

Fox mustangs use a cable clutch unless they have been retrofitted. Factory hydraulic clutches were not introduced in Mustangs until 2005. Also, you are correct about the rust. First gen mustangs rusted at the top of the shock towers in an obvious location. Foxbody mustangs can rust at the frame rail around the base of the shock tower but virtually never at the top. I would normally call that frame rail rust, but I think this is where the confusion arises from what I say in this video.

Thanks for watching!

That’s funny. Most of these cars left the dealership with the tires smokin’ and the first stop was the speed shop, before the gas station!

@@tecmotiondyno this old guy bought it for his wife to go to the beach, play tennis and grocery shopping. She unfortunately started having issues with her back and started having a hard time getting down into the car. The guy had me drive the four hours and then almost had a change of heart. He then asked for another $500 and told me he had other buyers interested. Funny how crispy $100 bills on a trunk of a pony car can change a person’s thinking. I could tell backing the car out of the driveway he was having a difficult time parting with the car.

It made 174 at the wheels on my stingy MD-600, which is right where a stock 5.0 runs on this dyno. It literally has just the 10 minute performance tune - remove air silencer, bump timing, and this was a good final check before I tear into it with a full heads/cam/intake/exhaust/clutch upgrade, which you will be able to watch on this channel over the winter ...

@@tecmotiondyno Looking forward to that and be really interested in the difference that all makes!

@@MongrelsGarage It should be around 55-60% stronger, but every one of these projects is unique and I have already had to change my cylinder head plan once due to supply issues.

I get tagged on that meme all the time!

Bringing these cars back can be a trying experience, but personally I feel like the joy of driving a nice one on the street is worth it!

Nice. Thanks for watching!

I always viewed these cars as a blank canvas. Ford sold you a pretty good car in the first place, then you could build it into literally anything you wanted - drag strip terror, road race champion, drift car, rally car, appearance modded street car, blinged out show car, or anything in between. For years I don't think the Foxbody got the credit it has deserved, but it is THE reason for the fuel injected performance world of today, and that's the reason why they are the single most modified American car ever, more than 5-6-7 Chevy. AND, you're right, the 225 horsepower in a light, comparatively decent handling platform seemed like a pretty good place to start!

@@tecmotiondyno well said.

I like the new ones too, but I sure have a soft spot for Foxes.

@@tecmotiondyno I know the feeling. I grew up with foxes and have had four over the years. If I had the space in the garage I’d keep it for sure.

Ford’s wiring was fine, but most Foxbodies have harness cuts dating back to almost the day they were new, and most of them have had some true hatchet men in their past. I would say that electrical problems are one of the top issues with these cars but if you are lucky enough to have one that hasn’t had a lot of wiring mods over the years, they are generally pretty good. This one has an alarm system, and some old Jacobs ignition box, but not a lot else by the looks of it, so that’s good news at least!

You are welcome, and thanks for your positive feedback.

There’s a profile video of it on this channel a few videos back if you want to see the details.

I've driven Mustangs my whole adult life as my primary vehicle in the summers, and I have enjoyed taking them on long road trips. They can be set up to be a killer on the strip, but they are a very versatile car to actually use as a car. Although I like Corvettes, the Mustang is more practical and can be built up deal with Corvettes fairly easily on the strip, autocross, or road course. My advice is to get yourself one as soon as possible. Life is just too short to be driving a sh!tbox!

The SN95 convertibles had factory bolt in subframe connectors which was better than nothing, but I don't think any of the 79-93 cars had them, though they did have a few extra little things to try to stiffen them up slightly.

True, according to my '91 Vert and the Official Ford Technical Reference and performance handbook. Same setup later used on the R model Cobra and available under FRPP M-5024-A for addition to other models.

I own a 1991 fox body LX 5.0 convertible. It did not come with subframe connectors. I had them installed, welded in place, and it transformed the handling substantially.

Convertibles had flimsy metal pop riveted in. ASC originally did the convertible conversions on these cars

Brown Bros. Ford used to be the performance Ford dealership out there. I don't know who I would send you to in BC for something like that, but maybe send a message to KASL Customs and ask him who he might recommend for that since he is in Kelowna. You can find his channel on KZfaq or look for him on Instagram as well.

Could be. In Canada they all had six digits but where denoted in Kilometers. It’s a little easier to evaluate the true milage on these cars.

Good points. Another thing I didn’t mention is cowl damage from hood peel-offs which are shockingly common due to the prevalence of after-market hoods. If the hood comes up, it makes a real mess of the cowl and usually the leading edge of the roof, and that cowl area is welded in and tough to fix.

Im not nit picking the work on your video, that said also the A-pillar where it meets near the roof, from launching without subframe connectors the drivers side is usually coming apart again just another sign the person is not completely honest or doesn't know that's a sign.

You do have to watch which aftermarket cable you use, since there are some really cheap Chinese ones that stretch fast. Some of those have a metric thread on the adjustment end and a 1/2” SAE hex on the nut too. I used a McLeod cable on my drag car for years and beat the hell out of it with no problems.

@@tecmotiondyno the first one I put on in 1997 and lasted about 15 years. The second I put on wrong

One thing that happens with the AOD cars is the grommet for the TV cable gets brittle and falls out, then the cable ends up disconnected from the throttle. That cable is responsible for increasing shift pressure under higher throttle positions. Typically, if it is disconnected and the car is stepped on, even once, it will roast the overdrive band in the AOD. I hope that isn’t your problem.

All fair comments. The reason the Foxbody is the single most modified American car ever is that there is a huge range of inexpensive commercially available parts that can turn them into whatever you want - Sunday cruiser, drag champion, road race champion, autocross champion, drift champion, and I have even seen them winning rallies. They are like a lump of clay that you can mould into something awesome.

It’s a repaint for sure. Looks pretty good up close, though I noticed a couple dings in the hood when I pulled it off. Never really thought about the painted prop rod, so that’s a good observation!

I have an '85, bought new, with original paint, that has a prop rod painted body color from the factory. Maybe an unpainted rod is sign of replacement due to front end damage.

The T-Tops are a lot more problematic for certain body parts, and the aero cars from 87 up make a better choice if you ask me. 90-93 cars have bigger front fender openings, and if it has a factory engine, the cars built up until 1992 have forged pistons. There are still some good ones out there, but you have to wade through a lot of junk on the way. Don’t be afraid to walk away from a junky one. Good luck!

Thanks! Tecmotion is located in Calgary, Alberta.

I can tell you that looking a value Foxbodies is a heartbreaking exercise and if you end up traveling for a good one you should at least get the seller to send you pictures of these problem areas. The frame rail below the shock tower can be another one that I didn’t mention here but is noted in the comments as that area does attract rust. There were a LOT of these cars made though, so usually you can find some candidates reasonably close to home. Good luck with your search

@@tecmotiondyno thank you for all of this! In the video, the torque box didn’t look too great. You’re saying that’s about what to expect on these?

@inthedugout301 The torque boxes in this example car are pristine and are reinforced with the WMS subframe connectors which include a torque box reinforcement plate. If they look like this, you are in good shape. If they are cracked in the area I showed or folded up, it can be a problem.

It made 174 at the wheels, but this dyno always shows a low number. That's about as strong as a stocker ever gets on it.

These are old cars and most of them have seen a lot of abuse so there is almost always a series of things wrong with them. They are rewarding cars when you get them right though. Good luck with it.

Try DMing me on Instagram @tecmotiondyno or message me through Tecmotion chassis dyno on Facebook, or call the shop voice at 403-250-1820. Thanks for watching!

You could probably do a whole video on places that can rust. The good thing about rust is that it is reasonably easy to detect and is one thing that most used car buyers are already on the lookout for. And you are right, the door bottoms in particular are a bad spot and an oversight in this video.

I always loved those 7up cars! Glad to be of help.

He should use the alternate routing and a different belt. LMR has a reliable page with belt routing and length information. This car ultimately used a smog pump only delete, alternate routing, and I think an 84.5" belt using an otherwise standard pulley set and with AC installed. When they throw the belt it is always alignment, or two parts of the belt running too close together and touching. You can use a straight edge to check the alignment between various pullies - use it in the grooves of the pullies to get a good look at that aspect of it.

@@tecmotiondyno Thanks very much! I will ask him what size belt he is using. He thought it might be play in the power steering pulley shaft or someone told him it could be to much play in the thrust bearing on the crankshaft. Hope its just the belt. Thanks

@@roycenelson5249 if there is enough play in the thrust bearing to throw the serpentine belt, he’s got bigger problems!

I sure enjoy these cars!

I've owned 2 fox bodies....when I was 19 I bought a new 88 GT black with red interior. This was a time when all my friends were building muscle cars from the 60s. Until I heasantly raced one of them and walked a 67 camaro a buddy of mine bragged about. That ended the building of 60s muscle cars and eventually each one of my friends put the scratch together to buy one. Most recently owned a 91 LX with the interior upgrade. White with red. Car wasn't perfect but the body was. No rust no rot...shock towers perfect....just needed to redo the upholstery on the drivers seat only. Had 102k miles on it...exhaust and short throw but otherwise stock. Turned plenty of heads. Perfect driver. In 2016 sold it for 6k. Big big mistake and huge regrets. Prices have gotten away from me ....Thank you for you post...beautiful cars....

If you get a nice one, they are a fun cruiser. On a convertible you need to take a close look at the top though. You can fix them, but it starts to cost real money to replace the top and repair mechanisms. Thanks for watching!

Absolutely. This is one of the first things to check on these cars. And if you put good control arms in, you must put subframe connectors in. The car in this video has the Western Motorsports subframes which feature torque box reinforcement plates and strong round tubes. I went a 1.56 60’ in a coupe with these subframes and no other chassis stiffening and never twisted the car.

That’s a fair comment.

Great find! There are still some good cars and some deals out there, and it sounds like you found one!

I’m sure you are going to have to pull the door panel off to figure out what is going on. Usually you can open the door from the inside, but if not you may have to use a tool to unlock it through the window slot. Auto Club may be able to help you get the door open so you can take the panel off and sort it out.

I don’t know if there where any vinyl options. Most where cloth. All the ones that I have seen that weren’t cloth where leather.

@@tecmotiondyno leather? Sweet. Thanks!

Surging idle is a problem throughout the fuel injected Foxbody era, but it is usually caused by setup problems. There are lots of videos out there which address that issue, but I have been thinking about doing one of my own because lots of them include a bunch of unnecessary or wrong voodoo. Thanks for watching.

I drive a ragtop with black leather and it isn’t too bad, but you never park them with the top down in Alberta because a thunderstorm can come up fast, and the leather stays out of the direct sun for the most part when it is parked with the top up. Thanks for watching!

There are environments where the clear will blister or peel too. It’s a good point though. 90-92 factory cars had clearcoat paint, forged pistons, bigger front fender openings and driver’s side airbags. By 93 they had switched to hupereutectic pistons. The airbag wheels are all non-tilt in the Mustang too, so if you want a tilt airbag wheel in 1990 you have to move up to a Lincoln Mark VII!

Results are here: Modified 1990 Mustang Profile, Walkaround, Dyno, Dyno Results kzfaq.info/get/bejne/b9VlhrZpvr7Rl30.html

I would mostly agree, but both of these are lesser problems on Foxbodies compared to other cars, so you should really look at other things first. 70’s Trans Ams have brutal door sag because the hinge pins and bushings wear out very commonly. If you look at a fox mustang and the doors don’t close right, you should check the hinge pins and bushings to see if that is the problem, but in my experience the usual issue is that the car isn’t straight.

Agree to disagree then, I would say a solid 50% of foxbodys on the east coast have rusty shock towers. And most hard closing doors are do to bad door seals and improper striker alignment. I've closed doors on totaled foxbodies with no problems. The problem is if you tell people if someone says a fox with no rust in the shock towers is a red flag and they are trying to deter you from a different problem that makes no sense and you are doing them and the seller no favors.

Here, they are way more likely to rust along the trunk or hatch lip, around the fender openings, door bottoms and in the quarter panels. By the time they have rust in the shock towers frame rails or cowl, there’s usually nothing left to really work with. 60’s Mustangs did rust in the top of the shock towers where it is obvious. If you are thinking 60’s Mustangs and your attention is all on the shock towers, you may miss some of the first problem areas on a Foxbody. I’m really trying to say that you should look at the first and most common places that they rust as a starting point. Now, Alberta has never used a lot of salt on the roads, and out East like in Quebec and New England they pour that stuff on, so cars from those places are more likely to get big rust underneath, so maybe we have a perspective difference because of that. As for things like the door seals and hinge pins and bushings, these are pretty easy things to see visually and you should check them if the doors are an issue. I have seen lots of drag race damage and bad subframe weld jobs distort these cars and doors that don’t close right are a symptom of that, and that stuff isn’t so easy to fix which is why you should be alert to it.

That’s great! Looking at used Foxbodies can be depressing but there are more pristine ones out there than you think.

I’m with you. I feel like a stock Foxbody is a blank canvas that Ford intended you to paint your own picture on. The one in this video is at Tecmotion for a heads/cam/intake/exhaust work up!

This car got a complete heads/cam/intake build. Lots of video of that project on this channel.

@tecmotiondyno sorry ill have to get caught up!

The one in this video is about as close as I have seen in recent years, and it had a handful of mods - electric fan, alternator upgrade, silencer delete, radio, subframes. There are lots of cars for sale as “stock” though, so I think it helpful to know what you are really looking at.

I have a stock 90 GT. Only mod is Flowmasters because the exhaust was all hacked up. Even has the smog still. Unfortunately it needs paint.

Here is mine. About 99% stock. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iJ2EY6-H3qzcYoE.html

No, it’s a customer car that is getting upgraded this winter. Keep looking though - there are still some nice ones out there.

Alberta is the least corrosive environment in Canada.

You buy North cars also. I just bought a 1983 GT T-top 5.0 with a T5 from Michigan. The lady special ordered it in 82. It's been in storage since 1994. The car is in stunning condition. It's in storage here at my home also.

Yup. I’m from Winnipeg and look for cars from here to BC. If you know where to look and know what you’re looking for, there’s actually a surprising amount of clean cars that have been tucked away for winters that just need a bit of love. With the aftermarket repop market on these cars, it’s relatively cheap to make one look almost new if you start with the right car. Turn key foxes are stupidly priced. Besides, 75% the fun of these cars is working on them and bringing them back to life.

Not typical though. Awesome you found a clean one, but most foxes from that region were driven winters at some point of their life. For these reasons, I generally avoid cars from the Toronto area. Winter driven and they use tons of salt. I’m in Winnipeg where, like alberta and Saskatchewan you can’t really drive these things in the winter as our roads are generally snow/ice covered as our temps never allow the roads to melt, rather pack down into compact ice. We also use mostly sand on our roads and very little salt. Lot of hidden gems hiding in garages in western Canada.

Thanks for watching!

I’m always surprised when I find guys who LOVE the red interior, and the cheese grater taillights for that matter, so I am with you. My 9 second NA coupe has cheese graters because many moons ago when I bought it the previous owner had been trying to turn it into a “GT Coupe”. I never liked them, but getting rid of them didn’t make it quicker so that was always somewhere down the list, and eventually I thought that the final insult to losing competitors on the strip was to make them look at those ugly lights while I was winning the race! 😂

Shopping for a Foxbody can be depressing - so many of them have had a rough life. There are still some nice ones out there like the example car in this video, but with prices going up there are always guys trying to pass off rough ones for good car money.

I bought my 92 feature in 95 and that took 2 years to find a nice original.

That's a mantra that has been echoed in the Foxbody world since the dawn, but as more of these cars are being built as nostalgia cruisers, the usefulness of the ragtops is increasing, and they have the benefit of being more likely to have been garaged, and less likely to have been chopped up. I get what you are saying though.