Glad it was helpful Jennie

I’m so glad it helped Misha

Ha, the small world thing! Sorry i missed you. Hopefully Ill be here for the next visit.

Nice job Ralph Esposito.....Always a feather in the cap when students remember you and your instruction fondly

I’m glad it was helpful. Everyone has their own take on things but after years of repairing things that were brought into our studio that had broken away and “crashed”…. It was apparent that the attachments need to be incorporated into the piece in a more substantial way…also behind the edge I think just looks better. 😊

Thats great Theresa, Hope it worked out

Well damn….yes we are just a couple towns over in Peabody. If you come back please come visit!

Hahahaha That’s how we think of it!!!

Thank you for the comment! We need to hear it all and will definitely try to remedy in the next ones. Stay tuned!!!

I don’t have a video on that but thank you for the suggestion. Used paste flux to solder lead to zinc and 60 40 virgin solder. All that means is solder that has not been reconstituted. We use victory white metal.

Thanks....Unfortunately we sold out long ago...If /when we print up more I will post it here!

Hi bill, The mitre box comes from Ed hoys international. They started retailing to the public a few years ago so you should have no trouble starting an account….if you don’t want to make a minimum $order you can ask your local stained glass shop to purchase for you

Hi Kai, Thanks for your info, I will check it out. Regards, Bill Stone

So the way the zinc intersects, it will require a small piece of zinc with a straight cut to use as your prompt to see the point of intersection. the angled 45 degree cut is ALWAYS angled so that the short part of the angle is going to be the open (glass accepting) side. I hope this helps

@@shardsglassstudio9298thank you very helpful

Im not sure there are any hard and fast rules about sizing zinc. The 1/2" u channel can be reinforced with a 1/8 x 1/4 rebar.....makes for a heavier piece but one with more rigidity. Other than that, id say let aesthetics be your guide. No you dont have to cement the zinc edging but again it lends strength.

Hi Megan, the lead stretcher is maybe what you are referencing? Its called a stanton stretcher put out by glastar. If you can find one.....buy it as glastar is out of business and these are hard to find. The only other thing that you might be referencing is the mitre box to cut exact angles in zinc. Any mitre box will do....this one is again put out by glastar and tough to find

Yes we are in Massachusetts. the brand of paste flux we like is Nokorode. Ed hoys carries it (they are in Illinois) but any paste flux (non-resin) should be ok

The zinc and lead both come from wholesale sources, but i believe any retail supplier would have them. Hope this helps

So we make our own hangers by twisting wire around a small cylinder (metal exacto works great). We then hang in two spots and try to pick an area where the hanger "tail" is being soldered into a seem...We never hang just from the zinc framing. We also advise clients to hang pieces "museum style" (straight up to 2 hooks spaced the same as the hangers on the piece, eliminates bending and pulling on the hangers)

I haven’t tried a small chop saw….let me know how it goes

I got it through Ed hoys international but unfortunately they don’t sell them anymore.

I actually use way more paste flux than is necessary. It’s just a habit, but it does tend to work well, if there’s any oxidation that you need to get through. As far as corrosiveness, it’s probably about the same as a gel. The advantage to the paste is that it stays exactly where you dab it.

@@shardsglassstudio9298 Could you please share a name of your flux? I cannot find it in shops((

@@pipanova The paste flux is called Nokorode....And to kill two birds with one stone and answer another query....Paste flux is the least corrosive and im heavy handed when i apply, but need not be that generous,.

Temperature is a tricky thing as all irons and reostats are calibrated differently. The best thing is to take a sacrificial piece of lead or zinc (whichever you are using) and test. Too hot, the iron may melt through, too cool....it will feel sticky. Just right and the solder will flow nicely and you should be able to put your iron right down on the project with no adverse effects. Good luck!

Oh man, Theres alot to that question. Zinc is more of a pain to use in general...cant be bent without a zinc bender, so only good for straight perimeters, has to be cut with a hack saw, doesnt take patina all that great, but will take a black patina to moderate success. Lead is just as good a stiffening agent (unless you are using 1/2" zinc that allows for a steel rebar), can be cut with lead snips or wire cutters in a pinch, can be formed around curves, circles etc...and is just in general easier to work with. Most of our stuff is architectural so one never sees the outside edge as it is usually in a sash. There are so many other factors that you are welcome to ask specifics but if i tried to hit all the scenarios i would fail miserably. Hope this much is helpful.

@@shardsglassstudio9298 wow, Thankyou that is so helpful I'll just stick to lead its easier, Thankyou again for taking so much time to answer my question I really appreciate it 😊

My pleasure.....Have fun!

Think of flat soldering as making an even playing field before you go in and create that perfect bead. Flux copper foil lines….hold your iron flat (parallel) to your project…add enough solder to change the color of your foil to the silver solder color and fill in any gaps or weirdness. Minimal solder required. Doesn’t have to look pretty, that comes later with the bead. Hope this helps

AND if you haven’t already….take a look at our soldering video

Cleaner look as well

At the beginning of the video we show you what we will be doing and what it will look like when the zinc is cut. We then go into a detailed description of the process and how it is accomplished. The piece that we are framing has a copper foil edge....not lead came or Zinc.......not till the end and the process is completed anyway! i know its long. Give it another look and see if maybe it resonates the second time around! Thanks for the feedback