This brought back memories. My dad was a typesetter and used the saw for cutting lead type. Non other than Thomas Edison said the most important invention in the history of man was the Linotype. It reduced the cost of printed word to the point that everyone could afford books and newspapers. Photo-offset typesetting rendered the Linotype obsolete on the early 80s. Dad still had a saw in his worship for exactly the reason you gave, small precision jobs. Thanks for reminding me of Dad.

Maybe you could put some spacers on the 3 bolts holding the nameplate, so it will kinda float and allow for air circulation to cool the motor.

Franck, you are the LEONARDO DA VINCI of the wood

Frank, if its feasible I'm sure we would all enjoy the video that is you rearranging and discussing the why of your shop!

These saws were used by me to cut lead rules, lead spacers and trim half-tone photographic plates. Type was very rarely if ever cut on these. The only time I cut type on this was when I cut 2 Monotype S characters in half to insert a rule to make a dollar sign. It was extremely dangerous, I remember it well. The font didn’t come with one in England and luckily we only needed one to do the job.😁 the groove in the bed is where the clamp went to secure the stock in place. If you look up funditor saw you will see many examples.

I have one with a sliding table (left-side); cross-cuts only. The fence has a micro-adjust with .1 picas per detent (so, that's what, 1/128 inch?). Ridiculous levels of precision capable with that saw! It was given to me by my Dad who was a printer for over 50 years. He had a machine shop fabricate a 45-degree "jig" that fits the table (likely for woodwork, can't imagine a printing need for 45 degree lead "slugs").

I spent a lot of time as a kid/teenager operating a Hammond metal saw in our printshop.. very similar type of tool tool, made to trim hot lead type slugs, plates, and other letterpress printing things. Insanely accurate.

Hi Frank, I watched the whole series on building your shop. At the time, I thought it was massive. Each time you bring in a new piece of equipment, I realise that no matter how big you built it, there would always be more things to add than there would be room.

Never seen one of these before. Also I loved the little Homer quotes.

13:08 I think thats for dusk collection. If your dustcollection is on the left or on the right side of your trimming saw. The cover is for the hole you dont need.

"Two Clamps and a Shim" - Frank's autobiography proposal to Simon and Schuster.

Homer and his bed comments makes me laugh every time. Great stuff, Frank.

I'm an old letterpressman. That is a lead saw.the original blade had 3 holes for trimmers stick through to clean up the edge of your lead spacing & cast linotype. You need the trimmers to make measurements on the 'miter guage' accurate. The measurements were 12 points to a pica, 6 picas to an inch or 72 points to an inch. Leading came in 1, 2, 6,& 12 point strips. I still use my line guage every day but now I use the metric & imperial measurements on the other side. The hook on the end is very useful. Too bad you didn't get all the accessories that go with the saw. The hole on the right side was a mount for a grinding wheel. Find a blade with a nagative rake angle will help with the ragged cuts. I have that exact saw in my shop. I still use it for lead. The drawer was for lead shavings. My father dold me he had molds for casting little army men, but I have yet to find some. You're the best, Frank!

Frank we have always been kindred spirits: you summed it up perfectly when you said you would spend your time making things more creative than the things you can buy

When you mentioned about rearranging your tablesaws and your Battleship-like jointer you do realize that is going to be a 14 men and a mule team task of Herculean proportions!

I learned typography by hand setting foundry type. It's been decades but if memory serves we used a saw like this for cutting "slug" lead strips that separated lines of type. The cubbies under the saw were for those strips which came in different thicknesses. The blade cover and dust bin was to contain the lead dust.

'It goes up', 'It goes down'. Superb detail.

I would add a dust collect port at that second hole. Cool little saw!

At first I thought it would have looked good re-painted, but by the end of the video the patina is really part of what makes it special!

This and the Hammond Trm-O-Saw (Hammond Glider) were not used to trim paper products, they were used to trim cast type blocks back when type was hand set. The blocks were made primarily of wood or lead. *From a 2nd gen printer with a woodworking habit.

I used this saw myself when I was a kid. My father was a journeyman printer back in the hot-type era. He worked as composing room foreman for the local daily newspaper, but also set up a letterpress shop in our home basement. This saw was used all the time to cut the lead slugs - some spacers, some lines, some from the output of a Linotype machine. This brings back so many memories from my own time in the home letterpress shop - 1950's in Joplin Missouri. Thanks for posting this.

It's great to see that saw cleaned up and restored by you, Frank. It's always good to see tools have a new lease on life.

What a great old piece. If you can't find a spot for it... I know a guy. Cheers.

The homer simposon snippet had me laughing so hard! Thanks Frank!

“Bed goes up” 🤪 Love it every time

You really added too that machine with the draws a service. Top job.

Frank the music at 10:40 had me grinning ear to ear. I love finding a project to justify a tool purchase. Thanks for sharing!

I love the dedication to using the Simpson’s reference over multiple videos lol

Hi Frank, I really appreciate you going through the effort in finding something with good content. Appreciate your efforts in filming.😊

Love HOMER! Bed goes up, bed goes down😂

Given that the holes in the case seem to line up perfectly with the motor and pulley, I am thinking there may have been an optional accessory to run off the motor, and/or a provision to run the machine off of a line shaft.

Well done Frank. Loved the background commentary in the beginning! Very funny.

That is a cool saw!

To reinforce the epoxy of the guard: I would drill and tap some holes in the side of the guard and bolt a second metal plate to it for reinforcement.

Your animations are amazing. Perhaps you could make a video that show how you do them.

When you said that the blade guard was broken in two pieces, I immediately flashed to @mymechanics and thought "I made a new one" and forgot which channel I was watching. If you haven't seen his channel, well worth the visit. I can imagine what he'd do with a restoration of that saw!

15:14 I'd be opening and closing the drawer constantly just for that sound

That looks nice! A cute saw and the drawers make it look useful.

That type of saw was typically used for lead type for printing presses. It may have residual lead dust in the cabinet.

Awesome work Frank! I really enjoyed this video, your take on things, and the way you go about a task is always inspirational! And is always outside the box, well done!! Until next time, take care.

Frank, I love your videos! I've been successful with the type of epoxy repairs like the guard by putting a thin layer of fiberglass fabric on each side. The fiberglass keep the crack from propagating from the surfaces and the epoxy holds it all together. Keep up the amazing content!

This little machine reminds me of those saws used to open the fret slots when building guitars and such :D nice little machine

Homer ... BEYOND hilarious!

That’s a very interested saw, Frank. Thanks for sharing it and going into all the details too. I used to work in an architectural millwork shop that had loads of large saws, but also kept my Shopsmith near my bench and found that I used it for all my intricate work, just like I’m sure you’ll find this saw handy for. Very cool stuff. Scott

Hi Frank. We had a similar saw that we cut lead type with. It finished its life cutting plywood for dies. Ours was in pretty bad shape and had no guards or fence. It was sent to the scrap yard a few years ago. It was nice to see one given new life. Merry Christmas!

Loved the Homer Simpson shout-out. 🤣

It makes me happy to see that this was posted about an hour ago and it already has over 5000 views.

C & G became C & G Morrison. I have one of their saws and it’s unique in that you hold work to the back of the fence. Mine is equipped with a neat little ratcheting/cam clamping system to help with that.

Looks like a nice little saw to have in the shop Frank. As far as that blade guard repair, I would use some thin Aluminum and cut it to fit over the outside surface of that repaired seam. Then just epoxy it over the seam. You could even use a few small screws to hold it in place as well. Or if you had access to a welder, just weld the outside of the seam. 👍👍

Nice find Frank.

I love your stop animations. ❤

Love Homers voice!

Beautiful work, Frank! 😃 Really amazing looking little tool! I loved it! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

Who knew they made saws specifically for type? Makes perfect sense but I just never gave it a thought.

You’re very close to having enough tools. 👍🏻

Great video!

The spaces where the drawers are going would have had galley trays of type ready to be cut to the correct width (in ems) for columns of type in newspapers or commercial print shops. The saw was a pretty essential tool in letterpress printing especiall for cutting “slugs” of type from linotype or ludlow hot metal type setting.

You should add a strain relief to the electrical cord where it comes out of the cabinet. A clamp-style electrical box nut should work fine. It might seem unnecessary, but the cord is old, and will appreciate the support.

That saw is adorable!😁

"never took off the back cover" Somehow, there's a tiny cameraman in there already ;)

Those quiet little messages were really starting to freak me out lol thought I was going insane “Bed goes down”

Braze - solder that aluminum gard, do injoy your content thanks for sharing

Frank has a slight saw problem and I'm here for it!

You should put spacers over the bolts for the name plate. That way it would also serve as a vent for the motor.

I was quietly hoping for a soup-to-nuts restoration in the style of _My Mechanics_ but this was good, too. :)

Someone has to say this: dude, you go out of your way to build all of these very creative, robust pieces of furniture that look beautiful and also like they can outlast a nuclear bombardment, and then you move heavy equipment into your workroom via two bendy planks that WILL give way under you at some point and buy you a head x-ray in the process and possibly two steel knees. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE will you build some clever, robust folding ramps of some kind so we don't have to cringe every time we see you move newly acquired equipment into your shop? We want you to remain in as few pieces as you are in currently, okay?

I really do enjoy your content especially "table goes up " in homer simpsons voice. Ive heard you use that for maybe a year or so and i always enjoy that portion too.

that nameplate is gorgeous. it could act as a vent as well with a few standoffs -- combined with the other side, you would get a cross breeze. though something tells me that great big motor won't often struggle on such a small saw

Reality great to watch, including your thought processes. I have some similar approaches

If the epoxy doesn’t hold it can be tig welded.

That's a really neat tool to have. Can you use that other hole in the side of the cabinet for dust collection? Bill

Easy peasey. This is for cutting spacing material and Linotype/Intertype and Ludlow slugs to length. It's designed to measure PIcas and Points. Be forewarned, points are 1/72 inch.

You should have a local shop that could sharpen the blade.

AH!!! At last, Frank. We have something in common. You've reached the limit of table saws you can have in your workshop for reasons of space. Your limit is 3. My limit is 1. (I reached that a long time ago.). Oh and by the way, a minor point, the measurement in typography is Pica, pronounced "PEE-ca" not "PIE - ca."

Nice classic machine!

14:53 You need a rubber gasket around that power cord that will rub against the metal (saw that in a picture of a similar C&G Sawliner).

Would love to see a shop tour update/shop reorganization video

I’ve seen these at a couple of print shops I worked. They were intended for cutting lead type. I always thought it would be neat to have one.

That saw is cute

I have 5 of that same bora mobile base. It will forever be my favorite, though I think it's better when you get all 4 wheels to be castor instead of only 2.

Some rubbing compound and wax will make that old paint shine.

Nice video. It's a great find and beautiful cabinet. However, if the repair fails, the guard could fall on the blade. It looks like you could scab on a piece on top of the guard... even if it's glued on, it'll be an improvement over the butt joint. JB Weld is fine but I'd consider Black Max.

Perhaps turn that dust drawer into a dust collection port.

I have a Hammond Trim-O-Saw and love it.

If the blade guard comes undone, take it to your local welding shop and have them braze it together.

Nice addition to your tool collection. Space seems to always be an issue….

Very nice.

I found that using some nylon of teflon runners on the bottom of the slides makes operation much easier. A plastic cutting board is a cheap source for this.

i bet if you put a link belt on that it would sound way smoother, it made a huge difrence on my old delta.

"it's really nice to make squares", a tablesaw is called "squadratrice" in Italian. It literally means "square-makers"

Frank might have more drawers than anyone in the world

Dear Frank, if you go down a ramp with a rolling object, the object always gets down first. If something goes wrong, all you have to do is to let go. Stay save :)

I have a Hammond trim-o-saw (a sliding top typography saw) that I use when I need VERY precise cuts (intarsia, unusual joinery, etc.). Built in the 50's, it's solid cast iron (I had to use and engine hoist to get it up onto a mobile base). Forrest will make you a custom blade out of a woodworker II, but they come dear. Best advice I can give is CLEAN THE CRAP outta it, and wear a mask! These things were for cutting LEAD and trust me: think lead PAINT was bad?

I think this saw was used for cutting lead printiing type used in the letterpress printers commonly used for newsprint in the days gone by.

Great video has always! Perhaps the extra hole could become a dust collection port?

Frank - Try low temperature aluminum brazing or TIG welding to repair your saw guard.

The saw would cut in point, picas, ens and ems. The saw would cut “type high” (0.918”) square cuts. There would have been accurate mitre gauge. It looks like some guarding has been removed, this gaurding was designed stop cutting off the operators right thumb.

I wonder if you could attach your dust collection system into the hole on the left side. It is the blade side of the motor and dust did collect there. Hmmm 🤔 Just a thought. Very cool video and find. I love videos about rehoming and refurbishing old tools like this. I bet that motor has lots of life left in it.

Bed goes up!

13:41 Might want to make a grommet for that cord going through the metal hole. A few years of vibrations can wear through the plastic of the cord and short the power lines to the case.