Glad it’s so helpful to you and thanks for letting me know 👌😊

Gone are the days of asking a guy in the pub. These videos are great but kids have no wonder or failure anymore. Answers at thumb tips. ✌🏻

Thanks for saying that!

improjects69 you’re welcome!

What a nice comment to read, thank you!

Thanks I'm glad you think so!

I’m glad you thought so!

It is very warm!!

stuart williams I’m glad it was helpful 👍

spudian65 that’s really interesting Ian and I may want to pick your brains further sometime about getting a compressor based system because I think it would be good to have the option of not filling all those tubes with paint for a ball jobs and just grabbing a gravity fed gun or whatever. There’s lots more I want to learn about different spray setups, I have always found it difficult to get my head round, having no past experience of using different systems.

No problem, I’ve got £500 guns that I use on cars but for woodwork you don’t need to spend much. I am getting good results with a £20 lvlp gun, nice quick colour changes too

spudian65 ah LVLP yes my friend Jamie Jackson has been talking about that - yet another confusing variant! So is that a very low powered but easier to control system ?

Freebird Interiors in spraying it doesn’t feel much different to compressor hvlp just uses less air but you would still benefit from a decent sized compressor

thanks!

Silver Fox Peter is a good man, I sometimes ring him for a chat! Did he mention me in a recent video or post?

Freebird Interiors on his podcast 👍👍

Dan Smith absolutely it can! Last week I did these alcoves in two colours perfectly mixed to match a farrow and ball blue and a Dulux grey. instagram.com/p/BubmkybgQK6/?igshid=16p9m5kwo5srt At all costs do NOT use original Farrow and Ball! Last time we made that mistake the paint simply would not dry properly and we couldn’t turn the tall doors on the racks to paint the other side without leaving slight marks from the rack. I blamed unusually high humidity in the air (muggy day last summer) because I thought F&B was meant to be a good paint, but decorators have since told me it is not good paint at all!!

colin Jennings mk2 leon sounds like you really know what you’re doing. Sadly I have no experience with the professional 2k etc products, sticking with water based largely due to our rudimentary extraction booth blowing into a residential neighbour’s garden! Have you ever tried waterbased? I understand that it does require much more flattening back due to grain raising issues but it’s all we’ve ever known!

Hi Paul I thought I’d replied to this comment but it seems I hadn’t! The Sayerlack waterbased products mentioned in this video are used by high end kitchen companies such as Devol, so yes!

More of a ‘name-drop’ Peter! 😁 Movac say everyone else’s waterbased isn’t half as good so they’re not keen to promote it. They WOULD say that of course however it does appear Morrells prefer to stick to promoting what they do best.

Funnily enough, we have just changed from using a chamfering bit to using a 2.5mm roundover bit for most arrises, from Wealden tools! The job currently in the workshop is the last one using the chamfering bit because we agreed halfway through it the tiny roundover looks better when we tried it on a smaller job.

But I do have you to thank for the Wealden tools connection - you may remember you put me onto them a while back when I asked where you got the deep grove cutter for your shaker doors. You were absolutely right they are better allvroubd did router cutters than trend so I haven’t looked back since (well, apart from the occasionally dally with cheap Chinese eBay cutters, but I drew a line under that when the bearing wheels started exploding 😂)

Oops and finally, I originally ordered via my Movac area rep Joe Monterrosso, then once we established we really just needed those 2 paints, we created a standard email template with the correct codes to use for ordering direct to the Coventry depot. Get in touch with Movac through their website and they’ll set you up with the right people local to you I’m sure.

Freebird Interiors Thanks Alastair! I’ll definitely take a closer look at at Movac this week. 👍👍

Hi Andy thanks for the feedback; at one point the buymeacoffee platform has a chat area but they pulled it for some reason, and have suggested using a platform called ‘discord’ but I am not familiar with it, and reluctant to ask members to sign up to yet another platform. A lot of people use Instagram to message me however I accept that we aren’t all users of Instagram! Messaging me via these comments works too! We are still using the Graco Finishpro 395 and I think Brady is mainly using a 310 tip at the moment.

david osullivan personally I just stick with my method, 18mm top and bottom over 18mm wall battens; 56mm lip (theoretically 54mm but you can trim it back from 56mm). I’ve just fitted some with this method at almost exactly the dimensions you have and they are plenty strong enough: instagram.com/p/BubAXlTgORZ/?igshid=ie0504fawt0h

Freebird Interiors . Thanks very much .i really appreciate pros sharing advise and methods .i think you have a fantastic business model and a great system while all the time trying to make improvements

Hi Tim sorry I missed this message, if you find me on Instagram I’d be happy to reply with a more comprehensive voice message. In short yes we used infra red heaters for a while - wall mounted Vama brand from Sunswitch, 2kw I think - and they are helpful but very directional so they only really dry the surfaces not in shadow. Eventually we built a separate drying room (in the new bigger workshop) and had much better results with a simple Thermobile electric blower heater, and a simple bathroom trickle extraction fan at the other end of the room. A controlled warm environment and constant airflow works really well.

Peter Nikitorowicz yes they are brilliant and noticeably speed up drying time - as we head into winter I recommend you get some! We have 2 of these exact ones: www.sunswitch.net/industrial-infrared-heaters-c1/varma-v400-2kw-radiant-infrared-heater-p23

Plus these: www.sunswitch.net/accessories-infrared-lamps-controllers-and-more-c10/heater-controllers-c30/sunswitch-cc1-2-energy-saving-comfort-controller-p42

ShortWorx trade only really I think, you need to set up an account. You can always ask them though. Find numbers on their website.

Jay K it’s amazing how many independent joiners in this line of work all seem to settle on the Leyland eggshell as the product of choice after trying various options. It does the job for hand application, though as discussed here, better options are available!

How do you find the smell of it ??

​@@davidrichards2339 Inoffensive

Hi! Somehow I missed this comment until now, very sorry! No I haven’t tried Fuji products.

@@Alastair_Freebird no problem! Thanks and keep on.

On the whole I remember being happy with it, but the Sayerlack paint we now use is definitely a different class. You could brush or roller that too

Hi, I'm not checking much while away on holiday for 2 weeks but did just see this! Yes oil based is prone to yellowing. I'd say take your decorator's advice if he is applying it!! They will likely have more experience than me in the range of brush applied waterbased decorator's paints (unless they are a stanch traditionalist who prefers oil!) However if you really want my opnion, and if you're looking for gloss, some waterbased ones are quite poor; the only one I've used that I was very impressed with was the Johnstones aqua system gloss - good opacity, gloss level, and durability. I'd say go with the higher-end Johnstone's range in general, if you're looking for easily available decorator's paints. But I'm no expert, it's just a brand I tried, worked for me, and I stuck with it for a while! A step up from that would be the Movac paints described in this video, or other industrial spray paint brands like Tikkurilla, but they are not so easy to go out and buy as a consumer.

Yes we do use it and find it to be pretty durable, we don’t typically use the cross linker at all, but if we were doing kitchens I think we would

Hi! It’s the Fibrapan Hidrofugo from Finsa. You can get it from James Lathams and Falcon Panel products.

I mention it and show it briefly at the start of this video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/abl1lpeUtNCbqmg.html

@@Alastair_Freebird Perfect. Thank you very much Alastair.

Yes thin finishes only I think, and slow. So that Qtech is a more professional grade turbine system? I remember looking a little into turbines but then went to air assisted airless, and that is the technology I hear most talked about lately for spray booth work

Chris Allen they should roller ok, we brush them on for touch up in less visible areas but haven’t actually rollered with them

@@Alastair_Freebird OK, thanks.

My recommendation is to ask Ultrimax our paint supplier! Since I haven’t personally used floor paint. Use code FREEBIRD10 on your first order and get 10% off www.ultrimaxstore.com/

Hi! Never seriously tried it but heard it’s very similar. I think there is a small amount of nasty stuff in the catalysts. We actually never use the additives now

Humble10 1 hi I wouldn’t use it on MFC, I think there are other paints out there designed to better stick to Melamine. Glad you like the content, thanks

@@Alastair_Freebird I thought you'd use it on the plinth and side scribes to colour match your doors.

If it’s a painted job we would cut all the cover strips etc ourselves from mdf and paint all to match 👍

sicpac66 I have been very happy with the Movac AT99 waterbased paints however I have never personally used the non water based AC/PU/2 pack professional options so I am no expert. These weren’t an option for us due to extracting into the neighbour’s garden 😆. In all honesty I suspect the traditional chemical laden paints are still the hardest/most durable options. However the Movac water based is a massive step up from the decorators paints in every way. We have never had problems with it EXCEPT just a couple of weeks ago we had a ring stain from a wet cup that seemed to impregnate the painted surface with a brownish stain that couldn’t be removed. On raising this with a Movac I was advised that for maximum performance I should always be using the crosslinker additive which we just never got into the habit of using because the results seemed so good with the paint anyway.

Did you ever try Teknos? We recently had the rep out to do a demo and I was quite impressed

@@Alastair_Freebird I didn't. I went with your rec of sayerlack. Am getting a better finish and much more durable. Am thinning the top coat with water but find it needs 2-3 coats. Have you tried the activator and if so what is like?

sicpac66 do you mean better/more durable than Teknos after direct comparison. We had the rep out, trialed it, it seemed similar at first but it doesn’t have a formal BS or FIRA rating for durability like the Sayerlack stuff does. It also seemed to scratch a little easier but we were comparing freshly dried Teknos paint to fully cured Sayerlack

Interesting! Thanks

No Skills yes. They make anything waterbased dry quicker

@@Alastair_Freebird thanks 👍

jack wardley never tried Crown , interested to hear it’s good. What do you apply it with?

@@Alastair_Freebird I use axus decor blonde wool mini roller and hamilton pure bristle brushes

Matt Irvine aha, well I’ve been considering trying BIN as a primer!! But the sayerlack works pretty well, we do rely on infrared heaters in this weather though. Sandablenin similar time or less. Brady (who actually does all the spraying now) says he prefers to leave about 4 hours between recoats on top coat (maybe less on primer), and both could be less at a push in better weather

BIN is a great primer on MDF for its edge sealing capabilitiesand the fact you get zero fibre raising (or zero noticeable anyway). It dries very quick, but it stinks, its stinks a lot! And at £80 for 5 litres its expensive stuff. I use chinese diesel heaters that are used in campervans, they put out serious amounts of heat with out the expense of electricity being used, and a couple of air movers. Just make sure the area is dust free... I'll see how I get on with the sayerlack stuff, cheers Alistair 👍👍👍

Matt Irvine yes BIN must get expensive! Can you link to the sort of heater you use?

Sure, I use two of these, the exhaust runs through the external wall of the spray/drying area, I power them using a 12v PSU. They heat a space of around 6m x 3m up very quickly! They cost around 3 pound to run them constantly for 24hours... there is a bigger 12kw unit available too 👍👍

FlowerW 5KW Diesel Air Heater 12V Parking Heater with 2 Silencers for TrucksTrailer Boats www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07WCWHQ3N/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_rU2jEb41A774Y

EjitWebDesign I lost faith in Dulux early on after trying their waterbased exterior wood paint on some Exterior woodwork (I used to make gates and hang doors etc). It seemed very poor quality, didn’t apply very wall or flatten off; seemed kind of thin and translucent however many coats you put on, didn’t seem at all hardwearing. I did since then experiment with the silicone diamond range for our interior work but didn’t feel it has any clear advantages over the Leyland/Johnstone’s products we were already using. But now having discovered the Sayerlack paint I consider that to be in a different class than any of those products.

The Johnstone's products are very well rated and more affordable.

To Movac? Direct message me somewhere and I'll send you a mobile number you can use

Yes to Movac. Ok

you don't need to use bin on mdf you can just diluted oil undercoat or acrylic primer undercoat

B-I-N is a lovely product. Although you'll need some meths to clean up.

Yes. You only need that product between the bare board and the top coat

Ah, you’ve got me there…. I do remember not long ago need to find an 8mm collet for a particular purpose and just couldn’t get one for the router in question but I think that was the new dewalr we’ve got. And I think this related to a specific variation of that arris round over bit that has an extra small bearing. The standard bit I’m pretty sure IS a 1/4” shank. I suggest to7 clarify all this with Wealden direct. Sorry I’m a bit hazy on the detail as Brady is doing all of that actual work with the routers these days!

@@Alastair_Freebird Hi Alastair, Thanks for the reply. I've just looked, and you're right they are 1/4", but I've ordered the 8mm variation by mistake! Also, the fitted furniture course has been really helpful to me so far. Definitely some tips in there that have saved me a lot of headaches in the future! Thanks again, Josh

@@joshwibberley9364 hi Josh ok that’s all good. You are the first purchaser of the course to give me direct feedback so far, thanks for that and I’m pleased you’re finding it valuable. (In case any one reads this and wonders what we”re talking about here is the direct link www.buymeacoffee.com/Freebird/e/50990

I’ve heard a lot of bad things about Morrells waterbased. They are great for AC etc but I’d recommend Movac (Sayerlack) or Symphony (Renner paint) for waterbased

@@Alastair_Freebird And would you be comfortable using them inside a customers property if need be? Are you happy using a standard respirator?

We don’t spray in customers’ houses (mainly because it seems such a faff to mask up and sheet out) but sometimes I brush on the Sayerlack paint and there is no smell that I can detect.

What made your switch to waterbased only from polyurethane?

And why did you settle mainly on sayerlack not Milesi or Renner?

Always airless now

jack wardley ok I haven’t tried much little green. What do you apply it with?

@@Alastair_Freebird it's a oil based I only use oil most of the time but this one is as good as the old oil based stuff I normally just use a pure bristle brush.

Yes it’s advisable not to go more than 10%

@@Alastair_Freebird great thanks. Can I please ask what tip you use also? I have thinned paint 10% which has sorted the tails but still get a slight orange peel! I'm using a 310. Also ...did I see you on Alan Carr interior design show 👏

@@lukegadd3209 Hello, I think we wee using a 310 for a while. Honestly, I forget what Brady is using now, he is the sprayer. You could ask him by sending a message on the @freebird_trade instagram account. And yes I do work on the Interior Design Masters show whenever they will let me! I find it a great escape from the pressures of running a business.

Hi Tom what is PGB?

Freebird Interiors hi It’s paint grade board .m f c really but takes paint

tom ah ok; for now it makes more sense for us to use mdf because you can cut and sand smooth the edge with fairly basic sawing equipment without the chipping you get with MFC, and we don’t currently do any edgebanding.

Freebird Interiors yes I can understand that Great Channel by the way and your work looks to be of high standard

Sounds about right Jason! I have a feeling we used to do 1 primer coat and 2 top coats with Leyland, we didn’t really know a ‘proper’ way, that’s just what we did if I remember rightly! Definitely denibbed the primer coat. The acrylic eggshell was harder to denib because of that rubbery softness, it just clogs the sandpaper! I think you are right to prime twice and do one topcoat.

@@Alastair_Freebird thanks Alistair, really appreciate the reply. You are right about denibing the 1st coat of eggshell! I love it how the you tube community comes together. You and Peter are great sources of inspiration! Thanks

Jason Hook you’re welcome!

@@Alastair_Freebird Yes exactly the clogging problem I have.

I don’t know where you would go to learn how to make them. I just buy them!

Decorators Forum

I honestly can't remember ever having an issue with smell in years of using this paint! But we did always prepaint and dry in a airy workshop before fitting in a house so maybe that's the difference

Sirios Star what is the information source that you are basing your concerns about mdf and gases on?

here’s one link of many many articles and studies on MDF and formaldehyde glue. HSE.gov.uk . If it isn’t a direct link then type in Medium Density Fiber board. w I cannot believe that an experienced person as yourself would not be aware of Formaldehyde off gassing or are you just looking for a spat? Aside from that if a latex or acrylic paint does not specify NO VOCs then it WILL off gas . However even the term No VOCs is no guarantee that it is non toxic. The company must specify that it is completely free of any toxic materials and or does not off gas. Seriously , you know this , yes?

Sirios Star no spat here! It’s a subject that interests me so I’m always looking for other people’s take on it. I renew my own research on the matter from time to time and have found it not easy to get entirely to the bottom of. Or at least I mean I have found no evidence that MDF is as bad as some people say. The level of formaldehyde in MDF has, in different sources online, been stated as comparable to other timber, or even on a par with a pear! Yes a piece of fruit. www.google.com/search?q=mdf+formaldehyde+infographic&rlz=1CDGOYI_enGB798GB804&hl=en-GB&prmd=isnv&sxsrf=ACYBGNSW5pG1-oQqqk7DlOYeLG1-l8dG-g:1571415046276&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjF1oKdmablAhV6SxUIHfHsB4cQ_AUoAXoECA8QAQ&biw=414&bih=722&dpr=2#imgrc=dFehGiIqz1w5OM&imgdii=RFTkfk0z9aoZsM

Please post the direct link to the exact issue that is causing you concern. The main possible harm from MDF is exposure to the dust. This is the woodworkers concern, not the end user. Note that good old natural hardwood dust is carcinogenic. The responsible woodworker simply needs to apply appropriate measures to protect himself in what is an inherently dangerous profession.

Regarding the paint we use, it is much lower in VOCs than the non-waterbased alternatives we could use but it does continue to cure and to some extent ‘off gas’ for maybe a couple of weeks after application. Achieving the level of hardness this paint offers requires a certain amount of chemical cleverness. What is your main concern here, is it that the effects may be as yet not fully known and causing harm we are not yet aware of?