Thanks for the tips! That’s very helpful info for others. I’ll take a look through the video to see if I can find the torx sizes and add them to the video description.

@@shedlock2000 Thanks! Cheers from Washington, DC

The east way is east for a reason! Lol! Of course it’s less effective at draining the gunk, which is why I alternate my methods from time to time! The plates can be a bit of a pain without a lift, for sure!

I didn't remove the clips; I bent the liner back just enough to get to the pesky bolts behind them.

Thanks, Milan!

Thanks for letting me know that the video was useful, Mark! Good luck with the change and double check the oil capacity (I’m not sure if it’s different for the D300).

Thanks 👍 I shall do my best! More coming soon!

I think you’re right. I’ve heard good things about them and installed their oil in my LR3. I don’t know enough about the specifications of the oil and whether or not Amsoil meets (or exceeds) the specifications. To be honest, I can’t seem to find JLR’s oil specifications on any US oils (probably because they use a different system). Because I really don’t want to buy an engine if it spits a rod, I just use what JLR spec - that way there’s no issue when they test it!

My local dealer charged me almost $15/L in Long Island, NY

Thanks, Michael! Yeah, the design of the plates has not been well thought out, but JLR don't expect many of these to be taken off road nor dropped to service the vehicle. It's annoying, as it really would not have taken much to think out the design better. I have a pretty hard life, so I need a watch that will hold up to it! I buy something a bit more expensive so that it will withstand the rigours of my life. As an engineer, I just can't bring myself to buy a quartz watch. There is nothing wrong with them, but I like a mechanical movement. I have had a number of nice pieces in my time, this will likely be going soon as I miss the GMT and date functionality of my other watches. The size and aesthetics are perfect for my wrist, though, and the Milanese style bracelet is probably the most comfortable watch band I've ever had.

Hey Cuz! Yeah, that sounds like a drama. Peeling this lot off was a touch excessive, but worth it to have a poke at the underneath - some interesting mods JLR have made on this new model. Taryn was looking at a Scooby last week, but ended up with a Golf.

@@shedlock2000 my forester is on my ig if you wanna see her.

Thanks, Cuz! I have taken a look! You do love your Scoobys!! She looks well, Al! A credit to you!

Hahaha!! Yeah, I had a bit of pre-ignition on a V8 wedged in a 109! Nice to know the defender comes with Land Rover quirks!

Hahah, not the first time I’ve been confused with him! Wish I was as good looking!

Hey Allan! I don’t know that I’d remove the bash plates permanently, as there are (as you observe) a lot of pipes and wires that might get snagged. What I do think is odd, is that JLR didn’t make a more robust single plate with 4 much larger retaining bolts. This would make removal far easier while still providing the same (or more) level of defence. I’ve had many Land Rovers throughout the years - older series models right up to the new defender. However, I think the current generation (despite their added electrical and mechanical complexities) are far better built than the earlier models. The D2 is not without its complexities (ACE, EAS, etc.), and later models have much more solid and dependable design; my last L322 had 700,000km on it - earlier vehicles have been known to make that kind of distance, but they’re very few and far between. Additionally, that L322 wanted for almost nothing; at much shorter life spans on my D2, RRCs, Defenders and so on, I’d replaced various CV joints, suspension components, I was usually on my 3rd or 4th set of coils, many auxiliary engine components had been replaced, I’d have swapped out the gearboxes and likely had to adjust the diffs to eliminate drivetrain slop, I’d have swapped out several electronic modules for water ingress or failure, fought with dodgy wiring, and would likely be in my umpteenth set of brake discs. I think we are more accustomed to familiarity, and the technology increase scares us. However, I do largely believe that the current iteration of vehicles are better designed and more long lived. I don’t know that I’d agree that they’re easier to repair or live with when they do throw an issue. My new defender was very problematic from about 20,000 miles onwards, but my L322 experience has been epic.

Yeah, I think the capacity does help them increase their drain time a bit, but it’s still not right. I worry about the carbon suspension and the issues with the oil ways which have plagued the TD6 and the Lion V8.

No, we’re in Canada - so our oil is sold in litres not quarts; they hold 1 litre or 1.06 quarts. I certainly did check the oil on the level! And I ran the engine to fill the filter as well (and let it stand for 20 minutes before my final measurement). The video was long enough as it was, so I cut that but out! Lol

@@shedlock2000 The first Castrol bottle you show in your video at 27:55 says "1 US Quart (946 mL)" on the label though, which is why I asked. It's in English and French, so definitely Canadian... The oil I get (Liqui Moly Special Tec LR 0W-20, also approved by Land Rover for use in our engines) comes in 5-liter jugs, because it's made in Germany where they use the right units of measure, lol.

@@ubonfante Oh!!? Really? That’s interesting - I don’t have any of those left (went to recycling), but all the other oils I have here (that is, all the other oils from JLR) are in litres. I wonder if that was an odd one or something. I’ll call the stealership and ask. If they’re not full litres, that would certainly account for it!

@@shedlock2000 This is the press release from Liqui Moly (www.liqui-moly.com/en/press/press-releases/detail/news/new-oil-for-jaguar-and-land-rover-4669.html) for Special Tec LR 0W-20.

I keep fiddling with the tube and finally gave up. In the end I got almost 7 liters of used oil out and I keep pushing tube down and it got stuck in the oil dipstick hole. Took me almost 2 hours to be able to pull it out. I decided to just pour the new oil in with what ever that’s left of the old oil. My oil is in the middle of the dipstick and I can see my new oil is getting darker from the remaining oil that was left over. Still wondering how the tube got stuck and luckily I can pull it out.

I’m not entirely sure for the P400, but it’s 24NM for the 5.0AJV8, so I would imagine it’s close to that.

Thanks! Can you explain more what you’d like to know about the engine?

Not unless sawdust is made from sand! It’d explain carbon, possibly, but not silicon.

Yeah, I fully expect the oil to be past its best at 7,500 miles -- especially the first change due to the bedding in of the engine and seals. I am not sure what engine you have, and the fluid amounts are dependent on engine variarient. However, I suspect that, so long as your tube is long enough, you will be able to pull out almost all but the dregs. Check your capacity before dropping the plates; you shouldn't get much more out from the hard way -- the benefit is only in terms of inspecting the plug for metal and the final drips from the pan.

I’m pretty certain that the filter cover is also metric - I just don’t have a metric socket that size I imagine that it would be old wheel nut size (27mm). But that’s a guess! Sometimes you just gotta get a socket that fits and doesn’t slip! Lol

@@shedlock2000 Whew, that's good to know!

Hi Patrick! I sadly didn’t measure the oil out because my drain pan had some stuff in it, and I didn’t notice until it was too late. I should have checked before hand but didn’t - usual story!) It did take all 9 litres (and a touch more) to bring it up to level.

@@shedlock2000Do you feel you get almost/ all of the oil out via the pump method? Cheers

Yes -- pretty much -- and at my service intervals, enough to make the difference. I got 8.8litres out with the evacuation pump method, and there may have been a bit still kicking about, but it wasn't enough to colour the new oil very quickly. It's a far easier method and doing mine every 5000 miles means that whatever is kicking about in there won't do any harm.

I didn't -- it has to be reset by JLR (at least until GAP IID tool can develop support for the L663).

Hi Samantha, If you watch the video, I do show you that the defender is in the raised position, but that on its own is insufficient height to remove all the belly plates required to get at the sump plug. There’s an upcoming video on oil analysis which explains why long drain oils are bad. There are many reasons for it, but in this case it’s because the oil has high silicon and titanium content (silicon is an indicator that dust or sand particles are getting into the oil; titanium comes from wearing bearings or turbine blades). Oil is better than it used to be, but it’s the protector of your engine; when oil degrades, the result is critical. Component failure and massive destruction can occur if the oil is not able to lubricate and protect in the way it should. Additionally, modern engines ‘carbon up’ due to the increased use of exhaust gas recycling (EGR). This carboning-up can cause blockage of oil ways, coating if sensors, damage to seals, and so on. Accordingly, major component failure can result. An indication of carbon suspension is black oil, and mine is black. This (on a preliminary and visual evaluation) can suggest it’s time for an oil change. Indeed, extreme service intervals for oil changes (that is the oil change interval for vehicles used in harsher climates) is much shorter as per manufacturers' guidelines. This includes vehicles used in hot or cold climates (our winters drop to -50°c). This is because water suspension, cold, dust, heat, and associated climate-related phenomenon can damage or contaminate oil. Accordingly, it is wise to change oil more frequently. Depending upon where you live and what kinds of miles you do, you may be fine with a 2 year oil interval - however, I suspect that your oil (were it analysed) would show that this is not the case. Oil is paramount in maintaining engine performance. While you may not notice the damage that is being done by long drain oils, the next owner will likely reap the results of what you sowed and will probably experience things like timing chain wear, excessive bearing wear, reduced oil flow to critical components (resulting in failure), reduced fuel economy, premature sensor failure, increased valve and rocker train wear, and so on. As an example, ZF (who make the gearboxes for Land Rover) indicate that oils should be serviced every 75,000km. Land Rover indicates the transmissions are ‘sealed for life’. As a result, many ZF boxes show signs of premature failure at 125,000-150,000 miles (shudder, flutter, and valve by-pass are common issues on unserviced 6 and 8 speed ZF boxes). These issues only show for the second or third owners, but the damage is usually done by the first owner. Just because JLR say a thing does not mean that thing is good or right. I’ve had engines that have run a million kilometres. I didn’t get that kind of service from them by leaving the oil in for long periods of time. Oil is cheap, engines are not.

Haha! I’ll get right on that! 🤣

@@shedlock2000 😄

It is a bit of an odd set up. It could certainly have been done more sensibly.