Thanks!

Thank you so much!

Thank you for the feed back. When you do your first pour make sure you have some protection and I wish you luck! Thanks again for watching my videos.

Thank you. I still need to make a pair of decent lifting tongs. The lifting tongs that came with my furnace are very sketchy.

Thanks! Yup always trying to learn and grow. Also, speaking of growing your channel is doing great man. Congrats on all your subs!

@@DamonsMetalCasting keep it up! thanks, I'm putting in the work. 🔥🔥

Thank you!

Thank you!

Yeah I hear you about time, it would be great to have alot more of it. Yup, I wanted to show the progression and to also point out I appreciated all the help/support along the way. Thanks again for watching!

That's great I am glad my videos have been an aid to you for metal casting. Make sure you also have a good set of lifting and pouring tongs. Most important of all make sure you have a good set of protection gear. Molten metal will be unforgiving if you have an accident. I wish you best of luck and let me know how it turns out.

Thanks for watching, I appreciate it. If I knew how to make that petrobond sand I would quit my day job and sell petrobond. When I started casting I didn't want to start off trying to figure out a recipe for casting sand so I bought mine off of Amazon. The brand is Teton and it works really well. Thanks again

Thats great mine has been holding up as well but my blade pops of easily do you have the same issue, or ideas to fix that?

Thank you so much!

Thank you!

Thanks for watching and the feedback!

Thank you!

Thank you

Thank you. Yup pretty much, can't skip on attention to each step.

Thank you. I appreciate the feed back.

Thanks man I really appreciate the complement. I think its a matter of just paying attention to details and following it through. If a person starts out with a smooth surface quality on their pattern, uses a high mesh petrobond, and uses an alloy of aluminum meant for casting, there should be some good results. I have seen alot of videos of pop can aluminum, rough surfaces on patterns and homemade casting sand, that just won't give a good product. Thanks for watching!

Thanks

Thanks! Yup the aluminum is an alloy I am not sure of the exact alloy number since I get it from salvaged car parts that have been previously cast. Cast car rims work well, and so do cast engine intake manifolds. This type of aluminum contains silicon to help it become more fluid. Aluminum that was machined like the common 6061 or another type used for soda cans are terrible for casting. Just look for a source that has already been cast and it will probably work well. Good luck and thanks for watching.

@@DamonsMetalCasting Awesome! Thank you

Thank you.

Well I don't see why not there are plenty of resources out there like KZfaq and Facebook groups. I would probably say do the following when you finally get into it: Make sure have enough protective gear to safely work. Make or buy a decent set of lifting and pouring tongs. If you get a furnace with ceramic wool cover it up with an appropriate coating so you don't breath ceramic fibers. Good Luck!

Thank you! I haven't used chemicals or flux for my aluminum melts. I try and use aluminum that has been cast before and is relatively cleaned off. No point in adding aluminum with dirt on it and then trying to remove the dirt or impurities. Also, I have seen people try and use flux with aluminum cans. In my opinion aluminum cans are not an aluminum alloy used for casting and thin aluminum turns to oxide very readily before it melts. In my opinion for the amount of aluminum I have cast, I would recommend using aluminum that is casting grade aluminum alloy. That aluminum will melt at a lower temp because of the silicon content in it and will also flow better then other alloys. I would also say melt chunks not thin sheets or chips that end up making more aluminum oxide then molten aluminum. Then probably not over agitate or over stir it and gently skim the dross off before the pour. When pouring have a nice consistent pour with a pouring basin to help with a smooth introduction into the sand cavity. These things are what I believe work well for my casting.

In this video I used a 190 mesh petrobond sold by Teton Supply Co. The high mesh sand is used for casting very intricate parts or jewelry. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment.

Challenge accepted. I got an idea I could do but I have a few videos inline before I get to that. I definitely appreciate the feed back for what people would like to see. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!

Send me an email. Also I have a video that shows conversion of 2d black and white clip art to 3d

Yup, I made the flask from wood on my table saw. The outer flask dimensions are 9" long, 5" wide and one half of the flask is 1.25" deep. The total depth of both halves together would be 2.5". The inner dimensions are 7.5" long and about 4.25" wide. The ends have thick wood on them so I can screw the sides in and attach a handles. I agree, I like using flasks that are closer to the dimensions of the part I am casting. Thanks for watching my video!

LOL! yeah you got me on that one.

I can tell you with the experience I had so far. One thing not to do for making clean and smooth castings is to make the vents straight above your part unless your part absolutely requires it to fill properly. I have watched another casting channel and a vent was made in the cope at the highest point of the part because that made sense as to where the air would be trapped. Most of my castings haven't had a high point in the cope so I usually just run a channel off to the side and make a vent to the top using a 1/8 inch rod. I wish I could just give you a definitive answer but it really just depends on the shape of the part you are casting.

The orangeish brown sand I use in my videos is petrobond and purchased from a manufacturer. The grey sand I use in my videos is green sand that I have to hydrate with water. I am not sure what the manufacturer puts in their product.

Sure can, the grey sand that I use is called Green Sand because of the water in it. It has a small water content instead of an oil binder mixed in with it. My Petrobond(orange sand) is 180mesh in particle size, the green sand(grey color) is 190mesh also a very fine sand. If your Green sand(grey color) is too moist it will make steam and cause problems with your casting. The finer the sand the more detail you should be able to transfer to your casting. Good luck!

I have not used Delft clay before so I will just throw out some guesses that might help. One issue could be if its been used up and has a lot of burnt binder in it preventing it from being able to stick together. It might need better mixing/mulling. Maybe a bad batch from the manufacturer? I have pounded the heck out of my sand(Petrobond) and made a real hard layer, then the next layer on top doesn't want to combine to the first layer and peels off. I have seen people scratch up the hard layer even with a hair pic so it can combine easier with the next layer added. Sorry I couldn't help more. Its difficult when not hands on with a problem and only throwing out guess. Good luck!

@@DamonsMetalCasting Thanks for the reply. I just bought the clay, so it's never been used. Maybe it is a bad batch. Thank you.

@@scotts4134 You can also look at videos online of people who use deft clay and see if its similar consistency and works the same.

I wish I knew the recipe. I had purchased this sand from a supplier. Its Teton-Bond Petrobond Ultra-FINE (190 Mesh). I do use a small amount of brand new sand for the facing sand. The rest of the sand for packing up the flask is reused from previous castings. I also try and remove as much as possible of the burnt sand from the used sand too. Thanks for watching my videos.

Teton-Bond Petrobond Ultra-FINE (190 Mesh) Casting Sand. Thanks for watching my video.

@@DamonsMetalCasting thanks

I will see what I can do when I run across some. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment.

Thanks for your feed back, I will try and add more light. Honestly, I am probably stuck with using the 3D printer because of my lack of artistic skills. I have Zero skills for carving. I also plan to distribute some of my original 3d print pattern STL files which I can't do if I carve by hand either. The used 3d printers of Facebook market place and craigslist are selling for as low as $100. I do agree 100% that watching the old school pattern making is great but I am just lacking in the skill to be able to do that and time to learn.

That is something entirely different! The title doesn’t read SCULPTING and casting If you’re unable to find a way of making your own objects to place within a mould or just duplicating something, then you’re obviously not very bright 🙃 Who types in CAPS honestly 🥸

It's ridiculous to expect every content creator to work around the restrictions of what the viewers may or may not have. The entitlement of people is mind boggling.

@@chrisgenovese8188 Yup I agree, they should really have the mindset of it being a benefit to have the ability to experience something they can't or don't want to invest in. I will never be able to purchase a sports car like a Ferrari, but I can have an experience of watching and learning about one that somebody shared in their video.

I use talc with a dust mask and only use talc sparingly for the part to be cast in the sand. Baby power which is now corn starch works well enough for me to use as parting powder since I literally have to dust it on all over the drag for the sand casting. I have read that on the internet there is more of a link to cancer exposure with talc that has contaminates of asbestos included in it. This was taken from cancercenter.com "According to the American Cancer Society, some studies have suggested that workers who mine or mill talc may be at increased risk of lung cancer, but other studies show no link. These workers are also likely to be exposed to other minerals and elements that are known to be carcinogenic, such as asbestos and radon, making it more difficult to assess how much of the risk is associated specifically with talc. The ACS states that additional research is needed into whether a connection exists between talcum powder and endometrial cancer for women who are post-menopausal." I strongly suggest that people should do their own research before coming to their own conclusion if Talcum powder is something they should use.