Thanks buddy! Appreciate you taking the time👍

Glen- When we work totally new techniques we often rob Peter to pay Paul, from a mental standpoint. We don't simply want to trade one idea with another, so when I work on new concepts I isolate and drill on them until its automatic muscle memory and will not pull my attention or dexterity from other things. Yes it will take time to get to that point, but it will happen! And, over time, you can layer all kinds of cool techniques for a better overall riding experience. Now start patting your head and rubbing your belly counterclockwise!

Higher center would definitely make a difference in the effect this technique would have; It would be more pronounced for sure. As well, the lighter the bike, the more this would effect the rate of drop in. Keep in mind we are trying to take a big heavy bike and speed it up in order to get it to turn. If you have a light bike, say a supermoto, this would take too long to execute by the time you could simply throw it over. And if you have a bike with extreme lock-to-lock turning radius, you can take advantage of that to get through tight sections. In other words I only use this for certain bikes and situations: Bigger, heavier, bikes tighter environments where I need to go back n forth quickly. 👍

I run my damping on Dynamic, and riding mode Dynamic. I don't have issues with the wallowing. I weigh more than you so it would be worse for me if anything, not sure. If its obviously sloppy and bouncing around, something is wrong and you should have it checked out. I will just add that on the earlier models, when I had the ability to set it for 2-up + luggage, it was so stiff I couldn't get the bike to bite very well, and would push the front everywhere and lose traction on acceleration. I ended up dialing it back so it had some movement. This also improved geometry under braking. But that's me, and assuming your system is operating correctly, the other thing you could do is change the spring rate of both the front and rear shocks. I've swapped out springs before on these models (its a bit of a pain, but if you can do it on a dirt bike, its more or less the same here) to a stiffer rate with great success. This WILL give you what you are looking for but its not free, and keep in mind it ramps up the stiffness across all settings. Call San Jose BMW and ask about stiffer springs, they are a pretty racer-minded organization.

@@PoliceMotorTraining Quinn thanks so much for your time, and input/reply! Very much appreciated! I'm looking forward for more of your riding tips and videos!! btw. The 2022 bike only had about 350 miles when I purchased it from a dealer, several weeks ago. So, I'd expect all works okay. :)

No, a big part of why the front brake works is because of the handlebars being locked over and the braking force pulling the bike over because of that fact. additionally, the front wheel is moving at a higher rate than the rear during tight maneuvers so the brakes affect it to a greater degree.. Think about the angles of the disc brakes during the braking maneuver, and you’ll see that the the front is positioned to pull the bike over toward the ground, while the rear is in line with the M/C. I could probably explain it better, except for the fact that my father was a movie actor, and not a mechanical engineer ha ha.

I will think on this. Thank you!

Jason- YES and YES. I use rear brake to settle the bike into corners when I try to go fast. I DO practice no brakes as it forces good clutch control, throttle, timing, etc. But if I'm pushing the bike I use everything it has to offer. I'll be at Buda here in a few months, heading out with Eddie Chan, should be lots of fun!

I’d like to meet up with you and pick your brain on some things.

@@jasonmoss6860 Absolutely! I'm on Facebook as well, or e-mail quinnredeker@yahoo.com happy to talk bikes, feel free to drop your phone number and we can schedule a call as well.

Most importantly, there are limited scenarios with which to use this regardless of skill level, general street riding being one of them. When I take a casual street ride, nothing is so urgent that I must rush to transition back-and-forth, so I wouldn't use it. Point being this is more so a very specific technique- much like "scrubbing" in motocross- with limited applications than it is an "advanced" skill, as very few skilled/advanced riders would look at this and see the need to be proficient at it in their specific riding environment. But for the few that DO understand the value, and see the need, based on the type of riding they do, this will be a game-changer!

Great video Quin thank you!

We want to be able to use (have adequate reach) it both while on throttle and on brakes. So a comfortable middle position. In other words, be able to twist the throttle while keeping your finger on the brake lever, and be able to use the brakes aggressively without issue or changes to lever position.