What are your thoughts? Have you guys used these in the past and if so did you notice any difference in longevity? I am not looking for increased stopping power more than I am looking for a rotor that doesn't warp so fast. Let me know your experience! -Eric O. PS. Rock Auto #notasponsor so if they end up being rubbish you'll know about it 😅 That is the beauty of no sponsors, I can say what I want 🗽

You need to paint the calipers red to complete the package. Red paint is known to give another 15HP and 10ft shorter stops.

Observation... The caliper pins are in the bracket are under a vaccume, they are stuck into the caliper bracket. I had the same problem on my 2006 Altima... Warped rotors over and over again no mater what brand I used. Even got new brackets and calipers... No change until I came across a vid that seems to have helped , It turns out I was over lubing the pins, now I start with cleaned out bores, Grease the pins run them in and out wiping off a little at a time until they stay where I put them. No trapped air pushing them out or vaccume pulling them in. Went from 2 to 8 months between brake jobs to 5 years since the last one. As for brands I landed with Raybestos element 3 pads and coated rotors. No rust wobbles and work great!

You can tell this man loves his wife and kids. He's more diligent with his own stuff, wants nothing more than for them to have the best. Not that he had the best parts, but he did the best job and did everything asked of him from everyone. Mrs. O is a lucky woman. Eric, you are a hell of a man. We all love you.

I’ve used PowerStop brake caliper/rotor/pads kits on several of my cars. I love them.

What a great video! It’s refreshing to see an ACTUAL mechanic install and review a new (to them) product! And a great sense of humor, as well Consider me a new subscriber! Side note: I installed a similar full four-corner street upgrade kit from Power Stop last year. I reached-out to local law enforcement and asked where I could safely perform my break-in procedure without looking like I was ready for a DUI. They recommended a particular stretch of road, and even sent a police unit to follow me through the entire process! Tax dollars well-spent!

Why do I have the feeling that Eric is going to seriously LOVE the overalls. Lol.. bet this isn’t the last we’ve seen of those!

My wife warps rotors all the time. I finally installed the same exact ones you did. It took 3.5 years about 32K miles before they began to show signs of warpping. I am impressed

That mirror mounted G meter is a must.

Power Stop rotors and Akebono pads, can't go wrong! Love the overalls.

Rockin the Bibs Eric! Most comfortable things you can wear, especially in the summer.

I used this Power Stop set on a project truck that became my daily driver. After 40k pads and rotors are still good and truck stops way better then it did with factory brakes. 👍

It is my pleasure to say hello, I am retired Pharmacist and you and your videos are the best. I will now attempt install of Power Stop pads and rotors, trans drain w/new filter and flush, transfer case and diff... on wife's Rav4. She will be able to stop faster on her 1 mile runs to the grocery store. Thank you for helping and educating many vehicle owners. 😊

I see you followed through and got the overalls! I think sometimes there are cars that just go through brakes. But OTOH, my wife and I typically go > 100,000 miles on the factory brakes. We're both conservative (IE "granny") drivers. We also have never replaced a clutch, the current car has > 206,000 miles on the factory clutch, and in 40 years of car ownership driving cars from new until they rust out, we have replaced ONE drivetrain component, a thermostat in the 206K Fusion. Both children of depression kids, we drive the cars like we need them to last forever. I know people who need new brakes every 15K. Having ridden with them I know why too.

Nice You went full overalls! I used the powerstop kit version, they look the same. No shimmy but mine is heavier 80 series land cruiser.

Family mechanic here. I’ve used them for the last several brake jobs I’ve done. I like them much more than the local parts store brands and will keep using them until a reason comes along that I don’t like them. No complaints at all so far. 🙂

Just wanted to put my 2 cents into the powers top brakes, I have been using the on all 3 of my trucks, so far I have had no issues on any of them, no warping, seizing or any issues. Also I would add that there customer service is amazing, had a brake pad that was chipped die to shipping or whatever and they sent out replacement very quickly. Highly recommend.

Hey Eric, congratulations on 701k subscribers! By far one of the top rated auto repair channels.

Saved me hundreds of dollars by watching your videos over the years. Had the money light on my 2011 Chevy Silverado for lean codes, checked the MAF sensor, low and behold a piece of lint in there. Blew it off the sensor and no more money light. So, thanks Eric for the knowledge you give us.

I installed these exact rotors and pads a year ago on my '13 Fiat 500 Abarth. After a year, no shuddering but even more important, very very minimal brake dust, especially in the front, unlike the OEM soft pads that made a dirty mess of the front rims in short order. Also, that cadmium coating they use on their rotors is holding up nicely after sitting outside in all types of weather. Very happy with the Power Stops.

I put the Power Stop Z36 kit on my 2003 Silverado 2500HD in 2017. 165,000 miles later they still work great. No more warped rotors.

I have power stop drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads on my 07 Ram 1500 pickup. They have been on there 30 thousand miles and are still working great. BTW nice overalls!

I learned my lesson on bedding the pads on a cross drilled and slotted rotor. Put a set on an 06 Mustang GT and the first time I used the brakes it shuddered horribly. Called the company and they walked me through their bedding procedure - 10 hard stops from 60 mph. Brakes felt perfect at that point. Have never had to do this process on any standard rotor in 45 years of brake changes.

Bought them for my truck. I took that break-in procedure and now use it on all brake jobs I do regardless of brand. I am a happy customer.

I'm sure that you told Mrs. O. how careful you were installing the brakes all around and you are so glad that she now has a great breaking system that makes you worry less about her and the kids safety !!!! And you did it out of your LOVE 🥰 for her !!! You want to keep her around FOREVER !!!!! And ask her every so often how the improved braking system is working because you LOVE 😍 and care about her and the kids safety !!! It is the truth !!!! Such a caring husband, cost is no object when it comes to the wife !!!!!! You da man, Eric !!!!!!! 😃

Mr. O and his new overalls! Lol

My brand new 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee had the same problem with the front brakes back in 1999. When the rotors got overheated they warped. After doing several rotor replacements I learned that the problem was slowing down from 70 mph to 10 mph on expressway/highway off ramps. So, I adjusted my driving style on off ramps. One brief push on the brakes to slow from 70 mph to 40 mph, let the rotors cool for a few seconds, and then another push on the brakes to bring the Jeep to a stop. Never warped a rotor after that.

I've used these and have done the break in procedure on a back country road. The Amish kept looking at me funny when slamming my breaks on! These brakes have treated me well.

Rocking the overalls. What brand are they?

Overall Eric is one of the best diagnostic mechanics on YT.

Mr O rocking the overalls. Go on farmer brown.

Eric O! Love your videos. Funny this happened to Mrs.O, because it's exactly what I'm dealing with my own truck. 78,000 miles on the original brakes (I don't like working on my own after everyone else's cars all day lol) So definitely not operator error. Brakes were almost gone, replaced rotors and pads as a pair. First set, Advics rotors and Akebono ProActs. 8k miles later, warpage. Returned those, got a set from O'Smileys on the house rotor and brake pad combo. 6k miles, warpage. Got Bosch quiet cast rotors and Bosch ceramic pads. Warpage after 6k miles. Went back to Advics rotors and instead went with their Advics Pads. (Advics is the OEM for 3rd genToyota Tacomas for both pads and rotors). When I did this last set, I did same as you for the most part. I cleaned the hub till it was spot free. Cleaned the piston to pad surface in the caliper ( double sided lockheed martin 4 piston calipers like the land cruisers) Dialed in the rotors to less than 0.001 runout (had to reposition one rotor to meet the spec) I did it the best anyone could (including removing any lubricant from the wheel studs and nuts and torqueing to spec), and finally broke the 8k mile mark. But now at 12k, I'm getting a little shake in the wheel again. Searched high and low to figure this out, done 100's of brake jobs and never had this happen so of course it's on my own vehicle. Can't say why I'm still going through this. Also tried different bed in procedures and only Advics procedure with their pads has lasted the longest. Eric, if you ever figure it out, I'd love to buy you a beer. Or some popsicles for the freezer lol.

After warped rotors on both my F-350 and my wife’s Acura RDX, I switched to the Power Stop brake rotor and pad package… Night and day difference!!! We haven’t had any problems with the Power Stop’s, and we drive hard! I’ll be upgrading my RAM Promaster 3500 van to the Power Stop Z36 brakes in the near future!

As a former oval track racer and an old guy I've found out that aggressive braking doesn't warp rotors but heat spots them that causes that shimmy. Also as a former ASE tech I was schooled by Wagner brakes in the days and they showed us proof that rotors don't warp.I will say that as far as run out goes I've seen new rotors out of the box that had as much or more run out than the ones we removed!...As far as a KIA I have one with 88 ,000 miles that did what Eric O was dealing with and went through rotors about 35-40,000 miles because of that shimmy..

That sounds like a good break-in procedure for all brands of brakes.

Edit, job done "If I can do it, You can do it" That theory will be tested soon. F150 Z36 kit arriving any day. I've done a few brake jobs in the past and after having watched another zillion KZfaqs, I'm more confident than ever that I can screw it up! Also replacing my Swollen Nuts. Yeah Ford. I wish you could do my 10R80 tranny filter change, The local dealers are so bad, they even screw up the free popcorn in the waiting lounge.

I've been running the Power Stop brakes on my F250 Super Duty 7.3 Diesel in excess of 5 years. In that time I've towed numerous heavy loads as well as this is my daily driver. You'll not be disappointed!!! I also put them on my son's Dodge Ram 2500 Mega Cab. As with my Ford they are GREAT! The stopping capability has been increased without affecting drivability. I realize your video is over a year old and hope you have similar success on Ms.O's vehicle. Keep the videos coming they're always good.

Erik, I see you sporting the awesome very stylish coveralls. Nice.

I like the break in procedure, at least they address what is best for their particular product. The break in procedure is important, it’s as important as replacing worn components. In my experience, it is often the “least part of a brake job”, widely dismissed, and prone to creating near future unwanted noise and feel, etc. Thanks for showing us “the way”!

My 2014 Dodge Grand Caravan warped the OEM rotors (lots of road flooding here in Sout FlaDUH) around 44k miles I have 95k miles now and no warpage. Still have half the pad life left. I put the same drilled slotted rotors ceramic pads used spermatex purple grease. I bought mine from JEGS shipping included and a free baseball cap, I think I paid $440 for all 4 corners. The break in is against everything I ever knew about breaking NEW brakes! You know you did correctly when you smell burning brake material! 😂 I'm sure this will solve the warpage issue. 😎✌🤟

That brake bedding procedure looks like it will be quite cumbersome to do if you live in the city. Cool overalls BTW.

Eric I’m a former ASE Master Technician these days, I only work on my family’s vehicles I’ve used these rotors/pad packages on three vehicles….. each time with excellent results!

I have been through 3 minivans, Toyota and Honda, and the rotors always warped before the pads needed to be replaced. Two weeks ago I was looking at the same set you just installed for my 2017 sienna. They have a complete front and back set for $450. Ouch, I don’t think I have ever spent so much on brake hardware, but will be worth it if I can get the full life out of my pads. It was good to see you trying them because you are having the same issues as me. Can’t wait to hear an update. I always enjoy your content! I did use this brand on my 4Runner and really like them and their stopping power. Only have had them for a year now and they seem to be doing really well.

If i was you parts guy i would absolutely take the parts back. One off situations for good customers should always be in the bag of tricks for parts guys!

You will be very satisfied with these brakes. My 2013 f150 Ecoboost had issues wearing too much on the inside of the rotors, did not like the idea of replacing the rotors at every oil change....We upgraded to the evolution brake kit with calipers at 20k miles, I tow boats and trailers frequently and am somewhat aggressive on the brakes. We are now at 150k miles and still have 75% brake life left with no signs of pulsing or uneven wear. The only challenge was the proper break-in procedure, you do need a lot of road to complete properly! But once properly done: WOW awesome upgrade! I wonder if we can order new vehicles with these? LOL! Keep up the GREAT content!

Freeballing in the summer heat is a whole new kind of comfort! Now if I could only figure out where to get you some Pakistani pajamas and safety sandals.... 😉

No better way to spend a Saturday night, watching SMA, after doing battery change, transmission fluid drain and fill, and some fog lamp wiring with shrink wrap fittings… Learned so much your channel Eric!! Getting my daughter’s car ready for my 1300 mile drive from Toledo to Florida to move her to college next month!!! If you can do it, I can do it!!!

The freakin overalls 😂🤣 I love how we didn't even address them after the last video hahaha

Nice of Mrs O to mount an accelerometer on the mirror so we can check the deceleration level.

Love the bibs 😁 Recently replaced the brakes on my granddaughters 2014 MDX with parts from Rock Auto decent parts and price. She opted out of the high performance parts😊 (Whoever did them last didn't put the spreader springs on the pads.)

Hey Eric, you might want to check out your control arm bushings. I noticed that when you were torquing the lug nuts your wheel had excessive play front to back. Which as you know is an indicator of worn out control arm bushings. Which will also amplify the effect of warped rotors. Also, nice overalls! 👍

Lots of owners of Kia Stingers report the same issue of stutter at 6k miles or earlier. Some have said that the oe pad and rotors don't get rid of the dust appropriately and the dust itself causes the problem. I've read where most owners switch to a slotted rotor, and that took care of the issue. The idea is that the dust can escape more efficiently through the slots. I'm at the 6k on my car and can feel a slight stutter. I'll give these a go when the stutter gets to be too annoying for me (which probably won't be long, I don't like something not performing the way I expect). Great video as always!

Running those rotors with Wagner Thermoquiet pads on our 94 Nissan Altima. So far, so good. Rock Auto is solid.

Eric, I have been a Rockauto customer for over 12 years now and if I can wait a day or two for the part's to come in I order them in as the big part stores are out of their minds on the pricing.

I use the Rockauto a lot and have run the evolution's, they hold up well. I have also returned rotors (different brand) for premature warping under warranty, they always accepted the returns with no questions asked.

Frankly the best way to prevent “warping rotors” (which is actually uneven deposition of friction material) is to tell Mrs. O to shift into neutral or park when stopped. Neutral and the parking brake at red lights works well. Just always try to avoid holding the pads to the rotors while they are hot, as recommended during the break-in procedure. Unfortunately if she is like my wife she won’t even try to change her driving habits and turning rotors is about all you can do. In my wife’s defense, her 2016 Impala has a stupid electric parking brake that is slow as Christmas, so that option went out the window...

I got a set for my Pontiac, the Powerstop front and rear drilled and slotted rotors, their "extreme" carbon/ceramic brakes, and red caliper set. Had them on for a few months now and they've been great, other than the slight quiet "card in bicycle spokes" sound when you hit the brakes as expected from slotted rotors, zero issues.. Can't really tell any difference in casual braking compared to my previous ceramic brakes and smooth rotors, however when you SLAM your brakes or need to stop in a hurry, boy do they bite hard and stop you on a dime. Even when it rains, they perform just as well as if it were dry, although slow speed braking (i.e. stop and go traffic) during rain, they tend to bite when you come to a stop.. the water seems to cause them to bite somewhere sub 2 mph as you will come to a sharp stop and hear an audible brakes biting into the rotor sound. So may want to let Mrs.O know about these quarks (slight card in spoke sound and the brakes biting when wet) so it doesn't catch her off guard and she thinks something is wrong with the brakes, when in reality they are just working as intended or working too good and she has you needlessly inspect them.

I switched to those on my '08 Durango for the same reason well over 5 years ago. I've haven't had an issue with them at all. It was worth it to me. Brakes much better also.

Put them on my 2008 F150 2 years ago they are great. I haul a 28' enclosed with race car, golf cart and tools. They have worked flawlessly. "I did follow the break in"

Eric maybe the run out should be checked after you place new rotor on the bearing hub flange, as I am sure you know run out will causes thickness variation and then brake pulsation. Great respect.

I put a set of these on my 2016 Civic, which I daily in NYC, use for spirited driving, and one autocross. I have had them on for about 2 years and 40k miles. So far, very impressed. No warping and very little dust. Although I did have fade after the autocross day.

Nice brake job and nice overalls ! Blessings 🙏

I put the power stop kit on my 2016 Silverado about 3 months ago. I opted for the none drilled rotors. I got them thru auto zone. So far so good.

I have used the powerstop brakes on a 2010 Odyssey, 2006 accord, and our 2018 Odyssey. Overall, positive experience. However, I did not properly break in the geomet coated (non slotted and drilled) on the 18 oddy, and had significant brake judder within 3-4k miles. Thought I warped the rotors, and ordered a new set of rotors. After reading about the break in and friction material judder, I chose to resurface the rotors to try them again. There is a DIY shop near me, so I learned how to turn rotors and not throw out $100. Spent $30 to use the tool. I reinstalled the first set, ran the recommended break in procedure (slightly different than the one you did, but per their instructions), and all is well so far after 5k miles. We shall see how they do. Generally, we put 20k + miles/year on our family hauler. Side note: we have 92.5k miles on 18 Odyssey, and the suspension is crap. Replaced rear shocks with Monroe, but still feels crappy. Rear seems to sag compared to other vans. No aftermarket parts available. OEM springs on backorder. Any suggestions?

I was a big fan of Zimmerman rotors and PBR pads on my old Volvo 740 turbo wagon that I beat into the ground over 300K miles of hard driving on mountain roads with heavy loads. Since then I've been driving first older Mercedes and now a newer Mercedes and on those I so far pretty much have stuck with factory rotors+pads, but am looking at switching pads because the Mercedes pads leave your front wheels filthy black. In my experience and research, anything drilled or slotted is TOTALLY BOGUS for street use. Our current 2016 Mercedes E350 wagon, the 'luxury' (comfort) version we have comes with solid rotors (they are double disk vented, just not drilled), and the same car in a 'sport' package came with drilled rotors, and nearly everyone smart has swapped their drilled for the non-drilled as they last longer (they are directly interchangable) and are less prone to pulsing and grabbing. drilling only comes into play if you're gonna do 150 MPH track days, on the street it just means less brake surface, more uneven wear.

Love the overalls! I’ve had power stops for a good long time (4 years) and I think they have done great.

You won't be disappointed in the Power Stop products.

Hello folks welcome back to the south main break job channel

I used drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads on my ‘11 Ford Ranger with the same break in procedure you used and after 10,000 or so miles I like them a lot. Very even stopping, something I did not have with the factory brakes

Sweet overalls!!!! Thanks for the vid Eric, hope you and your family have a great 4th!

I use these brakes on my Mustang. Good budget performance over stock. I had the same pulsating from hot spots on my rotor. These fixed the issue, and I haven't had any trouble with them.

I'm a technician myself and a big fan of the channel. I've had power stop calipers, drilled And slotted rotors and ceramic brake pads on my 1999 Buick century for over 3 years. The pads are still 8mm on either side and the rotors are amazing with no warps. And we're talking FRONT DISC ONLY brakes. The rears are drums and haven't been adjusted. And I also drive like a bat out of hell. I will use power stop the next brake change!

I have power stop brakes on 2 of my vehicles and they work great! Prices right and superior stopping power and longevity! Good choice for the misses!

Seeing you do that break-in procedure took me back to the times when I had to carry out decelerometer brake tests on a fleet of limousines, as part of their 10-weekly statutory inspections here in the UK. On one occasion, I pulled up normally, in a 180" stretched Town Car at the side of the straight road I always used, ready to set off for a test after a van, some way behind, had passed. Unfortunately, the van driver had not noticed there was a stationary, white, 8000lb limousine in front of him, and drove straight into the back of it at around 40 miles an hour. No-one was hurt, but it made a mess of his van and about the last foot of the limo.

I have had them on my Suburban for the last 4 years work great, don't warp, and have excellent stopping power. Living in upstate NY, they have been great. I love them. I will be using them again. You just need to ensure that everything is cleaned up and lubed up well to keep them free moving.

I did that break in procedure once on a set of new brakes and never again. Instantly warped the rotors. Next set I put on I drove normal from the start and never had an issue the rest of the time I owned that car.

I had these on my Focus ST and loved them. They lasted a long time and had minimal brake dust.

I use the Powrstop brake kit on my 2013 Cruze and I live in a pretty hilly environment where I use the brakes a moderate amount pretty much everyday and they've held up well. The standard cast iron ones I had on when I bought the car didn't last all that long. They would start to shudder after a couple stopping events. The Z23 kit works well, and I did notice it stops better than factory 👍

I've used both the Z17 pads and Z23 rotor/pad combo kits. I like 'em. They're solid, quality, and your nifty little included instructions there show there's some forethought that maybe just maybe someone that doesn't have a clue might be installing these products. The warping issue is something I see a LOT with "generic" shop rotors. A majority of your house-brand basic rotors are manufactured by Raybestos (or some subsidiary thereof), and they're...Rotors. I've had a lot of warpy wobble problems with 'em. I prefer high-carbon rotors from quality manufacturers; something Rock Auto typically carries for most vehicles. I normally recommend against the Z23 pads for daily drivers, as the pad compound tends to need some heat in it to stop properly, but with a big, fat family-hauler like this, I don't suspect you're going to have any problems. Winter there will be the big reveal. If Mrs. O tells you it feels like the brakes aren't stopping well, or the car is carrying on when she applies the brakes, keep those rotors, give 'em a scotchbrite scuff, and slap a set of Z17 pads on and see if the complaint goes away. ;)

I have used similar pads years ago on a 3/4 ton van. It took a long time for the pads to wear down... so long that the wear indicators rusted off and I started getting the metal to metal sound. It was in the NJ rust belt, lol.

Eric, I've used Powerstop brakes on my Camry's for the past 10 years. I love their products! I find the stopping power to be about 20% better and the wear is about the same; at least 20% longer lasting. The only problem I've had in 10 years (or about 4 brake changes over 3 different cars) is the last set of front brake pads were drilled oversized for the springs and the springs kept coming out. They have a lifetime warranty on manufacture defects so I'm waiting a bit to replace them. Otherwise, they've been great!

Hey Eric, I put these on my 2011 Mazda 2 due to it warping the OE front rotors and other replacements very early on. So far I have put around 8,000 miles on it and they have been great. Smooth stops with no pulsing or pulling and very little pedal pressure required. The kit I received came with new boots and rubber o-rings for the caliper pins as well. Love them so far and really enjoy watching you repair autos. I’m an electronics tech and love the way you breeze through electrical issues on so many different brands and types of vehicles. Keep up the good work, you are much appreciated!

Used to have a 2004 Acura TL manual with 6 piston Brembo’s on its and has the same issue. Warping within a few thousand miles of changing rotors. Finally upgraded to Centrix drilled & slotted and never warped another rotor and drove it like maniac for 200k. How the upgrade solves Mrs. O’s NASCAR drives to baseball practice 😉. Thanks for the many years of great teachings!

Thank you explaining break in procedures and showing it. I have been coming to a stop without realizing it is bad. Oops...darn it.....

I have used them for a few years on my 08 Tundra. I used the Extreme towing and they work very well. I live in Ohio and do a lot of hauling (trailers, boats, etc.)

Nice job I’ve done a lot of brake jobs in my life but that’s a new procedure if it works that’s good enjoyed watching👍

What I love about my colleagues and buddies is that they come on dude it's just a brake job get it done. In my opinion yes it's just a brake job but it's a brake job it's the only thing that stops you man and your family, got to be done right has to be! I would say 98% of the people I work with do not seat in their brakes properly or at all. Keep up the good work bud that's why we watch.

I put these on my moms RAV4, the pad surface was much smaller than the OEM. Mrs O is lucky to have you!

I've had this, multiple disk / pad combo's all suffering brake judder in 4 or 5k. Even good brands like Brembo and Pagid....Brembo went the longest ! I changed calipers, caliper brakets, hardware....checked for runout multiple times, and still suffered judder after a short while. Then I discovered I wasn't suffering with warping of the disks, but uneven wear, I could Diat Test 1 side of a disk and "see" warpage, but the other side of the disk was still. flat and even!....I bit the bullet and changed both front wheel bearings and the problem went away.

I’m running those same brakes on my little two-seater and they’ve been working great since 2015. My wife daily drives it and it’s been to two autocross events so I’d say they’re quality.

I've used Power Stop Evolution rotors and pads before and have always been happy with them. However, I avoid slotted rotors because they always feel rougher than plain or cross-drilled.

I used powerstop brakes on my old subie with great results. My new Honda Passport showed signs of warped rotors right from the factory. Just had the dealer resurface the rotors, but the next time it happens (I’m anticipating fairly soon as most oem rotors aren’t made as good as they used to be), I’m going to replace them with a powerstop kit that is heavier duty.

Eric I had as 2015 Challenger R/T and installed the evolution brakes. You said what I experienced during break in.I noticed the increased stopping improvement and they proved to continue to be a excellent product. The short stopping and brake pedal confidence really showed in stop and go traffic! Hope she likes them!

I've been using the Evolution rotors and pads on all my vehicles for a few years now and have been very happy with them. I also put the drilled and slotted ones on my Honda civic with the big 1.8L 4 cylinder. Mostly because they were a good deal for the kit I got from Rock Auto. I also noticed the new overalls. Looks like the Southern farmer look won out and you gave in to the comfort of overalls.

Thanks, Eric. I have used RockAuto for the past 3 years for parts (almost all for PREVENTIVE MANTENANCE) for my 2003 Toyota / Lexus SUV (which I purchased from a dealer in 2019 with 112K on the clock). Just did the 120K service. Rock Auto "OEM" parts have all worked well for me; e.g. Plugs, Coils, VVT Solenoids, MAF Sensor, hood & deck struts, etc. I also used Rock Auto for some 10 years for my old 1992 Caravan ... happy then, too! I am NOT a mechanic, but as an Electronic / Mechanical Field Engineer (fixing things from huge RADARS with big gears ... to little Radios inside operational and test Aircraft on Military Air Bases ... I am VERY SLOW when fixing things - on purpose. In that past world the game was RELIABILITY ... lucky for me, it also paid well ! A few decades ago, while in the "design lab" waiting for my newly-minted security clearance, I was given a large crate full of "Destroyed" (and delicate and expensive receiver antennae. I spent a few WEEKS speaking with the flight and maintenance crews, then determined the problem was a "random mix" of slow relays. The high power transmitter could "Fire" before the sensitive little receiver antenna was "disconnected". (actually it was a blown diode on the PCB so all were able to be repaired ... to save ~$50K ea for the 30 or so blown units) In THAT case, I designed a delay module (for the transmitter; ~30ms to save the system, but too short for the Flight Crew to notice during Radio / ADF usage ... to compensate for any "Slow" disconnect relays. (aka Solenoids). I was told" "Good thing you are going into the field ... you are too slow to stay here and design new parts for us!" While I do service and fix my own Vehicles, I always need to compensate for ... and just accept my OCD/Anal (aka SLOW) behavior. i.e. I need to study the overall design and implementation (for hours). Then I debug the symptom or wear history ... and a ton of tracing and trouble shooting with meters, etc. .... only then do I fire (mostly only once) the "Parts Canon" :-) As a mechanic in a shop, I would starve to death; I could not even try to "beat the clock". Back to the "Short-Life Rotors", my immediate thought (because of your multiple past changes) and KNOWN GOOD WORK, ERIC ... was ... "Cheap Wheel Bearings" (i.e. "mechanical eddy-currents" "micro-pulsing" the rotors). i.e. High-Frequency Pulsations 90 degrees out of phase with the rotational speeds and (lower frequency) "vibrations" of the larger and heavier parts. (But over time, enough to "EAT at the Rotors". BTW: My hat is off to IJM ! Just before submitting this, I have scrolled down using a google search for "Wheel Bearings" and found: IJM's comment: "... changed both front wheel bearings and the problem went away." hmmm Warm Regards to all, John in the NW

I started using Power Stop brakes about 2 years ago and have installed them on 5 cars. I don't use their drilled and slotted however being that I live in the rust belt I use their Geomet coated rotors and ceramic pads. So far on the cars I've put them on I've had good success with them. No brake noise and low amounts of brake dust that I can tell. Their rust preventative coating seems to work well as the one vehicle I have them on that does more sitting than driving seems to have minimal rust on the rotors. If it does its simply surface rust that'll get burned off first time out again. So for me I like Power Stop and they will continue to be my go to personally when I need to look for brakes for either my car or others. I have had more luck recently buying them for cheaper off of Amazon than Rock Auto however. My personal car is due soon for front brakes being that the rotors are worn and its been 3 years since I've changed them. I think for my car I will be giving Centric's rust coated rotors and posi quiet pads a try and see how they are.

Hi, really enjoy and appreciate your instructive videos! My wife had the same issue with OE brake rotors warping after 6k miles of daily driving the mountains of western North Carolina. She’s a pretty aggressive breaker. Replaced with Power Stop Z23 rotors and pads and, so far after 15k, no sign of warping and good stopping action. I’m satisfied so far. Performed break-in as called for by manufacturer. Thanks again

I've been using Powerstop products for a while now. Had them since I bought my 2000 GMC Yukon Denali, and so far I've been very happy. The brake pads lasted me well over 60K miles. Rotors as well, still on the same pair actually.

I use these pads and rotors on my 05 Suburban and I noticed a huge difference in braking performance. I tow a 14x7 enclosed motorcycle trailer and its a big help on stopping when towing.

I’m using the Powerstop rotors and pads on several cars. I like the coated rotors they have so they don’t rust. I didn’t by the slotted rotors though. Finding a place to break in the pads was a challenge where I live.