Hi Kenny! I'm not a professional mechanic, but I've been wrenching for more than 40 years. I appreciate the content that shows how regular Joe Shmo's can go about doing some of these jobs without the benefit of lifts and a garage full of Snap-On tools. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, and for the honesty and integrity you show your customers!

I been a master automotive technician for 40 plus years I enjoy watching your videos because I might learn something new but back at your shop where you work my body before he died he worked from a company and sold me his demo inductor I love it because I live where they use salt and a torch can't get into tight places thank you for your hard work making videos and have a blessed day today 🙏

At 72 I use rubber garden knee pads , what a difference .

I may be wiered,but I order parts for my 2011 Silverado and keep them in stock! I tend to replace certain things before they break! Brake calipers,hoses,front hub/bearings,pads,rotors,serp belt,idler,tensioner,alternator, u-joints etc! Having them in stock is kinda nice,maybe a thousand bucks worth of the most common wear items.

This is the best video for lighting, clarity, process u've done except for not using a torque wrench, peace of mind comes to the process, great to see this model as i have a 05 coly , be interested to see what u find on the long crank, thank for posting

Always learning from your videos Kenny. Thank you. I’m a driveway ‘mechanic’ and I’ve been tinkering and mending cars for years so, like you, I’ve learnt a few tips, tricks and cheats over the years. Personally I usually remove the calliper first then the carrier bracket. I find it gives me better access to the bigger bracket bolts and I lose less skin off my knuckles. I bet that metal bar you found will be tucked away into you home tool box. It’ll come in useful for other little jobs in the future.

My brother and I dropped a 66 Continental when the floor jack got stuck in a crack while lifting the front. Pulled it right off the already placed jackstands on the diff. Scary experience for a couple of teenagers, but a good lesson. Luckily the car was undamaged.

I had a 17 Wrangler in shop last week. The lady called to ask how much to install front brakes and rotors. SHe already had the parts. Shre comes to drop it off and I drive her back to where she was going and its lifted with 34 inch tires. I didnt hit 40 and I got my 1st death wobble experience. I start looking it over and RF brake hose was twisted. LR brake hose was installed on caliper backwards and when I had it on the lift it was acting as a limiting strap for rear axle. 4 bad ball joints and RF u jioint was bad. Oh and she ordered front and rear powerstop kit. It wasnt just front.

I enjoy learning from your videos, you would of gotten along great with my Father-in- law, he’s passed on now, but was a master at finding random things in his garage to assist in any automotive repair, lol. He also had the 5 gallon bucket system, 8 buckets of assorted tools, but knew where everything was. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with the rest of us.

Up north in the rust belt we use every rust inhibitor we can.

Kenny,it's great to see you do a complete job, start to finish. You should do more of these. You might want to check the direction of the brake hose to the caliper. I think the steel line should be pointed up. not sure but it seems like you replaced the line the same way the old one was installed kinking the hose. I do like watching your videos.

I had a 2006 Colorado. I found the OEM rotors are prone to warp after 20K miles, and because the design, you really can't turn them. The last time I had the brakes done I spent the extra money for some high performance rotors, and didn't have any more problems of the rotors warping. It saves the time and expense of having to change the rotors. A lot of good info on doing a brake job on the 1st generation Colorado/Canyon.

Kenny this was a great video, it was very calming hearing the fan, which was not loud.

Great that you have a tripod now. The thing is you can put the camera back out of the way and zoom in but the audio level is low! 😊😉😉

Excellent presentation and work. Thanks, Kenny for all of your videos. I do get a lot out of them. Greg M.

You brought back a funny moment from the past. My first job, as a high school kid, at a gas station / mechanical shop. The boss’s nephew started working with us in the evenings. He wasn’t the sharpest knife in the drawer, but mostly just not mechanical. He brought a car in to a bay without a lift. He starts jacking up the rear and luckily I stopped him just before he completely caved in the gas tank. Good thing the tank was mostly empty.

Nicely done Mr. Kenny!! Even with hand tools, it went relatively well. Detailed filming was very good and helpful. Finding things around like your metal hitch bar was a gift!! That one is a keeper for sure. Excellent safety tips on the jack and jack stands. Interesting to observe a master at his craft!!! Thanks for sharing your wisdom!! Take care of your knee also!!! The padded mats you have and the rolling stool is a must for many with achy knees!!! Have a great day!!! 🛠

I just did one of these (06 I think) and was floored that this was the way they were put together. Makes about as much sense as the old Honda's.

Nice laborious job, power tools really have us spoiled !

On hot summer day, use plywood under jackstands so automobile does not sink into asphalt from the weight. Been there/ done that before- lesson learned

It amazes me that someone could drive that long and cost themselves even more when they finally fix it!

Good to see I'm not the only 1 who's lost the little pad on the c-clamp screw 😅😅😅.. if you ever question the ease of caliper collapse with your method, most times you can pull 1 of the slider bolts out, and rotate the caliper off of the rotor, then clamp it. Love watching your methods, always learn something. good show sir

Hi Kenny, love your work. Thanks for the great content. I'm curious as to why it was a better option for your friend/customer to replace the calipers rather than simply get a rebuild kit for them and pull out the pistons and seals and clean up the body. I get the ease of using fresh clean parts, wondered at the cost difference, especially for someone who might need to do the job as cheaply as possible. Found an interesting thing a couple of weeks ago when working on my stepson's car - a 2005 Subaru Liberty GT. You might know it as a Lgacy. He said he thought a rear brake pad just "fell out" and I thought that couldn't be possible. Sure enough when I checked, one pad was missing entirely. I wondered how this might happen. I figured the rotors had simply worn too thin, so we got new rotors and pads. Come to replace them, the old rotors are solid, no ventilation. They were for a standard Subaru, NOT the GT version. But the calipers were still original. The new rotors were ventillated, like the ones we see here and over DOUBLE the thickness of the rotors I removed. No wonder the damned pad fell out! Previous owner and the yard he bought it from (teenager buying his first car all on his own... what can you do?) were dodgy as hell. All sorts of interesting fixes on this poor beast. At least he won't run out of brakes any time soon. Keep wrenching and thanks from Perth, Western Australia.

God bless keep up your good work you help a lot of friends😅

Mueller knee brace! I use mine all the time! Its amazing.

A great video as usual. My daughter has my former 2006 GMC Canyon so it was good to see how to do the rotor change out. Unfortunately we are fighting a continuous misfire on number one. It just started to misfire going down the road. Changed the plug, no help. Compression is good, moved coil packs but it didn't follow. Found a video on how to check coil packs with a VOM, doing that Saturday to verify. Hoping it is not an ECM issue. 206K on it, might be the death blow. 3.5 liter 5 cylinder. I know you said you don't care for that engine.

Nice spending garage time with ya, Kenny!

Good morning Mr Kenny y'all have a🎉 wonderful day, that bar you found kinda looks like an anti sway bar for a plow to hook up to the tractor hitch, I could be wrong though

Hey Kenny. Nice info. Wait until you get to do rear rotors on a Ford Transit full size van. That's definitely worthy of a long video 😁

Great video Kenny.All the best..

Good job Kenny

Good job Kenny 👍

working in rust belt id have ordered the bearing and hub at the start, on pressed in bearings on like fords you just buy the whole hub and knuckle as 1 pc

Hey mate good to see you on the tools(albiet at home) One thing I learnt doing work in your driveway & shop is using mechanics gloves I know that you are going to say they are cumbersome but once you get used to them you will never go back as you get older your skin becomes thinner & easily broken & tightening/untightening bolts & screws is so much easier plus an added advantage is you can handle hot bolts that are removed with power tools (I think everyone has been there burnt fingers ) The other thing is I like you don't torque every bolt but where they are in essential places I went to the expense of buying a torque wrench better to be safe than dead.Cheers hope the new job is going well.

I recently did the same service on a 1994 GMC Jimmy 4x4, which was much simpler because it did not have captive rotors. My only issue was I didn't remove the brake line banjo bolt before removing the caliper, which I needed to retain for the new caliper/lines. The bolt diameter was larger than the Colorado, and had a 32lbs torque. I had to put the caliper in vice and use a breaker bar to get it off; lesson learned.

There’s an easier way to get the rotor/ hub out. First leave the bolts on the face. Second, with the truck up on stands, remove the 4 bolts on the inside. Third, take a 14-16” length of 2x4 and place it between the rear of the rotor (away from the dust shield) and the frame. Fourth, start the engine and turn the wheel to the right if working on the right side, or left if working on the left side. The rotor/ hub will be pressed out. It will fall, and it’s heavy, so place some kind of cushioning under the assembly before starting the engine. BTW, the way you were throwing that ABS wire around, I’m betting the you’ll have an ABS code pop up. When I did that to my ‘05 Coly, it broke the wire or sensor, leading me to repeat the hub removal process to replace the stupid thing. As for warping, I experienced warping every time I replaced the brake pads, until I got high performance slotted and drilled rotors. After that no problem. Also, I went through 4 exhaust systems in 80K miles, then I got smart and replaced it with Stainless Steel. No problem when I got rid of the truck in 2018 with 140K miles

I always use German torque goot-an-tight .

I have an ‘05 Colorado 4wd. It’s a real pain to get the hub assembly on the axle and in place without ruining the ABS harness. I feel your pain

Alright…you finally got a tripod. Way to go Kenny this should make your vids easier and better quality. Love your channel I watch and like every one.

Claw hammers are dangers to hit steel on steel because claw hammers are hard and will put your eye out. Never hit steel with a claw hammer period. Thank you for your videos.

makes the toyota yaris/echo/scionXa rear wheel hub I replaced the other day look easy with conventional drum brakes, and a plug for the ABS so no wire hanging off it...

nice job

Just throw it the brake lathe, it'll clean up. Lol!!

Smart!

That would be a rough job in northern Michigan for sure. Pressing the hub out or trying the hub buster tool would be the only way. What a poor design. Thanks for a great video Kenny.

Well that's about a stupid way that GM did brakes. I've not done any of the gen1 Colorado's and after watching this... I don't ever want to do any lol. Good video as always!

Had a couple people killed in the Grand Rapids,MI area from not using jack stands working under the vehicle supported by a floor jack.Jack let go and vehicle collapsed on them

Enjoyed the video 👍👍👍

Mechanic twisted the brake hose front right. I'm on a busy highway, suddenly brakes slamming in front of me, I slam the brakes. My car lept over 1/2 of a lane to the right. Scare the bejezus out of me. Fixed, works fine now.

The worst is when the jack slips while going up and puts a hole in something like the radiator or oil pan🤕

You can get all those brake parts in the junkyard save money

Are on the car brake lathes still a thing?

Mr...Kenny thanks for all your videos...I've got a 95 Chevy c1500 Silverado...I would like to get rid of my drum brakes. What year Chevy truck can I swap axles without too much modification ? Thank you

Hex wrenches and 6 pt. Sockets are stronger in my opinion

I've done one. NEVER AGAIN!

Looks like they just did a pad slap a few times too many, not caring the rotor was worn so deep, and then just drove it till it no longer stopped any more.

I hate when they don't put Zerk fittings on suspension parts especially ball joints! I just had the front of my Ram 2500 Cummins rebuilt the garage used the cheapest parts available all non greasable the ball joints on the passenger side were shot towing my camper from Sturgis to Quartzite not very long! Dodge has bad suspension to begin with. They had to warranty the work because of this . The other side a few months later needs to be replaced already also! All because i couldn't grease them. I noticed this vehicle didn't have zerks either.

Did you name the cat? I suggested Ratchet. Lol

Hope you disconnected the battery before cracking the bleeder.

imperial thread ? is that an Isuzu with a Chevy badge. did the imperial head on that bolt have an imperial thread?

This shows what happens when Gm hirez an ex-Ford enginner!😅

I would love for you to go into detail, explanation when you bleed the brake system.. After doing mine I still have an issue but had to put a pause in the progress. WIA. Can a good result be had with just one person doing the bleed ??

Hi WWK. I just took a road trip thru the eastern KY foothills and driving up long inclines at 55-60MPH i was getting intermittent misfires under load. Rather than a hesitation, these were shudders that felt like Thor hitting the front of the car with a hammer. Maybe preignition rather than a misfire? I rolled the window down and maybe heard popping but the wind noise was intense? I added octane booster to my tank of regular gas for the trip back and it seemed to get 80-90% better. Should i just buy higher test gas or use a CRC de carbon treatment? 1999 buick, 3800 v6. I think the exhaust may be a little plugged due to the sound of the engine and maybe a little reduction in power - could higher exhaust temps be causing preignition. My plan is to measure exhaust pressures with a gauge pre and post CAT-replace cat if needed. Use high test in the mean time. your advice?

This will happen when the hose is on wrong, the oil doesn’t retract and hangs up The pad. Wearing it out quicker.

Why, when every front wheel drive Toyota on the planet uses the bearing and hub assembly, does Lexus feel the need to have press in bearings and hubs?

I have to disagree with Kenny saying to not clean the rotors.and I also disagree with setting the jack stands on the pinch welds it can cause damage

30:56 I had a van in once someone did wheel bearing put backing plate on backwards and just cut out the part that was interfering with the caliper instead of doing it right.

I hated that design when they came out with it on that truck. Other than that, it's a decent vehicle for the low cost.

Almost to many commercials to watch.A little fluid film would keep that running for 20 more years.

The first gen Colorado brake/ wheel bearing setup is horrible to work on. I warn the customer that rotor replacement usually requires wheel bearing replacement as well. Around here they are usually pretty stuck in the knuckle and get damaged on removal.

NEVER NEVER NEVER gonna buy one of these! Omg what a nightmare to do front brakes. I’ll bet the book time is 5 hours for the front alone

Your not going to clean the hub and mount? Come on Kenny

i absolutely hate brakes like that,,,,,done a few colorado/canyons.....my 90 k2500 had captive rotors....and the absolute worst ive seen was certain years of honda accord..

Captive rotors, what a terrible engineering concept!

Leave it to Isuzu to come up with the worst disc brake design ever. I imagine the 4WD version is even worse!

u need to clean thoses rotors off whats wrong with u i think u have a lot to learn from some of your videos i've seen , ASE MASTER TECH.40 years, you'd strave in a flat rate shop your to slow.

What an unnecessarily terrible design on those rotors/hubs. I guess that's what you get when two substandard companies conspire to build a vehicle.

What pos design. No excuse for such bad engineering.

What a load of fooking around just do rotor (there screwed) pads, calipers & hoses especially after seeing that rusty brake fluid, but we rarely see stuffed calipers because no rust in OZ, enjoy your parts trade due to rust "Merica"