Given your experience with the device, may I ask if, after the Black Box is installed, are you still able to perform tremolo "flutters"?

@@michaelmonstre Yeah i'd take that compromise

Me too.

I got rid of mine. They're a pain to set up

Yes me too pretty much exactly what I’ve been looking for but there are like no demo videos of this with d tuna on a floating bridge

Not for that one. However - I would add a brass tremolo stopper to level out the bridge and make direct contact to the block (huge tonal return) - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aMCCrNCa3Z-2ZYk.html

​@@FloydUpgrades​hello, i have a question about this that I have not been able to find the answer to. Maybe you could give me your thoughts? Can you set the spring tension on the stabilizer to be tight enough to easilydowntune the guitar? My purpose would be so that I can downtune the guitar down to Maybe a max of a step and a half down easily without having to readjust the Floyd bridge and still use the floating trem. Thanks

I wish you luck on that. Let me know if you had any success.

I’ve been trying to find ANY info on anyone who has installed both a tremolno and black box. So far, this is comment is the only thing I’ve found talking about. Please do make a video or some sort of post, idc, I just want to see if it’s plausible

People will usually put the box off to the side or else offset the srpings

Short of a Floyd Rose system, I’ve tried about everything in the book for standard Strat bridge stabilization, including a similar product that actually had not just one but two actuators. In theory you’d think that would have been even better, but after a short while it was back to the same old falling out of tune routine no matter how they were adjusted. The ultimate fix for me was to install “Raw Vintage” brand springs, and I used all 5 that come with the package. What makes them so nice is the tension does indeed feel like what I’d call vintage, circa 1960s Strats. They’re a bit lighter than any others I know of on the market (including Fender springs) and made a world of difference, just as much now as when I installed them a year ago. Best of all, they’re only about $25 a set and there are several varieties available.

The idea is that it prevents the tuning from going all out of wack when returning from a dive bomb and when doing deep bends. Below I included a demo of a similar product as well as a video by Herman Li detailing the issue the product hopes to solve (not directly about the product, rather about floating bridges as a whole) Demo: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qtqlfJp40ZjbYmg.html Herman Li Video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mt-qh61et56de30.htmlsi=ZICZWiFL14rvNBLU&t=432

The guitar he in the video has a D-Tuna

I think you probably wouldn’t be able to do backwards bends (the way dimebag did them). EVH was known for only pressing the trem forward for his harmonics

No flutter if it's adjusted firm enough to stay in-tune for blues/country style double stop bends.

It can be pretty finnicky at first. To me its easiest to "overdo it" at first then loosen it till its acceptable. Set the backbox spring itself as hard as it'll go (compress it all the way). Get the guitar in tune without the backbox in. Then move the other thumbwheel until the plunger its the tremolo sustain block. tighten the tremolo springs until the block is surely hitting the plunger, Check tuning again. Tighten the tremolo springs until they get so stiff that they blow past the backbox's spring. Loosen the tremolo springs back up until they are just not strong enough to push past the backbox spring. At this point it should be pretty damn stable but a little stiff. Loosen the tremolo springs until the amount the tremolo dumps forward when you do a regular string bend (not tremolo dive or pull!) bothers you. Loosen the spring on the backbox until it becomes too easy to pitch up the tremolo by putting your hand on the bridge.

I'm having the same problem. Followed the video, locked the nuts other than the top so I can go between E and drop D, and when I drop all the other strings go sharp. I messed with spring tension and the black box tension... couldn't get it to work. I might try reinstalling from scratch but I'm not very optimistic. Please reply if you get yours to work.

@@Viking_2011 i never did get it to work. I went back to a rigid stop

@@mikeopeka9900 I think it is just too much of a tension change. The unit seems to work great for working the trem pushing and pulling the bar, but if you break a string or drop tune, I can totally see how you would have issues.

@@evanmiller2579 it shouldnt, that was what that thing was designed for. The manual states that really have to invest time to find the right balance between spring and counterspring tension in the device

Was following this post because I had the same question about using the stabilizer. You guys have answered that even with tightening the spring tension on the stabilizer, you basically cannot downtune without adjusting tuning on all other strings but what about installing 2 stabilizers in the back? There's a video where he shows a brief glimpse of Steve Vai"s guitar and looks like he has 2. Anyone tried that or emailed Adam with their questions?

Will work with 'ANY' floating Trem!

Its called cam stop bolt, check whammyparts.org in the replacement parts section

@@maxmustardman298No, that's not what i'm talking about. The cam stop bolt only stops up pull, i'm talking about a stabilizer, which doesen't exist for Kahler cam trems.

@@cecilmusick8629 you can lock it down with screw in the back if thats what you mean, thats how would understand stabilize on a hybrid model

@@maxmustardman298 No, that's not what I mean. I know you can lock it into a fixed bridge. I'm talking about a stabilizer would be nice for a Kahler but they don't exist for Kahlers.

Depends on the bridge. Ibanez Edge Pro is to be parallel. Some others you look at the box on the side (where the knife edges are) and level THAT box with the body.