I'm actually in the process of re-plumbing my fuel system right now. All new filters, regulators, AN fittings and hose...the works. I know you spent a small fortune on all those parts and your hard work is greatly appreciated. I subbed, too.

Awesome Test, Good timing for me. Re-doing my fuel system this week. Thanks very much for posting. Appreciate you! Blessings and cheers from Motown.

Fantastic test! Very helpful! Great job!!

Awesome video! Just what I needed to know

Great test and video as usual. One thing I didn't hear you say was that even though there is a pressure drop post regulator, you can adjust the regulator to compensate for the drop going to the carb. so regardless of which filter you purchase, you can adjust the pressure to meet the carburetor's recommended pressure specification. In a real world scenario the gauge would be located last in line before the carb so you know exactly what pressure the carb is seeing, Yes? Thus adjusting the regulator to compensate for the filter shortcomings. Keep up the great videos, they are great teaching guides.

Impressive test! I like your videos 👍

Great content and I understand the intent of the test but what I didn't see mentioned was the flowrate conducted during the test? Real Filters are rated for X pressure drop @ X flowrate and everything being equal the filter with a larger surface area will yield the lowest pressure drop. If you really want to get into the weeds the differences are likely because of the accuracy/precision of the regulator and the efficiency of the filter element (Cheap filter housing with high efficiency filter material will outperform a shiny billet filter housing with a lower efficiency filter element - all other variables being equal). Also consider when working at low pressures that general use pressure gauges are 2.5%-5% accurate based on the full span and are most accurate in the middle 3rd of the range.

Would be interesting to know how much pre filter pressure would be needed to maintain 6psi post filter. Might show that on some filters the the filter just can't flow a specific psi, or maybe the paper filter starts to blow apart when too much psi is provided.

Nicely done... You should try a canister type as well. As fuel flow makes right angles, it causes a pressure drop at each turn.

Thanks for your test!

I appreciate your channel.

if you were to do a round 2 of these I would like to see what the filters from shitbox supply, one thing that matters too is the filter material (for e85) the ethanol breaks down the paper filters

love this video

Awesome video bro. 🔥🔥

Great Video Question on fuel pressure gauges ( liquid filled) are those better than non liquid , under the hood of the car ?

Great video. Nice to see a comparison of Chinese stuff all the way up to the only American made filter you tested. Funny that's the one that performed the best...

There are two types of fuel regulators. Those that maintain pressure on their output, rail pressure. Or those that maintain pressure on their input, as a bleed off. If you regulate fuel pre carb, when under a low to high fuel consumption, the regulator is not only playing catch up to the demand it becomes a restriction. If your carb is a dual fuel input the inlet closest to the main input from the fueling system will be favored. Together it can cause starvation, if only for a moment, to the bowls furthest from the fuel system input. By having a post carb regulator the potential pressure is at the carb. If the pressure at the carb drops the regulator will still be at a higher resistance after the carb. The fuel will take the first path of least resistance thus decreasing the quantity of fuel at the post regulator instead of via versa. The output bleed off of the post carb regulator is your fuel return line. Circulating all over pressure fuel through the entire fuel line including to the carb back to the tank. Kool fuel is happy fuel. As long as your pump can build enough pressure to get past any pre carb restrictions even at high demands, the carb can not starve. The post carb regulator may starve but then who give a squirt?

What is your opinion of aeromotive filter elements? I have an off brand housing and need to check what filter I have after my a1000. Trying to check costs and go with a competent brand

I have the clear version filter just before the regulator, with the pressure gauge just before the carb

So.....if you added a set amount of particulate to each and measured the pressure drop i would be more happy to see wot happens. Do any have filter media collapse or tear? Do you end up with fuel starvation or no? Good channel though! Filter pressure drop is best at zero no? I have used filters with bypassess in hydraulics applications to prevent starvation in an emergency. Shunting fluid to a clean filter and throwing a red light in the process. Overkill i know.

What did we learn here today? Well for one, your cheap gauges read higher than 0, with your pump OFF. So all this was for nothing. Would of loved to see some calibrated gauges being used.

That looks almost like my truck at 0:40. Which filter do you suggest using?

Just a little more information from my own personal experience. I've used most of those filters and some other brands. The Summit Racing and Russell Performance fuel filters have the stainless steel "pancake" elements just like that Jegs filter. So, if you don't like the pancake elements, avoid those brands, as well.

Fuel drop should be all the same micron . The only difference will then be size and material the filter is made from . Filters can be stainless mesh / sintered bronze /paper element

On a dual carb edelbrock edurachrome air gap set up what carb do i run to the vacum advance do i run it to primary (rear carb) or front carb or split it with 3 way connector and connect to both? Or install on intake in port?

Maybe I missed part of the video but am I missing something if I have a fuel pressure gauge right before the carburetor and after the second fuel filter and adjust my fuel pressure regulator while it's set up like this aren't you compensating for the pressure drop?

Have you heard of Pure Power 304 double woven stainless steel filters. I would bet that these filters would beat them all.

I have a Walbro frame mounted 392. What should I use for a pre filter? I have a Fitech TBI. 100 micron is what everyone says for EFI but Walbro says 20-40 micron pre filter. Also how about a 100 micron test?

Where did you get the tool to help put fittings on the hose?

Can you run the fuel filter test with a mechanical pump?

So which one to put on my 1984 C10 SBC

I’m not clear why the pressure drop at the filter is important if it is located upstream of the pressure regulator? So why pay the highest price for the most expensive filter unless it is a better filter or, for some reason, you have to install it downstream of the regulator.

My question is: In what situation would you need to put the regulator before the filter? Im Very new

you could connect two filters in parallel ...

This should be good!!

Hey bud question eddy 600 cfm recommened fuel pressure im hearing 3 psi thanks for any input

You should've started out with "Yes there is a substantial difference" or "No there really isn't for all of us who just need a quick answer. You get credit for the views whether or not we watch the entire video or not. KZfaq is a wonderful tool for those of us who use it for fast info when we have a question, or are in a jam, and need a really fast answer, but a lot of you abuse that by making us watch an entire video full of great info for a person wanting to know stats or small differences in products, when you could just as easily simply reveal at the beginning whether or n, you could ot there's a major difference and reason why we should continue watching, OR for those of us who don't have the time to watch 25 half hour long videos to find out what we need to know to get us off the side of the hot-ass road, you could just say "No there's no major difference, this probably isn't your problem, so move onto the next thing that might be your culprit,, as long as that MF looks pretty clean"......... OR "there is a major difference, in fact,, some of em' really suck right out of the box, so keep watching and I'll explain what's what, so you can make an informed decision on what to do from here".

By your chart the worst filer with the biggest drop is the Aeromotive one. Your chart says it had a 5.9-6.0 psi drop so if starting pressure was 6.0 psi then you had no pressure out of the filter. It would make more sense and be correct if you truly showed the delta valve of the pressure, this is what drop means is the delta of the two values. Thus the best filter being the Aerostar would have a PSI drop of .0 to .1 drop. Fluid dynamics needs to be involved and pumps don't make pressure they just make flow. restriction to the flow equals pressure. Maintaining pressure on a closed needle and seat in the carb is easy. Go WOT and the flow must increase to maintain pressure. These static type pressure regulators are not very good at maintain constant fuel pressure. They only flow anything over a given pressure without taking flow rate into effect. Using a dynamic type regulator where flow is bypassed back to the tank has many advantages, using a high flow pump you can maintain constant fuel pressure no matter the amount of flow. They also maintain constant flow thru system reducing possibility of vapor locking of the system.

Reason for , liquid filled gauges?

I have a better solution for you! Don’t use 10 micron fuel filters on a carbureted engine! 40 micron filters are more than excellent for even the most expensive finely tuned performance carburetors. 10 micron filters are a marketing gimmick for carbureted fuels systems. You’re waisting your money.

I just got back from buying a new filter just in time to see that you don’t like filters with the bronze element, which is what I got, Edelbrock 8139, I needed something short