@@jamesmarlowe2240 of course. That’s what it came off of.

@@jkhippie5929 you want as thick a spacer you can run. 2mm is nothing.

I don’t have a clue how long this was on the engine but it must have been waaaaaay too long. Horrible!

How else would you do it? It’s a raw dog type of operation!

@@MuscleCarSolutions my man!

I think any engineer would strongly disagree with that statement. 😂 It’s no longer a filter at that point.

@@scotty2307 I don’t know. I bought the mower used. Looks like the mower was new in 2017 or 2018 and if I were to guess, it’s the original one. 😳

@@MuscleCarSolutions LOL. Well, hopefully you got ahold of the mower in time to save it from early bearing failure. I just don't understand people who don't maintain their equipment.

@@scotty2307 this poor thing was abused. I’m sure it enjoyed the new filter and fresh oil! 😆

@@johnleinen7167 this is off a riding mower. So I’m guessing the neglect factor was high. I don’t think it was ever changed! 😳 Crazy.

@@GodandGears thanks much!

@@halseyknox pretty remarkable that a manufacturer is willing to spend all that money and time developing something that is supposedly dead. I hope they sell a million of those things. Gotta appreciate the new products to keep peoples options open. Very cool indeed.

Welcome!

I guess it was just an accident that some of the advertised ratings were very close to what we measured. How do you explain that?

@@MuscleCarSolutions I stated why. They are listing the numbers based on different test parameters. Some are giving you the DC resistance, which is why they come out close on a typical meter. Some are likely giving you the impedance at frequency, which is the important metric. DC resistance does not tell you the same thing as it does in a typical DC circuit carrying steady state lower voltage current. The current is pulsed, high voltage, that has a significant negative component, through a conductor insulated in a dielectric core. This is precisely why plug wires are made the way they are rather than a simple insulator capable of handling the voltage. They are more like an RF coax than a simple conductor. The white inner insulator is a dielectric core. Its the dielectric, along with the conductor that give its characteristic impedance (not resistance) at frequency, not just the conductor alone.

@@ArionRaine while all of that is fascinating, and I’d love to see you make that video showing all those possible tests and further explain RFI, how current moves through different types of configurations; thats not what this video was about. Simply the one measurement that most aftermarket plug wire manufacturers advertise. Ohms of resistance per foot. We tested it. The results were very close in some instances and off in others. I really hope you’ll make that video that will show there is no difference in spark energy in spark plug wires.

@@DesertRatFabrication the who? 😆 The AVS2 is a great carburetor. Very easy to tune. Great throttle response. It was almost instantly Edelbrock’s number one selling carb.

@@MuscleCarSolutions oh ok, someone sent me the text AVS2.1, ok I will look into it, thanks

@@DesertRatFabrication nope. It’s just an AVS2. No changes to it but it’s a great carburetor for sure!

And probably require and recommend spiral core wires.

It’s always an anxious time. 😆 Best of luck!

@@MarcS-mp1je never ever use a lubricant to assemble a push lock style fitting. Sure it makes the job easier, but easy on, easy off. The tool is invaluable. Assemble dry and extremely easy to do an entire fuel system.

@@Robs-Garage-experiments it wouldn’t be a test of it was still saturated with gas! Well it would, but a useless one.

@@Anyoneofus978 thanks for watching! Part two coming soon! 👍

@@dannovello1577 verify float settings, set your regulator at 6 psi, make sure there is nothing blocking the needle and seats. Sounds a lot like heat soak to me. Are you running an insulating spacer between the manifold and carburetor?

@@kennethlee1031 keep watching the series. We cover a very key element that only happens with time. Lifter bore wear. Something no one is talking about but it’s absolutely a problem today with engines that have been in service for decades. Thanks!

@@guidorea8347 removing the spring to make it absolutely obvious when it seats is still the key. Sometimes you can feel that stop, other times it’s not as obvious.

@@maxsinger3526 depends really. Will always just be a cruiser or do you have plans to build something with more power and rpm? If you’re staying stock and your max rpm is 4500 and it’s just a cruiser, the 500 will be much easier to tune and be a much nicer driving engine.

@@chadwensing6062 the question is what did you build the engine/vehicle for? Focusing on spending time at the track? That cam (depending on the LSA) is really designed for solid mid range performance. So making that assumption, a 4150 style carburetor will flow a lot of more fuel and help you achieve that more rich condition that a track vehicle will like. If you just chose a big cam because you like the sound and it’s still very much a cruiser with some occasional track time or just some spirited driving, the AVS2 will operate just fine in that condition and with that amount of engine vacuum. As far as Edelbrock goes, they are extremely short staffed these days. Much like most of the bigger brands. I can tell you the performance aftermarket has been beat down since Covid, folks giving up and retiring early with no one to replace them, and an extremely poor economy with inflation driving costs of everything much higher. Not to get off on a rant here but….it takes forever to train someone for a tech line. Even more if it’s for cam selection type tech work. Those folks used to be all over the place and eager to jump in and learn and offer that service. Today? We’re all old, fat and looking to retire! It’s dire to say the least. I’m hopeful things will find their way and we’ll see some sort of resurgence in the market. Unfortunately that path hasn’t shown itself yet. How’s that to end on a positive message? 😄 Sorry. I felt like typing it out. Have a great day! 👍

Yeah I hear ya lol. Thanks man. It's a cruiser for sure. I do like to get a little rowdy in it though. It's a 109 lsa in a 86 c10 suburban with stock converter. I will research the avs2 a little more. Thanks again

You think the 650 or 800 cfm?

@@chadwensing6062 sounds like for that set up I would use the 650 and be perfectly fine as a cruiser.

I'm assuming that 8-10 hg vacuum is at idle position ?With that moderate cam,you'l probably need more initial ignition timing in your distributor and/or vacuum advance connected to manifold vacuum,which will raise idle rpm,making you adjust the idle speed down,closing the throttle plates more and increasing idle vacuum,also helps with carby idle to transition slot tuning, if applicable,My 355 has a 234/244 @ 0.050" solid FT running well on 20deg initial-32 full advance ignition timing on the distributor,no vacuum advance,but I will be experimenting more with adding vac advance.Disregard all of the above if you are using an optimised efi ignition timing map or programmable timing lol

The Evolution lifters have been amazing so far. Much more quiet than a traditional roller. One suggestion. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS! The evolution has a different lash from zero than others. The break in is not nearly as complicated as a flat tappet, but anytime you have new parts, it’s a good idea to use a break in oil for all those new parts - especially rings.

That’s the problem of not writing out a script and letting my brain just ramble on while having other things rattle around in there. I’m really good at this.

😊

It always surprises me how many are totally fine with buying a knock off. I guess I’m too old.

Forgot about that. No. YT died as I was wrapping up and it cut the last few minutes. I’ve got a number of assembly videos that you could fast forward to that point. Nothing is too model specific at that point. Sorry about the cut off!

There was nothing to save. 😆 The last owner cross threaded it and ripped the top 3-4 out.

The top treads were completely pulled away. No chance for a tap. There wasn’t nothing left to correct. That vacuum port is deep. So the best move was to clean them up for the plug to go back in and let the next owner decide if they’re going to tap it for another barbed end.

😂😂 there were no threads to chase. Someone cross threaded it and they were completely pulled away. There’s another 1/2” of thread into the body. There’s nothing to fail. It’s a vacuum port.

Guess the close up of the first 3-4 thread completely pulled away was too difficult to see. Can’t run a tap through something that isn’t attached. The next owner can finish the drill and tap if they want. For now, at least the plug works as intended.

@@MuscleCarSolutions Didn't need a close up to see lazy work done. Do it right or leave it to the people that will. Half a$$ isn't right. But hey what can you expect from a shade tree mechanic trying to scam a buck.

@@lil_swayvo 😆😆😆😆😆😆

Are you gonna start rapping now Karen? 😆😆😆

Someone wasn’t very kind to it.

Nope. Now that’s it’s confirmed it threads in easy, I’m taking it all back apart and cleaning those chips out of it! 😆

The first four or so threads were broken away. I had hoped that would clean it up but when I got a closer look, they were just too far gone. Now I could tap for a larger size and the next owner of this carb will have a nice clean slate to start that from if they wish to. Thanks for that question! Hard to cover details in a minute long short.

@@MuscleCarSolutions The joys of car ownership.

Million times out of a million, the dog trumps everything else! No need to explain that bud! I’m right there with ya. Hope your pup feels better soon.

I was all out of bubble gum. 😂

Heat does indeed, kill!

It was worthy of saving! It’s a very clean carb otherwise.