That's a great idea! Thanks

Smart work indeed

Did you notice any crud that got disolved

Right you're supposed to tap on it.

I just tried this on mine and my injectors got hot really fast so definitrely do not have constant power. Just tap on them.

Awesome! Glad my videos helped!

I don't think id backflush, just to avoid contamination in that direction.

Yeah. Didn't seem to be an issue and I've watched them flow test injectors by running current for longer than I did. I left other end without clamp so i could easily swap out injectors.

@@JeepSolid was that nearly solid flow pattern similar to a new injector? Of course higher pressure would render more atomization. Still, that injector sure seemed to flow a lot at that low pressure.

4x4Scout, That's is part of the cleaning process in cleaning fuel injectors, back flushing. If you don't take the baskets out " SCREEN FILTER " back flushing will get the junk out of the basket. Or you could buy new baskets, check OHMS, spray pattern, pintle caps, flow rate, pulse operation, ect....

JeepSolid, When flow testing the off on cycle "PULSE " of the injector is so fast it seems like it's a continuous spray but it pulses really fast. That injector you were cleaning sprayed like a garden hose, should be more atomization even for a 2 hole injector.

Thank you! Glad you found my channel. Maybe it'll help in the future..

Lmfao,RIIGGGHHHHHHTTTTTT

buy ultrasonic and put in lets 3minute there we go that the easier one*

Reuse dirty spray cleaner no way unless it been filter.

@@rcrotorfreak having cleaner in a jar is good to soak pieces in to dissolve heavy buildup. Then spray to finish cleaning. It works until the used spray gets too dirty. Then collect it again. I never had a problem doing that.

Whether the stopper and straw tip touches the fuel injector or not makes no difference and doesn't provide "more cleaning force." Liquids are non-compressible. When you apply a force to a liquid in a container, it transmits the force instantly and fully all around. You could use a 3 foot length of hose, and it would make no difference once the hose was filled with the solvent and the pressure in the can was equalized with the hose. The pressurized gas in the end of the hose and in the can apply the force to the liquid to force it out of the injector when it's opened up. Arguably, if you had a 3 foot section of hose hanging vertically with the injector as the bottom and the can up top, THAT WOULD give you more "cleaning force" because the physical weight of the 3 foot column of liquid pushing down on the injector via gravity would add to the pressure supplies by the propellant gas in the can!!! 😸 Additionally still, if you were filling the hose for the first time, you could pinch off the hose halfway with a clamp, fill the upper half of the hose with liquid, then switch the injector open and keep the valve of the can open as you release the clamp. The pressurized liquid would start entering the hose at high velocity to propel the whole 1.5 foot long column of solvent liquid toward the injector, accelerated even further by gravity at 9.8 m/s², and the impact of the non-compressible liquid hitting any stubborn deposits in the pintle would dislodge them much better than liquid that's just being sprayed 2mms out if the can alone. See? 😸 Physics. It's a cool thing. 😎

@@mannys9130 less area where pressure is applied equals more force. That's physics 101. Liquid is under pressure when it is in a container with added pressure. That's physics 102.

Yeah. Can't do that here

A fuel injector isn't 'smog shit'. The performance of injectors surpasses throttle body or carbureted engines any day. Just say'n, unless you were referring to something else.

I did just that by following the same example of another video - 14.5 ohms (in spec.) before, 15.5 ohms (out of spec.) after. Oh, and I also cracked the aged pintle cap removing the lower o ring. $50 round trip to O'Reilly to buy an overpriced, budget injector. Don't let this happen to you fellas.

How do you use a multimeter to figure out how much pressure a fuel injector is giving off?

@@Force1Com You can't really check the pressure/spray pattern except by hooking it up and blowing carb cleaner through it. By selecting resistance on your multimeter you can tell if it is in acceptable operating range. Of course, you would have to research what are the specifications ("spec.") of your injector. NOTE: this method is tricky and I was unsuccessful with it. I gave up trying to clean them and bought Bosch replacements at Rock Auto (beware there are fakes out there) for my '05 Sentra. My gas mileage improved from 19.1 to 26 mpg, my misfire disappeared and it cleared the dreaded P0171 which dogged me for 4 yrs. despite replacing the MAF & fuel pump.

@@Force1Com you would use a multimeter set to “ohms” . ( which would measure resistance between each side of your fuel injector solenoid . You can look up what the spec resistance should be . Or maybe measure resistance of a new one 😉.

good point - say, isn't the fuel injector for the 4.0 piezo based ? For solenoid/electromechanical injector type you should have a separate side inlet for the fuel and the magnetic/solenoid on top of the injector - your thoughts ? Thanks.

Ls swap

An injector should produce a fine, misty spray pattern. There may be discernible jet streams coming from multiple holes in the pintle nozzle, but the edges of those individual streams should be super feathery and foggy, and shortly after leaving the nozzle it should look like a fuel fog rather than a jet of liquid. Until you get your injectors to spray a very fine foggy cloud of cleaning solvent, keep going. Alternate forward flushing and back flushing every 15 seconds or so. By that I mean flip the injector around so that you spray cleaner in each side back and forth. The cleaner won't come out well at all when back flushing them. No pattern or mist. That's fine, you only get the fine mist when spraying in the direction that fuel would flow normally. 👍 Gasoline liquid is not flammable. Gasoline vapor is EXTREMELY flammable. The injector's job is to atomize the jet of liquid gasoline into very tiny droplets which have such a small surface area that they evaporate by themselves into vapor that can be ignited by the spark plug. If the injector doesn't break up that liquid gasoline into teeny tiny droplets, they take a long time to evaporate; longer than it takes for the piston to draw them in, reach bottom dead center, compress the fuel and air charge, and get pushed back down as the spark plug ignites the charge and it starts to rapidly burn. Ideally, ALL of the tiny fuel droplets are evaporated entirely into gasoline vapor by the time the piston is ~1/2 way up on the compression stroke. That means all of the gas charge is mixed with the air and flammable to push the piston down and drive the vehicle. When the droplets are too big and fail to fully evaporate, the same volume of fuel produces a weak combustion event and a bit more fuel has to be injected to get the proper combustion event. That means less gas mileage, and all the little droplets that did not evaporate and burn are pushed out into the exhaust which become unburned hydrocarbon emissions which the catalytic converter has to "burn" which heats it up, fouls it with carbon, and shortens its lifespan. So, TL;DR you need to clean them until you get a nice misty, foggy spray pattern with no discernible boundary margins of each jet past an inch or so after the injector nozzle. Forward flush and back flush until you get that result. Then you're done.

lol who knows but is it really worth taking the chance with lpg? Call the dealer and various shops that will work on lpg cars and find out what kind of cleaner they use. Can't be too hard to figure out

Sounds good in theory but, A-You wouldn't be able to see if one of the injectors wasn't engaging while doing it that way and ,.. B- wouldn't see if they were all spraying in a spray pattern rather than just a stream. A spray pattern is what you want to see to know that the injector is working properly. So ,yes it would be easier, but also the laziest and most unreliable way of doing it. Just do it the right Way and stop looking to cut corners. Or cut corners and learn the hard way. Up to you bud

No issue that I know of. It's a trick I've seen other mechanics use on this application

Plumbers grease is safe for all rubber. I know mechanics use Vaseline but I have had issues when putting a petroleum based lube on rubber

Vaseline(aka petroleum jelly) will deteriorate rubber. The question is whether these o-rings are ‘natural’ rubber or synthetic. To be safe, silicone spray should be used.

Maybe yours were fine

Check compression

Check fuel pressure . Pump may be week..

In this case it doesn't matter.

Gasoline is a petroleum product.

The longer the line the more cleaner you spill/waste when you disconnect and switch between injectors.

New parts are distributor,crank position sensor,coil cap, roater. Wires,and plugs timeing is set and checked still a ton of cranking no start

All other parts swapped from the yj

Intake and exhaust manifolds distributor and valve cover

Yes

Not really the battery magnetizes a coil in the injectors which open and close the injectors. Keeping the battery connected to the injectors just means the coil stays magnetized

The cleaner coming out of the can is pretty cool, but you'll be able to feel the outside of the injector housing. Probably not a good idea if it starts to get warm. Better to pulse it obviously