Modern acrylics dry much faster than the old enamels, reducing the fingerprints smears.

Thank you for your service for our great nation, and welcome home sir!

Thank you for your service.

That was one hell of a war. Glad you made it home.

@@thewokefindergeneral7631 for me, it was a experience of a lifetime. one war is enough for this olehippy. Keep Smilin

I've built five of these over the years, three gunships, and two slicks.

salute to your Pops. Depending on what year he was there, I may have run across him.. I was a medic at 3rd Field Hospital in Saigon, worked in the Operating Room. 1972. I was later stationed at Ft. Campbell , Ky.. in 1973 , the Home of the 101st Airborne.

@@olehippy13 the same years brother. 556 Med. Batt.

@@LKS-1976 How cool is that. Tell your Pops, welcome home. I just celebrated my 69 th Birthday this past Oct 13th. Keep Smilin. Agent Orange left its mark on me, I"ve been diagnosed with Parkinsons due to exposure to AO from my time in Nam. I hope your Pops is alright. I've had both my hips replaced, pacemaker installed.... grin.. Still tickin. Later my friend.

@@olehippy13 pops turning 70 next March. He has Parkinsons also. Don't think he was diagnosed with AO. Lots of other stuff wrong though. I'll tell him. Welcome home also brother. I'm a vet myself, a medic/Paratrooper from the mid and late 90s. Walked in my pops shoes.

@@olehippy13 I just told pop about you. He was stoked. We lost ma 4 years ago, his health and that, he ain't a happy guy. I shared this video to his email so he can see these comments. Cheers doc

totally agree

Thanks. I have subsequently started using Testors clear cement on my other models and it is so much better. I have tried the clear PVA glue, regular thin cement and superglue. The clear cement glue is so much better!

Unless you've coated the clear parts first, stay away from superglue which can fog the plastic even with just the ACC fumes. You've mentioned other choices but another is clear acrylic paint. It won't craze the plastic and can be scraped off with a toothpick if you don't get it right the first time. Lovely build!!

Enjoy... it's an oldie but a goodie.

@Festus Haggen I think the 9squadron used H models for the gunship role but they also could have used the D model.

Are they even good out of the box?

@@landon_hartwig25 no it’s a old kit, revell use the same ejection mold they use from when they first produce it from back in the days you have to make it work, all five of my kits that I build the fuselage was warp at the tail. I just dipped it in boiling water to soften the plastic so I can form it straight. My only issue is that I wish revell correct those door hinges where the pilots sit that makes the kit look unrealistic, I always cut them off and use a little putty to fill the holes.

Absolutely correct. "D" and "H" models were slicks. "B" "C" and "M" models were used as gunships. In addition the model shows no door gun mounts or seats for few chief and gunner. It also doesn't have the armoured seats for the pilot and co-pilot which were standard after about mid 1966. Some colors are off also, but I'm being picky as I was a crew chief on a "Charlie" model gunship in 1966-67.

thank you for your service.

Can you imagine the size of the clear rotor disc if you wanted to make it seem flying? Wow!!

It’s not

@@stevenguy2630 I learned that the hard way, it’s currently cut into two halves and the front half was all I could really get to look decent

Requires a fair amount of extra work to make it look decent.

they did the 32nd scale slick earlier .

I have another video reviewing the model and showing the instructions. You can screenshot them to build your model

@@MDScaleModels thank you man. I appreciate it

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/palypNeqtdy7hGw.html

Jordan, you're a good man to help your grandfather. I've been fighting cancer for 15 years and have faced "a few" (lol) difficulties. You have no idea how much you help your grandpa, even if it seems like "just a little thing" to you. If he's like me (and most others), one of the hardest parts is having to admit you need the help. But to have a loving family member like you there to provide the assistance makes it easier than having a stranger provide the same thing. You first have to accept the stranger, then accept their help. And to all you dedicated, hardworking and unselfish help-providers, PLEASE understand this is NOT an insult to or about you! Without your help many of us would be absolutely lost. It is just part of the process. So Jordan, please allow me to say a heartfelt 'Thank You' from all of us that need help from time to time - your contribution just cannot be measured - and sadly is undervalued way too many times. Sorry to change gears from modeling, but you (and people like you) NEED to know how much you are valued and loved by your family - even if we forget to say the words 'thank you'. I hope your model turns out great, but no matter what, Grandpa will appreciate it! Been there, done that, got the scars and missing body parts... and still fighting, thanks to my family which I owe so much to. Thom, a Professional Cancer Butt-Kicker!

@@thomream1888 thank you so much man

Keep going. It is a lot of work for this particular model but you’ll have a nice result in the end…

I actually did not clean it and I know that's why I got fisheyes. Sometimes its from water as well to flush out my airbrush. I don't usually want to wait for it to dry if I wash it... lol

I got news for ya - we did. Called them birds, choppers and helicopters. 1st Infantry Division, 1st Aviation Battalion, the Longhorns. Vietnam war. I was a door gunner on a UH-1D slick. 1966-1968. Perhaps each outfit and each generation has its own way of doing things and saying things.

You can use any decal setting solution. It helps to soften the decal to fit the shape of the model. I use a mixture of Tamiya, Testors and Model Master. All acrylics. I thin them down a little for airbrushing.

Thanks for watching. I have no idea how many hours it took... I often work on multiple models at a time. The fit wasn't great and took a lot of fine tuning. I don't sell my models but maybe one day when I run out of display space :)

Model master aluminum. Also used Tamiya Titanium

For dry brushing I use AK interactive Aluminum

@@MDScaleModels thank you!

You get better with each build

It is skill level 4, so it would be a struggle for anyone as their 3rd kit. I would maybe tackle it after having finished 20 kits. The molds are very old and cause a lot of flash on parts, but even worse than that, many of the parts are just misshapen and don't fit well. Lots of injection marks and sinkholes to fill. It is just an overall bad kit, but a good kit to test your skills. Don't feel bad throwing it out after you are done with it.

For larger areas of paint I use a 0.5mm otherwise I use a 0.3mm needle. I do also thin almost all the paint with Vallejo Airbrush Thinner so it doesn’t get blocked. I also have to clean the brush regularly.

50/50 with thinner will help.....or use aerosol primer.

Vallejo Polyurethane Satin Varnish

@@MDScaleModels Thank you. Watching you video inspired me to have a go at weathering. Previously I had always built my models as if they had just come off the production line. I bought an airbrush and a Revell Huey and followed the steps of your video. I’m absolutely stunned at how well it came out and how real it looks. It’s transformed modelling for me after many many years of building. Thank you so much

They are popular at your local Hobby Lobby's. Or online.

It was Testors Olive Drab

Just ordinary mounting putty from Walmart.

@@MDScaleModels thank you

I made them myself. I'll attach a video here of how to do that.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/npl-etOHzcq1o6M.html

Unfortunately, CCR music is copyrighted but that is a great song choice. If you look at the video a couple of times you will be able to see how I did parts of the chopper.

@@MDScaleModels alr i loved it

I bought several different sizes from eBay. 0.1mm copper, 0.3mm lead solder, 0.5mm solder and 1mm solder.

@@MDScaleModels Thank you!

Right, they are not well molded and difficult to put in straight.

I used mounting putty. Typically used for putting up pictures on a wall.

No, no a la venta, pero gracias ...

I don’t do commissioned builds so I’m not sure.

USA

Bell helicopters started before WW2

@@MDScaleModels the first bell was in Korea I believe as medical choppers

@@bradkaberline8549 The first helicopter yes, but the company with the name was pre-WW2.

It's some tracks from bensound.com

@@MDScaleModels Thanks👍

Hobby Lobby usually has them and they are 40% discount every other week.

プラモデルで飛ばない。ラジコンヘリコプターはある程度の練習が必要ですが、ホバリングするだけなので飛行機よりも飛行を学ぶのはおそらく簡単です。

Remote control helicopters with a full cyclic/collective head are a lot harder to control that fixed wing aircraft. You are controlling cyclic pitch, collective pitch, rotor speed, and yaw all at once and very difficult to learn.

١

Usually a relatively inexpensive kit.

Sorry. I don’t sell them.

www.ebay.com/itm/333992384550?epid=1839748057&hash=item4dc37f5826:g:NhkAAOSwbiBglSNl

www.ebay.com/itm/402823707977?epid=1839748057&hash=item5dca29fd49:g:MuEAAOSwofFgkXFB

Nó dài 40cm và tỉ lệ 1/32. Bạn có thể mua từ eBay. Dưới đây là một số ví dụ. Tôi không biết nếu họ vận chuyển quốc tế. Tìm kiếm trên eBay và bạn có thể tìm thấy người sẽ giao hàng cho bạn.

My own model building has improved so much from watching other people’s builds and seeing their techniques. Something you can’t get from just seeing a photo.

yea i was sitting on my couch and was like, hot damn this dude is going above and beyond for this build

The real Huey windshields are more angled on the sides… they drop down more.

They did mess it up

yes, I've started using a different glue. I tried the extra thin, CA glue and Testors Clear Glue...

Most people don’t want to watch a 2-hour video.

@@MDScaleModels Then they're not interested. Others break their projects up into parts. Some of us...who can't...like to watch the work of those who can. Personally, I can't watch that.