When boring with twist drill ,back it out often and clear the shavings using a stiff plastic brush, so you do not cut finger tips So the chips do not overheat the bit ,, or bind up the bit , smaller diameter bits could break off or even jam inside and not back out with the tailstock handwheel . Forstner bits with a lead spur ,,usually only have a lead spur on the edge , Speed bore bits have a tapered lead screw like an auger bit that helps to draw the bit into the timber , and the shoulders have 3 or 4 saw teeth and cot better boring side grain wood, Spade bits , have a long lead spur , so the leave an indent at least a quarter to 3/8" deeper than the cutting face

Thank you Sam, enjoying the series, all the best for a speedy recovery.

About 12 months ago I bought a mixed lot of gouges and carving chisels, there was a half inch auger stuck into a handle. You’ve just quenched my inquisition. Coincidentally I've just upgraded my drill press's chuck and morse taper so I have one spare. Another superb video, thank you.

Thank you for your Video's, I am very new at wood turning in fact I am learning as much as I can before I start and to be honest, your explainations are very easy to follow and I am learning a lot from your in depth explinations. I hope you make lots more films on wood turning and wood working in general. THANKS AGAIN.

Just love these. Videos you put out thank you!

I’m so happy I found your channel! Super helpful information. Thanks so much!

Sam, this is another excellent video.

Great video, definitely going to have to keep saving up to get my own shop started soon!

Sam, thanks for another lesson. Still learning. JimE

Very thorough instruction on drilling procedures on the lathe Sam, I must say my preferred drill type is the twist drill or the forstner bit, but that's just me :) Take care Mike

Will I to bleed while wood turning ? Good information , Thanks

Very nice... Mr. Van I use a Fostner to drill? Thanks very much...

Great videos! Someone who's looking to get into wood turning their very informational and helpful. I have watched a lot of your videos and can't help but notice that in most of them you have what appears to be blood or some Injury to your hand.

I've got a step drill bit that tapers up to 30mm wide and gives a nice wide starting point for hollowing in one quick procedure and the cone shape makes light work of establishing the shape for my subsequent cuts. Not very good if you want a deeper hole but I thought I'd share seeing as though I've not seen anyone else do it...... Nice work Sam

Hi Sam thanks for another great video. I notice you never mentioned flat / spade bits. I have a 8 mm /5\16 flat bit which is 400 mm / 16" long mounted in a handle. I use it on the lathe mainly for wiring lamps but I have used to drill pilot holes for larger bits or setting the depth of hollow forms. It works well and clears the saw dust very well. I haven't tried anything larger than that as I think it would be difficult to hold on to. Any way keep up the good work Jim

samthe bits you were showing on #2 DRILLING ON LATHE AND JACOB CHUCK.THANKS HANK

hi the tip on masonry drill bit is made from tungsten carbide, its angle is set for breaking concrete etc. it will not stop any one grinding a new cutting angle to help cut wood better, similar to router bits. thanks for the videos hope your healing well from your accident.

Again, as always, even a seasoned turner (like me... ;) ) can learn so much from every video you come out with, vary valiable information. I like drilling using my tail stock since I've had mixed results using hand held drills (my first tool handle was for a Jacobs chuck for a drill, and of course I drilled it all wrong so it's off center...), but I don't know what it is, maybe my cheep lathe, but I almost never get a true hole, even if I make a divit to start with, at some point my drill starts to dance around... although not always, I guess it depends on the grain of the wood, and on how hard it is.

A masonry bit will not pull it self (like a screw) like a twist drill bit in a pre-drilled hole because it has the negative grind on the masonry drill face.

At 6:03: "This is my ball! Do you want to play with me? No? But this is my ball, ok?" ;-)

Well, I certainly learned a lot from this video. #1) I was drilling my lid way too fast. #2) I should pre-drill a smaller hole first. Trying again tomorrow. My Jet 1642 has two belt settings. Which one do I use and does it matter?

Yet ANOTHER great video Sam! Always look forward to your videos, but I noticed something in this video that you don't do and that is use a threaded rod to anchor your drill chuck/morse taper into the tailstock so it won't come out when you remove the drill from the wood. I know it prevents you from using the tailstock quill to drill the hole and forces you to manually move the tailstock fwd/rvrse, but always thought it was the 'safer' way to go rather than the morse taper coming out of the tailstock accidently whenever trying to remove the drill bit from the wood. Any thoughts/comments? The other thing is I often use a metal drill starter bit (a short bit designed to start a drill into metal...) in end grain and/or hard/dense wood. I was taught that this allows a good straight center hole which helps a normal drill bit to drill straighter... Is this excessive or??? Again, your thoughts/comments? Again, great to see your hand healing and you back in the shop again! Safe turning always! Kenn

Very nice, I guess this is my third video of yours, I'm new to full/mid size lathes. It looks like the spinning wood helps keep the drill bit centered in the piece. I guess this makes sense, I just never thought about it before. I have acquired a Craftsman/Duracraft 3/4hp wood lathe and it was suggested to me to get a 3/4-16 tap and just tap out hardwood glue blocks and even to try turning with a 3/4 tapped wood block. Curious about your opinion about this (I found this video while searching for info!)

Great video Sam. I had heard that brad point bits tend to follow the grain when drilling in end grain. Not sure if you had heard that or use them for drilling end grain. I'd love to hear your thoughts on that.

Sam, a little foreshadowing with the red dye on the fingers! So sorry about your accident. Looking forward to more videos.

Nice presentation Sam but you missed giving out the CAUTION when using Forsner, brad (lip and spur) bits - the centre pointed part of the bits is about 3mm (1/8") longer than the flat cutting part. The problem arises when you want a thin (3mm 1/8") top or bottom and you end up with a pinhole centre. Keep up the good work!!!

Hi Sam I've used most of the drills mentioned here (haven't tried spade bits yet). Mostly its unproblematic. The difficulty comes when I want to make a fairly long hole with a small bit. It seems it's always off center at the headstock end when I'm done. A small twist drill (say 1/8") has some flexibility to it so I suppose that's the problem. But you can't get a stiffer Forstner bit smaller than about 1/4 inch. Any suggestions?

Hi Sam. thanks for sharing. Do you have a tip for drilling by hand and not ending with a wobble? Maybe I need a level and a square :-) Marc

Good Ideas, what about Drilling with large Forstner bit on the lathe to hollow small boxes, Is it safe?

sam were do you purchase your drill bits.thanks hank

Don’t use spade bits!

one comment alot of times when a morris taper bits spins in its holder the holder may be dirty inside barring any damage if not dirt seems to be the main culprit

making the hole in the wood is very difficult. Can your technique be applied in one foot long pieces?

Sam, I'm in Bozeman, Montana. What part of Wyoming are you in ? I'm a novice and need to ask questions, would that be ok ? Wayne Joyner

Hi Sam... No sign of bandages... How are your finger doing? Take care Tom

Hope you are healing well.

Enjoy your dog while you can, they are here today and gone tomorrow. Why can a turtle or even a parrot live sometimes over a hundred years old but canines get 15 approximately. What's up with that?????

67th.

Blood. Again!

This dude is always blooded up. WTF!