Good, I was thinking about what a shame it is to put a Pi in such a nice machine but thats fixed now :) Nice arcade machine you got there. I have build a 32" fullsize arcade from scratch, design, drawing, building, finish) and I think it would not look bad next to yours

Nice. I want to go for a Matrix themed four player cab with an lcd marquee. And Sinden light guns

Thanks!

Glad you like it!

Thank you!

Hard? Is that new slang for DOPE? Or BAD!? I need to collect my middle aged gamer card fml...

@@EQOAnostalgia Hard = good where i am from

Pi's are slow. The only time they should be used is in a bartop. This full cabinet won't be able to run Pinball FX3, PC games, Arcade dumps, more powerful MAME titles, or the best frontends/theme switchers.

@@80skeys87 Yea,I see.I 7se q 3.0 gigahertz daulcore and it plays every mame game thats out there at full speed depends if its a fully hacked game.it runs all the old tickets maxed.same with dream cast max emulation performance no lag with crt.it gos up to ps2 games than it bottle knecks there.i am running a gtx 9800 pluss.I have all my emulators running and perfectly matched to my 60 hertz tv so there's zero input lag maybe a sec maybe of delay you will never notice I am very graphic and input delay ocd.Technically its best to get a up dated faster computer to run the bigger systems.It depends on what builds and games you want to run front ends.I still use all old emulators since I do not have wifi on my arcade so I can strip down most running processes to max out the cpu power I over clock some games like teken in mame other emulators to get tekken run full.teken 1,2,3.once I over clock the two games cpu cores.it starts off buggy than I do little over clocking walla,fully smooth,full,animation no lag,tekken or any old mame 3d games.

Artwork is a non gloss finish which I don't care either way really If glossed though it may be a little too much on the eyes IMO. If he wanted the original glossed he could have just added on a gloss clear wrap on top of the original graphics Would have saved himself alot more headache rather than ripping off and worrying about reapplying

@@jaymarucci1945 He's not doing a reskin for the finish, he just has original ideas for his cabinet now. I thought it looked good, but a little dull. You might be right though.

Answer is in my video

You have to let GRS know the trackball cutout you need when you place the order.

@@jaymarucci1945 Thanks bud. What tv did you get? I want to get one that fits properly. Also be interested where you got your led buttons. They good quality? I have real HAPP buttons that work good but they aren't illuminated.

@@pdxmetal I listed TV model # in here Video explains where I got the buttons

@@jaymarucci1945 Thanks. I found it in the comments. From the video seems you bought the buttons from tmolding but all places it'll be similar/generic because genuine HAPP/Sanwa don't make led in all the bezel combinations.

Taking my time, about 3 (non full) days but thats including the install of the electronics and all the wiring. The cabinet itself goes together rather quickly

@@jaymarucci1945 Thanks for the response! I've been wanting one of these for years, but the price/wiring have always intimidated me. But with the quarantine upon us, and no arcades open, this feels like the perfect time to finally pull the trigger. Gotta come up with a theme for the art on mine though.

@@JonPaulHart Exactly what I tought, pricing for a full build is so very high so I drew one myself, build it, put my old game pc in it and now I would not wanna trade it for the world

Gold

Thank you. I posted the set model number for someone else here in the comments. You can find there.

That’s the coolest idea I have ever heard for a cab because of the backstory. I would rip the idea, but a high school themed cabinet is impossibly lame.

Couple weeks

@@jaymarucci1945 damn

Must be the pandemic. Ryan ships things out very quickly. On average 3 days delivered to your door for in stock items; obviously this takes a few days to prepare. His shop might've had some staffing limitations and so the cutting and artwork took a bit longer. But once it's done they ship fast.

I pieced it all together. The cabinet comes in the form of a kit. I purchased all the electronics seperately and wired it all up. The front end image I heavily modified and also included additonal games that weren't on it. You have to find that stuff on your own. This is what took most of my time for this build as I had to reprogram and teach myself everything about the Retropie software and make tweaks on the programming for my control panel button layout configuration when using the IPac2 controller. It was a big job getting both Aimtrak lightguns to work on the Pi. It's not perfect and some games don't cooperate fully but I have a great library of lightgun shooters, trackball, and spinner games that work 100%. I had to calibrate each game one at a time for crosshair function on the lightguns and seperately adjust spinner/trackball speeds. Plus figure out how to program Advame 1.4 so there was no conflict of computer "mice" since this is how retropie identifies all 3. There was nothing out there on how to do this and what I did find didn't work for me so was all trial and error on my own until I figured it out. I have the Pi3B+ O.C'd now too at a stable 1.6 Ghz so really helped improve some of the more taxing and demanding shooter games like Area51. Maybe sometime down the road I upgrade to a PC but I have put so much time into this front end and the programming that Im in no rush and ok if I never get to it. It runs very well.

@@jaymarucci1945 oh wow just saw this. I noticed game room partnered with hyperspin. I'm hoping there is a close to all in one solution available where I can bring my equipment and make it somewhat affordable. I know I can just throw hyperspin on my pc and play games but would love to do an arcade cab.

I have no complaints with the Ultimarc guns. Once you get used to them they do the job just fine. I built the cab before Sinden released their guns and they only just recently became available. Not worth it for me to switch out after all the work I had to do to get them to work on my setup. As far as the coin door, I like the fact that there is distance from the control panel to the kickplate because when we play we are always on the matching bar stools. If there was not enough legroom you couldn't use the stools and I wouldn't want to be standing the hours upon hours that we play. And it's not that hard or an inconvenience at all to deposit the quarters with this cab setup my man. Maybe if your 90 and have extensive arthritis Lol

@@jaymarucci1945 I got the cab. Besides the usual GRS quality control issues it's fantastic. And you're right, coin door isn't bad at all, but I find myself hitting the coin button instead because the coin door novelty wears thin really fast. It's funny, because if you want to go for authenticity free play is actually what real arcades do these days. Coins haven't been a thing for many, many years. Aimtrak's are great. I have one. They actually take less tweaking than the Sinden's.

@@pdxmetal I wanted the coin door for "real feel" and looks but the fact that it functions is a huge plus. That's what I grew up with in the arcades as a kid. Hell I can change the programming on the Ipac 2 controller in a couple minutes with a few clicks of the laptop and allow the MAME front end to only take credits with quarters through the coin door and disable the credit buttons on the control panel. I have the coin door switches on their own designated "buttons" of the IPac2 controller. This way I can charge anyone who wants to play it LOL. I never really use the coin door.

Do you know how thick the acrylic glass is? Found some .25 inch on sale but wondering if it's too think.

@@raizt1596 The plexi is 1/8 inch thick.

Yes it will if you remove the control panel. I built the cab however in the same room its designated to be in which is now our Gameroom

I didn't get my control panel hardware at all from GRS. I got it all from Tmolding.com. Buttons work well. No issues.

All LED buttons are generics, no matter who you buy them from. They will all be inferior to genuine HAPP, Lorenzo, Sanwa or Seimitsu buttons. Game Room Solutions buttons are absolute trash. Avoid.

@@80skeys87 thanks after a year or so of having it, I agree.

@@bangovermedia LED's look nice but they don't respond as well. I had a full set of LED buttons, 24 to be exact, yanked them out and put plain ole boring HAPP's on there. Another reason is it takes 2X the freaking wire. It is so nice to have a clean, wire managed control panel again.

@@80skeys87 can recommend where to buy quality buttons and sticks. I'm in Canada. Thanks.

Room is a completely converted Gameroom. That cab build was first thing I did. Rooms been painted, new furniture, wall decor, full size shuffleboard table, fusball, 65" wall mounted TV with 5.1 surrounding bar, GRS Dartboard Cab, air hockey, and more

@@jaymarucci1945 looks dope, was just teasing. Well done sir!

Lol☺️

They did drop the ball in the making of the dartboard I ordered afterwards from them and errors in the finished product pertaining to the application of the graphics. Their communications also suffered. I made due. Was a bit disappointed however. They never corrected for me and opposite experience of handling this cab for me. Have yet to order VPIN from them so we will see.

Ever since Tina took over this place has gone from below average to avoid at all costs. The only reason they stay in business is because casual buyers don't know any better and there is nobody else competing with them directly.

Which new guns? There was only one company due to come out with that type of tech and wasn't yet available

@@jaymarucci1945 it wasn't available but now it is. I'll be adding that one to my game room solutions cabinet

@@outkast40 good for you. Then post the link sir and help others rather than bragging about

@@jaymarucci1945 woohoo I'm not bragging about something I don't have. The Sinden light guns have been talked about on every major arcade channel.

@@outkast40 who has them in stock and selling? There has been talk about these Sinden light guns for over a year and I see squat on them

Not even close. The control panel cutouts being the big difference. The MC cab isn't setup for trackball and spinner.

@@jaymarucci1945 yes it is.. u can use the trackball on the MC i seen it on there display

@@jrami223 go buy it then. I stood next to that cab in their store. It's nowhere near as impressive nor has the play capability or physical attributes included on this one I built.

@@jaymarucci1945 go buy it lmfao u butt hurt or something its the same.....

@@jrami223 it isn't. You can't get Ultimark Trackball in there my good man. Cutout has to be specific on the control panel. You can't get the 22 button configuration either. It's much more simplified cab than the GRS piece. The cab level of details isn't the same either. Speaker setup, plexiglass arrangement on monitor, etc. Alot of tidbits can't get into with you here. I saw the MC one as mentioned. It's NOT the same. The control panel setup, leg room, many things.

Toshiba Model:32L310U20. Its a 32" TV. Highly recommend this set as it powers on automatically out of the box when gets applied power from the power source. Alot of TV's dont do this and you have to go crazy to try and sort that out if you can find the secret code to get into the sets Service Menu to have function that way. Picture is great on this set and for retro arcade perfect as you don't need better than 720p.

Thank you! I just ordered my arcade cabinet yesterday. Thank you again!

@@damionsumlin4710 I picked it up brand new from Best Buy as an open box item for only $110. Great buy.

All new tv's should have a power mode that allows the tv to be turned on automatically. It may be in the service menu as you said but it should be a google search away. Otherwise, all you need is a smart power strip which will turn on everything else when you use the pc as the control.

About $2k originally with the Pi3B+ but then spent about another $750 more to upgrade to a current PC to run Hyperspin Spent more on that than I should because was originally going to use for a VPIN build that I decided not to do.

@@jaymarucci1945 thank you. This helps me to budget my build. I love everything you've done with this cabinet. It looks amazing.

@@raizt1596 your welcome

Yes Did you view my video? Mine has both

Not anywhere I am aware and to the degree of my build I've seen noone do. Other problem is the shipping of the complete unit. It would cost too much and too risky to get damaged. If anyone local to me wanted one done and had capability to picking it up I'd do it for $3800 complete as you see here. It takes a lot of time to do it correctly.

Ok thanks. I didn't realize these were that much. If I brought the pc and TV what would a base setup to be able to play these games on a full cabinet? It'd be nice to have the option to use traditional controllers but I get it that's extra cost.

@@gary1488 That's just what he'd charge. The cabinet/artwork/T-molding are about $850, add $109 for the trackball, your choice of spinner approximately $70-$80, your choice of buttons $45+, a few dollars for wiring/power strip and various odds and ends depending on what you want to do, $25-$40 for USB encoder(s), a $20 amp and speakers, led light for the marquee, and a monitor. It is safe to say you'll pay $900 for the cabinet/art/buttons before buying the monitor which you can get a decent 32" brand new for under $100 if you go Insignia. You do not need an expensive monitor for an arcade cabinet. 720p. And you don't need an amp or speakers either if you use a PC sound bar or 2.1 desktop speakers/sub. Your choice of Raspberry Pi or PC. Pi is limited and I recommend going PC. i5 slim by Dell/HP or build your own for about $300, less if you buy used. You can build this cabinet with a PC that will shred a Raspberry Pi in the $1,300 range.

@@pdxmetal thanks man. Yeah would love to have something like this but I'm just so busy with other things. I'll have to see if someone close to me builds these things.

@@gary1488 I wouldn't pay anyone to assemble a cabinet kit. I've paid shops to cut cabinets from plans but this is professional work, not turning a screwdriver and plugging things in. Just dedicate 30 mins a day, or even a few times a week. You can simplify a build considerably by using non led buttons, a slim PC already built, and using a 2.1 PC speaker combo instead of the speaker/amp method. Use a PC over Raspberry Pi; Pi's are weak, use antiquated versions of MAME and take a lot more configuration. Pi's are good for small builds with limited space (bartops, 3/4 scale) but a full size can accommodate a PC with ease. Trust me, you can do this. One more thing; don't do the socket switch where you cut the power strip and splice it. Just run the power strip directly to the wall. So, don't do this: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jZqGm86Y1pqudZs.html

View the video and you would know

to save you from a smart @$$ comment, he is using a pi 3b+ as he so nicely told someone else, but not you.

Yes a Pi 3B+ but now also in the process of upgrading to a PC version front end of Hyperspin/ Attract Mode. I will have the Pi hooked up so I can flip flop between both front ends with the flick of a few USB switches and the TV HDMI input when I get to finishing the PC version.

these cabs are a "bring your own electronics" deal. you can buy a Pi for it and use that, or some media PC. your choice.

jamma boards 😇

Jay said his took a "couple weeks" for shipping. i just ordered mine and it was at my door 8 days after i sent them my artwork. email replies were always same-day during the back-and-forth while i made the artwork. sounds like i got similar speeds if not better without promising to review the cab, so maybe don't leap to that kind of speculation.