Are you pumping from a well or a tank?

Whats what they all does. My landlord just throwed like 10 of this pumps. I managed to take one and trying to find a solution for most common problems.

@pashko90 Welcome aboard. The most common failures are loose bolts and loose retaining nut on the air valve.

Yes, especially the nut at the air valve, and the nuts holding the bladder in to the tank.

Welcome aboard!

Welcome aboard! Glad to have helped. I cost me a second pump to learn, but now I have a backup. Stayed tuned, I share my experiences to help others!

Thank you, Steve. Welcome aboard!

You bet! Thank you!

Yeah, that info already helped someone with the pressure problem.

Yes, down the line, I plan to add a larger pressure tank also.

@KarasCyborg Welcome aboard! Yes, and I have heard that many times from viewers. It is wrong. The idea of the check valve is to allow water into the pump from the source, but to stop that water from flowing back to the source when the pressure tank is full. If you install it on the outlet side, the pump can never build pressure in the tank. In a shallow well, the check valve is usually at the bottom of the well line, called a "foot valve". Without it, water would drain back into the well, leaving air in the line and loosing it's prime. Trust me when I say, the check valve goes on the inlet line with the flow arrow pointing towards the pump. Also, if you are in a freeze zone, protect the pump unit and check valve, and any length of pipe between the checkvalve and the pump

@@GBear Thank you Sir! Your knowledge helped me, your suggestion WORKED! I swapped the check-valve to stop back flow to the water SOURCE: An above ground 2500 gallon tank feeding this pump that is about 50 feet away. And now it works great. The Pump is not cycling on and off and pumping back into that tank like a forever enema. It builds pressure and cuts off like it should. I noticed that when I open up the full 1" (full port outlet valve) it might be able to supply a burst of high volume/high pressure for about 5 seconds, then it drops down to what the pump can continuously supply. I will have to see how it does with my irrigation system tomorrow. The goal was to keep that 2500 gallon above ground tank always fresh by using it for irrigation, so that if there is a water outage I can cut the house over to the tank pretty easily with a manifold I built. The instructions said: "have the pressure switch adjusted by a qualified technician." if the pump cycles on and off. What a bunch of Clueless Maroons whoever wrote the documentation for this unit. They don't even have a good diagram for inlet/outlet. The box identifies it wrong. There are no instructions on how to fill bladder pressure or adjust tank pressure switches. I'm truly disappointed with Hobo Freight on this one.

@KarasCyborg There's one other important issue not covered in the manual. On top of the pressure gauge there is a small rubber plug, and on top of that plug is a tiny nub. Use a razor blade to cut off that tiny nub.( Not the whole rubber plug) There's usually a label on the gauge itself instructing this, but it isn't anywhere in the book. The air pressure in the tank should be set at 25psi, and be sure to check and tighten the nut on the air valve, and all of the nuts on the outlet side of the tank. Also note that this tanked unit is not recommended for irrigation. The same company makes a "jet pump" without the tank for irrigation.

Live and learn on the homestead.

You're welcome.

Welcome aboard. Thanks

My German is a bit rusty. Bitte, sprechen zie English? I was last in Germany (Deutschland) in 1975. Danke!

@@GBear My english is nix good. I wrote to you: hey, old man 💪 thanks a lot for your time, that you spend us always. Today i‘d learn a lot. I‘m happy to See new Videos from g bear. Best regeards vom old man in Good old Germany. I live Since 10 jears minimalistic in an old Mercedes Benz. Its a previous mobile Bank brench. Eight meters long. Construction year 1992. I‘m really overjoyed to lead such a live.

@@AfFuss Se sind Wilkommen, und danke shon!

Thanks Keegan.

Guess you could. If they come loose again, I will try it.

@JSLantz Welcome aboard. The size (diameter) of the pipe affects volume of water. Pressure is determined by the pump and pressure tank. While 35psi is acceptable, 45-50 is desired in most cases. The air pressure in the pressure tank may be too low, or the pressure switch may need adjustment on your pump. Without actually seeing the setup for actual sizes of components, pipe composition, etc., it would be impossible for me to give you accurate guidance. Adjusting the pressure switch should be done by a qualified technician and the types of pipes, etc. have to be considered. I have seen poly tube used in long runs, and the water pressure is set low because poly tube isn't rated for 50psi.

I haven't hear of any pressure switches problems. As far as adding a larger pressure tank, that's on hold due to finances in this wonderful economy we've endured for over 3 years.

Welcome aboard!

​@@GBearI took a pump what I got and pressure switch did not look well. Contacts are all wear out and black. I think I would add solid state relay, they only like 10-20$ to take actual switching pressure from this pins. One of the wires start to melt too. And it looks like it's pretty common problem for this pumps.

@pashko90 I haven't encountered that situation yet, out of 3 pumps in 20 years.

@@GBear we having multiple properties in antelope valley order our umbrella and they all use same pumps. Sadly did not have a chance to inspect all of them, but few. That's what I see right now. I will check a torque on a expression tank screws, but I like your idea. If they are loose, my orange locktigh will gonna go on them.

The 23lbs air pressure only applies static pressure between the tank and the bladder to pressurize the stored water in the tank. Air pressure in the tank/bladder is not water pressure itself, but what creates the water pressure with an opposing force.

To maybe better explain, there is a rubber bladder inside the metal tank. That bladder holds water, not air pressure. The air pressure is between the metal tank and the bladder squeezing the bladder full of water and creating pressurized water, like a giant hand on the turkey baster bulb to jet the liquid out at a higher pressure than just draining out.

Yes, a check valve is needed, and it goes on the inlet side of the pump. I know, some people have said the instructions show it on the outlet side, but lets think about it... If you are connecting to a shallow well, it should already have a foot valve at the bottom of the well pipe. So apparently it goes on the inlet side. If you are drawing from a storage tank, like I am, you'll need to install a check valve on the inlet side of the pump lines. Be sure to place it where it won't freeze, if that is a possibility in your area. There will be an arrow on the check valve, and that should point towards the pump, not the supply tank. Welcome Aboard! Let me know if you need more info.

@@GBear Thankyou for your reply that was a lot of good information. I’m drawing from a 1000 gallon holding tank so I will put the check valve on the inlet side like you suggest . I will let you know how it goes .

@@Nctbgs I'm happy to have helped.

Not from here to there.

Me too.

👍🏜😉😀👍

I'm not sure, and can't measure it without disassembly. Before you order a bladder, 1. Check to make sure the nut holding the Schrader fitting for air, is tight. It seals the tank from air leaks. 2. Be sure that all the nuts on the flange side are tight too. Be sure not to over tighten, just very snug. Note: the bladder holds water, not air. The tank holds air, not water. 3. If the tank is corroded and rusty, it cannot hold air, and cannot be pressurized.

Welcome aboard!

@@GBear Howdy from, Where the Bluegrass Kisses the Mountains. Will subscribe! Mine was losing air pressure over a period of 3-4 months. Went recently to check on it and it had water coming out of the air valve when pressed. About to order one and found your video on Google search to check for correct size but you didn't take the bladder out in that video. Was hoping you had gotten a replacement bladder and know the correct size. Not sure how bladder seats around the clamping bolts. The replacement bladder doesn't appear to have bolt holes in them. Before disconnecting my setup I need know the correct size at that plate so can hopefully be a one day job and not have water longer than necessary. You should do a video on your backup tank and bladder replacement. Lol

@MountainTopRock Welcome aboard, thank you. Yeah water coming out of the valve means water inside the tank between the bladder and tank. On both of my pumps, it turned out to be an air leak from around the air valve, and just a slight tightening fixed them both. The bladder output side at the flange has bolt holes and the mouth of the bladder acts as the gasket. On the air valve side, there is a tab on the bladder that acts as a seal for the air valve side of the tank. Just to be sure, shut off the water coming to the pump, unplug the pump, drain all water from the system. Be sure the air valve is tight, as well as the bolts at the flange side, then pump the air pressure to 23PSI. Be careful if using compressed air as that comes fast, and leave a faucet open on the outlet side to force water out. If the tanks takes 23PSI, and holds it, the bladder is not bad. If the pressure drops immediately, the bladder or seals are bad. That could save you time and money. Good luck!

@@GBear The replacement bladder that pops up in search for those pumps doesn't have a seal at the air valve end that is the right size in liters. Another reason was hoping you had taken one out. May think about doing a video on it if I beat you do it. Lol

Yeah, one of them might be me.