Welcome aboard, Brandon! I'm always happy to help and answer questions.

You're welcome and welcome aboard! Let me know if you need more info.

Junk Bladder will go soon and be useless

You're welcome.

Thanks Gary. Yeah, I had my air conditioning on all day, just shut it off. The winds are cooling things down outside, so as soon as the sun sets I can open some windows and use natural air conditioning through the night.

Welcome aboard! And you're welcome.

Thanks Kevin. It's another hot one here, but not much wind.

@@GBear hello, what's the outlet silver part called?

Welcome aboard Alex! Sorry, I don't know what you are referring to. Please tell me the video name and date so I can see what silver part you are asking about.

Thank you

Thanks. Tonight's video just finished uploading after 4.5 hours.

Bummer about the pump. Great on the bigger cabin!

Thank you and welcome aboard!

Thanks and welcome aboard!

Welcome aboard! When I get a chance I'll confirm with my meter.

Welcome aboard, friend! I'm glad to have been of assistance!

Welcome aboard Ed! I don't have a well. That will all be covered in the next segment of the series.

Thanks Ryan! Welcome aboard!

Welcome aboard! That's good to hear! I own 2 of them, since I thought the first went bad, but I learned about loose screws on the bladder plates, so now I have a backup. Funny, I had bought one back in 1986 and never used it, but I sold it in a yard sale for a profit.

Thanks. Another day older and deeper in debt...

@@GBear tell me about it. And now i'm swaping my tankless water heater. I have one union fitting that keeps leaking.

Don't use unions with rubber seals for hot water. Be sure they are brass seat unions. Also, be sure the union is made of the same metal as your piping. Dissimilar metals cause electrolysis and the union will fail, unless dielectric couplers are used.

@@GBear I have all the right stuff. 3rd attempt and still leaks. The more muscle i put into it, the worst it gets.

Hmm, a union should seat without leaks when tightened without requiring Superman to do the tightening. Maybe eliminate the unions and use "Shark-bite" connectors?

My cabin, garage, and shops are all on the same solar and wind, and AIMS 4000 split phase inverter. I can work on power tools all day out there with no worries. My total system is 3450w solar and the 1850w wind turbine, which averages 200-500w in the afternoons when the winds come up.

Welcome aboard. The pump and pipes need to be protected from prolonged freezing temperatures. Draining is a last resort. Burying the water lines below frost level and placing the pump in a semi-heated room is good practice. Some people out here build insulated boxes around the pump, and get by with just that. Of course, we don't get weeks of beliw freezing temps here, maybe a few days tops.

Welcome aboard! There are 2 pressures to adjust. Bladder pressure by unscrewing the black cap from the back of the tank and using a bicycle pump to get the recommended psi. The second is trickier and should only be performed by a qualifed person. It requires removing the cover on the pressure switch and adjusting at the switch. The second adjustment is usually factory set at standard household pressure and should not require further adjustments. You say your gauge reads 55psi, but there is no pressure in the lines? First, do you have the inline check valve installed properly? It belongs on the inlet line with the arrow pointing towards the pump. I had one guy tell me his instructions showed it on the outlet line, and that would be wrong.

Call 800-444-3353 for parts. Have the pump item number ready. Note that their parts list has changed and some parts are no.longer available, but they can sometimes refer you to someplace that still carries them.

Welcome aboard.

I called them and they do not offer the bladder anymore. Turns out my pump wasn't broken - the check valve right before the inlet of the pump had cracked, so it couldn't hold pressure and would keep running.

@paperslammer cool! Did they help you with that on the phone?

You're welcome.

Welcome aboard, yeah, the manual also said to put the check valve in the output side of the pump. I think I know this pump better than HF does, lol.

@@GBear sounds like you should be on the other end of the 888 number they give in the manual. God bless brother, thanks for the quick reply!

@@RedTorchFarm Yeah, I need to contact them about a collaboration and G Bear's Tech Support...

No, finances got in the way. It's still in the plans though.

Welcome aboard!

It plugs into a standard 120v, 20A outlet, but don't put it on a circuit that has other high draw items on it. The pump has a high draw on startup.

Hi Marcus, welcome aboard! First, I must ask, WHY an R.O. system? They waste a gallon of water to provide you with 5 gallons of filtered water, they are bulky and use a lot of space, and require excessive pressure to function properly. Consider a Multi-Pur system instead. It removes contaminants down to a half micron, is slighly larger than a 1# coffee can, and easy to install. I sold these for years, and stand by their top secret compressed carbon block technology! Click the link below to check them out, and I recommend that you buy the one with the full installation kit and faucet. qualitywaterfilters4you.com/products/copy-of-multipure-mp750-aquaversa-water-filter?currency=USD&variant=31180894044225&Google%20Shopping&gclid=CjwKCAjwq-WgBhBMEiwAzKSH6EanXbVXyhPyJhslvHCDl6d7mTqclr9IG7AKhft5thWSi2uElAkeGRoC2u8QAvD_BwE

@@GBear I already have the RO system installed in my basement supplying water to my refrigerator water line (which also runs in the basement). In an emergency scenario the plan was to connect the 300 gallon IBC water tote to a shallow well pump (running on a generator), connect that shallow well pump to my RO supply line, run the waste water line back to the IBC tote, disconnect RO from refrigerator supply line and voilà I have RO water ready to drink from the IBC tote. That filter you linked costs more than my entire RO system. I don't think that filter provides the osmotic action needed to remove contaminants like an RO system does. Plus my RO system remineralizes the water as well.

Well, I guess you are sold on RO. As far as increasing the pressure on the Harbor freight shallow well pump, yes it can be done, but I'm not sure it can safely go as high as you want it to. That is something you need to ask the techs at Harbor freight. You can get the phone # from the store manager, or www.harborfreight.com/parts

Welcome aboard. I never checked those draws, but will and post it in a video.

@@GBear Sounds good thank you!

Welcome aboard. Unfortunately, Harbor Freight does not carry replacements for the well pump anymore. Are you sure yours needs replacement? Try shutting off the water input, unplug the pump and drain the pump and tank completely. Then, using a hand powered air pump, add 23PSI into the bladder, via the air fitting under the black plastic cover on the rear of the tank. DO NOT USE AN AIR COMPRESSOR UNLESS YOU CAN SET IT TO NOT EXCEED 23PSI. Let it sit for about 15-20 minutes and check the pressure with a tire pressure gauge. If it has dropped, the bladder is bad, but if it remains at 23psi, it was just atmospheric pressure, shrinking due to cooler temps.

great i will give that a try. keep up the good work

@@reginaldhumphrey2406 If the bladder turns out to be bad, let me know, and I will offer alternatives.

Dont replace. Remove the tank. Simple as that.

@elcomandante9299 these pumps are not designed for continuous run.

Welcome aboard! I'll have to double check that, but I think it's head lift is around 115ft.

Ok, I checked, and was correct. 115.5ft head lift for this pump.

Welcome aboard Jim! Good tip on the bladder, thanks. The tank is supposed to be stainless steel, but you are right, Chinese stainless is known to rust. I dried it out well. For the threads I used teflon tape AND Tru-blue thread sealant.

@@GBear unfortunately, the only thing stainless steel is the cover over the pump. The internals of the pump are all plastic.

@@jimalexander7004 sounds like you've had it apart.

@@GBear I'm on my 4th one. They are inexpensive and work fairly well.

I'm thinking of keeping the pump and buying a larger pressure tank in the future

Welcome aboard! The sprinkler pump doesn't have a pressure tank. The pressure tank would cause sprinklers to run (stay on) past the shutoff time, until the bladder was empty, and would continue to cycle if there was a small leak in the system.

@@GBear thank you! So it would be okay to have pressure from the spigot on a shallow well? I assume transfer pumps you cant have pressure like the other two pumps mentioned above? The three are kinda confusing and I don’t wanna burn any up if I were to get one

For a shallow well, the one in my video works well. A few things to note, it only works for wells under 35 feet deep. It also requires a 'foot valve' in the feed pipe, at the bottom, inside the well. Before turning it in for the first time, you will need to prime it by filling the pipe from the pump to the bottom of the well pipe, or it won't pressurize. Also, be sure all faucets are turned off.

Welcome aboard! Are you sure it needs replacement? I had 2 that I thought the bladder was bad and discovered what it really was. I'll do a video for you tomorrow on what to check and do before buying a bladder replacement you don't need.

Going to shoot that video for you in a few minutes and upload it at lunch break. Stay tuned!

It's wrong. The check valve prevents pressure from releasing back to the source. Your faucets prevent pressure loss through the outlet side.

Welcome aboard. Thanks.

I'm trying to find which video you are referring to.

Ok, shallow well pump. So, to verify, you have it connected to a water source, with a check valve on the input pipe, and you plugged it in to a 120vac electrical plug, and nothing happens?

I have the same problem periodically

Hmmm, I don't have a lighted switch on my pump.

Welcome aboard! Both are 1 inch.

Not a good choice for your needs. It will constantly cycle on and off causing electrical surges. Harbor Freight also sells a "jet pump" which is this same pump and motor, without the tank. That one would better suit your needs.

@@GBear you mean I don't need the tank at all? I got it last Spring but couldn't complete the shallow well as expected. Now ready to install, maybe I just take the tank off? I thought the tank's purpose is to reduce the on and off cycle.

@helenzhu8331 Yes the tank reduces the on/off cycle by pressurizing between a check valve and the faucets when off. It is used to get pressurized water from a shallow well, or water tank to a house or cabin. You said you wanted to fill a fish pond without using a garden hose. The pump in my video uses a 1 inch pipe in and 1inch pipe out and is designed to supply pressurized water to a cabin or house, not to transfer water from a storage tank to a pond.

I do plan using garden hose to water the garden as well although filling the pond is a main job of this shallwell, but if the water good enough I would also like to provide for drinking, but I'm not sure because its only 16 ft deep can't go further. So I should still try to use it...? maybe experiment it, may try to connect to a larger tank later... And its planned to install it as a system including check valve and well screen at the bottom.

@@GBear Thank you for your responses. I'll let you know the result of this work!

Yes. It needs a check valve installed on the inlet side of the pump. (I heard the instructions say outlet side) It goes on the inlet line with the arrow facing the pump.

@@GBear I got that a moment ago from your follow-up video. Thanks!

@ChristofBove great! Yes, if draining from a shallow well, the check valve is usually at the bottom of the wellpipe, so the water doesn't gravitate back down. (Called a footvalve) If drawing from a storage tank, the valve need to be on the inlet pipe to the pump, so when the pump tank and lines to the cabin are full, the pressure can't release back to the tank.

@@ChristofBove Welcome aboard!

@@GBear Mystery solved. Pulling from a tank, so the pressure was then pushing the water bank into the tank. When you're doing these things for the first time, the obvious ain't so clear! (I did check all the bolt, fitting, etc. for pressure loss as well. HF now recommends that bladder pressure be set at 28psi, which I did, and apparently you can recheck and re-pressurize after pump is primed.)

Welcome aboard. Im not sure what uou are asking, please be more specific.

@@GBear what might be the reason the pressure switch might be turning off the water

@SHINONOTENSHI Well, as it implies, pressure causes the switch to activate. So, if you haven't tampered with the adjustment, then there must be something else causing the pressure in the line. I can only guess at what it could be without actually being there to run diagnostic tests. 1. Was it working fine, then started doing this? 2. Do you have a sediment filter in line 'before' the pump? 3. Also, do you have a check valve between the water source and the pump? Is it drawing from a shallow well or a storage tank?

@@GBear ita drawing from a sallow well and it was working fine before this it just started after I had to turn it off to replace the valve for the shower

@SHINONOTENSHI Ok, so it has a check valve (Foot valve) in the well, and do you have a sediment filter inline, before the pump?

See my last reply.

The video of July 1, 2022. That well pump. Were the red cap on top of it. That whole body part. Thanks.

Ok, found it. The top silver thing is the pump housing. The silver plate on the tank is the bladder plate.

That is the pump housing with the inlet/outlet and pressure valve on it.

@@GBear the biggest round one is the housing part. Above the tank

The bladder only applies pressure indirectly.

@@GBear think I can inflate the bladder to 28 psi?

@elcomandante9299 yes, that is the new accepted pressure. I didn't, because it works well as is. Remember, just like car tires, ambient temperature affects air pressure. As with car tires, check pressure when temperature isn't too hot or too cold.

Thanks

Thanks, I think my current setup is working just fine. I can't afford the igloo house. Food is a higher priority.

Welcome aboard! I never really checked for accuracy, but on about 35, off at 45 or 50? I'll verify if you want.

@GBear that's what I was looking for. Thank you sir.

You're welcome.

@GBear that's ok I just did not want to use my dad's 2hp pump way to much for what I need. I also went tiny house 16x52 2 story

@chadbrailer643 nice! The only downside of the HF pump is the small pressure tank causes the pump to run more. I will be modifying my pump to a larger pressure tank so it cycles less, but I'm waiting for some money to come.

It should have come from the store with the air in it already, to within a pound or two. Do you have a video of the connections and such?

@@GBear There is 0 registered on the gauge. I don't have a video. Just want to take a shower and do laundry and can't get it working

Does the pump run at all?

It says 1 put water in and 2. Put air...but video says other way.

@GBear it turned on but without air pressure don't want to ruin something so I unplugged it

Thanks and welcome aboard!

It works, though. Not the best, but decent for the price.

Absolute junk

Been using mine heavy for 3 years now works good

It definitely works!

That was helpful.