gr8 video as usual, was wondering if u could tell me make of oscilloscope u used in amiga video

Dooklink made a custom firmware for the gbs that gets rid of interlacing

Also there is a component out mod but I didn't do that. Just forced 720p out over VGA into a non scaling vga2hdmi

Hi there, a lot of thanks for pointing us at this board. I just got mine. One thing you should know is that the connector behind the VGA input is DIRECTLY connected to the VGA in. Meaning R,G,B and composite sync...you should use a VGA cable, and only chop off one end of the cable and replace it with an Amiga 23 pin connector. Much nicer than using that white plastic plug. My A1000 now goes straight into the VGA input.

What is the best (if money does not matter) alternative?

Thanks Wiggy yes it's hard to show the noise but the side by side didn't leave me in any doubt about its success

Thats very kind thank you sir

You are most welcome Morten, I'm glad it helped you

I'm thinking mounting it inside a copper lined lunchbox would be a super cheap next step for protection of the device as much as anything.

You can get much nicer boxes from an electrical wholesalers for a few quid. Just applied the fix mentioned here and it works much better. Thanks for that.

Also. I think I am going to fix mine on the back of my monitor using the holes that are used to fix it on a wall bracket.

If you like a mollusc in your miggy then this isn't the mod for you

RetroManCave On a more serious note. Have any members of the Amiga community considered reverse engineering this (or obtaining schematics) to build the improvements in to the board? Or has it been done and these are some of the more expensive options you mentioned?

There are a few people working on it (see links in description). Some have gone so far as to hook up an Arduino to it to alter its behaviour. It makes for interesting reading and there is some great technical work happening on it, but this was more of a practical approach with a cost balance. I hope to get a more "premium" product soon to make comparisons.

Hah I'm glad it wasn't just me, it seemed like the logical thing to do but evidently not!

RetroManCave it most likely added extra capacitance between the traces and let them couple noise between each other.

@@jakewilkes7610 what if you connect the copper to ground? It's left floating now.

Xalalalala Attic Treats hehe thanks. If I get an older PC or a CGA card for my 486 I'll be sure to capture some Alley Cat. Mmmm magenta!

RetroManCave thanks 😉 I really love cyan and magenta 😂 Well now I'll use my GBS for sure with the Amiga and with my CGA computers eventually! 👍

Wondering if you ever got around to this, I recently bought an Amstrad PPC640 the "portable" with the crappy 9 inch 1980's LCD however it has a CGA out, I have seen some people try this with a revision of that board but they failed, however they did not seem to understand the kit as well as you, would be handy to know if it would work.

That sounds fun do you have a blog or any info?

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pdyUf6yazLucmac.html here is a video demo and there is a link on the description. Sorry my phone is not so good recording screens :(

Project Geek I'm on the lookout for one in the dumpster 😁 that or a copper lined lunchbox

RetroManCave A lunch box could be a great mod!

Thundercats, Pole Position or Transformers?

RetroManCave Ooh tough call, but Transformers were the bee's knees.

Is there any place has a LBB for this thing? Also, how well does an ST do through this with its strange High & low/med resolutions? Or even a Beeb? A very interesting video as always!

Yes I should have shown this really. The plastic casing I lined with copper tape and grounded which in turn I attached the cable shielding to

The old cable had to be hacked up to create the new one unfortunately. In the case of the Amiga you'd want to make up a cable with the resistor on anyway so you might as well make both. I'd be interested to hear how others get on trying the copper tape on other systems like arcades/neo geo and if it makes a difference for them

Yes I know what you mean and that still appears. I'd like to try some other upscalers and see if it happens on them also. I don't think we can fix it with tape 😁

This is an artifact of the board applying de-interlacing to a progressive source. Some people are using raspberry Pis or Arduinos to control the video processor chip directly and turn it off. (among other things) Maybe some day they'll figure out how to flash and overwrite the junk firmware directly instead of grafting another device on to bypass it.

It would be interesting to see, although I think if latency is a real concern to a degree more than "it feels about right and I can enjoy playing games on it" you're likely to be willing to spend a bit more than £15 on a solution. I hope to get hold of some more premium converters in the future and will run side by side comparisons when I do.

RetroManCave My Life in Gaming did a latency test on the device. It was about 1-2 frames.

That sounds mildly average really doesn't it. Another reason not to spend too much time or effort on it for anything more than some casual gaming, although I've enjoyed fast paced games like Kick Off 2 without any issue.

Gary Broadhead one end needs to be DB23 the other to go into the gbs board. I tried it via the vga input on the gbs board but no luck it needs to use the other input with the included cable

RetroManCave I can input via the vga or the header. I have noticed that not all the boards are created to the same quality level.

That was ebay! I guess I got lucky that day

I did and I didn't. When I grounded it I found I had some noise again so I broke the connection and had it floating. Others I know have grounded it with no noise so I'd say try both and see what works for you. I grounded the cable shielding also.

RetroManCave wondering now if the copper on just the board itself would be the only thing needed to be done in the 1st place?

I have an ossc on loan next weekend so I'll find out soon!

RetroManCave Another video?

It will be used to showcase a system and some live streaming yes

Yes I've mentioned that in my pinned comment. That was just where I had been messing around with the brightness/contrast/saturation on the GBS menu and not a result of any mods

RetroManCave 👍

I don't know what your GBZ looks like on the inside, but i think it's more likely to be a case of component or cable damage that needs to be repaired rather than something that can be helped with a bit of extra shielding, but you'll only know for certain after you try. What screen do you use and what connection between screen and zero do you use? composite or parallel?

I see what you mean. I haven't tried this so can't vouch for if it will work but you could look into something like an RGB splitter sending one signal to your CRT and the other to your scaler/sync converter. Take a look at RGB Distribution Amplifiers.

Bit late now....I have a Indivision ecs on pre order.

Amiga Dude Furia A600 did you ever get your ordered preinvison board?

Kevin Jones keep breaking things until they break less :D also do check out other channels I mention in videos there are loads of people I look up to on YT and learn lots from

Yskar Nebula it will take an RGB input but not composite. You might be better off with a hdmi upscaler it depends on what monitor you want to use

RetroManCave i saw those yuv composite and i taught they were used for imput and the RGB for output. And i intend to use an monitor with RGB imput just like yours. (And sorry for the bad English, im Brazilian) Good CRT tvs are quite rare nowdays on Brazil, and well preserved old CRT monitors are way more common.

Some people on here have commented that they have used the VGA input. I tried it before using the header cable and it didn't work for me, so I cut the end off and used the header cable. The RGB POTS on the board also don't function for the VGA input and only with the header input so that's a small advantage.

@@RMCRetro I had no luck either trying to connect using the VGA input at first. BUT, very recently I did the GBS-Control mod. It does work for me using the VGA input now. I combine it with a buffered DB23 to VGA adapter. Really excellent image quality, with no perceptible lag. I tried to hook it up first using the RGBS pins above the VGA connector (including an 680 resistor on CSYNC), but I got a slight but annoying interference pattern.

@@bennybil3551 Hey man, I also have the same setup using GBS-control. I wanted to start using the VGA input to the board also and I made myself a cable using VGA cable and then soldering and Amiga RGB connector to the other end and using the 680ohm resistor in the c-sync. It works, but not in a good way, I get insane looking vertical lines now. So do you think it cannot be done by cable alone and I need an adapter? I only thought buffered adapters where needed is say you were plugging directly into a monitor (no GBS 8220)? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated :)

I found that I had to have very close contact with the copper tape flush to the pcb for the effect

Because it's not external interference that's the issue, it's crosstalk between the lines, that a little bit of capacitance that the tape introduces sufficiently suppresses.

Siana Gearz ah, I didn't think of that. So if they used a 3 or 4 layer pcb and ran the signals on the internal layers with ground fill on the outer layers.

4 layer is indeed often done specifically for crosstalk suppression and EMI reasons. Normally you flood the inner layers with fill, and they sit on a relatively thick core quite close to the surface, and route your signal and data on the outer layers and it usually works just as well but is much more reliable to manufacture and easier to test and inspect! The ground goes component side inner layer and the vcc fill goes opposite side inner layer. Additionally whatever place you have left over on the surface, you via stitch it to the ground layer. You can also stick some separators into a noisy bus and stitch them through. Remember when they introduced 80-conductor IDE cables to improve reliability and push frequencies beyond 33 MHz? It simply had a ground wire between each signal wire.

Many thanks for the link, I had avoided buying one of these devices due to the reported issues with 50Hz input and output but that project looks like it can fix the input problems and provide a 576p50 output.

No problem man :)

I did and I got nothing from it

HD15 (vga) works with csync on pin13. Just select right mode

PCTonttu hmm no joy. I may have another play some time but it works, and you can't use the adjustment pots through the vga port (apparantly)

RetroManCave sorry i wasn't specific and quite blunt. The head you plugged your cable into looked to share traces with the vga port next to it. Thought it might be possible to bypass rewiring one end of the cable.

give it a try, if you place some tape on the traces and apply pressure without taking the backing off the tape you should soon have an idea, just be careful not to knock component legs poking through the board and short them.

Before I do I will look if I actually need it. When do you plan to look at your MVS-2 ? I made my own bartop based on a Neo Geo with a real MVS-4 slot and also replicated the mini marquee system with an arduino so it shows what game is selected.

That sounds cool. I hope to look at it soon as I now have a replacement bios and some other bits to investigate

A Unibios ? the caps on the sound section are known to go bad, cartridge slots can also have problems. It's best to test with no cartridge and look for the white boxes at first.

Yes I have a Unibios. Current problem is the well known Calendar problem but the Unibios should let me get past that and delve deeper

www.display-stands-uk.com/contents/en-uk/p1622.html

RetroManCave thank you!

Website seems to not work now