For low mode or inverted camera you need to rebalance it. It's not a hard thing to do and I use it in Low mode all the time, but doing it while you're rolling isn't going to be the smoothest and isn't recommended, though you could balance it in a way that helps. If you're unfamiliar with a steadicam, you need to look up videos on steadicam operation, or buy a copy of the steadicam operator's handbook, to get a better idea of what it can do. It's not a tool that comes easy.

@@mattiasalegro oh yeah, i already know lol. I just wondered if it could spin, i've seen the different moves on bigger sets. this would be to support my bigger rig(which is honestly just for my indie films/passion projects) and primarily just get standard smooth shots when I don't won't to break it down for the ronin s, this seems like it'll do that at the least just fine. Would you recommend it for getting those tradition tracking shots?

@@The11thPower this wouldn't spin or roll like the Arri Trinity or similar would. Though if you mounted an electronic gimbal to this and balanced neutrally you could achieve the effect. I think this is great for all types of camera movements, including tracking. I've done quite a few projects on this and it gets me what I want, but is just a huge learning curve.

@@mattiasalegro thanks for the info and I can imagine. Even dating back to glidecams in general , i think gimbals grew popular just from the ease of use alone. These steadicams are known to be difficult for sure. I’ve seen people connect the RS2, I’ll have to look into using it with the S. But mainly I want it just for stable shots at the least

I'm testing that next but still not a fan of the gimbal look.

Just bought vest, arm, flycam stabiliser from another low budget brand, and added some mounting and power supply to get my RS2 attached to it. I was surprised, if not shocked, how tricky things get when adding the RS2. It is because you add more dimensions for movement and going post upright is totally different from going briefcase. So, I remounted all RS2 stuff again and started learning native steadycam first which is already lots of fun.

The trinity is an awesome device that allows people to get camera movement they never could before, just like a steadicam. As for the Tilta Float, I think it's also decent, but it's also meant for use with a specific electronic gimbal, and considering that, you're spending money for both, and I'm not sure it's worth the cost. For a Ronin S2 couldn't you also just get a similar response from attaching a longer handle to the thing? Again, I don't like or use many electronic gimbals so I am unsure if it's worth it. With only a 10KG payload limit for that arm, you're looking at using smaller cameras anyway, and if that's the case, you don't really need the entire system to get the look you're going for, in my opinion. I could attach a ronin or similar to this, if I wanted (and was going to test at some point) or you could easily attach the same ronin to a glidecam or flycam without having to spend as much here. Honestly it's a lot to consider but those are so new it's hard to know for sure if it's worth it. If you like electronic gimbals, then spend your money on those, but if you like steadicam, then spend money on that. Trying to combine both seems like a waste; except when it comes to the trinity, which is meant for heavier and more robust cameras, like the arri alexa, and gives you much more control over the gimbal than you otherwise would with a payload like that.

So far the only thing that I find trouble with is the vest and arm. The vest being that I'm a smaller frame person and there's only so much I can tighten the straps, but once I find a decent fit it's not bad. The arm springs aren't the easiest to adjust, but I plan on getting some wd40 or something to maybe loosen up the tightening mechanism. So far the few chances I've had to use it (obviously limited opportunities because of Covid) it's just been me getting the experience. Balancing and everything is still the same as any other stabilizer or steadicam, and it seems like it'll hold up. Since I'm still learning I can't give much more feedback than that, considering I can't tell the difference between a problem with the product vs operator error or still trying to get better at having a well balanced sled. I can say that I'm getting used to it and loving the opportunities it has opened up for me.

Sorry for the late reply. I definitely plan on doing a followup once I get more practice in on set.

@@mattiasalegro Yes, I've heard that about the vest and see some people customizing it to fit better. What arm springs do you have? I see they have two options of the arm springs, for lighter & heavier loads. I would need the heavier load model spring. Thanks again for the info! Hoping to pick it up soon.

@@tjpenton i have the heavier. And it does the job for sure.

The arm is supposed to be rated for that limit but if you're already at 30lbs without additional batteries or monitors on the bottom of the sled to counterbalance I wouldn't risk it. This might be able to handle it without issue, but I can't say for sure. For this you'd be safer with something from tiffen

Is the 30 pounds of your rig include the battery on the Alexa?

not if your rig weighs 2kg+ n you gotta shoot all day with weak spaghetti arms like mine

as a owner of a full blown anamorphic setup i will always go with a vest and arm :)

@@menard.dop.84 yeah I'm pretty sure when using a big camera having a vest and arm is a must.

Ah man. You sure? I thought for sure it was a yes.