Good luck! I think this is the only video I have made so far lol

So experts charging you to fix your truck is screwing you over?

@@manworksgarage . . . If you have never been screwed over by a mechanic shop you may just not realize it. My 1st diesel was a 1983 6.2 cross over. I had a problem of it only being able to run about 35 mph. Everyone I talked to said it was an injector pump . About a $1500 fix at the time. I knew a lot of people that had been through the same thing and still didn't fix their truck so I went to about 10 different shops until the last one. The guy said people were just ripping people off , He put a new pvc valve in mine , didn't charge me anything . He said come see me when we have a real problem . . . . I got Lucky ! A lot of my friends didn't . I can tell you lots of other stories of friends getting screwed over by mostly dealerships ! There are some good guys out there and there are some that will take you for what they can get. . . . same as any other business. So don't be so pious !

@WH I'm saying not everybody out there it's screwing you over and if you don't know something you have to pay an expert to do it experts mechanics that Fix trucks aren't all screwing people over

@@wh8085 Mine and others years of experience is worth something and if you don't like it don't go there fix it yourself

I am sorry to hear about your bad experience, this video is certainly not and end all be all guide but I hope it helps you!

Then replace it with the correct pump . That is if he even replaced the old one. Something smells fishy.

There are ALOT of bad mechanics out there. I learned to fix my own 6.0. I already fixed 2 more trucks. I fixed a truck that a mechanic messed all up, injectors loose, loose bolts.

Good luck!

did you by chance find out what it was because mines doing the same thing unfortunately

@@castmasterlures . . . . Did you get yours figured out ? I just bought a "04 6L . Started and ran like a Champ for two days , next day wouldn't start ! Crap ! Sounds like these engines are to complicated. Been driving Cummins for years and never had a problem. Got a guy coming to look at mine . If it costs a lot to fix , I'm gonna check to see how complicated it will be to put a 5.9 Cummins in this F-250 ! Anyone have any Idea if that is doable ? Thanks !

What the H@#$ is going on so today I tried to start the truck and the batteries started getting weak ,so I put my battery charger on , while I was going to writing down info from your video . Went out and was going to see what my numbers where going to be when I tried to start it. And it started after a about 10-15 of seconds cranking it ?

Batteries are very important, I feel you!

Im sorry but the spelling and wording was very confusing, from what I can hear it sounds like you may just have weak batteries.

Same here changed out my starter and solenoid and icp plug seen this videos comments someone said check ya battery terminals ya JACKASS there she was my special L terminal cracked in half completely behind the battery Surprises before Christmas 😅

Where exactly?

@@sauce_joey8915 Google it...but if memory serves me correctly, front and slightly left between the manifolds. Should be a two-wire connector in the top of the sensor.

Thanks hope you find it useful! Tell your 6.0 friends 😛

Do you have any codes? Could be injectors going out, air in your fuel or glow plug issues, have to test things and watch data to find out.

You just gave a list of things you replaced, you didnt give any list at all on what you can confirm the truck is or isnt getting to start. That is the backwards wrong way to think about diagnosing a problem, any problem. Cant tell you how many bad parts I have gotten out of the box, how many wrong repairs I made before I learned and how many times I have to fix things now that other people threw the parts cannon at. Slow down and relax, go back to the basics and figure out what you do and dont have that the engine needs to start. You could have simply even forgotten to plug in the crank sensor, or maybe its somethng else or a bad part you got but no one will know until someone actually goes in and diagnoses it properly, which this video was intended to at least give some help on although it doesnt and never could cover everything.

Passenger valve cover is harder to remove but its still the same engine. Some things are easier to get to because of the access from the back others are harder its all a trade off

This video can help point you in the right direction of things to check, if its pumping out black smoke it sounds like the injectors are probably firing. These need to be on a battery jumper usually when opening the HPOP system but it doesn't sound like you guys had to do that with the repairs you listed.

Have you tested your fuel pressure? At the fuel bowl?

Any helpful ideas on where to start

Does it start when plugged in? I recently had my injectors replaced and mine won't start unless plugged in

Nah the 6.0 does not have an oil reservoir and the system is very different from the 7.3.

That is not the same as the problem as what is happening in this video, you have an electrical issue sounds like might be an ignition switch or related item. If you dont know how to test and diagnose it find a local mechanic you trust.

Sounds like an electronic issue, make sure your batteries are fully connected and check your grounds and harnesses.

You probably have an aftermarket fuel cab

@@towtrucka1306 I'm guessing you mean "CAP". NOPE..it is the stock cap. I've owned the truck since new...bought it in VERY early 07 or maybe even in very late 06.if it is an aftermarket one, someone snuck into my yard in the middle of the night some evening, broke into my truck so they could pop the hood and changed it. Don't know, otherwise, how it could be not the original one? The oil filter, on the other hand DOES have an aftermarket cap on it made of aluminum...I KNOW that because I did change it.

All Im gonna say is I have been doing this and working on 6.0's a long time and I have NEVER seen a 22mm fuel filter cap. You have an aftermarket setup of some sort if what you are saying is true. Either way who cares just grab whatever socket you need and take it off.

@@GearHeadsGarageChannel Been a while for me working on these things, too. I was just out in the yard doing some stuff and, after you guys all being so sure that thing is 24mm, I had to take a look. And, guess what? It actually IS a 24mm!! I may have either misread it, had too many tools in my hands or just plain old been hitting the tequila too hard lately and remember it wrong. I'm not losing any sleep over it, but curiosity finally got the better of me and I had to look. I handle so many tools every day that it is just about impossible for me to remember each and every one all up close and personal!! In any case, this CRS crap is NOT what I'd been hoping for all my life.....I guess I just gotta say ----MY BAD----!!

SOUNDS LIKE!!!!!!! YOU!!!!!!!!!!!! ARE!!!!!!!!!!!! WAY SMARTER THAN!!!!!!! HIM WITH HOW YOU SHOUT!!!!!!!!

The blue spring upgrade is worth doing and doesnt even cost what an oil change does so idk why that wouldnt have been done already if you both know about it. As for intermittent starts it could be the pump or something else but without proper testing and catching something going wrong it wouldnt be great to just throw parts at it.

@@GearHeadsGarageChannel I recently stumbled across this blue spring upgrade,,,it seems people are upgrading with tuners,deletes, big tires,and black smoke.lol.as my brother and I are more hd diesel techs.

dont know off the top of my head what .24 volts is but .24 doesnt sound like 950. If you can verify you have 950 then you have a problem elsewhere. I mentioned watching for FICM Sync etc as well. Also if it is the 04.5+ or so then try unplugging your icp sensor. An HPOP no start issue will present with less than 500psi, so first make sure your data is correct and if it is then look elsewhere.

I got the same problem. I'm still chasing the issue.. one day, i get clatter, but then it sounds like only one.. but then the next day, no clatter at all. pressures are good all syncing.. fuel pump kicks on.. voltages seem ok, but the amperage draw seems very high with the key on. no injector clatter...

Look up Diesel Tech Ron Channel on KZfaq. He has everything you need to know.

You would have found that if you tested and searched for the leak properly. Assuming anything is not the proper way to go about repairs. The whole point of this video is to show different ways to diagnose the problem, it is not an end all be all obviously the video isnt hours long but the point is dont guess.

Its gonna be something simple. Bad battery, bad ground or bad relay etc. Cant test it for you over the internet, this video was about diagnosing crank no starts and I hope it helps some people with that issue, but it is not the same issue you are experiencing.

My recommendation is get a temporary personal subscription to AllData or similar or buy a factory service manual and you will have access to all you need.

If you ran out of fuel but the bowl is full then you might have killed your injectors. But you NEED to have a charger at your house because if you ran it dry and got air in the system it can take quite a bit of cranking to get it to start.

A charger as in batteries charger?I took both of them to o Reilly’s they’re charging me now And also I had another fellow mechanic use his snap on scanner and it said 1 fuel injector circuit low

Get your batteries tested? Owned my 6.0L for 17 years. Every 3 years no matter battery brand we find at least 1 cell is bad on the batteries. Glow plugs and using the block heater also help in winter. We use Amsoil and our truck has over 420k miles and cranks reliably. Love my 6.0!

@@littlefinkle7757 . . . . That's a good testimony , thanks for posting . What weight Amsol are you using ? I have a friend that has started selling it so I may try it. I just bought a 2004 6.0 F250 a week ago. Started fine and run like a scalded dog. Two days ago it just wouldn't start any more. Turns over fine. Not Good for my 1st 6.0 experience. I'm thinking I screwed up buy this truck but your story gives me a little hope ! The guy I bought it from says he will come give it a look. Fingers crossed ! 8 )

@@wh8085 10W 30 . We live in MS so we rarely get below 25 in winter. We bullet proofed our 6.0L when it had about 24k on it.

@@littlefinkle7757 . . .Thanks for the reply. I'm in Oklahoma .Usually not real severe winters here . What do I need to do to " Bullet Proof this one. It has 110,000 on the odometer. I'm hoping I can get some service out of this truck. I bought it for the 8' bed to carry a slide in truck camper. Hoping it works out ! Thanks !

Until I shut it off then need starting fluid to fire it back up. I’m at a loss of what to do. I’ve been a mechanic for 40 years but not diesel. I brought it to a diesel shop and he ripped me off like you wouldn’t believe!!!! I broke my back and hip, so I can’t really lay over the core support for very long. ANY info you could recommend would be greatly appreciated. I will also pay you for a walk though onlinePhone etc.. to get this problem resolved! I need my truck running perfectly cause Im heading South wit a loaded trailer pretty soon. Im from NH

Part of the issue here is assuming you are getting ripped off. I have no idea if the shop you went to is a good shop or not, but no matter what diesel repairs are expensive. The fact that you have been a mechanic for 40 years and cant figure it out should tell you that whoever DOES figure it out is probably going to be worth a pretty penny. Also if you actually are a mechanic then why the hell do you not own a decent scanner? These days there are so many options for affordable powerful scan tools, hell Forscan is free and will do almost anything you need. As for what you are describing, it sounds like a HPOP pressure issue still, but its possible you have an electrical concern with a crank sensor or similar that doesnt work until the engine is at a high enough speed. Either way you have something that is preventing the truck from starting until the engine sees a high enough RPM, most likely still high pressure oil, but you need a scan tool to help find out what is happening. When it comes to repairs at my shop I do not provide diagnostics for people without me performing the repair in most cases, but ESPECIALLY with diesels. The diagnostic process on these often requires disassmbly and if I am not the one that is going to be fixing it, it makes no sense for me to tear it apart. 6.0 No start diags generally run several hundred dollars because of the labor involved, it is still often mostly included/combined with repairs if this is the case but either way that takes the right knowledge, the right tools etc. For what its worth, I work on a lot of diesel trucks and own a shop, I dont even own one because I dont have the need at this time and know how expensive they are. If you tow on occasion and not every day, get a V10 and spend the extra gas money because it is still cheaper.

@@GearHeadsGarageChannel yeah I had to close my shop a couple years ago.And sold all my heavy equipment, then sold my scanner last year. I got bumped off a roof down in S.C.(I live in N.H.). Couldn’t work so I sold out. Last time it did this, I had a bad nipple cup o-ring,right side. Is there a program I can buy for my laptop and a pigtail? And what would be the best one for the buck? I figured it’s such a common problem, I trying to narrow it down, cause it’s extremely hard (and painful) to lay across the core support. I appreciate that you got back to me. But like I said iT runs perfectly with a small shot of starting fluid! But I have to do it every time I start it?

Google Forscan you can use it with your phone or a laptop you will need a dongle you can buy for like $20 or so on Amazon. I am sorry to hear of your circumstances, I hope you get it figured out but there wont be any further assistance I can offer from 3,000 miles away.

Just lookup a Topside Creeper on google tons will come up, and they definitely are worth it!

You are going about this wrong, between your key and the starter there are other components involved that need to send that signal. With a test light or multimeter you can test everything necessary. First off, when you turn the key to the crank position is the ignition switch actually sending that signal? if so it still has a couple safeties to go through first, one thing would be your neutral safety switch. Does it crank if you pop it in neutral but not park? Can you watch it happen with the multimeter or test light? Past this it could be computer issues but with the right knowledge and testing even this can be diagnosed with basic tools. Long story short, your starter has two powers going to it, the constant 12v from the battery to the motor(the thicker gauge wire) and the starter solenoid control wire. If you are not getting 12 volts or so to the solenoid wire then the problem is upstream from there. Whether it is worth your time to figure out or pay someone else is up to you. Btw 6.0's have a wire near the passenger battery that can be jumped to crank the engine and if they key is in the on position it will start.

I will see if I can find that wire. At least if I can get it started that way I can get it to a mechanic

What year is your truck?

@@GearHeadsGarageChannel I have this also mine is a 06

That code is saying there is a CAN Bus communication error. At this rate you will need to take it to a shop that has the proper equipment and knowledge, if the communication error is what is causing your issue then without the right tools and know how it is going to be very unlikely that you will be able to fix the issue.

Maybe IPR sensor

You dont have any diesel mechanics in your area that can assist you?

Might should have used diesel instead of gas.

My bad that's a typo i ment diesel

Well I can tell you cars arent and havent been getting any simpler lol its not just these engines.

@@GearHeadsGarageChannel lol. i agree. Just considering them to the duramax and cummins fuel systems of the time. I have the opportunity to pick up a 2003 excursion 6.0 with no start condition so I'm just researching.

47k Zach@@Ka_Gg Q10

@@GearHeadsGarageChannel I just turned my truck off and now it won’t start. I don’t hear the fuel system prime that you hear before you start it

My tool is snap on

There is no fuel pressure value on the scanner so not sure what the 100psi value is. 1685 icp cranking is too high as well unless that was a running value off idle. Sounds like your data is off or you are looking at the wrong things. If the injector control pressure is over 500psi and it still wont start then you have another issue.

@@GearHeadsGarageChannel my Snap-on scan tool allows me going to fuel data and the fuel data tells me that the fuel pump pressure is 100 PSI I read that cranking could be anywhere from 500 to 2000 but you're saying that 1685 is too high I can't find any more leaks it will not start on ether I had three bad leaky injectors replace them the IPR valve is at 85% so could I have no coats but I have a bad ICP valve

I showed in this video exactly what to do. Get access to a scanner that can read the right data and see what ICP Pressure is showing, check your oil and pressurize the system to look for leaks.

@@GearHeadsGarageChannel yeah I've got no oil pressure when cranking. The gauge doesn't even move.

@@GearHeadsGarageChannel so I fixed the oil pressure issue but since scanning it ficm voltages are all 0. Ficm low main and high all read 0 on the scanner. But tested ficm with multimeter and it reads 48v with key on

Gear heads, What kind of scanner is that, and where can I get one. I’m currently using an edge scanner that has helped me so far. It shows most if not all readings for the sensors