Awesome! Holler if you need any help!

Heard from others they did experience cracking from the mounting area, causing the jettison of a battery so I’d definitely recommend distributing the weight since it is thin sheet metal holding the weight of two batteries

I just finished the East Mojave Heritage Trail in CA. The mounting area cracked and failed halfway through the trip. Had to ratchet strap the batteries and mount to the frame to make it home. Removed the Genesis system today. Going back to stock with a second battery on the passenger side firewall. The thin sheet metal on the 4Runner battery mount platform in that area is not sufficient to handle the extra weight of a dual battery system with the stress of off-roading. Adding a strengthening plate to the mounting area is not an option. Not enough clearance. As is, the dual battery system was all ready rubbing the under side of the hood.

No, the Group 35 has the posts reversed, which means your factory positive and negative clamps would not connect to the correct post without cutting the factory wires. The Group 25 size has the posts in the correct orientation so the factory wires line up perfectly.

I think the only standard hardware used is for the rivet nuts. Couple reasons for that. First, we were already stocking that particular size of rivet nut from another application, so it was easy to reuse that hardware rather than stock another size. Second, at the time, one of the popular rivet nut installation tools on the market came with a die for installing 1/4-20 threaded rivet nuts, and also that thread size is popular with several other aftermarket parts such as rear corner guards, fenders, and rocker armor panels, so the thought process was to avoid needing to buy another die size for the tool and stick with the most popular size. It's just 4 rivet nuts and 4 bolts, so certainly if someone really wanted to keep everything metric it would be easy to grab that from the local hardware store. Hope that helps!

Yes we do. Here's the link to the Gen 3 Tundra kit. We haven't had a chance to do a new install video for the Tundra yet, but the installation process is almost identical to the 4Runner. www.genesisoffroad.com/gen3-tundra-dual-battery-kit

There are no good factory mounting points for us to tie into like we have on the Jeeps. Trust me, we're not using the nutserts just for fun. Also, the factory hoses are in the way regardless of how the tray is designed so I'm not really understanding what you mean about that. In over 11 years of manufacturing dual battery systems, we have never had one single customer report to us that that had any sort of warranty voided whatsoever. Our kits do not change anything about the factory electrical system. We are simply adding a second battery and our system controls connecting and disconnecting it to protect the cranking battery from getting drained by your aftermarket accessories.

It only takes a few minutes to pull the battery out to access the headlights. You'll change the battery far more often than the headlight bulb over the lifespan of the vehicle.

Naa, it's actually very simple, especially since we do all the wiring for you.

No it doesn’t

We'll just leave one of the fuse box mount points hanging out here not fastened, and we'll start bending things out of the way.... nothing to see here. @@GenesisOffroad

@@WFO211 Yep. Can’t put a bolt in that last one because it will bump the bottom of the tray. Can’t raise the tray up because it will hit the hood. It ain’t going anywhere.