Thank you!

That’s great, I’m so glad it was helpful!

Thanks for the kind words! And you're right, the solenoid can get up to 140 degrees when the batteries are connected, so be careful!

That's a great idea, we will think about that and see what we can come up with. Also, we will be posting a new video on how to install the G Screen in a JL very soon. The best place we have found so far is above the rear view mirror to the left of where it says 'Passenger Air Bag'.

That was actually a professional mobile light wand just used for the video purposes to light up the dark engine bay.

Great question! If you are jump starting someone else's vehicle, your engine should be running, and most likely your batteries will be linked together already. You can simply press the boost button to make sure. If you do NOT hear a click sound, that means they were already connected together. At this point, you'll be using the engine's alternator plus the cranking amps of both batteries to try to jump start the other car. If you need to jump start yourself because your cranking battery is dead, first try using the boost button. If your second battery is fully charged, then it will usually be enough to start your engine. However, if your second battery is too low as well, or if your cranking battery is so low that you need even more power than your second battery can provide, then you can hook up jumper cables to another vehicle with its engine running. Again, if your second battery has more charge than your cranking battery, it will assist in getting the engine started. Hope this helps!

We recommend connecting your jumper cables to the positive on the crank battery and the negative on the aux battery. This will give you the most direct path to your alternator and starter. You can also connect directly to the posts on either battery. That will work too, and will not cause you any problems.

Our kit will link 2 batteries together in parallel while you're driving. Once you stop the vehicle, your fridge will run from the combined capacity of both batteries, but only until they drop to about 12.7v. At this point our system will separate the batteries from each other. All of your aftermarket devices that are connected to our power & ground bus bars will run from the auxiliary battery so that those devices will not drain down your cranking battery. Keep in mind that your factory fuse box is hard wired straight to your cranking battery. This means all of your factory circuits, including your factory 12v power outlet, will draw power from your cranking battery. That's why we recommend installing a dedicated 12v plug that is connected to our bus bars for powering a fridge. The whole point of our system is to protect your cranking battery from being drained by your aftermarket accessories, so you can always start the engine. Hope this helps! -Shane

Our kit adds approximately 50-60 pounds compared to one stock battery. The blue box is the brains. It monitors the voltage levels of both batteries. When it sees either battery above 13.2v for 2 minutes, it will send power to the silver solenoid which will link the 2 batteries together in parallel so they can both be charged by your alternator. When it sees them drop below ~12.7v for 1 minute, it will turn off the solenoid, disconnecting the batteries from each other. When you connect batteries together in parallel like our system does, you should use the same type of battery. Mixing battery types, such as a traditional lead acid, AGM, or lithium will reduce the lifespan of the batteries. If you want to add an additional lithium battery onto our system, you can do that by using a DC-DC charger, which is an on-board battery charger that can charge different types of batteries independently. The 18+ Tundra requires the fuse box to be moved backwards about 1" so the batteries will clear the headlights. The kit comes with new stainless steel brackets for easily relocating the fuse box. You can see details on that in the Tundra's written instructions on our website.

Great question - Yes! All batteries eventually die, right? So it's not if it happens, but when it happens, you will have the ability to jump start your vehicle from the power in the second battery. A dead cranking battery never happens at a convenient time, and it's no fun to have to flag someone down to find some jumper cables. Watch our short video about the G Screen to get a better understanding of how to jump start your engine without getting out of your seat - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fdxhdLCfp6zHXYU.html

That factory 120v outlet is powered through the factory fuse box, which gets its power directly from the cranking battery. If you need a higher capacity power inverter, you could easily install one and just wire it up to the bus bars so that the inverter will always run from the second battery and won't drain your cranking battery.

Yes. Since our kit links the batteries together in parallel, they all need to be the same type.

No. Ours will connect the batteries together when it sees one above 13.2v for two minutes. They remain connected in parallel until they drop below approx 12.7v for one minute.

Yes. If you have a way to mount a battery on the passenger side, then you can simply run some 2ga wire from the positive post to our positive bus bar, and the negative post to our negative bus bar. This will link the aux battery in our tray to your third battery in parallel all the time, giving you double the run time for your accessories.

Most dc-dc chargers can charge 2 batteries independently. You will simply follow their installation instructions and connect directly to each battery so that they can be charged efficiently while you are driving.

Our dual battery system does not consume any power. If you have the G Screen installed too you can easily keep an eye out for any unexplained voltage drop, and then investigate accordingly.

Yes.

You certainly could do that, it will not cause you any problems at all with our system, but unless you're carrying some serious amperage for a specific reason, you will not see any benefit of replacing our wires with larger wires.

It needs to be the same type as the ones in your dual kit. So if you are running AGM batteries in our dual kit, the 3rd also needs to be an AGM. You don't want to mix types, such as a traditional lead acid with an AGM or a lithium, because doing so will reduce the life span of all 3.

I found the answer in a question left by another subscriber. Would I hook the charge controller to the genesis system and then to the 100AH battery?

It does. It's tight, but it works

@@robertachtmeyer2781 thanks bro for letting me know man cuz I was kind of nervous about that also that's what she said.

Hi Jason, you are correct. You cannot mix battery types when you connect them in parallel like our kit does. If you want to use a lithium battery for some extra capacity, you could add a dc-dc charger onto our system, which will charge your AGM accessory battery and the lithium battery independently while the engine is running.

@@GenesisOffroad okay looks like I found my answer (unfortunately not what I was hoping to hear).

Since our kit links the batteries together in parallel, they would all need to be the same type, meaning all AGM, or all lithium. You don't want to mix battery types because it can reduce their lifespan. You can certainly have 2 AGMs in our dual tray, and then connect a dc-dc charger directly to our bus bars to efficiently charge a lithium battery in the back of the vehicle, lots of our customers do that. That works because a dc-dc charger does not link the lithium battery to the other batteries in parallel - it is completely separated from the other ones. Hope this helps!

The FJ is next up on our product development list. You can sign up for the waiting list to be notified when it's ready here - www.genesisoffroad.com/fj-dual-battery-kit

It's real easy on the Tundra. Just route the 2ga wire from the battery under the hood towards the firewall then down to the frame. Follow the frame, using zip ties along the way to secure it out of the way. From the rear wheel well, look up from under the vehicle. You'll see a large air gap between the inside of the bed and the outer body sheetmetal. I cut 2 holes in the bed sides, just under the factory tie down rail, and used heavy duty rubber grommets to protect the wire coming through the bed. Hope this helps!

Thank you!!!

Give us a call and we'll be glad to talk through it with you - 901-214-5337

Yes, the JL, like most late model vehicles, has a smart alternator. Once it sees your battery has charged up fully, it will turn down its output. This is done to help reduce the load on your engine's drive belt, to try to save a drop or two of gas. If it sees your battery level is low, it will increase its output to help charge it up.

@@GenesisOffroad thank you!

@@GenesisOffroad Has anyone done any testing dual LifePo4 batteries in the Genesis JL that you know of?

@@mcoffroadinaz4075 You can use 2 lithium batteries in our system if you chose, but you just need to be aware that lithium has some limitations. They don't like high amperage drains, such as using a winch under a heavy load, they don't like the high temps typical under the hood, and they shouldn't be charged at below freezing temperatures. For these reasons, we do not recommend lithium for use in our dual battery systems under the hood.

@@GenesisOffroad Most modern ones have pretty nice BMS built in these days with current protection. Some have low-temp charge/discharge protection built in (which would suck if you camped overnight and the batteries were auto shut off) and now I'm starting to see them with built in heater elements to keep them in proper temp range, and almost all of them auto-balance the cells or packs now. I know we are close to a mature product, but I don't know how close. I use the smaller motorsport ones in my offroad toys.

That sounds great Chris! Here’s a link to our new dealer request form. www.genesisoffroad.com/Become-a-Dealer_ep_42-1.html

We discontinued the 85 amp version on our Jeep and Toyota kits in mid-2017, so if you bought your kit after that time, you have the 200 amp isolator. Our RZR kits have always used only the 85 amp isolator because that one is plenty sufficient for that vehicle's charging system. If you want to double check yours, you can look at the blue sticker on the back side of the isolator. Part number 48525 is the 85 amp version, and part number 48530 is the 200 amp model.

@@GenesisOffroad thanks i checked sticker its 200

Sorry, we do not offer any installation labor services at our office.

No, not exactly. So to clarify, your factory aux switches will still work 100% exactly the same. What I was trying to explain is that you just need to be aware that those factory switches get their power from your cranking battery, and not from the accessory battery. This means that if you turn on your lights, the lights will be drawing power from your cranking battery, so you do have a risk of running them too long and draining the cranking battery down too low to be able to start the engine. If that happens, you can press the boost button to jump start yourself using the power in the accessory battery. As a general rule, we prefer to connect any accessories that will run with the engine turned off to our power and ground bus bars, so that we are always protecting the cranking battery. However, as long as you understand how the system works, you can certainly still use your factory switches to turn on your lights with the engine off. I'd recommend using our G Screen monitoring system to keep an eye on your battery status so you don't drain the cranking battery down too much. Hope this helps!

@@GenesisOffroad Ahhh OK, that makes sense. I was just concerned that I paid all that money to have those Aux switches in the Jeep and then add the dual battery system and they would not be useful. I don't really run my lights long enough to drain the battery. Usually for brief periods of time as needed. Thanks for the clarification!

@@reginaldwalton You're welcome!

@@GenesisOffroad Got mine installed a week or so ago and loving it. Going camping this weekend, so I'll get to test it out with my Dometic fridge and other accessories all connected. Thanks for a great product. Now only if you would make that battery monitor just a little bit bigger and I won't have to look for an alternative battery monitor. LOL

Hey Michael! It can fit with some very minor adjustments. Feel free to give us a call and we'll tell you about it! 901-214-5337

Yes, that is correct!

@@GenesisOffroad why go through a sPod vs the bus bar on the Genesis?

@@voodoo36x Great question! Our power & ground bus bars give you a convenient spot to connect any devices that need direct battery power, so that you don't have to stack up a bunch of wires on your battery's post clamp. The sPOD is a great add-on to our system. It is an auxiliary fuse box AND a switch panel to control your devices. It makes it simple to add extra devices that need a fuse, a relay, and a switch. The sPOD needs power too, so you'll simply connect its power & ground wires to our bus bars. This way anything that you can control through the sPOD will run from your aux battery and will not drain down your cranking battery.

@@GenesisOffroad Got it....THNX!

When you connect batteries together in parallel like our system does, you should use the same type of battery. Mixing battery types, such as a traditional lead acid, AGM, or lithium will reduce the lifespan of the batteries. If you want to add an additional lithium battery onto our system, you can do that by using a DC-DC charger, which is an on-board battery charger that can charge different types of batteries independently.

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