I so happy I could help! Thanks for watching.

That’s great news!

@FE3MX5 How did you go about applying for the customer satisfaction program? I can’t find anything online

I had been trying to get them to honor that for the last year or so and no dealership will and corporate is no help, in the process of fixing it myself lol.

Hello 👋 So I too have the same car as you and I’m wondering how you were able to get your car repaired for free? My car is also under 10 years and below the 150k mileage.

Nhtsa

Thanks for watching!

It is covered under Toyota Program for 2011-2015 model until 31 august 2021 unlimited miles. Replacement for Free. Just contact your dealer and NHTSA website.

@@rondhole I looked on the NHTSA website and couldn't find anything related to this for a 2013 Prius

@@forestryprof YOu can come to Toyota dealership or call them and ask for the repair or Costumer Satisfaction Program. It is almost the end of the program August 31. static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10164922-9999.pdf

@@rondhole Thanks! I contacted them and they're fixing it! No charge like just you said.

@@forestryprof yes, you almost at the end at the program. Good for you, it ends on August 31 2021

Awesome! Yes I teach at ATC, small world.

What model of Autel did you buy? Did you have to get techstream software, as well to use with Autel? Did you have to transfer info from old ABS module to new ABS module - which I was told needs to be done.

@@rohitbhatnagar7599 The actuator/booster/master cylinder unit is the square part on the top. The accumulator/ABS pump is the thing on the bottom that looks like two soda cans.

@@rohitbhatnagar7599 I bought an Autel MK808. It was kinda pricey at $450, but I have a number of cars in my family that I service, so I think it will be something useful to have. Sorry for the late response.

@@steventhompson3679 Thank you for the response. I think I need to get the Autel Ulta at $5000. The ABS unit programming/coding needs to transferred from old ABS to new ABS. This is what I have been told. Maybe I am wrong, since I am Amateur... If I do NOT do the ABS programming, then Autel MS906TS will do the trick. Autel did not recommend MK808 for 2010 prius. Please provide any corrections, as needed

where did you get the techstream software? also, i searched for the dongle you mentioned and see several different versions. if you can point me to the one you used, that would be much appreciated.

@@Charles-in5xg This is probably too late but I just replaced both of these parts and used Tactrix Openport 2.0 from amazon and also Techstream v 16.00.020. I had problems with losing connection between techstream and the car with earlier versions of techstream. Got version 16.00.020 and the bleeding procedure and linear valve offset learning ran through with no problems. I also had problems with mini vci losing connection, but never tried the mini vci with later versions of techstream. I hope this is helpful to anyone else trying to do this on their own.

It is risky buying used items off ebay. It is not easy taking/putting items in from car - spending 7 hours. So, if there is defective item from ebay, need to restart everything all over again. Any hints you can provide on getting good items off ebay/amazon/other

@@Charles-in5xg sorry for late reply but I got the tech stream software with the mini vci I ordered from Amazon. It’s just a Dropbox link the seller provides and it’s cracked software but It works.

@@rohitbhatnagar7599 no tips really as all parts are usually pulled from another car so, yea basically install and test. Imo once you do it once it’s easy to do again.

Hey, where did you find that the repair was covered? I might have the same problem..

How did you bleed the brakes? Just like a normal car? Or did you use one of the self bleeder things

and also what about the relearning process he talked about

Can you share your brake bleeding process without the use of the software?

Did you do a Prius

@@mattbrooks9928 just like a regular car. Breaks are still in perfect working condition. I had a buddy of mine press the breaks while I bled each one. No problems what so ever

Hi Joseph! I covered the battery disconnect at the 2:20 mark. You are right, the Gen 2 is probably twice as difficult as the Gen 3, especially since the inverter has to come out. Thanks for watching!

It is also free before 10 years 150k miles period. Toyota have campaign

@@rondhole Only if my car was four years younger. Hope you were able to benefit from the campaign. Thanks for letting me know.

@@JS-hg4vj yes, it is a pity that Toyota limit the campaign up to 10y only. You can always try to call Toyota 1800 head quarter number and ask for deal. Sometimes, few % discount could be offered. 14 years is not new but we don't want to just give up and total the car. There is a pattern on the way the sticker on the pump. If it is wrap around the cylinder, it is the revised version. If it is in parallel with the cylinder booster axis, it is the old defective model if you look for used parts

And also disconnect the hybrid

@D C The program is over, and I think this is an extended warranty not a recall.

@@DavidFleisch-l3v unfortunately there is no good camera angle for that.

E-bay😉

No need to apologize for your language, you are doing great! Normally if these parts are the issue, they will set an ABS code. I would lubricate everything like you said and see if that helps. Thanks for watching! Let me know if that works.

@@AutoScholarwithMrB Hi, I have recorded and uploaded a video about it. maybe you can recognise where this noise is comming from. i can hear it from behind the fire wall but i might be wrong. might it be air in the system even thouhg the brake works perfect and no pedal sinking or weird behaviour? thanks from advance. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bLmgmLyTqKm0o30.html

The brake like switch (near the pedal) needs to be adjusted. Sometimes the switch gets bumped during the install and it messes with the adjustment. Hope this helps!

I’m having the same issue!!

@@AutoScholarwithMrBI’m having the same issue and it seems like the actuator won’t extend enough to allow brake pedal to reach brake light switch. I was thinking about bleeding them again, but now will try to bend the metal or even put a plastic spacer. I already extended the light switch as far as it goes, but it still wasn’t enough.

Bleeding and setting the linear valve.

I'm in the same boat. Toyota today said if they get enough complaints they'll have to issue a recall.

same boat also. should we contact toyota.

In the same boat. I just called Toyota customer care/NHTSA -7/21/22. no luck.....

Damnit

Is your ABS light on?

Thanks for watching!

Glad to hear that Hubert. Thanks for watching!

Good luck my friend, and thanks for watching!

@forestryprof YOu can come to Toyota dealership or call them and ask for the repair or Costumer Satisfaction Program. It is almost the end of the program August 31. static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10164922-9999.pdf

If that is what it takes for people to drive at the speed limit - every car should have this feature.....😂

I just got the lights. I am afraid one day break will not work. Did you have any other issues besides one you mentioned?

​@@rohitbhatnagar7599 No issues, breaks will work just fine as long as you replace break liners. And flush break fluid once in 100,000 miles and make sure there's no air bubbles , if you are replacing break fluid yourself.

Some dealers sell these online. Dealer is the only place I know that sells these new.

One of the biggest EV trainers out there, Craig Van Battenberg from AC/DC agrees with you. I took a training class from him and this is in his manual, ha ha!

@@AutoScholarwithMrB lol i had no idea there were others out there with my crazy sense of humor, thats great!!🤣👌

I’m not sure on the interchange numbers. I would contact a Toyota parts department and ask them.

It is covered under Toyota Program for 2011-2015 model until 31 august 2021 unlimited miles. Replacement for Free. Just contact your dealer and NHTSA website.

@@rondhole I got into this a little late, as now my lights are lighting. Any way this program is coming back. I contacted Toyota Customer care and NHTSA - no luck

@@rohitbhatnagar7599 you contact the dealership and 1800 toyota number. Who knows if they can waive partial cost. Otherwise, buy the original parts kit and install it somewhere cheaper. It is safety issue, you are liable for causing any damage or casualty if you do not fix it. Basically, you cannot drive it until it is fixed.

@@rondhole sounds like fun

@@EdwardGolonka-b4t does not sound right to me. I’ve never seen that.

Hi. Do you happen to have any link or info on this? Please. I called them and they said it has expired already.

@@44liwi I believe that the extended warranty was for 10 years/ 150,000 miles and the last model year under that warranty was 2012, which my car was. There might have been calendar date limit also, so it could have expired. We got in just under the wire, I guess. The hybrid battery went bad in December and the brakes went out in January. We liked the loaner Prius Prime so much that we traded in the 2012 on a 2022. We had to wait a few weeks for the new car to come in because of all the shortages. Most all new Toyotas are pre-sold but, depending on the pecking order, if they are getting more than one, you might be able to get the one you want or wait for the next shipment. I found out about the extended warranty online and then found it on the Toyota website. Toyota is famous for their secret warranties and you have to know what to ask for. If you have been a new Toyota repeat customer, you might be able to contact the area field manager and get something done.

I took my 2013 Toyota Prius type 2 in for this. I was told that when I took it in I can get it diagnosed for about 300 or I can just get the break booster recalled. And me being the typical Prius user I said just do the recall. When I got my receipt it says I received a software update but no claims on the receipt of a replacemen. The car ran fine for 2 days as I’m a Uber driver I drive a lot. I was under 150k miles the first time. But after those 2 days the problem came back. Now I have just one code appear. C1391. And now I’m watching this video to replace the break booster and actuator for myself. But I need that amazing code reader and to learn how to purge the break line. Which is different than a food f150 😂 The things we learn and go thru to save thousands of dollars…😅 I got screwed over. Hopefully this message of mine is someone else’s warning to make sure the item is replaced before taking back a car that appears to be running fine to later have a break booster/actuator that turns on and off that doesn’t always work efficiently. And hopefully someone has some advice for me to still get it fixed before I decide to do the job myself.

@@leonardofranco5098 A "code reader" will NOT fix your car! A bi-directional scanner is necessary. Expect to spend $1,000's for one. My Snap-on diagnostic scanner cost me $14K in 2016. Then there is the troubleshooting software which a subscription costs several $100. every 6 months. On top of that, you have to buy access to the repair manual. If the job wasn't completed, take it back, they are obligated to complete the repair, especially if it was a safety recall like this one. You might have received a letter from Toyota if the car needed an emission or safety update. But because this was one of Toyota's "secret" warranties, it is basically the owner's responsibility to know about it. Toyota had one of their "secret" warranties with exhaust manifolds cracking on the 20R engines. I had replaced several of these manifolds at my shop. When the manifold cracked on my 1976 Toyota Celica, I had found out about the "secret" warranty, took my car in and they replaced my entire exhaust system from updated exhaust manifold to exhaust outlet tip(including new hangers). A customer of mine with a first generation Camry had his automatic transaxle go bad. The Toyota dealer was happy to repair it for $3600.(an astronomical for the mid 1980's). I told him about the "secret" Toyota warranty, but he didn't want to take it back to the dealer. I repaired it for him at a fraction of the cost Toyota had charged him and he was happy. The correct factory warranty repair is to replace the entire brake unit. One look under the hood would be evident if the brake unit was replaced. They don't have to record it on a workorder. It is an internal repair sent to Toyota. A programming update is standard procedure if there is an update affecting car emissions. The replacement units are on perennially on backorder and they usually keep the car for days. Toyota provides a loaner car while your car is in for an extended stay. Don't attempt to repair it yourself!

@@automatedelectronics6062 My Prius is 26,000 miles over what the warranty covers so Toyota will not replace my brake assembly. Guess I’m SOL and I can’t afford to have a mechanic do the work so I have to replace it myself.

Ok, so probably four hours your first time with mechanical experience, maybe less since you aren’t doing the scan tool stuff. As far as towing, nothing special outside of keeping the front wheels off the ground.

@@AutoScholarwithMrB Thanks for the quick response. I just meant should I manually bleed it like a normal master cylinder replacement first or just not touch anything and have it towed to the shop.

@BigBadWolf.............. they are going to rebleed it anyway, so it’s up to you. I’d fill it up with fluid and tow it. Hope this helps.

@@AutoScholarwithMrB That is exactly what I was planning on doing and if that's what you would do then sounds like I'm on the right track. Thanks again for the replies

@@BigBadWolf.............. thanks for watching!

Next one I get in!

@@AutoScholarwithMrB Need video urgently...... thanks !!

@@AutoScholarwithMrBDid you do video on bleeding and cal

De nada!

Have you done this yourself? Most cars you can but if you did do one of these. Does it not need the relearning process I just swapped my master cylinder with a used one. I think I can do the bleeding manually but was curious about the relearning process he is talking about

I always suggest changing both

Sounds like the linear valve was not set correctly. Was a new ABS unit installed?

@@AutoScholarwithMrB Yes, it's a new unit. Not sure why it did not work. Also noticed the installed actuator unit is dry (the left side part that you are holding @ 4:19 in your video). Is it supposed to have fluid going through here? Thank you so much!

You would need to provide the trouble codes

Abs problem

Normally the booster unit and the pump are replaced together because one can cause failure of the other. The accumulator valve that normally leaks is in the booster unit, and that wears the pump out trying to keep up with the lost pressure. I will have a video soon going deeper into this. Thanks for watching!

Once you have that code, it’s pretty much a done deal. There isn’t anything that would show a problem externally. Thanks for watching, and good luck with your repair!

Same boat here with only 96k on mine...Toyota reliability ain't no more

When do head gasket go? are they hard to fix? How do you know battery is at 50% - is there a tester?

Thanks for watching!

I dont due to the differences in scan tool brands, but if you follow the instructions on the tool it is very easy with every brand I’ve used.

Are you using a new unit?

The part you replaced also acts as the steering angle sensor, and I believe that needs to be calibrated. I am not sure if that can be done with the tool you have.

Are you replacing both parts?

Without codes I couldn’t say if it is safe to drive. I will say in my opinion if this part is bad, the car is not safe to drive. If you take it elsewhere I would make sure the shop has done previous hybrid work before. Thanks for watching and good luck!

The leak area is metal to metal contact. There is no fix outside of replacement.

The pump running more frequently or weird noises, like squeaks and grinding, are early symptoms.

​@@AutoScholarwithMrBThanks. Is that same for both the accumulator and actuator?

If you have a light on with no code, the only thing I can think of is the brake fluid being low. Check your level. If it is good, make sure you are using a high quality scan tool and scan every system in the car. I hope this helps!

MrB thank you for responding so quickly I really appreciate that. I never have an engine light on with the code C 1191. Right now my engine light is on with a misfiring on cylinder number one. I believe it could be My head gasket is leaking because I was losing some coolant until I poured in the quick-fix solution. My brake fluid is not leaking at all. but I have all the symptoms related to code C 1191. I also change my hybrid battery about nine months ago with the refurbished and that solved my problem of the car shutting down while driving on the freeway because I believe it’s a defense mechanism when the battery gets too hot. And I have a permanent code A080. I was told it would go away after driving the Prius 500 mile it’s been over 10,000 and now I am stuck can’t renew my registration. on top of that, I just had my catalytic converter stolen in front of my house in a nice neighborhood over 40 days ago. The dealer charge $2800. I just had to pay a deductible for my insurance. Mr. B your information is very valuable. If you would be willing to reach out to me on a private level, I will be willing to make a small donation to your channel. I am in Southern California.

Should be able to use a pro level scan tool to do this. I use either a Snap On Zeus or an Autel Maxisys but others work as well. I believe you can use a laptop and techstream software too, I just do not have experience with that.

It may not if the module has failed to make the canbus network fail in the car. I’ve never seen one do it but it is a possibility.

Those codes would lead me to believe that you need to replace these parts, unfortunately. Thanks for watching, and good luck with your repair.

The pump and master cylinder are two different parts. If you put a used one on, it could be bad. These parts cannot be repaired.

I use this site for part numbers. It may not work in your country. If not, just search “Toyota parts lookup” and it should give you something. Thanks for watching, sir!

www.partsautonationtoyotawinterpark.com

2008 is a Gen 2 , so this video does not apply. I do have a video on Gen 2 however. I do not do any outside work, as I am an instructor. $3700 seems extremely high, even for a dealer.

@AutoScholarwithMrB I thought that as well, it's partly because they're quoting 10 hrs!! When these were recalled it was a 4hr job.

To properly do this you need the actuator and the pump. Hope this helps!

I did not traditionally bleed before, but I have heard of people doing so. I have never had issue bleeding through the scan tool. My Snap On Zeus was having issues with the linear calibration, and my Autel scan tool worked perfectly on that and bleeding, which is why for Prius it is my first choice.

I am in the southeast, and work at a college, so not a regular shop. I would post on the Prius pages on Facebook and see what you find. Thanks for watching!

Brake light switch needs to be readjusted most likely.

@@AutoScholarwithMrB where do I do that from? Is it where the kotter pin goes?

@@l.deluna5501 it should be where the brake pedal touches the switch under the dash.

@@AutoScholarwithMrB thx

@@AutoScholarwithMrB more more will question. How do you adjust the brake light switch?

I have heard that it is possible to bleed the brakes without a scan tool, but I have never tried it. On these I do recommend buying new as the used ones have a high probability of failure. Thanks for watching!

where can i buy please

@@carlosalbertobryangonzalez9528 Any Toyota dealership should be able to get these

Sounds very similar.

@@AutoScholarwithMrB I seem to hear the pump quite often too. I guess it's on the way out. I also have a degrading battery and need a egr valve. Not sure if it's worth it at the point. Has 185,000 miles and burns oil like candy. Would you put money into a car like this? It's paid for though.

@@watchandjewelryloft4713 if you have to pay someone to do the repairs, probably not. If you can do it yourself, maybe?

@@AutoScholarwithMrB I've tackled cleaning the entire egr system myself. Plugs. I just did rotors and pads. But, I don't know if I want to pursue this. I need to watch your entire video and see if it's something I want to tackle. The biggest issue for me would be setting aside the time to do it.

I cant see the bottom being an easier solution.

Normally around $1500-$2000 for replacement. Contact your local dealer to see if the warranty extension applies to you.

That’s really strange. I’ve had issues with traction control problems if you have an odd sized tire or wheel.

@@AutoScholarwithMrB wheel size are normal.. i get my tire from america's tire and i get the recommended. by the way, the replacement parts are used parts. do i need to do any type of special calibration?

Ok, did you replace the units with new or used parts?

@@AutoScholarwithMrB used. used for both booster and actuator. my mechanic tried 2 different sets and same problem on both sets.

@@Nustudios I would have to see the scan tool data when it happens. Maybe a coding error or a wheel speed sensor may be freaking out and sending bad info to the module.

If you go to Facebook, there is a page called “Prius Nation.” I would post there to see if you can find someone local to you. Thanks for watching, hope this helps!

@@AutoScholarwithMrB thank you

I use either a snap on Zeus or an Autel Maxisys

Prices are everywhere. $1500 or so is the average price I am hearing.

I’ve been told it could be either, because the pump can not develop enough pressure and the booster can leak it down. Also normally if you replace one, the other may fail soon after.

@@AutoScholarwithMrB Awesome! Thanks for the reply.

@@AutoScholarwithMrB Ok. Sorry about this, but another question. Can the booster assembly from a 2012-2015 be used to replaced the unit on a 2010-2011?

It is covered under Toyota Program for 2011-2015 model until 31 august 2021 unlimited miles. Replacement for Free. Just contact your dealer and NHTSA website.

@@rondhole I have a 2010. =|

6-7 hours of labor plus whatever the part costs is what I can tell you. Since parts and labor hour costs are different, it is hard to say. I’ve seen it anywhere from $1200-$2500 from posts from other owners.

I would expect to pay 5-6 hours of labor to do this job. If there is a shop that specializes in Prius repairs I would take it to them.

Well the part is comparable cost to any other OEM actuator. The problem I see is a higher failure rate and zero aftermarket manufacturer that is making these. Dealers do vary on price so I would shop around. Some dealers will ship as well.