Thanks a lot! Glad it helped you!

What were your symptoms? I have no lights as of yet but seem to be hearing the pump (buzz) when I’m in park often. Did you just replace the accumulator? Thx!

Did you use a scan tool for the brake bleed

@@automotiveinsight can you guys replace mine? I need an experienced shop in SoCal who is confident in these, or I might sell my 13 Prius

Thank you! That means a lot to us. Congratulations on getting it done.

​@@automotiveinsight One thing I forgot to mention about re-install. It would be great if you can re-install some parts a little slower (eg cowl /wiper motor install). I know we can go beginning and go in reverse - but just offering the suggestion for better video. Sometimes I take parts off and do not know where they came from. For example, I am glad you went slow on brake reservoir install, as I had 3 pipes and did not know which one went were. Pausing video at that re-install location showed me to where to put in properly

@@rohitbhatnagar7599we appreciate the feedback. The thing is: it’s impossible to make everyone happy. If we slow things down, people complain about the video being too long and “ever heard of fast forward” comments. On the other hand, when we fast forward, others don’t like it. We’re trying to find a happy medium. In our future videos, I think we’re going to take pictures of components and show where the bolts are and the sizes for a few seconds for easy reference.

@@automotiveinsight Thanks... you are right it is hard to keep everyone happy.

@automotiveinsight you have a point, but anyone complaining that you need to FF needs to start exercising their thumb 👍 and do their own damn fast forwarding. Or play at 2x until they get to the part they want. On the other hand it's difficult to try to slow it down enough to see what is happening when the creator has sped up the video.

I couldn't figure out how to put the cushions and nuts in. I tried the inside first since it's hard but there's no room to hold the cushions and I have small hand. What a genius design!

Thank you! Good luck!

@@automotiveinsight The trickiest part is actually that driver side nut closest to the firewall on the pump!! It's sped through on your video but I'm curious how you did it. I ended up removing the mounting nut on that big mess of wires so I could pull them up a little to make more room. Then I had to stick the nut to the end of a piece of masking tape to be able to hold it in place and get the threads started.

Have you done it yet ? I'm about to do it Have all tools

@@samydean213 I did it. My only real tip is what I mentioned, that was a bitch!

Thank you for the feedback and congratulations! Subscribing to the channel is the best way to help us out.

If you remove the driver seat gives a lot of access to the bolts makes it easier to get under the dash

Sorry to hear that.

Yo I’m going through it too. I just went to Carson Toyota and same thing. They ran my vin and told me sorry your car is not affected by the recall. I’m like well my car has the same failure as the recall SMh

Glad it was helpful!

I agree it is always necessary for safety! Crazy stuff happens. I went to auto body school and every lesson when working on a hybrid started with "disconnect the hybrid high voltage battery." And it is SO simple on a Prius. The connector is only like 2 feet away from the 12v battery.

It needs to be able to do the bleeding, linear offset, and zero point functions. Browse the comments, I think some people have other options for scan tools or workarounds for that part.

This should still be under extended 10 year/150k mile warranty replacement. Go to a dealership and get it done for free

But nobody show that

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/isuVi5ua1LPSkX0.html&lc=UgyT7iachQjmOUaFNzF4AaABAg.9ousCX9gnKRA6XSBd74hTs kzfaq.info/get/bejne/araIndqBnqiXmmg.html

You’re completely correct. Thanks for pointing it out for us. I’ll fix it asap. To the best of my knowledge, these are dealer only parts, so the Internet is probably the best place to look.

@@automotiveinsight Thanks. I'm now looking into the ZJB enhancement program to see if my vehicle is covered.

It's subjective, but yeah, it take about 5 hours to do.

Well the tsb says to do both of them so that’s we we’ve always done. The snap on did not come with techstream software, but since it’s tablet based I installed it and use a mongoose cable from a usb port. That being said, we used the snap on tool itself to bleed the brakes, not techstream.

Many videos say to do both, including dealer I purchased parts. It is big job - do not experiment. These are brakes also - main stopping for car

hi, did you ever find answers to your questions? I was wondering the same thing.

@@sashaghovanlou8175 No I haven't. Our Prius is still suprisingly driveable even with 2 or 3 brake-related lights on the dash. Sooner or later we'll have to do something I guess - but honestly we'll probably put the $2000-$3000 toward a replacement car.

If the only thing you want to do with it is bleed the brakes on this car, I would consider contacting mobile mechanics and seeing if they have a scan tool that is capable and having them come out. If you want to have one for other stuff, we picked up a used autel on eBay for $500 that will do it. Others will do it too but unfortunately you’re going to have to look into it a little deeper.

There is a zero point calibration and linear offset procedure that needs to be done with a scan tool. But no programming.

Never been there. We’re located in South Carolina.

​@@automotiveinsighthow much do you charge for the replacement (part + labor)? I'm in NC and don't mind driving to SC

Thank you. Honestly, I wouldn’t know where to begin with as far as getting parts there. As far as I know there aren’t any aftermarket options for the parts, so I guess I would start searching for the closest Toyota dealers to you and see if they can get them. Good luck!

Thanks @@automotiveinsight

The only thing that comes to mind is I think you're supposed to unplug the brake fluid level sensor and set the parking brake. If those have been done, I don't have any other input.

Read some of the other comments. I helped several people with the same issue already.

If I were you, I would try bleeding it with the car running. It’s not perfect nor is it what you’re supposed to do, but it’s better than nothing. Unfortunately, I think the damage is already done and don’t think that bleeding the brakes will help much. You also need to figure out why the brake fluid was so low.

@@automotiveinsight thanks for the replay, the break fluid was low because all break pads are to the absolute last bit of pad left.

Call ahead and make sure they can do it. Yes, I always replace both. No you don’t have to disconnect the hybrid battery.

Yikes! 3 sets of brakes is very uncommon on Toyota hybrids.

@@automotiveinsight i know. I'm very upset with them. The first rotor pad change was at 42k and they lasted 13k miles. He said the slide pins were stuck so i told him the other dealer did it last year but he said it was out of warranty. Another oil change, i had a brand new oil filter on my seat when they were done. I asked if this got changed and he said they brought out an extra. Most recent routine service was supposed to be oil and tire rotation. Front driver tire didn't have a valve stem cap. When they gave it back it still didn't. I'm having a hard time imagining the process of a tire rotation where the valve stem caps don't stay with the tire.

I had to replace both in mine.

I THINK (don’t hold me to it ) that the early first generation mongoose cable will do it. You can pick one up on Amazon with some old techstream software for like $50 and use a laptop. But you probably should dig into whether or not it can do it before you get one.

@@automotiveinsight Ok, thanks for that info! I certainly will not hold you to it and I'll let you know if I find out anything else :)

@@fastheartmartvideos Hello. Could you please tell me what scanner did you use to program a booster.

It was an inside joke. The Prius we did the pistons on a couple of videos before this one, we were pulling the engine the exhaust broke the windshield. Luckily it was already broken before that and I was planning on replacing it anyway. But you’re fine to drive it with no cowl for a while. I drove that red one for about a week with no cowl.

As far as I know they’re dealer only.

No reprogramming. Just air bleeding, linear offset, and zero point calibration.

@@automotiveinsight thanks for that ınfo can ı do that all things with mını vcı toyota techstream or do you recommend something else ?

That should work just fine.

@@automotiveinsight thank you so much for helping I really appreciate it

@@semihislamyan3600 you’re welcome. Good luck!

You can’t

no its not . The reason u need scan tool is for a robot bleeding . I am to bleed mine down to where i get the light to go off. there is cylinder in the there that has to bleed when u get a new one there is no oil in them so u need to bleed them to add oil and release that air . That cylinder is not in home position so its gonna send a signal computer to now its in limp mode disable abs and turn brake and abs on. Air will make u have no firm pedal Its a safety light to say brakes are failing dont drive car . This is a serious failure and should be fixed immediately.

Do you really want to risk bleeding brakes incorrectly, especially if you are a novice?

$300ish I would guess.

You’ll notice the pump running more often. For instance at idle(ready on), once the pump builds pressure, it shouldn’t run again until you press the brakes 3-4 times. A bad one will run every few minutes without applying brakes.

@@automotiveinsight Thanks for replying such promptly. If the pump motor runs more often as you said, which one is going to go? The pump motor or the booster?

@@kamrulhassan7185 it usually means the accumulator is bad. There’s a service bulletin about it that says to replace them both regardless so I’ve always done them both at the same time.

@@automotiveinsight Are the symptomps different for the actuator/brake booster going bad? Specially, prior to abnormal leaks since it is a part beyond repair or serviced.

@@kamrulhassan7185 no. There’s really no way of knowing which component is leaking pressure down. It’s the accumulators job to store pressure, but it just as easily be leaking back through the pump side. So the symptoms would be the same either way.

The unofficial test I use is to start the car and let the booster build pressure. You should be able to push the brake pedal at least 3 times before the pump runs again. If it won’t or just sporadically runs at idle they’re definitely on their way out.

@@automotiveinsight I'll try your test later today, thank you so much

find a mobile mechanic with a pro scan and buy from toyota online.

Yes. It was initially wrong but we have since corrected it in the title.

Unfortunately not. Our home base is South Carolina.

Bro I stay in north Dallas Did you figure out how to fix it . Please reply

Did you find an answer to this question? I know safest thing to do is replace both but I really don't feel like the pump has a problem even though it cycles on and off frequently bc of the leaking master.

@@SCOTRANDOLPH At first I thought it's the bump so I found a company to rebuild it then I realized it's the actuator but I don't think it's a total waste since the pump is at the bottom but if you won't plan to keep your car long then I guess you can try replace the actuator. My pump goes on every 10secs and I have C1252, C1253, C1256.

@@Btu555 ok thank you for the feedback. I am going to keep the car for as long as I can. I have 150k miles on it now and I personally replaced the head gasket last year so I feel intimate lol with the car and don't want to see it ever die. I added an oil catch can too. You should see the crap that I dump out of that every oil change.

I’ve never done one in one of those. The CT200 is very similar to the Prius.

See if your brake lights are working correctly when you push the pedal. The brake light switch may be out of adjustment. That could cause both of your issues.

@@automotiveinsight Brakes lights are are always on... happens after all that mess fixing down there... Thanks !!

@@rohitbhatnagar7599cool deal.

@@automotiveinsight I got the brake light switch all the way down and it is till not hitting the pedal. All bolts on master cylinder are very tight. I can not seem to put URL in comments, but please search youtube for the video - "Brake pedal Adjustment kk,geotjte". It popped up as the 2nd video

@@rohitbhatnagar7599it looks like your brake light switch bracket is bent.

Adjust your brake light switch.

@@automotiveinsight I did adjust it using the "wingnut" part of the switch. It still seems like the little button (the part that actually moves) needs to come out more. Can you pull it out as you can on some other cars like Fords? And thank you for your amazingly fast reply late at night!

@@DavidBeatypersonal yeah. The switch is on the bracket that stayed in the car. It will twist about 1/4 turn, then you can adjust where it sits.

i did the same, probably frustrated with the process. I bent the steel part of brake light switch. Automotiveinsight helped alot with solution of bending steel part back

No. All the brake stuff if low voltage.

Might want to keep your key fob away from the car

​@@woodstream6137why is that?

@@stevieandsara i might have been thinking pad and rotor replacement when i commented but it could apply here i guess. the key fob pressurizes the breaking system when it's near the car. I guess to make sure the brakes are ready to use before the car is started. If the calipers arent mounted, the piston can over extend and need software to open the valves to push the piston back in without damaging it. Maybe something similar could happen with booster or accumulator and all the brake fluid is purged?

Maybe for me though I d hv to disconnect since I would get it towed to mechanic after replacing parts for the computer part of it.

Interesting to know! Thanks!

You've been driving the car in this condition for 7 years? Cool, mine just started doing this two weeks ago and I was worried it had to be fixed immediately.

You've been having that recurring noise for 7 years? But the brakes are still working properly ? On my car i have the sound every 15s or so. But no lights on the dash and the brakes are working perfectly.

Yeah bro lol

​@@rosaritomex4223The constant running doesn't eventually burn out the booster? I guess if you are easy on the braking the regenerative braking does all the work. But emergency stops is when you'll wish you had it working?

Parts are roughly $1500-2000 and labor is roughly $1000-1500 depending on where you have it done, where you live, and what parts they use.

I drove mines for 8 months. These are brakes, do not take chance of accident- change it.

Also have same issue, so how i can get them(two spares) as am in Rwanda, and at which cost?

They will read the codes. The brake bleeding is a special function. Some tools have it, some don’t. You’ll have to look into whichever tool you plan on using to see if it has that function.

Would you recommend any scanner that can do this from amazon?

Check with the guy a few comments up. I recommended a first generation mongoose cable. I haven’t tried it but I bet it will work. I think he tried it. That’s probably your cheapest option. But I haven’t used any scan tools from Amazon so I don’t know what will work from there.

@@automotiveinsight thank u so much

For USA, 200k mi (length of ownership example) / 25mpg extra (generous because most delivery, uber is city where hybrids excell) = 8000 gallons vs hybrid at 50mpg = savings of 4000 gallons x $3.61 (median cost of gas in USA) = $14,440 dollars. Prius last longer than 200k with maintenance.

This is the most uninformed comment I've read on KZfaq in awhile. First, you don't offer any stats or costs, or how long is the intended ownership, how much driving, which car makes and models you are comparing, etc. To start off with, a Ford or Chevy car is typically cheaper than a Toyota but am I going to buy one? HELL NO. There's a reason Ford stopped making cars. Here's my scenario for you. In 2012, I needed a wagon-type car for my work but also would be driving it for nonwork use. I was almost certainly going with Toyota as over the years I've owned many makes of cars but Toyota stood out (I owned Subaru, Honda, Datsun/Nissan, Ford and Chevy cars). Let's look at the price of 2012 Toyota wagons or mini SUVs and mpg. 2012 Prius V (hybrid): base price $27,160, combined mpg 41 Toyota Venza: $27,425, combined mpg 23 Toyota RAV4: $23,460, combined mpg 24. Out the door, I'd pay more for the Venza which was NOT a hybrid so we don't need to compare further about fuel savings. The RAV4 (also not a hybrid) was about $3300 less expensive. How long would it take to make up that $3300 difference in fuel costs between the V and the RAV4? About 48,000 miles and you break even. That's 3-4 years of ownership. Anything after that and you are saving a lot of gas money in the Prius V over the RAV4 (almost twice as much gas use in RAV4). Since I still own the Prius V I have saved thousands. Now let's consider your comment about "expensive to repair." Well, it sure isn't a BMW or Mercedes, try paying to get those repaired. My hybrid has never needed anything other than routine maintenance until this brake booster issue. If the brake booster had failed about 6 months earlier it would have been in the extended warranty on that "known issue" and repair would have been free. Quite frankly, there's little repair on a Toyota, especially if you do your maintenance on time. I have over 120K miles on the car now. Will my hybrid battery last forever? No, but then I've already owned the car 11 years, so sooner or later I'll be looking for a newer model anyway. Guess what I'll buy? Another hybrid, and it will be a Toyota. Edit: If my hybrid battery does fail, I may just replace it. I'd like to see how many miles I can get out of this car, just for fun. It is, after all, an old friend now. It carries a lot of stuff while using very little gas.

Easy for you to say. Somebody like me, not so much. I thought it was very helpful. Now that i think about it, i bought that AllData or something like it but don't use it much since it uses a VM to load an image file.

@@woodstream6137 I think my pump is bad. I'm putting on a new one now. Have to take apart everything again. The problem is the scan tool relearn is stopping halfway. No blinking . So I'm going to change pump and try again.

@@riddlescom good luck

@@woodstream6137 Still wo t clear. Unlearned linear .. Scanner stop blink at 62 seconds. Not sure what's going on.

1345 and 1368. Linear solenoid. Only codes. No check engine. Just abs light on.