It's like you have to be millionaire to afford everything that you guys recommend.
@davidcovington9012 жыл бұрын
$1000 or $10,000, there are many who will drop the first on a rifle and the second on a fishing boat, each with considerable future expenses. High-end camera, a nice cruise, second home, second car, motorcycle, kitchen remodel, I see disposable income choices pretty often. If it's a DINK fam, that helps a lot.
@gentlemansgazette2 жыл бұрын
Fortunately not! :) While the bespoke pair of shoes would have cost its original buyer around $10,000 to be made, we bought them secondhand for a small fraction of that price. Indeed, buying vintage is a great way to find high-quality items at affordable prices, if you know what to look for. Check out the link for more information. Thanks for watching! - Preston www.gentlemansgazette.com/get-80-percent-off/?
@AS-ri1mb2 жыл бұрын
Well it ain’t called the Peasant Gazette
@jeremysnead92332 жыл бұрын
@@gentlemansgazette cobler reaction video of this
@dinonugget71142 жыл бұрын
@@davidcovington901 you cant use that in this argument they are shoes.
@Heitstuff2 жыл бұрын
Raphael was making me so nervous the way he was using that knife and then when the crowbar slipped I audibly gasped lol
@metallicuda77012 жыл бұрын
Same reaction.
@QuestforaMeaningfulLife10 ай бұрын
He seemed to be making the same gesture with the box cutter as with the crowbar. Glad it was the crowbar that slipped!
@cchgn2 жыл бұрын
22:30, they used to put horse or pig hair in the glue to strengthen it. Today they put fiberglass and call it Tiger Hair, used mostly in marine (boats, watercraft) application
@RWonline2 жыл бұрын
Though I don't see myself ever having a pair of shoes worth 5 figures I always look forward to the videos from each member of the broadcast team. Not a classic, formal, or vintage guy, you've all taught me how a little attention here and there can help me compliment my wife, who always looks better anyway, when we go out, and make it seem as though I actually know what I'm doing. It really is amazing how differently people react to a guy who has paid a little attention to his details.
@johnny5stacks602 жыл бұрын
I honestly Will never understand why people pay that kind of money for something that goes on your feet and gets dirt and Filth and God knows what all over the bottom of it. Not to mention it gets sweaty, and why would you wear a paycheck on your feet?
@pankakotakismegalomavropou33552 жыл бұрын
Same here. I buy all my shoes used and just clean them up. I don't mind the coffee stains, mucus, blood and plasma on my clothes.
@msmlolmanpolybrige03352 жыл бұрын
@@johnny5stacks60 it lasts 10 times longer, but sometimes its just the brand so.
@newsomecac2 жыл бұрын
The material between the cork and outsole is most likely a crepe material. It’s purpose is to eliminate the squeaking that sometimes occurs.
@senseored2 жыл бұрын
There’s something inherently funny about watching Raphael use a crowbar to take apart a shoe.
@Reziac2 жыл бұрын
Now I want to see him put it back together. D
@LanguagesWithAndrew2 жыл бұрын
And, not surprisingly, he's not used to using such a tool and ends up injuring himself hahaha.
@entityaccount38762 жыл бұрын
@@LanguagesWithAndrew a cobbler he is not.
@jakublulek32612 жыл бұрын
Most professionals and craftsmen I know hurt themselves all the time. It is just part of the working with your hands.
@AverageNiceGuy Жыл бұрын
Yep, watching now 😎
@MrSmithers2 жыл бұрын
At first I though "ooh this looks like a fun gentlemens gazette video." But when Raphael actually started pulling these beautiful shoes apart.. well I need therapy now.
@watcherwlc532 жыл бұрын
it does seem a shame to destroy beautiful things and waste something that could be used.
@MrSmithers2 жыл бұрын
@@watcherwlc53 to be fare though, I'm sure Gentleman's Gazette made enough of off this video, or will over time to recoup the losses from taking apart these shoes.
@TheSwedishRider2 жыл бұрын
@@watcherwlc53 he didn't cut through the leather though, just disassembled the parts. I think a good cobbler can put them back together. I've seen some awesome repair videos by Trenton & Heath or Tring shoe repair. The bespoke $10.000 most likely needed to be adjusted anyway, as they were made for another person. I can also recommend the channel Rose Anvil. He actually destroys shoes by cutting them in half.
@watcherwlc532 жыл бұрын
@@MrSmithers Still I hope u feel better after seeing those shoes destroyed 😅
@watcherwlc532 жыл бұрын
@@TheSwedishRider Hopefully this will make the OP of this thread feel much better ☺😅
@Terrigan_Reina2 жыл бұрын
Have to put Raphael through the work safety training again :p
@Reziac2 жыл бұрын
He's training for a new career in demolition.:D
@ssj4kevin2 жыл бұрын
I know people are name-dropping Rose Anvil in the comments, but I feel like doing a collaboration with Trenton And Heath would be more appropriate for this channel.
@MPS1862822 жыл бұрын
The way that shank curved perfectly over Raphael's shoulder and around his head is about enough to make me believe in guardian angels. Too bad they weren't on duty for his hand!
@adambergstresser15152 жыл бұрын
The hand injury was a warning shot!
@DSjockey2 жыл бұрын
Sadly kind of what I expected, excellent video, I enjoyed it and no need to count nails
@viasartoria2 жыл бұрын
It appears that the RTW was John Lobb Paris (Hermès) while the bespoke was John Lobb London (Family owned). They don’t really have much to do with each other.
@NoBrakes232 жыл бұрын
It's almost like Raphael saw a Rose Anvil video and said, "hold my cognac!" I dig this.
@gentlemansgazette2 жыл бұрын
Actually, we had been talking about it when Antonio cut one open long before Rose Anvil. I just had to get all the tools first, and get started. Took a while, but now we're on a roll. Stay tuned for more...
@NoBrakes232 жыл бұрын
@@gentlemansgazette I hope those cobbler's tools get a little screen time. Fascinating stuff there.
@CrispyFrenFry2 жыл бұрын
@@gentlemansgazette I am just a grateful to you and other people/ organizations like you for sharing this kind of inquisitive journey. Doing so makes us all better informed consumers so we spend our money on products worth our time and labor.
@Reziac2 жыл бұрын
@@gentlemansgazette Might be interesting to see the inner construction of quality (and not so quality) clothing too, but _please_ don't sacrifice anything vintage to dissection! better would be to visit a maker of fine (or not so fine) clothing and see exactly what goes into it, and perhaps their explanation for each bit.
@MatthewJBD2 жыл бұрын
Rose Anvil makes some good stuff
@BasedCrusades2 жыл бұрын
Raphael bled for you. Leave him a like.
@ocean9112 жыл бұрын
I love videos like this that takes a peek behind the wizards curtains so to speak to see what actually is the difference between factory and bespoke products. I give you nod of respect too for sacrificing a little blood for the channel. :)
@Erik_Swiger2 жыл бұрын
This has been a welt of information.
@scottcarroll92012 жыл бұрын
Have to reset the "Days Without An Accident" sign at the Gentleman's Gazette studio back to zero.
@sunhuizart38212 жыл бұрын
I definitely recommend watching a few videos by Tring's Shoe Repair to learn how to take apart a shoe safely and efficiently ^ ^
@rolf23602 жыл бұрын
That 'mystery' hairy stuff which did puzzle Raphael such a great deal is actually tarred felt (as used in roof insulation) and is the generally used material by West-End shoemakers. Equally West-End shoes do not have additional shanks. If the waist is properly constructed and rounded (or fiddle backed) and the heel height is within the standard range for men's shoes, the waist cannot bend lengthwise which a shank has to prevent.
@zatarawood35888 ай бұрын
The absence of a shank was very interesting. Are you saying that if there is enough width through the waist it cannot flex a lot anyway so they can leave the shank out? I thought that even high street shoes usually carry some kind of (plastic) shank?
@harryvandevorst18122 жыл бұрын
Well done! And yes, very surprisingly outcome, with such a large difference we should expect a high quality product, but you showed us how we've been tricked by commerce. The good old fashion shoemaker is still the best: hand made shoes!
@Reziac2 жыл бұрын
Today I thought I'd arrived at Rose Anvil channel by mistake :) I think some of the tape bits are intended to prevent leather slippage while machine-stitching. Interesting how the bespoke shoe appears to be made from the inner custom fit on out, while the off-the-shelf shoe is more all one unit.
@mendesfamily6990 Жыл бұрын
Dude, You’re crazy! But thanks for dissecting the shoes. What I appreciate most is that you do it unrehearsed as if one of us laypeople. The education is priceless.
@greatarabia80912 жыл бұрын
This channel is absolutely amazing. The videos are very fun to watch and I've learned a lot. There are many things I saw on this channel that I was already doing but now I understand why those things have to be done. Etiquette.
@CrispyFrenFry2 жыл бұрын
This is such an informative series with GG’s combining your creative direction with excellent opportunities for creating educational content. I certainly can’t afford $10K shoes but it doesn’t mean I’m not interested in learning what goes into the price at the fundamental level. Some might view this series as wasteful but pursuit of knowledge isn’t wasteful when done with good intentions and certainly with class and wit, as GG always exhibits. Thanks for another great video.
@Marqblink12 жыл бұрын
Those little metal pieces at the beginning are nails that were hammered in, but then the heads were cut off.
@AlarmedJuggernaut82 жыл бұрын
I'm probably more bothered than I should be about how out of place that huge blue ring is in a dismantelling video... *edit extra word out
@williamcooke56272 жыл бұрын
I'd take off *any* ring before doing such handiwork.
@davidcovington9012 жыл бұрын
Such a good eye! I think this channel's hosts might approve. In the same vein, I got weary of the 35-minute rat-a-tat me-&-my-snare-drum background track, so switched to Closed Captioning. A little inconvenient, but better than artificial tinnitus. (Now I don't know what a "gem band" is!)
@MisterRorschach902 жыл бұрын
I’ve always wanted to make or have a pair of boots made that are a cross between running shoes, hiking boots, and combat boots, made with high end shoe making techniques and materials. Cordovan, cork, etc. but also with a Kevlar or dyneema layers for increased protection as well as composite sections in the most vulnerable parts.
@carltrotter76222 жыл бұрын
That was unique and amazing! Id love to see you take apart a canvassed suit vs a fused suit, I can imagine that would be much cheaper than this video! Wishing you a pleasant day, thank you for making mine! -Carl
@martincastez37672 жыл бұрын
really common material in the Westend school, it helps to keep wet from the ground out of the shoe
@stefanox89082 жыл бұрын
The nails holding the heel are flat because of the way they're hammered: the shoe is put onto a metal support and when the nails come in contact with the metal, the point crimps resulting in the odd shape
@billyzahid59042 жыл бұрын
5:29 - Fate had it so that the metal shank had to go past Raphael's head and not his eye... phew.
@dangaines4052 жыл бұрын
I left a like for this video because your team’s dedication. But cutting out two pairs of John Lobb’s was too painful to watch to the end…
@danielmiyahara3202 жыл бұрын
They're not worth the price, the video proves that
@BORIS21610 Жыл бұрын
Well one thing that those nearly all good shoe brands forget is insole having good leather archsupport insole with gel and ortholite will turn every beautiful leather sole into best sportshoes they should consider it
@lemat85582 жыл бұрын
...and now...we are looking forward to see you put them back together! This was interesting, and painful to watch!
@bucklberryreturns2 жыл бұрын
Is nobody dying to make a joke about Sven's big blue ring? Yeah, me neither.
@bittergreentea45502 жыл бұрын
You cut my soul a bit.
@AcapRoseknightDrummer2 жыл бұрын
as a boots/shoes aficionado, really appreciate the breakdown and explanation Raphael. You should collaborate with Rose Anvil. They love to tear down shoes/boots and analyse the construction too.
@williamcooke56272 жыл бұрын
14:00 In school in a test on 'Industrial Arts', I was asked 'A wrench makes a very good hammer True or False?" I answered 'False' and got my mark.
@DarkKar2 жыл бұрын
We're all explorers here, unearthing together all the secrets from the Golden Age of gentlemen.
@MSTRKRFTz2 жыл бұрын
23:39 *whispers* John lobb bespoke shoe 😂
@syntacticalcrab Жыл бұрын
Raphael, while I really appreciate and enjoy these videos where we get to see inside things we usually don't, I am truly astonished you haven't yet lost a finger or two, what with your tool handling practices. On the edge of my seat with every thumb-out yank of a prybar, here.
@ilias28412 жыл бұрын
The shank , is probably added to give the shoe rigidity and will propel you forward when walking . Very smart . Modern marathon running shoes have a similar shaped carbon plate , giving stiffness and the shoe recoils back after each stride . You can run long distances very fast without feeling fatigue … e.g Nike Vapor fly next % 2 , Nike Alpha Fly , Adidas adizero Adios pro 2 .
@SPNKr162 жыл бұрын
That's right, shoes need shanks. For someone such as myself who needs toe spring, I can't wear dress shoes every day. It's made me learn to wear sneakers/runners in co-ordination with my dress of choice; being a 70s - 90s nostalgia fanatic helps that.
@MrAlexplantfull2 жыл бұрын
There is a big misinformation about John-Lobb. JL Paris never ever made ready to wear shoes, that are actually made in the UK's factory in Northampton. JL bespoke shoes are made both in Paris (which is one of the most important bespoke shoes workshop in the world), and in London St Jaime's street, which is the "historical" John-Lobb's family workshop.
@jamesputterlik2252 жыл бұрын
If it interests you, there is a KZfaq that specializes in the dissection and examination of footwear in particular. Rose Anvil will bisect a shoe and examine the construction of a shoe from sole to tongue, and everything in between. Well worth checking out.
@amadejpesko2 жыл бұрын
Great informative video. PS: I really love that plant in the background. Where did you bought it?
@gentlemansgazette2 жыл бұрын
Nearly Natural
@amadejpesko2 жыл бұрын
@@gentlemansgazette Thank you so much for your answer.
@neiljones19382 жыл бұрын
Please do an analysis of Don Johnson's wardrobe/style as Detective Sonny Crockett in 1980s series Miami Vice, as there's been a recent sequel. I know this very famous series was before your time. We would love to hear your chaps's take on that. Your channel is very enjoyable, watching here in the UK 🇬🇧
@gentlemansgazette2 жыл бұрын
noted
@Reziac2 жыл бұрын
Oy, my eyes are bleeding just thinking about that!
@dimii272 жыл бұрын
2:19 something I never thought I would hear on this channel. But it seems like gentlemen are also human.
@newinspiration21082 жыл бұрын
good job! thank you for the extra steps you took to share the information! now let's watch you put them back together.
@itsnotimportant23382 жыл бұрын
Have you considered the idea of making a video about brooches?
@Deathbringer996992 жыл бұрын
Schneider.. der haarschnitt steht dir sehr gut! Macht dich dynamischer!
@pacol24812 жыл бұрын
So many near misses Raphael! 😶 Please remember eyes and fingers don’t grow back 😬. To be honest I could not finish watching the video 😵💫
@bpc6102 жыл бұрын
The eyes got me. I like Raphael and wouldn't want to see him get hurt.
@manolokonosko28682 жыл бұрын
How much do you think it actually cost John Lobb to make the ready to wear pair, and how much for the bespoke pair, including the salary of the person taking the measurements of the customer’s feet? Considering that John Lobb has standard procedures to follow to minimize time, costs, and maximize profit, I wouldn’t be surprised if the real cost is less than 25% of the price for the RTW shoe, The bulk of the profit going to the distributors. The real profit for JL is in the bespoke pair.
@darthkatzs2 жыл бұрын
John Lobb RTW and bespoke are actually not the same company. RTW is Hermes and Bespoke is still in the John Lobb family. It’s quite a complicated story, but don’t let the Lobb label fool you.
@anewaccountha22132 жыл бұрын
I have got to say that this was a beautiful looking video, maybe it's the colourgrading but the close up is very pleasing to watch and the editing is smooth. Great video production 👍
@craft-o-matic23772 жыл бұрын
It's called a heel rand Raphael. Fun video!
@cyrilhudak45682 жыл бұрын
Heel counter and Blind stitched sole
@ThomasKnip2 жыл бұрын
Suffering for the art of shoe demolition. ^^
@juliushauck39812 жыл бұрын
Tbh, even if I would have the money to buy bespoke shoes from John Lobb, I wouldn't. Of course there is indeed a lot of work and they are made with a lot of skill, but since I am not into names but into quality (and of course style) I am pretty sure I can find the same quality from a less known brand for a lower price from another craftsmen. Especially since I am living in germany italy isn't that far away, so I could get those shoes while saving enough money to be able to afford the vacation there with the saved money. Of course they are great and I understand where the price comes from, but are they really five times better than a bespoke shoe for 2000? I don't think so.
@zilaz2 жыл бұрын
Surely they aren't 5 times better than a 2000$ bespoke shoe, but thats really what top of the line is all about, perfecting nuances. I mean, can you really say that 2000$ bespoke shoes are 20x as good as 100$ either?
@juliushauck39812 жыл бұрын
@@zilaz there you've got a good point of course. But I can say that the differences are bigger between 2000$ besproke shoes and 100$ RTW shoes than they are between 10000$ bespoke John Lobb shoes and 2000$ bespoke shoes of a less famous shoemaker. Of course there is indeed a reason why John Lobb is that famous that he can take that much money, but you also do pay a lot for the brand itself. And I am not into names.
@richardwebb43742 жыл бұрын
Agreed. There are more and more incredibly talented independent shoemakers. Many of whom make shoes that approach John Lobb level of quality. Some of that fee is certainly for the John Lobb name.
@cyrilhudak45682 жыл бұрын
Bedo and the Potters make it look soooo easy. LOL
@kahlilhernandez71432 жыл бұрын
I'd say Raphael was using the wrong method and tools for the job - creating a safety hazard for himself.
@jacobsinger972 жыл бұрын
Raphael is just a soo sweet loove seeing him.
@soahdoll2 жыл бұрын
i have a huge crush on him hes so adorable
@IDR19612 жыл бұрын
What a nice way to destroy good value shoes and do not explain anything interesting related to the different construction methods. What kind of ignorance showed in this video. It is better to invite an expert to deconstruct properly those shoes and give proper explanations about materials, parts and quality.
@silveryau87822 жыл бұрын
Great job! Thank you for your analyzing and looking forward in GG shoes next time.
@vaibhavmishra23312 жыл бұрын
At 2:25 Coconut Husk, maybe?
@micheljean99712 жыл бұрын
A good idea would be to hire a cobler to open the shoes and explain the différences...
@MrMoonpie0012 жыл бұрын
Loved that Pinky Ring you had on. I am a Lapus stone fan. They have always been popular until the last 10 years or so. Can you share some information on that ring, where can I get one? Moonpie
@martincastez37672 жыл бұрын
the black sticky filler in the front part of the bespoke shoes is probably tar felt
@johnny5stacks602 жыл бұрын
Did no one show you how to use (or rather not use) an x-acto knife? You’re asking for that blade to fly into your eyeball!
@5t4n52 жыл бұрын
Me thinks a gentleman should invest in a decent pair of safety glasses before adventuring on any future "engineering" endeavours. You only got one pair of eyeballs.
@williamevans94262 жыл бұрын
I'm unsure whether the dismantled bespoke shoe was the one for the shorter leg but, if so, perhaps the 'horse hair mixture' and foam inserts to the sole were, like the thicker heel, to compensate for the leg length discrepancy?
@libertariancapitalist2 жыл бұрын
I’d like to see you guys cutting into a Meermin Linea Maestro shoes
@Offensive_Username2 жыл бұрын
Next video: vintage workwear.
@truth_prevails55842 жыл бұрын
If I had that much money I would have never watched this cobbling work😀😀
@SimonTBam2 жыл бұрын
I believe that John Lobb Paris' shoes are made in Northampton, England. There are still plenty to choose from being as Loake, Barker, Church's, Trickers, Cheaney, Crockett & Jones etc. So although they are based in Paris their shoes are made in England. Obviously John Lobb bespoke shoes are made in England. And are a tad pricey.
@karldelavigne81342 жыл бұрын
You're right. John Lobb Paris also has a large bespoke atelier in Paris. I think their RTW shoes from Northampton are not as good as Edward Green.
@zatarawood35888 ай бұрын
Why did the bespoke shoe not have a shank? Is that normal?
@lizcademy48092 жыл бұрын
Paging Nicole Rudolph [Shoe maker and designer for American Duchess historical shoes. She sometimes makes shoes on her channel ]
@darkfender01542 жыл бұрын
"gentleman-ly suffering for knowledge"
@Eloign2 жыл бұрын
I’m glad you survived that lol holy moley man be careful!!
@cyrilio2 жыл бұрын
fascinating
@lesleylesley58212 жыл бұрын
You might want to wear some leather gloves or work gloves when doing this. Beautiful ring in the first half.
@thomasflanagan87542 жыл бұрын
Omg that metal thing was so close to his face he could have lost an eye...
@un.garcon2 жыл бұрын
Raphael you are awesome! Please don't count the nails on video though ;) I own several pairs from Shoepassion and would really like it if you would dissect a pair of boots from them! (their boots are 360 GYW)
@lanceroparaca14132 жыл бұрын
Dude. Seriously its disgusting to see you destroy such fine stuff.
@TanyaRadic Жыл бұрын
Wow !
@anonymousotter64552 жыл бұрын
I enjoy cobblers cutting shoes apart, but regular people cutting shoes apart is just too dangerous and even disrespectful.
@richardjones382624 күн бұрын
hey great vlog, whats the name of that shoe tool you were using. Juhaptergee
@antonioricardoscozze24172 жыл бұрын
Yes, but can you put them back together now? ;)
@JonathanWrightZA2 жыл бұрын
How to break all health and safety rules when using a knife...🤣
@podolanko72 жыл бұрын
Now put thee back together
@jamesmosley86752 жыл бұрын
Well, what you have illustrated is that John Lobb shoes are incredibly overrated.
@EtsuMatsuya2 жыл бұрын
Yes, a name brand is always going to be overrated for the price. When you pay for the name and not the product then be prepared to pay though the nose.
@RootsRockRebelАй бұрын
He proved no such thing. What did you expect? That they made the shanks out of carbon fiber or had diamond encrusted nails holding on the heels? Ripping apart the shoes doesn't demonstrate how well they fit and it doesn't demonstrate how well they stand up to wear over time--the two most important aspects of shoe quality. Raphael is a penny pincher and doesn't like high-end menswear products. Hence why he wears second-hand stuff he buys on eBay. He's pretty much the anti-thesis of Hugo Jacomet or Kirby Allison.
@danbee4152 жыл бұрын
Could you do a video on burning $10,000 in a fire to see what it's made out of?
@gentlemansgazette2 жыл бұрын
Will it blend?
@askmeanything13652 жыл бұрын
@@gentlemansgazette *Yellow doesn't blend, that's the color of chicken.* *Only a fool spends $10,000 dollars on shoes. Do you have a soul ?*
@davidcovington9012 жыл бұрын
@@askmeanything1365 Well fire the shoemakers and their sales crew. Fire everyone who works in an industry that makes a product that you personally disapprove of. That's good for the economy, I bet. To have more people impoverished, the poor get poorer. Furthermore, those with more money to spend, will have nothing to spend it on. So, their bank accounts grow, so the rich get richer. No, wait ....
@MatthewHilbertsBaritone2 жыл бұрын
@@askmeanything1365 If hyper inflation happens again you just might get that chance.
@1okanaganguy2 жыл бұрын
5:29 - Living on The Edge.
@aglees2b2 жыл бұрын
You almost got "shanked"! Close escape
@greyareaRK12 жыл бұрын
A little painful to watch, but very instructive. I watch a cobbler occasionally tear down expensive shoes, but it's always in the process of restoring them.
@mbojimore8710 Жыл бұрын
This video is good need to wear glove n safety equipment before tier thing apart..all the best boss
@MrBloopt2 жыл бұрын
This video needs an ASMR tag too!
@stephenlegg2622 жыл бұрын
Would love to have seen Raphael wearing a morning suit when making this video.
@Wladislav2 жыл бұрын
Somehow I knew there was going to be an injury as soon as you started.
@stephenscott5304 Жыл бұрын
While a John Lobb bespoke shoe is an incredible shoe, $10,000 for the pair is, in my opinion, grossly overpriced.
@Bigwave20032 жыл бұрын
"One, two, three ... quite a few nails."
@seiko93612 жыл бұрын
Wao that was destructive
@ApricusInaros2 жыл бұрын
Great job. Interestiing to see this. My most expensive dress shoes I own are only 550 bucks. Also a beautiful ring. Where do you have it from?