This video isn’t essentially a cheap suit spotting guide but rather an expensive suit spotting guide. It’s more for vintage/outlet shopping.

Firstly, love the video. Just want to add that Machine made are not always bad. Often, having the seams done (well) with machine means you have a very consistent garment that will not cost 5,000. While horn is better, SOME plastic buttons can be very good. The one thing that consistently make a cheap suit apparent is the poly material and fused construction - IMO of course.

The way he says "cheeeap" makes you feel even more broke than you truly are. smh

I might be wrong, but isn't the cheap price the first sign of a cheap suit?

Your suit doesn't have to be hand made with only the finest materials. Remember, fit is the #1 rule. When I go to the thrift stores in my town, I don't look at the stitching, I look at the fit. Why? Because fit is key. Don't even worry about that other stuff.

As expected from this channel, this is superb and spot on. I'm a female, I don't wear suits, I make them, it's wonderful to have our craft appreciated. Properly made garments cost more, that's life. The dbl. breasted Merino suit is amazing, only specific strains of the Merino breed are capable of producing the extremely fine microns required for such work. The breeders who manage it are a master of their craft, much like the tailor who made this suit! *I grew up on a merino stud farm in Australia

Thanks so much. I got a quality suit from a thrift store, with the help and advice of this video. Keep up the good work.

The height of the arm holes is a great way of finding a cheap suit too. Lower cut arm holes fit more people and make the suit cheaper to manufacture.

Basically cheap is machine made. Expensive is handmade. Who cares if its machine or man made? As long as it fits you nicely and looks good.

When I was making a lot of money I had the four figured priced suits both custom and off the rack tailored. There is a big difference in feel and wear. I owned one suit where the fabric feel was so astounding I never felt that quality on any suit ever since. I do own lesser quality that looks great as well. If you're poor you buy what you can afford. At least you have pointed out what to look for in a quality suit.

I like this channel! However, these comments about "cheap & expensive" suits are really mostly irrelevent? you cannot afford a tailor made suit? , hand sewn seams! usually machine made is much better (except maybe the interlings, hand sewn in is very good, I know). The only things that matters are :- 1. Does the fabric look & feel nice? 2. Does it fit nicely? 3. Does it look good, on you 4. Can you afford it?

My mother is a tailor and this gentleman's observations are spot on. She will have me check these things at the store to ensure I'm purchasing the best suit. Also it makes it easier for her to tailor it to me.

One thing I don’t enjoy when it comes to this channel is that he always connects price with how good it will look. I’ve seen plenty of budget outfits look really good and quite frankly, some of this guys suits don’t look the best although they cost a pretty penny

How to tell if a suit is cheap or not: It's cheaper than the expensive suit.

All these people moaning will probably come back under the cover of night next time they need to buy a suit 😂

Why does machine stitched mean cheap. I have few expensive branded machine stitched suits. Doesn’t make sense to me.

I noticed you have a collar gap, indication of an ill fitting suit.

This video help me so very much. I found a Black, Loro Piana cashmere sport coat for $4 at a goodwill. I went home and looked up the retail price, and I was blown away by how expensive it was brand new. It is my first Cashmere coat I have owned, and I am in love with it.

Thank you very much for posting this video Raphael! As a young man on a budget this video helped me out a lot and I appreciate that you explained the difference in collar stitches.

The problem with knowing all this is that you realize how little quality stuff there is out there... you'll never want to take an off-the-rack suit ever again. Or worse, you get angry at brands like Hugo Boss that charge hundreds of euros for a suit with nonworking cuffs, machine made and some even have polyester.... Get a grip!

If this was called "How to identify a handmade/bespoke/tailored suit" the comments would most likely be less heated. Repeatedly saying "cheap" as an implication of low(er) cost and quality will not win over most people that would be interested in watching this. I doubt guys with bespoke Italian suites are scanning KZfaq for handy hints on what others look for. Secondly: many points, while valid, are not useful in most situations. Inspecting threadwork is not needed when I'm going to get a suit. If I'm getting an off the shelf suite, I'm not expecting hand stitching. If I'm getting a bespoke 5k suite ...I still don't care as they will make it look and fit well - however they get that done is up to them. The most applicable place for these rules to possibly apply is going to a second hand/thrift shop - which you admitted to doing in this video. You can certainly make an argument that you got an "expensive" suit "cheaply" but your mixing definitions to fit your argument and inconsistency doesn't build credibility. The points about the lining and being aware of mixed materials were good. Thought this would cover the different wool types - which would be one of the most obvious things to look for, yet wasn't there. You have useful information and a wealth of knowledge and it is appreciated. Please be aware that language matters and the people on the internet are not in your store. Wearing an expensive, costly suit does not make you important or rich and doesn't get you respect (especially if your having to flip your collar over so people know it's bespoke). The wealthiesth people I know rarely wear suits. Food for thought...

I've watched this video a few times, and I just now checked the comments. I took this video differently than many of you, and I believe Raphael may have been misinterpreted here, so let me explain how I took this information. . . A lot of the negativity with this video is with regards to the financial limitations of the buyers, and I assure you I understand. I'm a college student, so I don't have very much disposable income. It seems that my fellow viewers are upset and feel that Raphael is attacking those of us without money, however I feel that he is helping us to spot quality second-hand. I use this information when thrift shopping looking for a great suit, and while this isn't the end-all guide because personal fit and style are important as well, I found this video incredibly helpful when looking for used suits that fit my budget without buying newer, lower quality suits. I hope this has helped some, and if not, at least I can feel as though I was helpful 😂.

Yours are most informative style videos on KZfaq Raphael. I’ve got to get one of those gorgeous pocket squares!

Thanks, I almost bought a Haggar with 64% polyester lining. No wonder it sells for it costs $269.00 but $88.00 on "flash sale."

i have a serie of vitale barberis dress pants, wool/flanel, summer and winter, they are among the best, once you go there, theres no turning back, really.

It is so cool that this wisdom is now available to all - I learned all of this from my father, suits, blazers, sport coats, shoes, brands, belts, braces, suspenders, cedar shoe trees, rotation of your wardrobe, ties, knots, collars types, trench coats, overcoats, hats, scarves, gloves, watches, etc

He is giving information for people who want to know! If you don’t care about high quality then shut up! Quit taking out your insecurities on this guy! He is simply sharing knowledge!

I always order top part of my suit from my mom, so I got perfect fit all the time, perfect color, fabric and buttons. Sewed by machine, it's way cheaper than branded suits from the store, but quality is far better than anyone I've seen out there.

If I consistently upheld stringent standards to this level, I wouldn't have any dress clothes. Most men I see these days dress like bums- faded jeans, dirty sneakers and old baseball caps. What's a little comical about such high standards as 'Gentleman's Gazette' is that nowadays the vast majority of men have extremely low standards in clothing! Don't even get me started on the women these days going around in pajamas! I understand what Sven is out to accomplish with this video though. I recommend buying new and vintage men's clothing with classic style, and avoid what's fashionable in the moment. Pick colors and a cut that suit's your body shape and complexion. Be efficient and buy the minimum that can be easily paired together. Again, avoid fashion fads! I recommend getting used to wearing sport coats and wool pants before moving on to suits. You're gonna want some decent quality dress shoes for a suit, those cheap plastic looking "dress" shoes from Wal-Mart or eBay direct from China are gonna bring down any suit.

I want to dress well but not break the bank or the environment. With videos like these, going vintage becomes a lot easier.

I couldn't watch the video after reading the headline. I couldn't give two hoots if someone is wearing a cheap suit or an expensive one, the piont is they have presented themselves the best they can afford, that speaks volumes

I love the suit you are wearing in this video, you inspired me to get a similar one.

I keep asking myself why I'm so addicted to these videos seeing as how I don't really care about the subject matter enough to put it to practice I mean honestly I don't care enough about dressing in a suit to spend a ton of money I mean why spend $1,000 on something I'm going to wear once or twice over the next two decades. I'll take a cheap suit it'll work for what I need it for

Great video as usual! I would suggest pinching the fabric right below the top button. That is because nowadays you can find fused suits with a floating chestpiece inside, and pinching at the chest might give the impression of a canvas suit.

Thousands of years of human evolution and ingenuity allowed for us to create fantastic automated machines that can sew and stitch with greater precision, efficiency, and uniformity than any human craftsman; just for these snooty suit connoisseurs to call them "lower" quality and prefer an irregular old-fashioned human stitch.

Interesting video but the chance of me finding a good-looking, high-quality, hand-made suit which fits me in a thrift shop is zero.

I would add one more thing, the lapel. From my experience at least, I could see that better suits have a nice rolling lapel whereas cheaper ones seems it got folded and pressed...looks really bad

Raphael: I appreciate your information that you provide in your videos but in this case I believe that you're off the mark with this one because "cheap" suits are usually worn by poor people and poor people have enough problems without stuff like this making them feel worse because they can't afford great quality clothes. The fact that a poor person is willing to make the effort to try to dress better makes a statement. Maybe you should make a video for people that can't afford top quality suits and shoes?

Just found your site. Excellent. Also depressing because apparently all of my suits are cheap. Information that was never given to me. Will start remedying that.

A key sign for any poorly made clothes, suits especially, are when the stitching and seams are crooked and uneven. They won’t lie flat, and make it look very cheap. Machine or hand made, they should always lie flat and be even.

As much as I agree with what you are saying and I think the information is priceless we all can't afford Zegna or other high end brands. I can't pay 2000 or more for my suits. Although, every one that I own is perfectly tailored to my size. Fortunately, I have a local tailor that doesn't overcharge for his services.

A good suit, properly fitted is worth every penny.

Totally agree with the video! Greetings from Italy.

I love how you say the word, cheap. A sense a great condescending tone. Lovely.

i have a question, you talk about cheap vs expensive, hand-made vs machine, but the real question is how a machine-sewed suit is worst than a hand-made one? i get that cheap buttons are worst, polyester lining and general cheaper materials are worst, but why machine sewing should be worst?

I appreciate information on distinctions like these from an educational standpoint, but "cheap" seems an overstatement. For those who enjoy indulging in fine clothing as a hobby, I don't begrudge them the right to spend their disposable income as they wish, but even for those of us with reasonable incomes and reasonably good taste, it's simply not practical to spend money on bespoke. To each his own, I suppose - I just bristle at the characterization of all machine made/mass market menswear as "cheap".

Thank you can you make a pdf with this information so we can take it with us when buying suits

Yea and Nay! A lot of this is pretty superficial and it fails to present concerns regarding the overall appearance of a suit. For me, the first indicator of a cheap suit is lack of balance in the pattern. Misaligned plaid, check, houndstooth or even the weave of a solid colored suit. Nothing disturbs my eye so much as these do. This is the thing I look for immediately! If the pattern is misaligned it's instantly out of consideration for purchase. I have other concerns, many the same as or similar to those discussed in this video but many of them will not stop me buying a suit so long as the most basic - balance, construction, material quality -are in good order. I also consider my likely intended purpose for the suit - sartorial presentation or utility (weather, dirty work, cat-burglary, back-alley knife-fighting, grave digging, etc.)

Basically u told how to differentiate handmade suit from machine made suit. Not all machine made suits are cheap.

I’m allergic to silk (makes my skin itch like crazy). Good thing I was born a female and can wear cotton or synthetics, of which there is a wide range. BTW, these videos are all great

Whenever I need some real theory & science about style, I come to this channel. Wonderful video and such a good quality content !

Great vid! Looking forward to the sequel to this. How to spot a cheap suit: on other people.

Agree with you for everything except hand-sewing on the buttons and on the back of the neck , I found normal human craftsmanship make these lining imperfect in all way , so I would opt in for expensive line with these made by Machine and durability , also regularity makes it aesthetic looks and neat on modern man . For the rest of the hidden part , especially on the wrist , classic hand sewing will make wearer at most comfortable.

How does one dress if all you can afford a cheap suit?

Lol im 6'4", why did i watch this, theres not a vintage store in the world that has my size...

Why don't you do a video about 'How to sit down with a suit and double-breasted suit' or something like that, I think it should be very interesting/helpful. :)

I find you videos most interesting about gentlemen's style. I'm as a woman can't stop watching them.

Good stuff - I thought I'd check though, I believe suit trousers should come down over the back of the shoe slightly, the sock should not be visible from behind

I disagree with horn buttons being used on expensive suits. I've come across suits at Hugo Boss, Massimo Dutti, Ermenegildo Zegna, Giorgio Armani, Versace that costs at least $500 up to $2-3000 that have plastic buttons attached on their cuffs. Not sure how expensive you really mean, but $500 for an entry level suit made of 100% wool is considered expensive to me.

If you have enough money, just order a bespoke suit; otherwise, buy a machine-made brand name suit and do some alternation at local tailors. The latter is the most economic way to get a suitable suit.

Horn button??!! Well first i thought by cheap you mean low quality suit but now i think its not just luxorious.

You shouldn't button the lowest button, even on a 6x2. It signifies that you should button the middle one. Same with a 4x2.

I make faced/bound button holes. They look nicer than any button hole that is surrounded by stitching.

Honestly machine made has less human error But than again those people are professional Tailor's So I'm on the fence with this

The thing that irritates me about online suits, are those with garish orange buttons that just taunt you from afar as soon as you see them. They look ridiculous.

Yeah I'd like to see how much you spend on suits, I don't have $3000 for a hand made suit.

The difference between a cheap suit or a expensive suit is what you can afford. The difference between a drapper or a douch bag is by a mama's boy haircut.

If your suit is not made out of Cotton, Linen, Silk, Wool or Cashmere, the lining not made out of Cupro or Viscose and the construction is not unstructured, half canvassed or full canvassed.. You're probably wearing a cheap suit and need to find an upgrade ASAP.

What really makes the price of a suit cheap is what you can't see. The construction underneath. The type of chest pieces used. The types of shoulder padding. The lack of corner cutting in seam work as well. Also the way the suit fits.

I have a cheap suits apparently, but I have nice ties, shirts and pocket squares. My suit is also well tailored and I have the classic black suit and grey suit, so I think I'm good.

Useful information but why don’t your trousers fit?

Interesting and helpful. It was strange though hearing about hand stitched button holes being an asset because the no.1 thing my sister wanted for Christmas was a button hole attachment for her sewing machine. She showed me the difference and the hand-done one looked sloppy. It seemed you would have to do a ton of stitches to duplicate what a machine can do. I guess the tailors who make those suits have a lot of dexterity and patience.

It's the man who makes the clothes, not the clothes that make the man. A smile and self-confidence work wonders.

When he says machine made, he means there is little humanity in it. The imperfections in the sewing is caused by the person not staying exactly consistent in speed, distance, and more. That does not mean the quality is bad. It just means that a human touched it during that area at all times. You can use a sewing machine, but have a human operate. You can also have a human move a 50 foot by 100 foot long pice of fabric rolled into a machine and have a human not touch it until they go to put it on a truck. That is the difference between man and machine.

If the collar felt is machined sewn instead of hand sewn, it doesn't exactly mean that it's a BAD suit does it? Wouldn't certain aspects of a suit that are machine sewn be better/more durable than hand sewn? I understand that the fully hand-sewn suit would be more expensive because it is more time-consuming, but not exactly BETTER. Please let me know if otherwise.

Very useful video. Not just for men, but for anyone who is looking into investing into high quality clothing items. Great indicators for whether or not you're getting your money's worth.

Nothing wrong with cheap suits. I believe in putting the maximum effort in within your budget. Wearing a “cheap” suit is better than no suit at all. Plus... people don’t care. It’s the effort not the price.

Way to go to make me feel bad in my Woolworths suit 🤣 But yes, my Woolworths suit is cheap. "100% polyester lining and out material" is pretty unambiguous.

How to spot a cheap haircut

So this guide is more for handmade vs machine made.

Goodwill . Coach dusty baker suit jacket. Price 14.99 hand man’s with wool and silk lining . Must be a $500 jacket or more !

Is Tiger of sweden a good brand for suits? Thanks

I honestly enjoy these videos keep it up.

I wpuld have to diagree. I have an 80 dlls suit that looks and feels like an 800dlls suit i had so many complements. Its not about how expensive or inexpensive, its about if you have the body to fit that suit

I've found this channel useful and entertaining. Thanks.

You are so knowledgable and informative. How did you come to learn these things about style and behaviour?

Unfortunately, I'm a big guy and have to get my suits mostly from DXL Mens Apparel and high-end suits are extravagantly expensive in my size due to the extra fabric used. I mostly wear Oak Hill brand blazers and sports jackets. I try to make them look better with higher-end accessories.

Today I was looking at a Zegna Trofeo 3 piece suit which to me is not a cheap suit but It had a 100% rayon lining.. is that a bad sign?

Remember, An unconfident man wearing an expensive suit will always look worse than a confident man in a cheap suit.

I seriously don’t understand why machine stitching bad, now I don’t own any suits more expensive than 500 bucks and mostly wear blazers, so please explain to me. Machine stitching is more symmetrical and consistent and I’d argue looks better on the cuffs ( maybe not so much in the collars) and logically must be more reliable, so what is the issue with it. Is it just an ethical thing of supporting craftsmanship or is it the aesthetically preference, I can understand a view on suits as pieces of art in which case being more hand made can be somewhat meaningful, but if there is no practical reason then I don’t see what all the fuss is about

Hi gents. I don't know if you care for TV but I have been watching Hannibal on Amazon. What draws me to the programme is the excellent suits that he wears and he always wears at least 3 per episode. Would you consider doing a review on what you think of them?

The trousers of the suit you are wearing are too short.

A well dressed man can spot quality and price is not always an indicator of quality. If the seller is unaware of style and quality they will not know how to price. Handmade is always more, but cheap can be nice.

I found this like new navy pinstripe 2 piece suit at the goodwill for 12 bucks. It fit perfect all the way to the cuff break. The jacket fit like it had my name on it. I had it cleaned and bought shoes and socks as per Svens instruction. I also got a yellow Donald Trump tie to go with it as well as a slightly contrasting cotton shirt. I thought I was cruzin'. But after watching this video..........damn..... I got a cheap suit.. that fits great.

Can't a cheap suit be a nice suit? I get that a more expensive one will most likely last longer, but a cheaper suit can still be nice, no?

Make sure it says Canali on it, and you should be fine. :) Not even necessary where they are made, because all Canali products are made in Italy.

Nice video. Always learning from them. I think I have a couple items with corozo buttons. I was about to replace the buttons since I mistook them for plastic. Maybe keep them now.

I love this, lovely video

9:28 I'm sure that's a nice suit, but it needs to be tailored. A well-tailored cheap suit looks better than a poorly-tailored expensive suit any day. Good information in the video.

How come you buttoned the bottom button? Isn't that one supposed to be undone?