God damn, Fender putting foot in ass

PRS being a tenth of Fender is wild. Thats a lot of squire starter packs...

If your mom raised you to be an asshole, then she was a resounding success.

@@dcflake5645 Yeah and I wonder how big Jackson really is considering outside us fans no one seems to know about them anymore.

Wow i thought the numbers would be much bigger!?

They still do some of the custom shop stock in nitro from mexico. Usually have a few designs per season in andertons for about a grand.

Mexico has easier pollution laws

how are you measuring resonant frequencies asking as a home luthier

Thinning with alcohol?

@@rvaguitars Recommended thinner for the two pack.

@@rickmccl71 Studio condenser mic. Hang the parts up, hit with a rubber mallet. Bung into DAW and look at the spectrum peaks and troughs. I normally do multiple necks at a time and try to marry them up with the bodies. It's a bit suck it and see but the dead frequencies are really obvious when the parts don't marry up.

Peavey attempted to remedy the spraying drawbacks with the technique used for their T Series guitars by essentially using a sort of powder coating method and actually the finishes on those guitars are really nice. Toughness of polyurethane but not the inherent plasticky feel or look. Trying what you're suggesting would be interesting and probably does work really well for all the reasons you mentioned

You want to sell the original neck?

@@marcaustin yeah probably

Poly is essentially plastic epoxy. A lot of import guitars have it because by the time it gets from Asia to literally anywhere else on the planet, the guitar will have gone through just about every imaginable climate and temperature imaginable and also because the ride isn't going to be like it's riding on the back seat of a Cadillac Eldorado. It has to be pretty much a rock hard finish to withstand transportation and handling both during the shipping but also to be able to withstand floor damage at the store it ends up in.

@@neilpatrickhairless Thanks for your detailed explanation of poly finish. Can I assume from your answer that poly is indeed better at resisting temperature and humidity changes than nitrocellulose?

Cicaplast Hand Cream my friend.

Vaseline or O'keefes

Also more cardio at gym

Drink more water. Internal hydration helps with skin hydration.

Hahahaha that's a great question

Because taking a piece of four aught to it once costs a couple of pennies once and using toxic talcum powder on it every time you play it is going to cost you several dollars every time your baby powder bottle runs out. Plus you can use the four aught to clean the fingerboard and polish the frets as well while you're at it.

Do it about once a year and save the baby powder for the baby asses

(though that's not even recommended because apparently it's not exactly healthy to put talc anywhere on a person's body)

They look great and play great but their sound is gesound that really doesn’t sound unique,unlike fenders or Gibson.

I meant to say generic and really nothing special, I did own a PRS and sold it for a strat!

If you bought an Epi, you deserve polyurethane. 🤣 I keeeeeed.

Won't crack as easily either

Keep it away from windows or in its case if you want it to stay white. Sunlight will make it yellow regardless of whether or not it is nitro or poly because the sun is the devil and ruins everything. Got a lot of guitars with white plastics that turned cream/tan, Black LP Custom style guitars where the parts of the white binding covered by clear coat started turning cream/yellow, etc. because the only place I could fit a multi-guitar stand was near a window. Said window had black blinds, but still let in some sunlight.

@@Run-Riot This right here. Poly may not yellow as fast, but it WILL still yellow eventually.

Nice!!

my rare Sun Dew Gold Ibanez Pia in poly f'ing rocks. Everything about it rocks. If it was nitro ? The feel would have been different and it would have been just for you ? deal or no deal ? no deal.

Fender road worn are made in Mexico and have relic nitro finish

@@Ashley-oi8cj ah, didn’t know it was nitro

Hahahahaha I still don't understand what would make them that expensive. Hot hide glue is what they use to glue together every single skateboard deck produced out of multiple plies of maple. It's not a premium hard to find or hard to apply product whatsoever in any shape or form. Guitar companies just like charging people premium prices for random reasons like the whole koa wood nonsense. Koa wood is cheap hardwood that grows like weeds and Gibson charges people thousands extra for it because someone saw a picture of Eric Clapton playing a guitar made out of it half a century ago.

Like Ash wood... Charging more for Ash wood when you can buy Hackwood which is identical in every single way for ¼ of the price of a piece of Ash. Anyone who has a basic layman's understanding of manufacturing and materials acquisition probably is wondering why Gibson charges people over 2 grand to carve a piece of wood and apply plastic binding to it and very little else that would require a major amount of time or effort o expense on the manufacturer's part.

Though to be fair, I would personally charge someone several grand to even bother attempting to wire a semi hollow guitar so that's probably the only other labor time or expense intensive process in the entire shop.

@@neilpatrickhairless It sets up really fast. Titebond if you get the neck wrong you can move it around. That's why nobody uses it. There's little margin for error. I'm just stating that's what they charge. I was shocked myself. But if you believe it's important Gibson Custom Shop uses it exclusively.

And after getting videos pushed on my KZfaq feeds that talk about some blue core (and S2) PRS finishes fading, it'd be interesting to hear what caused that and if it's been solved.

polyester is another.

No, not at all. Nitro finishes are inferior. The nitro that was used on vintage instruments was banned by the EPA in 1975. The nitro being using today is reformulated, restricted, and not the same stuff. There's also a ton of marking BS surrounding nitro somehow being more legit for serious instruments. When you spray nitro, 70% of the product consists of toxic solvents that evaporate. What's left is a thin, fragile finish that never fully cures. To do it right, you need to build up several thin layers. Gibson, for example, lays it on thick, in order to save time. This is why many folks have been complaining about the sticky feel of Gibson necks. Nitro finishes continually off-gas for years (has a sweet bar soap smell). This is neurotoxic and can affect the endocrine system as well as development of children's neurological systems. With that, I would not have a nitro guitar next to my bed or in my kids' room. There is no tone difference between poly and nitro. There has been no credible A/B tests using a DAW. Any perceived difference is placebo. Yes, nitro is easier to relic. This is a totally different topic. There's a running joke of doctors and lawyers buying custom shop relic guitars so they can give the impression thay have a lot more playing time invested than they actually do. Folks, save yourself the hassle and go for more modern finishes. If not for your health, then for your family?

It just makes your guitar get dirtier faster lol. I have a custom with nitro. I usually don't care about that but I wanted to try it just to have an experience. Nothing special.

No. Nitro is a very fragile finish. It's great for those that believe in tonewoods and pay extra for relic'ed guitars, because over time the nitro rubs off so people think this helps the guitar vibrate more. In the real world, any thin finish will sound exactly the same. Nitro affects the playability of a guitar by being incredibly sticky. I far prefer thin poly in older PRS or Tokai's nitro/poly mix which are nice and smooth, durable, and does not hinder the loud acoustic vibrations of an electric guitar

It's all hype

yes

If it was more expensive you would

Sherwin Williams makes Krylon. Many Krylon colors match 50’s Fender Colors for some odd reason.

I agree with them, I think that you are a nobody

buy a Solar equiv. I've 5, never looked back and i play blues, not metal.

@@PeterMoore350 I have a Solar. They are good yes. But that is not what the comment was about. It was about how terrible Fender is with their QC

@@doyouluvit that's my point bro. Solars, well at least the ones you and i buy, are made in Indonesia. Quality is awesome. Again i have 5 Solars. I had 6, sold one to pay medical bills, sadly. Trogly, bless him and i love his channel as it's so educational keeps apologising for Gibsons which are black and all their swirls and blemishes and you get that with black Gibsons, to paraphrase. My PRS SE Tremonti single cut gloss black also made in Indonesia 2020 is/was flawless. Polishing flaws ? Swirls ? Nope. Flawless. Poly ? yep. Anyone that wants nitro ? boom. nitro glycogen joke there QC ? yes, that's where i was too. "Buy a Solar" no QC issues. Ptr

@@doyouluvit fair enough. I’ve a 2020 Squier Affinity Strat HSS. Black with the sparkly pick guard. Made in China. I bought it as a project guitar in January 2021 but it’s so damn good all I’ve done is change the strings!! The shop basically pulled it out of their warehouse, no setup no need!! Just the strings needed changing as i mentioned 😍 Cheers from NZ 😎🎸🤘

you're paying for the labour that it takes to actually get nitro right. It's a crap finish, they did it on the cheap in the 50's to keep costs down vs Fenders back then. Poly is ubiquitous now. They could even get robots to paint the guitars, but knowing Gibson the entry point is still gonna be $2 or $3 k which is unaffordable. IDGAF about nitro finishes as a Gibson tradition. Nor does anyone i know.

All Gretsch guitars are made by Fender. From the Gretsch wikipedia page: "In 2002, Gretsch entered a business agreement with Fender Musical Instruments Corporation. Under the terms of the agreement Fred W. Gretsch retains ownership while Fender has the exclusive rights to develop, produce, market and distribute Gretsch guitars worldwide."

You can do all of the above and the guitar will actually be able to breathe.

Some will argue that "it LeTs tHe WooD bReaThEe bro" or something

Agreed. You wouldn't want a nitro finish on your car, your fishing boat, nor your home. Only guitarists get dogmatic on a frankly inferior finish in hopes of faking a worn down instrument down the line.

@@deathdealer8185 It does.

@@crigonalgaming1258 how would it be fake if it's legitimate.

you know, you don't deserve Good things.

it predates plastic by 50+ years.

it's not meant to be durable, it's meant to seal the wood until your hand oils can finish the wood instead.

@@HunnysPlaylists A DuPont employee called Edmund Flaherty invented nitrocellulose lacquer in 1921. It really started out as an automotive finish. Nitrocellulose is dissolved in a solvent, which may comprise naphtha, xylene, toluene, acetone, various ketones, and plasticising materials that enhance durability and flexibility. The resulting liquid can be sprayed and the extremely volatile solvent thinner evaporates almost immediately, to leave behind a layer of nitrocellulose solids. The word ‘plasticiser’ sets alarm bells ringing for nitrocellulose die-hards. After all, if nitrocellulose is meant to be more beautiful and toneful than plastic poly finishers, wouldn’t putting a plasticiser in the nitro defeat the object? This is a misunderstanding, because plasticisers are not plastic. ‘Plasticity’ is defined as the ability to deform irreversibly without breaking. So placticisers are solvents that evaporate slowly over several years to prevent nitrocellulose from becoming too brittle. They don’t turn nitrocellulose into a ‘plastic finish’ because nitrocellulose is, after all, a type of plastic. My point was not to get into some discussion about tone or anything else. I was only trying to point out that modern finishes are more durable and practical. Not to mention easier to use. There are plenty of myths that we guitar players have been told repeatedly, often by trustworthy people, and don't really question. I have certainly went along with several. However, after checking some of these myths, finish type, tone capacitors, a couple hotly debated ones, I have found it is usually a good idea to dig a little deeper than just believing the urban legend. I'm not trying to start an argument, just trying to demystify a thing or two.

@@clarkgriffith5705 It's older than that, it's what the original picture film was made of.

Also, your "hand oils" aren't going to seal the wood, it's going to rot the wood. If you have bare open pore wood you need a natural oil finish like Danish/Linseed Oil or something. The oils on your skin are not nearly hard enough when dried to provide any type of durable finish whatsoever to wood. It's mostly going to clog the grain of the wood up with dirt and dead skin cells and varying degrees of moisture.