Another Blues Creek Guitars Video - here is a procedure for steaming out the neck and reset process.
Пікірлер: 94
@fordhammie Жыл бұрын
SHAZZAM!!! The only luthier to mention tension vs no tension measurements! This man knows what he's talking about! I also love the banter back and forth with the camera man! 😊
@edreynolds45877 жыл бұрын
Hey; I do complex guitar work for a lot of famous guys. I watch youtube stuff on occasion to see if I can pick up new tricks. Your video is well- explained and thorough. That's refreshing. It'll help a lot of budding repair people. Thanks.
@GraeneyMac4 жыл бұрын
Thank you, John, for sharing your time and expertise. Your assessment method at the beginning is great. Thanks for uploading, Glenn. "The noblest pleasure is the joy of understanding". (L. da Vinci)
@stephenquail31687 жыл бұрын
Alls I know is your the real deal.I have learned a lot from you .thanks so much.
@johnherbold54514 жыл бұрын
Thank you for that information!! That technique for seeing if a neck reset was needed or not was something I really needed to understand!! Let's face it: if you own a steel string guitar long enough, you'll eventually need a neck reset. But at least I'll now know when it's time to do it.
@xd451e1edcc88 жыл бұрын
Excellent video! You do an awesome job at sharing your expertise. Very much appreciated.
@LaSalle.ToneWorks8 жыл бұрын
+xd451e1edcc8 thanks again it is our pleasure. A special thanks to my friend Maury Rutch he shot this video . He has Maury's music
@jangrigsby74807 жыл бұрын
Thank you so much for your videos. I finally decided to take apart my first guitar: Yamaha FG150 and reset the neck, plus many other improvements! Your videos really helped a newbie like me! -J.G.
@zorzum6 жыл бұрын
I've a FG180 ... your 150 is it good know ?
@pickettmandi3 жыл бұрын
@@zorzum i have an fg295s
@75vettemaon3 жыл бұрын
Best explanation I’ve seen. Thank you.
@CapnCrusty8 жыл бұрын
Your tip about using an icing spatula to lift the fingerboard extension is right on the money. I just successfully removed the neck from a cheap chinese guitar that I'm converting to a resonator for a friend, and rocking the round end icing spatula to release the glue worked like a champ. Thanks mucho. Here's a tip to trade. I clamped a couple of 10" wooden parallel jaw clamps onto the box aligned with the neck, then bridged across the tops of them with a short piece of 1" square aluminum tubing, and then I used a medium size F clamp on the heel cap and the top of the aluminum bar. Boom! Instant neck press that didn't cost $100.
@LaSalle.ToneWorks8 жыл бұрын
+Capn Crusty glad it worked out for you. I do this pretty often. I am happy to share the info.
@hapshan5 жыл бұрын
Awesome vid
@JoeKyser4 жыл бұрын
This video made me do the mummers strut when it was done
@redlinemando5 жыл бұрын
Nice video!!!!!!!!!!!! Hardly any good neck set videos out there with competent explanations. Thank you so much for posting this!!!!!!! John Arnold is not too far from my area. I've never met him, but a friend of mine took my 46 D-18 to him. Someone had refinished the entire guitar with paint lacquer many years ago & destroyed the guitar. As it's collectable value was more than cut in half, I decided to use 0000 steel wool & try to salvage what I could. I was young & dumb & I ended up sanding to bare wood in a couple quarter sized spots. John refinished those spots & matched the finish exactly. You couldn't tell where one started & the other stopped. I've seen a lot of his work & it's always been top notch!!!! He knows what he's doing!!!! Great video!!!!!!!
@tippie534 жыл бұрын
thanks
@garylantinen28197 ай бұрын
I have a question and would appreciate any imput...i have a 2001 Martin D41 and a 1996 martin D42 both play great both necks have perfect relief and the action is well within specs with original untouched saddles...my concern is both guitars have a small gap between the heel of the neck and the body of the guitar (enough to slide in a business card) and or thoughts... I've heard this is quite normal as martin leaves this area unglued
@danielscroggins68063 жыл бұрын
Dear Glen do you show how to reset an acoustic guitar neck from right to left looking from the lower bout towards the head stock mine drifts to the right about a 1/16 of an inch. thank you.
@fongy2003 жыл бұрын
It can be done without steam but requires electricity, i'm sure Glen is familiar with the method, however it's not an exact science just yet and kits are being worked on for Luthiers workshops. I use the steam method but as soon as these kits become available i shall continue with the steam. One of the master has a parts list on his website but he wants a Patreon contribution for the list and method. I have seen it done and it's impressive, no risk of scalding any finish on the guitar.
@mattrogers194610 ай бұрын
I was surprised when he said finish blushing isn't a big deal...
@slowhand50038 жыл бұрын
thanks John.
@LaSalle.ToneWorks8 жыл бұрын
+slowhand500 your most welcome we are always here to help
@zorzum6 жыл бұрын
Thank's a lot , for my FG180 Yamaha is there something to know more ?
@tippie536 жыл бұрын
sometimes they used epoxy if they did that you will have a tough time. I would suggest drilling 4 holes 2 an the 15th fret and 2 at the body fret and drill so that you follow the dovetail but hit the cheeks of the neck in case they glued that.
@manifestgtr5 жыл бұрын
Where do you get that little heating blanket from? It’s gotta be a better price than the stewmac iron ($85....seriously....) and it’s clearly a better solution than “my protect the top, hit it with the heat gun” method
@tippie535 жыл бұрын
we sell them at blues creek guitar
@manifestgtr5 жыл бұрын
john hall 👍
@bluescreekguitars33465 жыл бұрын
we do well them at blues creek guitars
@patrickjan78963 жыл бұрын
Is it an issue that you should be worried off?
@rosskelly42004 жыл бұрын
Whatever happened to the metal truss rod in the neck? We never see that come out or go back in. What holds it in at the head end, and how do you get it out?
@LaSalle.ToneWorks4 жыл бұрын
Hi, The Truss rod is accessed from the sound hole, not the headstock, but the truss rod is in there :-)
@stevewooly61683 жыл бұрын
Hi liked the vid I have a question for you, I am riding around Thailand on my motorbike and need a travel guitar I can't afford a furch little Jane so I'm toying with the idea of buying a cheap guitar locally and using your technique of removing the neck and then inserting bolts to make it detachable for traveling just wondered if you think this is feasible or should I abandon the idea, bearing in mind I don't need a professional instrument, just something to bash out a few songs, it doesn't have to look pretty just useable
@johnhall27953 жыл бұрын
its hard to say Much depends on the construction method used. Some are doweled and epoxied and that may not be possible, Look for a travel gig bag you can wear it like a back pack
@stevewooly61683 жыл бұрын
@@johnhall2795 yes but have you tried riding 800km a day when it's 32° C with a backpack, not good, I must find a better option, thanks so much for your reply
@stevewooly61683 жыл бұрын
Also when you ride with a guitar in a backpack at 140 km per hour which I do all the time, after a couple of hundred kilometres your shoulders are just about ripped off
@RobertJohnson-cc5cp5 жыл бұрын
I wondered if I can have opinions of what is a reasonable charge that a neck reset should be and what it should not be? I brought a 1996 Martin DM to a repair shop yesterday to have it looked at. From early on the guitar had a problem and I brought it to Martin in Nazareth a few months after buying it. They put on the repair invoice "Straightened uneven neck" and adjusted action. Lately, it has been downright painful to play so the man that looked at it yesterday (He is authorized to work on Martin) found the truss rod cannot be moved anymore (very tight he termed) and the action is high and saddle lower than original. He is keeping it with him to contact Martin but unfortunately, it may not be this week for I think they shut down for the holiday. He said if it is deemed a structural problem Martin may cover the repair under warranty. My questions are Does anyone out there have experience dealing with Martin as far as warranty and if Martin was to not cover it what is your opinions on what a reset should cost and if worth it. I believe this was the last or second to last Martin to be made in Nazareth for under $1000. Any and all thoughts are appreciated. Signing off for now.
@bluescreekguitars33465 жыл бұрын
Martin will overcharge as the want you to go to the repair centers. They most likely won't cover this anything over 5 years your pretty much on your own . The truss rod is most likely just stuck and there are ways to loosen it and add a washer. Look me up on my website and contact me through that you can call me
@mattmarino39944 жыл бұрын
At about 18:55 in the video, you mention cloudiness in the finish not being a big deal. What would be a solution to the cloudiness?
@tippie534 жыл бұрын
often it will go away on its own just excess moisture. Sometimes it is glue residue and polishes off. if it is real bad no blush from auto stores will do the trick that softens the finish to allow moisture to air out
@mattmarino39944 жыл бұрын
@@tippie53 Alright thanks.
@mattrogers194610 ай бұрын
I was kinda put off by that remark.
@rustyaxelrod5 жыл бұрын
Entertaining video but the adjustable neck isn’t what I was hoping for. Looking for info on a dovetail reset.
@sboy19554 жыл бұрын
You said you were at 2 or 3 after setting the relief to .005". Is that 2 or 3 referring to x/64"?
@rosskelly42004 жыл бұрын
My guess was 2mm treble and 3mm bass strings. That would make sense as a typical or lowish action halfway down the fretboard.
@sboy19554 жыл бұрын
Ross Kelly - Thanks. I was checking my D18 as I watched his video and the string/fret height at the 12th is at 5/64". I was thinking: 2/64" (1/32") is really low this far up the neck?!
@joetheman744 жыл бұрын
Heighth?
@34672rr5 жыл бұрын
i'd use the heatstick from stewmac over steam, which is unpredictable, potentially damaging, and the temperature can't be controlled like a soldering iron
@tippie535 жыл бұрын
I have the heat stick and in skilled hands steam is much better. First you have to run a 1/8 in hole and that is hard to hide in rosewood fretboard. Yes they work . Most people that use steam don't use it correctly . The key is to use 2 holes and work the steam a bit and switch hole. Most blushing goes away in 24hr . Using 2 holes the blushing isn't an issue. . How many necks have you pulled ? I only did a few thousand, Wayne Henderson John Arnold and most of the guys I know still steam. You are welcome to your opinion. As one that does this for a living , steam is still more reliable. As always check that the neck block is still glued. No matter what system you use .
@richardriley56705 жыл бұрын
Would 2 thinner heat sticks that fit the hole size you like appeal to you? Steam seems to scare clients
@pluckerpick5 жыл бұрын
Saddle height 0.180" is 4.5mm, is that correct? Did you mean 0.80"
@tippie535 жыл бұрын
yes saddle height above the bridge should be about .180 in .8 in would be over 3/4 inch. total height off the guitar top to the top of the saddle should be about .5 in I like bridges to be about . 325 to .375 then saddle height of .125 to .180 these are my happy measurements, you can vary a little but these are the target measurements. Tolerance of about +/- .o625 in
@pluckerpick5 жыл бұрын
I meant, 0.080" ,thanks
@34672rr5 жыл бұрын
@@tippie53 do you prefer steam over a soldering iron extension? seems more unpredictable
@bluescreekguitars33465 жыл бұрын
Yes @@34672rr wiremessiah
@bluescreekguitars33465 жыл бұрын
that soldering iron will work but now you have a 1/8 in hole to fix. I have been steaming out necks for 20 y rs, Martin has been doing it longer than I. Steam works well. The key to this is to pull the needle every few minutes and let the heat work in. I have tried the heat thing and I can do 3 necks in the time it takes to do 1
@green.room.guitars5 жыл бұрын
10 minutes in and i gotta say the detail in this is amazing, thank you...
@tippie535 жыл бұрын
glad you enjoy them
@tippie534 жыл бұрын
glad you liked it
@mojoefelix3 жыл бұрын
String height at 12th fret: "Right at 3 and right at 2, so that's perfect." 3 what? 2 what? What system of measurement are you using?
@tippie533 жыл бұрын
using CF Martin nomenclature so a 3 - 2 action is 3/32 on bass 2/32 on treble at the 12th fret under the string.
@mamachip2 жыл бұрын
3/64" and 2/64"
@mojoefelix2 жыл бұрын
@@mamachip Nope, incorrect. See correct answer above from the maker of the video, John Hall.
@Southboundpachyderm5 жыл бұрын
btw thats not a souldering iron, it's a woodburner lol. I have the same one.
@tippie534 жыл бұрын
that is a soldering iron for comercial use not electronics. Then you see where I notched it to rider the frets. I think a small wood burner will also work
@jakescott12345 жыл бұрын
Informative video, but watching him repeatedly slap that metal straightedge down on the frets of that D42 really stressed me out.
@tippie534 жыл бұрын
that metal ruler is softer than the frets. also I am not working on my bench but in the shop where I have room for the cameras
@danashane4 жыл бұрын
Me, too. He's surely a fine tech - but I don't like the way he handles this instrument and I wouldn't let him touch any of mine.
@RamonesFan2014 жыл бұрын
danashane ohh wahhh
@joesantamaria58743 жыл бұрын
You need therapy
@mamachip2 жыл бұрын
Yeah that's almost as scary as ( god forbid) PLAYING the guitar and having those strings slapping off the frets.
@vtwinbuilder31292 жыл бұрын
8/64ths?!?! You mean 1/8th?
@johnmcgoldrick30722 жыл бұрын
again wheres the interior truss rod
@fongy2003 жыл бұрын
EKO Ranger are easy resets, the necks are bolt on.
@mamachip2 жыл бұрын
until the neck pocket breaks out.....and it ALWAYS breaks out.
@russbeston17294 жыл бұрын
Electric heat is by far the better way to do this .steam will mar the finish. Never on the pickguard.
@tippie534 жыл бұрын
disagree the heat plug takes a 1/8 in hole and is difficult to hide on rosewoods after over 1000 resets I can tell you if your getting finish damage you are doing it wrong. I only let the steam work a min or so then move to another hole. Been working on guitars for 20 years and I learned a thing or 2 so we can disagree. I tried one of the heat plugs and gave it away yes it will work but I do 4 resets at a time . The key not to damage is how you control the steam you can't just let it blast away. Also I do use heat for the fret board. If you let your heater in too long you can loosen the neck block from the sides both methods have their issues and you have to learn your technique. My friends Wayne Henderson John Arnold david Nichols we all steam. I don't know many that kept the heater. best to you.
@TheCleaner69692 жыл бұрын
The problem I have with what your saying here is you're suppose to set the straight edge on the fretboard not the frets. Make the neck flat using the trussrod. Your frets may not be level. First step tune to pitch then set relief then check nut height then check action. If action is too high then take the straightedge you're using & see if the straight edge kiss the top of the bridge if it's hitting the bridge you have other options. Shave the bridge then the saddle. A neck reset is expensive & is never the first option.
@tippie532 жыл бұрын
having done over 3000 neck sets I think I have learned a few things. Your question in talking about tuning to pitch is about a set up that is all together different. Your talking a set up not reset ,Shaving a bridge is not the way you want to do things and is an amateurs way of addressing a problem and not curing it , and I think you have a few things confused. Since you didn't see this is about neck setting on a new build , . When a guitar needs a reset that is when you can no longer adjust to the proper geometry. Once that happens you need to reset the neck . Once you start shaving the bridge you loose the efficiency of the energy transfer from the loss of the height of the saddle. I have been working on guitars for about 25 yr and I am an authorized CF Martin repair center and have made about 300 guitars. If you have any questions I would be happy to share my experience.
@TheCleaner69692 жыл бұрын
@@tippie53 I know the difference between setup & neck reset. I just did 3 cheapo acoustics which really should have the neck reset. I'm aware of all aspects. You can go to 4 degrees on break angle before you really need a neck reset & even then you can slot the bridge to increase the break angle to give the consumer time before an expensive neck reset. You can shave the bridge down to 0.0250 before you notice any sound difference. Neck reset is the last resort. I know many authorized repair centers & I'm not saying you but most will go for the big bucks before telling the consumer the other options. I've been a machinist for 34 years & have worked on many guitars. With the strings off & neck straight the angle of the straight edge should be about 0.062 to 0.125 above the bridge. Setting a straight edge on frets (if you don't know are level) will yield incorrect results.
@catfeline15304 жыл бұрын
I love this video, it's very informative, but I am really worried you are going to burn the hell out of yourself with that steam.
@100roberthenry4 жыл бұрын
why on earth do acoustics not have adjustable saddles and bridges?.....for intonation, action etc....it just doesn't make sense not to have that......weird.
@fukusamon42774 жыл бұрын
DEADASTRONAUTFX sustain
@fukusamon42774 жыл бұрын
DEADASTRONAUTFX resonance
@100roberthenry4 жыл бұрын
reed I understand resonance etc....but why make it hard for yourself... I love electric and because you can set your guitar as YOU like it......acoustics ALWAYS have adjustment limitations.....I love the sound of acoustics, dont get me wrong, but let's kick it up a gear bridge wise...x
@jro1013464 жыл бұрын
I have a Yamaha FG 300, bought new in 1970 The bridge is fully adjustable. Sounds great and I can not imagine why I don't see that type on every guitar.
@100roberthenry4 жыл бұрын
@@jro101346 cool, yeah it would make more sense wouldnt it, but i guess they wouldnt sell as many...hmmmm
@TempoDrift14804 жыл бұрын
Sorry but the string brake angle is critical.
@tippie534 жыл бұрын
The brake angle myth has been around for years but , from an engineering and physics standpoint no. What is more important is the string height at the bridge. Most people forget that it is the point of connection. So if you look at it this way, the point of the ball end to the point of the saddle is what matters. If you look at the applied force of the string you use the sine of the angles and the string tension . From the ball end of the string to the top of the bridge and then to the saddle. So if you think it is just the break angle , that is not correct. The point that you loose on the break angle is when you get below about 6 degrees . That is proven by the match and physics. You can use an oscilloscope a or spectrum analyzer and that too will prove the math. In the brake angle analogy the assumption is applied down force but the reality of this , is the coupled force of the strings up pull from the ball end to the tension at the bridge and down force at the saddle. You are only looking at one part of this equation.