Hey I just want to comment to everybody viewing and reading I've been donated to Ivan on patreon a very small amount every month for a couple of years now and I wish more of you would do so He very rarely mentions it but come on guys everybody pitch and help this man out...

The Anti Theft Alarm certainly worked on this one, rendered it immoveable .

Professional thieves aren't going to bother with a 2012 chevy, I doubt they would even bother with a brand new one. The only thief who might be interested is the repo man.

Tidy little diag Ivan. Your confidence is inspiring. Thanks!

Ivan, you, sir, are a master diagnostician!

Kudos for thinking deep into this issue. Diagnose Dan would approve.

So much for aftermarket trash. Customer generated problems. Good job Ivan!!

Be careful with that P0615 code and assuming the ground is fine since it cranks. I just did a diag on a 2011 Silverado crank no-start that had that code along with a transfer case control unit no-comm code. I finally narrowed it down to a bad ground on the starter relay control circuit. Engine had been swapped out and someone stuck the ground bolt in a hole down on the bottom of the engine block that had no threads in it. So, bad ground, yet the engine still cranked! I properly attached the two ground wires and the truck started and ran and the transfer case module no-comm was gone, as was the P0615. It took me a while to figure it out because I didn't suspect a bad ground either since the truck cranked good and strong.

never never never install one of those things. I bought a car for my mother that had an aftermarket alarm...if it didn't drain the battery overnight, it would leave her stranded at the grocery store. several tearful phone calls. ended up paying an aftermarket stereo installer to rip the damn thing out and then no more problems after. all for a car no one would want to steal anyways

Learned the hard way with an aftermarket remote starter. This was even a dealer installed Ford unit. It just died one day. Fortunately, it was still under warranty and covered!

They work really hard to find the problem exactly but make it seem so easy for us so hard work good Job bro this guy has Patient a lot that’s. Number one. Power and ground signal’s always check first fuel pressure

For everyone wondering about the CKP code and why Ivan didn't bother with it: this car had already been fixed by Ivan in previous videos, it had other issues. The CKP code never prevented the car from starting, it was running fine :) Although I think the CKP code might have been a sign that the PCM would soon crap itself, I don't think it necessarily has to do with the alarm. Great job as always Ivan! PS. It's interesting that I can't find the previous videos about this car 🤣

Ivan scores another victory. Merry Christmas Ivan and your wife. Hope you have a great holiday. Dont work to hard👍🇨🇦

Great video Ivan, people dont steal those cars. A simple cutoff switch is all it needs if any.

Your CM-900 Blade is properly installed when the parking lights flash twice and a whisp of smoke emanates from the ECU.

This is what ended up being my problem on the 2003 Impala I emailed you about with the fried BCM's. It would intermittently just go dead when you tried to crank or upon shutting the car off. (completely dead, no headlights, no horn, no life). Sometimes you could reset it by disconnecting the battery. The PCM itself was never blown, it would just fry the BCM's (went through 6 of them). When you turn the key the "code/key" stored on the BCM has to match the code/key on the PCM. When they match it allows the engine to start. If there is a fault with the PCM circuitry it won't allow that. In my case the whole BCM system would get fried. (this is not confirmed but my theory). One way around this was to turn the key and wait a couple of seconds so the signal could get be processed by the PCM (my theory is there was a delay in the signal). I managed to find a new PCM for $120 and it's easy to install so I had nothing to lose by throwing a part at it. I've spent over $3000 over the years dealing with this problem. I had nothing to lose. Another sign that the PCM is old and failing is when the lights in the dash dim when the car is switching on the auto-headlights. You'll notice a slight dip in brightness. So I put in the new PCM and did the GM re-learn procedure to get key/code from the BCM to the PCM. Once they are paired (like a lock and key) you can crank it. It's been working just fine for 1yr now. Thanks for your channel, I've learned a lot. 😀Can't wait for the Christmas special!

Thank you for another great diagnostic video.

Was the owner really worried about somebody stealing that wonderful gem of an automobile? doesn't it have a factory alarm?

Oo ... Ivan thank you for sharing ... very good diagnosis and very clear way of thinking (we all have that "feeling" when we suspect and close to make the call - ECU faulty ... hahaha)

i'd like to see the wiring repairs from when that alarm was removed. it cant be good

regarding the wipers - there is a recall for the wipers on GMC terrain and Chevrolet equinox. i'm sure a vin check would reveal that. My former spouce's vehicle had a recall. Typically, this problem is correlated to people running the wipers when there is a ton of snow on the windshield or the wipers are frozen in place and it wasn't cleared first.

Who would bother stealing a Chevy anyway!!😲

Of course the perfect solution is to not bother installing an aftermarket alarm in the first place, particularly on an 8 year old depreciated American POS.

Really interesting. PCM was the most likely cause of that weird voltage but just to be absolutely 100% sure (because condemning modules makes me nervous), I would've either depinned that wire form the PCM or cut it just to make SURE the 4V was coming from the PCM and not from the other direction. As unlikely as that would've been.

Ivan, it's clear that 3.8 volts coming from the PCM to pin 85 on the starter relay was not enough voltage to cause the relay to click on, but the PCM is monitoring the voltage on that starter relay control wire (relay terminal 85) and is not happy that this voltage is much above 0v when the starter relay is not on. But what about that removed alarm is now causing the PCM to put out that 3.8v? There must be a bias voltage on that line coming from the PCM, so that the PCM can tell when that voltage is being pulled down by the ground that's going thru the starter relay solenoid when not in use (a constant ground anyway). It's as if the bias voltage is no longer a weak bias, but is an actual strong 3.8v. Or the transistor on the starter control (power) wire is partially stuck on, and is leaking some voltage thru the transistor. This is likely a wire they cut (and later repaired) so the aftermarket alarm could interrupt the starter when it wants to. I would like to have seen a voltage measurement on this wire with the starter relay unplugged. Anyway, how could an alarm disrupting this starter control (power) wire damage that starter relay transistor in the PCM, causing it to partially flow voltage?

Do GM vehicles have a "winter" wiper mode or a wiper maintenance position? I had an old Acura Legend coupe that had a switch that would move the wipers up onto the glass so that they wouldn't get stuck in the cowl with packed snow. Some vehicles have a similar setting for replacing the blades, so that you can actually get to them.

There was a windshield wiper recall on those vehicles. If you don't pay attention and install the new wiper setup properly, that's what happens. The wipers are basically sitting in the wrong position on the cogs.

I trouble shooted a 14 sierra today no crank with a p0615 code. Ran through the motions testing the starter circuit. Got very hung up over the fact that the positive trigger for the starter relay has a 12v output without the relay in the socket and the relay wasn't engaging when I would put it back into the terminal. When you put the relay in it goes to 0 I tested the output. So the ecm throws that code by sending a such a limited amount of current that it cannot activate the relay but it detects the load of the relay. That's how it manages to throw that code and monitor that relay. In my case the relay did go to 12v and trigger properly the starter is just dead. It came from a car dealership down the street with an in house mechanic so I figured they would have checked the basics. I came to the conclusion the code was from them pulling the relay to check the I/Os. It goes 12 at the starter and no crank. C'mon guys.... 🤦I hope the ECM solved your problem though! I just wanted to comment on a situation in which I did find an in-between to what you said about that output only existing in an on and off state. The finality of it is that it does only exist in that state. But it seems there is positive output even though the key is simply turned on and not to crank.

Hi Ivan, I have that auto start feature in my car too. When I turn the key to the start position it starts cranking and I let go of the key it continues to crank until it starts up.

Quickly approaching the 100k sub mark. That's fantastic! The content has been getting better & better and more consistent! Well deserved Ivan!🥳👏🏻😊🤗 This is a heck of a problem. Did the aftermarket somehow corrupt software? Allow the battery get too low? I agree with your process so far, powers & grounds at PCM.... the other thing that bothers me* is the lack of injector pulse. Does that crank sensor code have anything to do with that issue? 🤔🤔

I love after market crap causing problems videos

hey, u cant say the antitheft didnt work!, another great electronic diag by u r sir

Great job. Just one observation. I get that you were trying to diagnose based on the DTCs... However from your data pids, we didn't have injector and you also mentioned that the shop used some starting fluid and it fired up. I was just curious on why you didn't go after injector feeds and controls, which most likely would have gotten you to the same call of a bad engine computer, as I'm sure either one of the injector feed or control would have been missing. Either ways great job.

I was thinking that the pin 87 could have been shorted to pin 85 (either in the harness, in the fuse box or in the relay itself), causing the relay to latch itself. Your test at 14:46 debunks that possibility.

I was waiting to hear that somewhere along the process, the input wires from the CPS and the start relay signal (pin 87a on the relay) to the ECM , got switched.... "No parts required"

You didn't try a new starter relay previously? Also with the relay unplugged you had that voltage without turning key to 50? Which is the correlation with ckp learning fault? Could have been interesting to confirm engine speed while cranking. Great job and good learning tips! Thanks!!

I have a craptiva in the shop with the dreaded 2.4 gdi. Same two codes, but the p0315 was solved with a relearn. So yeah, the engine cranks, starts, and immediately dies. The p0615 code never clears, and the engine then cranks and doesn't start at all. And it did start before yet stopped cranking (probably a bad starter/weak battery/both, fixed that and it cranks normal now), after a lot of poking around and finding everything in working order the engine fired up, on a whim I guess, when I cranked it just because and it ran great, I did some more poking and scanning and everything was fine did a ckp variation relearn and it cleared the p0315 code and the p0615 as well so I was confused yet happy, until I shut it off and it was a crank/no-start again and the p0615 came back...

This is an interesting failure mode. The testing shows that ECM can put 12V to pin and activate the starter relay and that there are 0V at the pin after it has been cranked. So the ECM is also able to disable the starter relay. Only on startup it shows 3.8V. It would be my guess that the ECM has to go to sleep (time out) for that 3.8V to reappear. I would guess that, when the ECM tri-states it's output the driver is not properly put in an off-state. I would expect the ECM to be intact and there only be a failure in der output driver (that switches the 12V to that wire, and consequently to the starter relay control side). I'd love to see that ECM opened up and the driver circuitry inspected to see if my guess goes in the right direction. I would (and my guess would be: other viewer too) love to know how the after marker anti-theft device is hooked up. If it is anywhere near the starter relay control circuit and thus could be involved in the ECMs untimely demise. Update: The Blade AL CM-900 is apparently not an alarm system but a remote start. If I understand that correctly it is wired in parallel with the ignition switch. I can't see how that could damage the ECM if correctly installed.

Cars are weird 😬. Nice diagnostics!

I am wondering if they disconnected the battery before the pokey stuff? This is a great video. Thank you again Ivan

What could be my problem? Starter stays running forever. fuses and grounds test out fine. purple and white wire read 0v with key in off and forward position. and 10v when cranking do i need a starter?

I had a similar problem on a blazer, it was the ignition switch. IGN 3 was only supplying 6 V to it's fuses

Did new computer fix the wipers parking in that odd position as well?

Have this same aftermarket unit (Compustar with Blade AI bypass module) and normally this is a remote starter. Yep they are China made but what isn't these days. Mine has worked flawlessly for 5 years...because the installer actually knew what they were doing and did it right. ECM on these is in the dumbest place on earth and just reeks of GM cost cutting. Amazing that more of them dont die from exposure to heat/cold/salt/moisture or just the outgassing of the flipping battery. Fun fact: The Buick Envision is assembled in China. Then shipped to the US for sale. Guy/Gal who owned this is lucky. They simply replaced the PCM and the engine cranked. From sound it looks to be the infamous Ecotec 2.4l that eats oil until it seizes or the PCV system freezes and blows out the rear main seal.

Mr Pine I visited your Amazon store and looking at the test light I don't see the test light featured and your videos all the time and can you give me a link tell me where you got the test light from for the cars

what is a good scope pico 4425a with mabe acer labtop or ?

Owner toasted his ecm with aftermarket junk. Smh...lol.

Where was all the hacked wiring?? My first thought was the starter circuit was modified to bypass the computer to get it crank. I was also thinking the 3.8v was a result of the wiring mods, not the computer. Great Job, Ivan!

When I saw the 3.8V I was thinking something was still spliced in to that circuit, or maybe wires crossed when alarm removed. A lot of GMs will cut fuel if they see the starter active when it shouldn't be, for example when you did the test light bypass test, if the engine was running it would stall at that point.

Can I get a link to the yellow poke tool

Awesome fuel saving option... keep injectors offline😜

Great video thanks.

What kind of scanner is that?

I had some after market wiring done on a new truck, for lights, shorted out after a few months blew the computer,my luck it was still under 3yrs from GM, they fixed it for free, 3grand

My advice: Don't install Aftermarket Alarms in modern cars...You'll have a high chance of damaging sensitive electronic circuits...If you're still concerned of possible Thief, connect a low tech hidden series switch to the fuel pump. The computer will see the pump as a failed "Open" and should not cause any permanent harm to systems.

🍻😎🤙💯Thanks for the education 👍

You have more patience than me man. I don’t take cars that’s been messed with like that by an owner.. those aftermarket things from eBay and Amazon are just begging for trouble on modern vehicles- I send them straight to the dealer w/no love from me because I can almost guarantee you they screwed something major up trying to follow Chinese directions translated into broken English or created a giant rats nest for me I’m not even going to bother dealing with- not to mention the quality of the component itself- the component could be/probably is built totally wrong and sends who knows how many volts where, when, and how.. 😂

@pinehollowautodiagnostics. Check in your bcm the module identifider is unknown. Each module needs to have an identifier in each module. Looks like a bcm is on the floor. You need to have the bcm setup after programming that will set the module identifier

Can it be a bad battery?

Chevy installs the computer directly over the venting battery...nice. At least it's not a chrysler sebring remove tire and fender liner.

With nowadays cars(2000 or newer) never fit Aftermarket crap. Lesson learned.

It wasn’t just an alarm system . It was a remote start/ alarm system they had installed. The funny thing is that I install a aftermarket remote start alarm system in every car that I have owned never had any problems with any of them . And I have had a lot of cars and trucks all with aftermarket remote start alarm systems never any issues... must have been the installer for this equinox. Or just a fluke and the computer was gonna crap out anyway

Ouch ! That was expensive !!

@pinehollowautodiagnostics heres a description and operation out of the manual from gm: Various modules throughout the vehicle learn a specific environment identifier during the module programming process. The environment identifier is learned by each individual module and matches the environment identifier stored in the BCM. Prior to starting after a battery disconnect, each of the modules which store a environment identifier will compare their identifier to that of the identifier stored in the BCM. If all the identifiers match, the engine starting process will continue. If the environment identifiers do not match, engine starting will be disabled.

how can i get that all data ??

So the aftermarket alarm caused the ecm to fail? or would it have happened anyway? will never know.

I Have driven School Bus. Since 1993. In 2006 we got 6 brand new international busses, a year later they started to have issues, they would shut down and not start. Found a branch tube that was cracking in the engine. International replaced them under warranty. We had one of them that still wouldn’t start after the fix. They tried for weeks and nothing. Finally at a mechanics mandatory meeting for all the terminals, a tech from international was there conducting the 3 day meeting, our mechanics approach the tech, told him the issue with this bus. The tech said every try replacing the computer? No. So they went to one of the other ones in the same year and pulled the computer out and stuck it in that bus, fired right up. Found the problem, computer went bad. Ordered a new computer from international, had to take it with one of the other busses from the same year/group to the international dealer and they had to program that new computer. Worked fine from that day on.

looking for turn signal flasher or fuse

I would hire a 24 hr guard to protect this classic. LOL

For the price of that POS aftermarket alarm , the shop , PHAD , the dealer and computer , possible towing - had to be well over $ 1000.00 . On these late models , it's taking a huge gamble . I am surprised they had the dealer do the computer and programming . Maybe they are looking to bail on it and get a warranty . Unless there is a written warranty and a place to return it , it's insane to put this crap in a late model vehicle . Who are you going to sue in China ? And it may only be limited to the cost of the alarm . No consequential damages . Great diagnosis .

Ivan, a couple of points: I'm not the only one to mention this, but what's the cause of the zero injector pulse width? Any chance that's related to the crankshaft position sensor code? And you felt the 3.something voltage on the starter relay control wire was suspicious, but couldn't that just be the ECM strategy for testing the relay circuit continuity and relay resistance?

I’m thinking that the crank variation not learned could that cause a crank no start

Good job

So was the computer the problem ?

Of course. If you have some sort of electronic problem definitely spray carburetor cleaner into a fuel injected engine. If that doesn't work, set the thing on fire

In ur opinion.... did the remote car starter cause that? Or was it just coincidence? I’d say coincidence myself and I realize we may never no.

I would be worried about that BCM sitting on the passenger floor lol.

I would love to see the footage you put the new computer in ! It is a good call but I still like to see it .

i'm having the same problem with my citroen relay. been at the garage for three weeks.

The remote start/alarm system probably had nothing to do with the engine computer failure.

Hi, I have had a similar problem with the Chevrolet Cruze for a week, after replacing the battery, even the starter does not spin, I can not find wiring duagrams. Best regards👍

It seems to me your ignition switch is shot. But it’s the security system engaged. That is likely the problem. This is why we shouldn’t add on aftermarket security systems. They don’t always get along with factory computers. 🤷🏻‍♂️

So if an eight year old car like that needs a new computer is that an economical fix? How much would that cost to have done at the dealer? The car can’t be worth much

Made in China that's the problem good one Ivan, Great video

Like #349 Thanks for the video!

You must've shot this film in late 2011 right after it rolled off the lot cuz those things rarely make it past a couple months

Lost the ECM on a 2014 Equinox. It was replaced under warranty.

I know it is a lot cheaper to install those aftermarket stuff , you better off going to the dealer sometines,it is so easy to install gm remote start,all you need is a new hood latch ,and some programming,I install them less than one hour

Somebody let the magic smoke outta the brain box ;) You know how Eric O feels about aftermarket stuff..

Compustar CS900 Remote Start & Alarm, now includes free immobilizer*! *Immobilizer cannot be disabled.

What about that crank sensor code? It would defenetly make a no start

I doubt the injectors will open at 2200 psi fuel pressure , this is not a diesel car . The new BMWs maybe will open them at this pressure , but highly doubt that this car will also . Most of the time the idle is somewhere at 750 psi , just for reference

Putting in a alarm system that robbed you.

" Made in China, that's the Problem" Careful, your scan tool is also made in China...lol. Great job Ivan. :)

I think you've said it before, Don't install after market accessory add on, this is what most likely will happen.

Check the engine control relay. If you pull it, the car will crank until you turn off key with no start. If anyone is having similar problems.

You didn't mention the fact that the original faults included Crank position not learned. I thought that was strange.

Wait, what ? PCM is in control of crank duration ?

Ivan said "Made in China is the problem"...hilarious 😂🤣

Would you please tell me your scanner tools name and number. I live in Qatar