That’s awesome. I’m curious though. how many miles did you have on it when you got rid of it?

You got lucky

Your very welcome, please like and subscribe if you haven’t already and check this video out kzfaq.info/get/bejne/htOIpsd12Jyan6c.htmlsi=RlQ1B_sNTOIZn53c It’s what made me make this video.

Thank you for watching and glad I can help please like and subscribe if you haven’t already.

Thank you. Please like and subscribe if you haven’t already. And check out the video that made me make this one. 👇🏽 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/htOIpsd12Jyan6c.htmlsi=RlQ1B_sNTOIZn53c

Thank you. Thanks for watching. Yeah I found that to be the easiest way with all those damn bolts.

Thanks.

Thank you. Please like and subscribe if you haven’t already.

You’re welcome, thanks. Please consider subscribing if you haven’t already like and share.

Thanks for the comment. There okay engines GM put them in everything, you definitely have to stay on top of your oil changes. But sooner or later, you’re gonna have to do that timing chain job. And the direct injection at higher mileage, becomes an issue as well. But wear and tear items right take care wish you the best. Thanks for watching.

If you drive it like a senior citizen any car will last. What makes the engine good is how long they withstand the abuse with good maintenance as well. These dual over head cams engines are a pain and not as good as the single cam engines.

Yes sir thank you lol🫡

Just hit 94k and she puuursss ( btw this things is SFI) gonna replace the PCV for the VVT before it starts to tick like crazy…

Sounds like a nice score best of luck with it thanks for watching please likes and subscribe if you haven’t already. Take care.

Thank you, please like and subscribe if you haven’t. That sounds like those old Saabs that had the fan belts at the firewall tons of fun.

Thank you, hope it helps some folks out.

Yeah these engines have that weird love hate relationship. Thanks for the view and comment, please like and consider subscribing.

Amazingly stupid engines, I like my 09' Acadia but the other day it started throwing the P0008 code🙄🙄🙄. It still runs fine though, no loud noise coming from The timing cover area so not sure if its panic time yet? If It is please let me know because I dont have $450-$600 for the timing kit. Its a shame when you get a car that you like but only to find out its a nightmare to work on. I consider myself a pretty advanced skill do-it-yourselfer, but I have to say this job is scaring me a little. Lastly, I see the engine is still in the car, is this possible for an Acadia too or no? Great video though thank you

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/htOIpsd12Jyan6c.htmlsi=fWRSVDKWsyelwZM0 You can watch this video 👆🏽it should help, it was the reason I made the tips video. If I get an opportunity too maybe I’ll be able to make that video. Thanks for watching and the comment please like and subscribe if you haven’t already.

Thanks for the visit

I hope it helps you, I still have to put up the caddy SRX4 I did this job on that had me make this video. Between yard work etc that’s gotta be done before winter settles in I haven’t edited it yet. You gotta make sure every mark is lined up and the ones on that primary chain have to be centered perfectly in the holes on the idlers, then rotate it forward then back and recheck 2 or 3 times real pain. But if you keep these clean and stay up on the maintenance, they seem to hold up. Will they ever be the 3000 series, no but ok engines. Let me know how it goes, thanks for your support.

@@angelsautomotivediy I know about those chores and the like and I'm no video editor either and I have hours and hours of vids that I've yet to edit and post up sadly I have to sleep sometime, but I'm also potentially losing money not getting them and moreover they can help other people like yours have, albeit a few months late for me to alleviate my pain and anguish over this hunk. Currently I'm working on a Touareg that I've had languishing in my garage for about 4 years and it was languishing outside the guys house I got it from previously for about a year or two. It had interior water damage from the well known hatch leaks and they never pushed out the drain plugs in the tire well it's black and in Florida sun so it was a near biohazard inside, I mitigated that and it's just been sitting waiting for me to have some time and money to get to it. I took it as a partial trade for an RX8 I rehabbed and that was a mistake at the time but supposedly it had had the heads worked on by a VW "master tech" except that's not supposed to be possible with the engine in the car anyway the engine was trashed oil junk build up in the valley and likely the oil pan like I've never seen before which is why he probably stopped. With only 130 something thousand miles someone wasn't maintaining the oil properly. I bought another silver Touareg at the time I got his and paid like 600 for his all of these are V8's but supposedly the engine was good low mileage under a 100,000, but again water damaged and in this case it killed the ECU. I also have/had a daily driver with 217,000 on it but ran/runs excellent until the hurricane forced water into the security lockout under the dash and it got the steering fault indicator and was going to be too expensive and involved to repair. I got that one paid off by insurance and now it's my donor truck along with the other one and my sons and I transplanted the engine and Tranny from the ECU Touareg into it and got it running at least a couple of years ago and then life took over, lawn stuff and hurricanes and worse yet kids and such and it's just been sitting but now it's almost roadworthy again and I've nearly fully rehabbed it into a low mileage nice looking Touareg for it's years much nicer than my silver one

Sorry for the length, had to continue over on a new reply..... Keep an eye out for my vids if I ever get them edited and posted? I also gave you a credit mention in the Touareg vid but will also mention you in the CTS vid when I get back to it, props where props are due..BTW my sons who were 14 and 15 at the time and I, removed the engine and tranny through the front and not from underneath since I don't have a lift or a fancy hydraulic bench like the dealers have and reinstalled it the same way and that was some adventure but we got it done and safely and it does run! Now only one fault code for the camshaft sensor hopefully unlike the CTS it will actually ONLY be the camshaft sensor although not easy, the Touareg is MUCH simpler when it comes down to it, having done both now.. Though I didn't think so at the time, I'll take the Touareg anytime over the CTS for this job, I've done it 3 times on different Touaregs and 3 times on the same CTS POS and now will be a fourth..Making me appreciate my Treg that much more. Well that's it, again sorry for the length thought you might relate. Keep on keeping on..

@@angelsautomotivediy I do have one more question however? I did take all of my bolts out of my cover it isn't really THAT hard to remember because there are only really like two or three that are different in length or size than the other 20 or so and some are unmistakable the difference. However, having said that. I like your idea also because it can keep the centering shims inside as well, but you have to clean the motor cover and replenish the RTV so they are going to fall out while you do that?

@@kw57rx8dr.9 When you push the bolts in without them falling out keeping the shims in place prop it up against something and you’ll be able to clean it without them falling out I propped it on a cardboard box and cleaned it if one falls out it’ll be easier to put just one or two back.

Yes sir, absolutely thanks for the view and comment.

Good advice if you don't have a scanner for sure.

LOL, yes sir the Grand National Typhoon and Cyclone are awesome examples and ZZ performance has a ton of goodies for 3800 V6s supposedly a stock block can handle 500 HP. Thanks for the view and comment please like and subscribe if you haven’t already.

Oh, and my code reader just bought the farm. Opened that up, and found a burn on the microchip/motherboard. So, I gotta source another code reader too, lol

Truck drinks oil, loses coolant up front, needs front control arms, brakes, and battery gonna probably be due in next 12 months.

Man keep your head up one thing at a time that’s it man. Pull the intake off and valve cover off on bank one and check the phaser what sucks is you’ll have to take the whole thing apart to retime it there’s a tool you can buy and use but it’s expensive easier to just pay the sweat equity. Thanks for the view and comment.

Thanks, yes I’ve seen that comes in handy I believe they also have one for the Chrysler 3.6l that come with there own set of issues with rockers. Thanks for watching and the comment please like and subscribe if you haven’t already.

Staying on top of the oil changes and maintenance is very important with any engine but especially with these to keep the oil passages clean and the vvt solenoids as well. However the chain stretch can’t be prevented by oil changes. The chains on these are a wear item and will have to be changed at some point and you’re nearing that milestone. Thanks for the view and the comment please like and subscribe if you haven’t already take care.

Thanks Albert. Okay this is a tough one and hope the valves are not damaged. If you didn’t rotate anything and put the chains on it should be close to where it needs to be we hope. You did it three times hopefully you did it the same all three times. You have to put it at top dead center number one cyl lock the cams and see where your marks are and start from there. You can’t rotate the cams once the chain is disconnected because you can bend the valves. Hopefully this hasn’t happened. You have a little wiggle room to move a cam slightly the other way you could would be to bring the pistons down as close to neutral(half way) in the cyl then you can rotate it if you really had too, but chain off on that bank only of course but if you are that far off chances are you bent a valve already. You’d have to do a compression test on each cyl to see if you have a bent valve or a leak down test. You can also use an inspection camera and look at each piston to see if you have valve marks on the piston from a valve coming in contact. Take your time I know it can get frustrating but you have to have patience. Thanks for the comment and view please like and subscribe if you haven’t and watch the other video I made that had me make this video. Good luck. 👇🏽 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/htOIpsd12Jyan6c.htmlsi=7EZApMvM54hWCLHV

haha, if I would have listened further 30 secs you corrected yourself....NM so sorry but you proved my point how it gets confusing....LOL

It can get very confusing. Thanks for watching and the comment please like and subscribe if you haven’t already and help the channel grow.

Changing your oil regularly will definitely keep the engine cleaner, however the rear bank on these 2010 and earlier need to have the larger pcv holes. The chain stretch is not gonna be stopped by oil changes with any oil, nor help with gunky valves due to direct injection. Thanks for the comment and watching, take care.

It'll GET you sooner or later.... 😈 Sure, they're great engines, until they aren't..

I did mine according to the car computer. Sometimes went a thousand miles over that made it 184,000 mi before I started getting a p0008.

@@angelsautomotivediy I don't know if you are aware the having a "low volatility" will make a difference with the "gunky intakes". I have been using Pennzoil "ULTRA" platinum full synthetic in 3 GDI engines for a few years now because of oil tests by "Project Farm" channel. The guy that ran the test on the leading synthetic oils does some EXTREMELY DETAILED testing. The Pennzoil had the lowest LOSS in the evaporation test, even lower than Amsoil! The type AND brand of oil DOES make a difference, important for GDI engines!

Project farm is great love his tests.

Unfortunately yes Audi’s are even worse, thanks for the view and comment please like and subscribe if you haven’t already. Happy 4TH!!

If you don’t do the repair eventually you’ll damage the engine either the chain will snap and you’ll see all the fun that causes or it’ll jump timing altogether and not run or run poorly if it’s bad enough the valves might touch the pistons. That’s bad lol. I’m always a repair kind of guy but it all depends on if the chassis and body is ok and not rotted out your In Canada so I know you guys pain being in the rust belt myself. As far as cost figure about $2000 US plus if you find a shop that will do it .

So you changed the phasers and chains? And you said all 4 vvt are you saying the solenoids or the sensors were damaged? You said the idle is pretty stable no valves were bent right because if all 4 whatever were damaged that sounds like something let go completely. Take a look at my tips video. Let me know if that helped. The correlation code could be from the phaser being bad or the chain being off a tooth. When you time this engine you want to spin it forward then backwards the same amount of revolutions to recheck your timing marks. Let me know how it goes please like subscribe if you haven’t already. Thanks.

Hello thanks for reply I changed all 4 phasers and chains but the intakes phaser I put it back L in bank 1 and R in bank 2 and now after I saw your video I think thats why I have the P0016, the valve are not bent, the engine pretty stable@@angelsautomotivediy

If thats the case you’re gonna have to go back in there and swap them over. Pain in the ass I had to go back in again as well the first go around too. All part of the learning process.

Low oil can wreck any motor, but that’s the pcv issue with these things. Catch cans all around. And sludge does seem to be an issue with these, thanks to passages and oil solenoids Etc. Thanks for the view and comment. Please like and subscribe will help the channel grow.

Thank you. The one I used in the video is from an engine calibration kit but you can buy just the compression whistle from Amazon, for about $16.07 plus shipping. IPA tools part #7894.

Thank you, 160000 miles.

Very true, one of the best ever made. Thanks for the comment and watching.

Nothing wrong with the Series III either.

The government required better emission hence this high tech engine. You can thank the government for these high maintenance engines.

Owner of 2007 pontiac grand prix 3800 series 3 great engine still running strong 💪

🤣

It’s the GM genuine kit #12700436 got it from Rock Auto. Thanks for the view and please like and subscribe if you haven’t already. Check out the full video here 👉🏽kzfaq.info/get/bejne/htOIpsd12Jyan6c.html

@@angelsautomotivediy Thank you for the info and the tips. Def will save me some headache and rework. Great video btw. I liked and subscribed.

That’s definitely a unique situation there wow. Thanks for the view and comment.

Absolutley guaranteed to work every time lol. Thanks for the view and comment.

The later ones had the upgrade for the pcv but I’ve heard mixed reviews about it. Many say the same deal with it a catch can wouldn’t hurt it seems all modern engines can use a catch can.

Which catch can do you recommend?

Elite engineering. Rpidesigns.com not a sponsor, lol.

@@angelsautomotivediy is it ok to use Dorman Cam Phasers and Cloyes chains. I work at a parts supplier and get them at a good price.

@@justinstatham6378 You can use the Dorman I did on this very truck but I would have liked to use the GM but I needed to finish the car. Unfortunately Dorman is hit or miss but when you need something they always seem to have what you need.

ar.pinterest.com/pin/740771838682789378/?amp_client_id=CLIENT_ID%28_%29&mweb_unauth_id= 👆🏽 that link for a diagram I go over that in this video as well as in this video 👉🏽 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/htOIpsd12Jyan6c.htmlsi=FKiOaRtl_ct6Agq7 Please like and subscribe if you haven’t already thank you for the view and comment.

Damn really, sorry to hear that I’d say check the vvt solenoid and cam sensor and phaser if you did the chains they couldn’t have stretched that fast in a year. Please like and subscribe if you haven’t already thank you.

Yeah these can be, but you got it done take your time check your work and now hood as new.👍🏽👍🏽

Lol correct, but the procedure will be the same as far as the timing marks etc. Thanks for watching.

You can, that would be a very large piece of gasket material. Factory is rtv. Thanks for watching and the comment.

Thanks for the view and comment please like and subscribe if you haven’t already. PS I don’t understand the language.

It’s an issue but not a recall issue, because it happens at the 100,000 mile plus mark, not 20,000 it’s more of a maintenance item. A pricey one at that but maintenance none the less. Most manufacturers don’t even give 100,000 mile warrantees. They see it as the car went 100,000 miles plus, so that’s good. Were used to hearing timing chain and associate that with longevity and not needing to do it for a very long time or ever. Modern engines however with quad cam overhead designs require multiple chains to run and have complex engineering put into them and have these weak points more and more. Thanks for the comment and view please like and subscribe if you haven’t already. Thank you.

@angelsautomotivediy do you know if the problem has been addressed in later versions? I think the oldest model year I've seen was 2012, or 2013. I'm speaking specifically about the 3.6 in the GMC Acadia.

To my knowledge no. Just stay on top of your maintenance and if you start getting cam correlation codes check for chain stretch and don’t ignore it. If needed do the repair and you should be good for another 100,000 plus.

Ok this job is a pain to do you gotta be real careful you don’t rotate the engine and bend a valve. Take your time and step away for a little while then go back to it. Before you lined up all of the other marks you should’ve had the crank in time. Before taking everything off it should’ve been tdc number one cylinder and then time it in second stage. Take a look at my Cadillac srx video which was the first video before I made the tips video. Let me know if that helps and we can try from there. I cannot emphasize do not turn it over completely. You do not wanna bend those valves.

This mystery is solved, long story short, the marks will not line up until you have the tensioners pumped full of oil. After reassembling and retiming the motor, I took the plugs out and spun it over with my kickass super powerful Mac sealed head air rachet until the tensioners were pumped full and then the marks were proper. So it was right the first time, but with this being my first time timing one of these motors I was not positive I was doing it proper and did' not want to have to take it apart again.

Looks like a different style head for the 3.6l “saddle cap heads” 12588272, 12588272 GM part numbers for the ‘06. Exhaust and intake.

I’m sorry your having trouble with your ride but stop the parts cannon. Your gonna have to look at the timing chain itself. I don’t know your mechanical ability, but it sounds like your willing. Your gonna have to remove the intake and valve aka cam covers and look at the chain itself and check for stretch. That’s most likely what’s going on. Id it’s the chains which most likely it is I don’t know your mileage model etc. but you gotta dig a lil deeper now. It’s not an easy job you can ruin your engine if you do it wrong so your at a crossroad but you can at least inspect it further and make a determination. Let me know what you decide or find take care thanks for the view. Please like and subscribe if you haven’t already.

@@angelsautomotivediy 2008 Buick Enclave CXL 3.6L V6 2WD. Timing chain was already done a few days ago. Along with 1 VVT Solenoid. And the 4 sensors. And only codes I have are camshaft related.

Hello. I really don’t know why, it really just complicates the whole job. I did it both ways the first with stage one and two the second in stage two only. The first I didn’t rotate the engine to seat the chain and I cleaned the valves because they were right there, that caused the engine to stumble and didn’t start had to try again then she fired up but the chain had already jumped so I got the correlation code again on the right bank so I went in again and did it in stage two only. Bring number one to top dead center then rotate to stage two lock your cams line up your marks, torque everything up then rotate forward however many times you like then rotate backwards same amount all marks line up your good finish it all up.

@@angelsautomotivediy I also did stage one only and ended up with correlation codes. Pulled apart and re-checked and everything was still in time. So I have been digging for the technical reason for it. Weird I can’t find that information. Phasers should be locked. Can’t understand why it would matter what position anything was in as long as the links line up.

@@chad541121 count the links between on the cams and make sure the links are perfectly in the windows on the idler gears on the primary chain. Check the phasers with a 19 mm on the cam if it moves that phaser is bad you’ll see the trigger wheel move it should not rotate.

I just timed one for the first time there is a 44 minute video that explains it very easily, I also held both vCt chains together and they were the same length so I didn’t order new chains, but I ordered the primary chain and it turned out it was stretched when held beside each other, Maybe it was your primary chain too?

Same as this one, GM put these in so many models, thanks for the view and comment.

Regular oil change every 4 - 5k miles high quality oil filter as well. My 2014 enclave has 101K miles she still strong.

Top dead center number one cylinder and cams locked in stage 2 is what I did. Thanks for watching please like and subscribe if you haven’t already.

Really that’s good to know, thanks please like and subscribe if you haven’t already.

Yes sir.

2500-3000 for the job at the dealership, I have a video coming gotta edit it this was a quick tips video I myself had to go back in I explain why in that one. And yeah both banks can’t do just one gotta do all three chains.

Do you think I could do it myself?

@@alakrang.7775 I don’t know your ability but if you take your time and have tools maybe but if if you don’t do it right the motor can be severely damaged. This job isn’t just an oil change.

Good advice!

there are a zillion of these engines in junkyards ,, find one with 50 thousand or so miles on it and replace the whole engine .. i am soon to do that with my 08 suzuki xl7 3.6 ..

Absolutley never ever turn an engine over with the chains off if it’s an interference engine. You have a small amount of play to fine tune but not a lot.

@@angelsautomotivediy I never would... but it was interesting to see that with the plates on the cams, all valves are fully closed.

However, with the tilted plate on... valves are open.

That’s strange idk why that would be. Design change maybe the wrong chain gotta look at a manual form that specific car and see if there’s a change or difference. Thanks for watching, please like and subscribe if you haven’t already.

It's a 2005 with the old style phasers. The cts came in as a no start with low compression on all 6 cyl.. The first thing I checked was the timing chain. Replaced that, and it still has low compression. I'm pulling the heads tomorrow. I suspect the rings may be worn since all 6 cylinders have low compression. Bank 1 has about 60 psi, bank 2 in the low 100psi.

If you have a borescope, try to take a look and see if the valves are bent before you pull the heads because if it jumped timing too far it’s an interference engine and if you bend them valves you’ll see the marks on the Pistons or you’ll see the valves, not seating properly with a scope. It’ll save a bunch of time.

@angelsautomotivediy the timing was correct on the old chain, and it wasn't very loose. I've seen 3 valve tritons with the chains loose enough to slip over the cam gears and still run. The customer bought the car not running because the seller said it just needed a chain. 6 bent valves are unlikely, and it has 60-100psi on all cylinders. I'm thinking burnt exhaust valves or rings. Something that will effect all 6 cylinders. Thanks for responding, man. It's also slow to build up compression. It takes a few extra revolutions to get the compression high enough to move the needle on the guage.

Yeah kind of crazy, take your time and DIY you can do it for cheaper and get another 100,000. Thanks for the comment and watch.