Super confused my 83 gmc 2500 2wd came with this G80 diff?

wow - clutch plates in the diff? amazing - so THAT's why they fail on the 10 bolt? that's what I have. I'm gonna take it easy. haha.

Voidisyinyang Voidisyinyang The locking just creates too much shock to last long for any driver beyond my grandmother.

@@codymoncrief8478 depends on how much of a raging drunk the grandmother is. My great grandmother was a Woman's Christian Temperance Union activist but today's raging grannies probably would trash this diff.

Voidisyinyang Voidisyinyang I can see it: When Karen gets mad that you didn’t let her merge without a blinker, so she hammers it in her lifted Suburban to chase you down. All the fury funneled through that 6.0 Vortec. That baby would blow so violently that the sound would actually drown out her Mariah Carey CD for a second or two...

@@codymoncrief8478 Yes. But the lock is only at lock speed, either below 6mph or 18mph. At higher speed it’s an open diff.

That's a good idea, my differential is open I could try that only problem is my e brake stops both the back wheels. I coukd disconnect one side of the e brake

@@ericg4915 it works if half pressure . Will overcome brake friction and send power to wheel not slipping

2@

Not true you will instantly go sideways at high speed. I speak from experience. 1 tire had traction and the other one was on ice And the second the one on ice broke loose the other one kicked in and there I was sideways on the highway

@@dwaynefehr4317 It won't lock over 20mph

Jay Jay your a smart guy...Thank you.... So no damage will be done at high speeds....

@@dwaynefehr4317 like Jay Jay said there will be no damage to the internal parts at high speeds......

@@dwaynefehr4317 You have to understand that if you are on slick roads it will lock at low speeds and stay locked depending how you drive up to high speeds. Unless there is a malfunction it should not transition from unlocked to Lock at higher speeds

how did it go?

@@brandondonovan8402 She'll run like a "Rapped Ape" now! "Luna" is a 2002 Z71 Suburban with '411' gears. I also put a Corvette servo in the transmission. So she now barks tires thru 3rd. Thanks for asking brother! I took a ton of pics while doing the rear.

@@kcst0rm thru 3rd! Wow. Nice brother, good to hear! Bet you love it

35'' tires on my 2005 4x4 GMC & 250k on it never had a problem ....

Nope not tuff, they hold up just fine under normal use but abuse it and the spiders grenade. Been there done that.

Yeah not good for on the blacktop burnouts. But mine has 270,000 miles all original off road...

They're perfectly "tough" for what they were designed for, but not necessarily the idiots who want to abuse their stock vehicles.

+Steven King JUNK! Aka GOV BOMBS I've been doing rears for over 40 years ,This is a total pile of crap!I had a junk bin literally full of these

Must be why GM still uses them.....because they obviously don'tcwork AT ALL! Don't abuse your shit and you won't have a problem.

My Ram '15 2500 has a AAM 9.25" front and AAM 11.5" rear diff with the auto locking diff, same as in the Chevy/GMC's. It works ok at best. Many times only one wheel gets power. In my opinion one of these auto locking diff would work good in the front diff while having a Detroit Locker type in the rear. I plow snow, traction is essential. Having the factory Chrysler lifetime powertrain warranty is keeping me from swapping them out.

If you drove great that means the locker didn't activate. Locker in snow = disaster.

Im having a problem where it thumps from 1st to 2nd gear. Sound comes from the back. But sometimes does it in other gears. I have a feeling it thumps when the gear doesn’t change fast enough and then driveshaft is left loose then hooks back up not sure if im explaining correctly

Did you ever figure it out? mine has the same issue thinking it might have something to do with that gov lock

Thevoice ofreason make sure it has the limited slip supplement added to it it lubes the clutches to keep them from chattering when you turn.

Thevoice ofreason b

These don't have clutches in them so it doesnt need the limited slip additive. However the chattering in this guys diff may actually mean it's a clutch pack style LSD. Which would mean it needs the additive. Check the RPO codes and if it has the code G80 then you have the style shown in the video.

These DO have clutches behind the side gears, so it does require posi-lube.

I believe it stays locked until you let off the gas and coast.

when you ease off the gas pedal there is no longer torque being given which causes the weight to close and release the arm.. basically if you are in the snow at a dead stop and you hit the gas a little harder then normal, the counter weight do to the torque will open up and latch on to the locking arm and now both axles are locked together. Now people think you must go 120 rpm but thats not entirely true as the jerk motion of the shaft do to torque will cause weights to throw out. now ounce out the arm is now locking the axels together, so now your truck is moving in the snow with both wheels locked going same rotational speed off the line from dead stop, so now you are driving towards an intersection and you let off the pedal ( no more torque ) and the weights will now slow down and close and disengage the arm that it locked into and no more locking. Reason why this unit blows up is people don't drive it correctly ( me included ) as if you are going around a corner and gas it and there is a puddle or wet and haflway threw the turn your one tire spins and then you gas it up harder causing more torque the weights will throw out trying to lock the axles. Now remember you are going threw a turn so one axel is spinning more then other do to the turn ( if that makes sense ) so now your G80 is trying to lock up as one axel spins crazy fast ( the tire doing burnout do to water ) and other is turning do to dry pavement and axel locks up the spyder gears very violently. So this is where the bomb hits and you kill the spyder gear usually in 3 pieces. i blew mine after 283,000 miles. i have a 2007 ZL1 Avalanche that is cammed for towing and dynowed at 320 ponys at the wheels which are 20x12 rims and 33 inch tires. I DO NOT DO BURNOUTS OR SCREW AROUND bUT UNFORTUNETLY I DID find myself turning on to an multy lane road ( speed limit 40 ) that had cars doing 50mph and i was dead stop. so i got on it a little and there was a puddle and my inside tire spun and i got more on the gas and BANNGG!! it engaged hard. after that my rear started acting a little funny going around tight corners at low speed ( parking truck and stuff ) and i was getting wheel chirp. Finally after a week leaving taco bell drive threw its a long sweep turn just barely touching gas and rear started banging hard and now i felt it was stuck in lock. got it home and pulled cover and there are my spyder gears in 3 pieces on bottom of housing... SORRY FOR LONG POST...

Terrance Kenallen its annoying in bmws lol cause your rear end just slides over and sometimes the computer can't apply enough braking force to one side so its gonna spin anyway if you're on ice on either sides. Generally its good for snow and light snow but any high or heavy heavy thick snow forget about it lol

Very good. It's always good to have 4 wheel drive in those conditions as well.

Terrance Kenallen True lol the Xi series and X drive series are insane in the snow but for a rwd car, they drive good and better than most rwd cars in the snow I must admit.

It's not a limited slip at all, it's a locking differential a different category all together. Limited slip uses some form of clutches to tie the two wheels together thus giving you a limited amount of slip between the two wheels. A locking differential physically locks the two wheels together, zero slip. Lockers do however have some way of unlocking to allow the wheels to spin independently. The GM locking differential has managed to combine an open differential with a Detroit style locker. The flyweight mechanism he shows in the video is just a sensing system telling the it when to lock up, the actual locking mechanism is behind the side gears hidden from veiw. I have owned several trucks with these locked and in my experience they work brilliantly, I think most of the complaint come from people who don't understand the conditions in witch they are supposed to lock up.

+Austen tatious . you know x drive bmw's are all 4wd right??

Was thinking the same thing

see above comments - there's a clutch pack in the governor - and it fails - especially on the 10/12 bolt diffs

ChevySS1968 the little locking lever doesn't actually transfer that much force. that's more or less still what happens in the casing/spider gears. all it really does is stop the "horizontal" spider gears from rotating, therefore making them essentially dumb pieces of metal, where the force then goes through them and to the axel gears..... hard to explain without a diagram, sorry.

go watch this video from Eaton, it explains it much better kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qrp3jbJ7tremlXk.html

You shouldn't be driving in 4WD on dry pavement. Your truck does not have a center differential that allows this, so any binding or scrubbing that occurs when turning in 4WD on dry pavement is actually normal. Now, it's certainly not good for the drivetrain when it does this, which is why you shouldn't be in 4WD on dry pavement. If it's binding up or scrubbing while traveling in a straight line, this is most likely caused by mismatched tire sizes or tires that are unevenly worn (for example, having very worn tires on the front axle and brand new ones on the rear, or vice versa.) This is because the tires each have a different diameter (either due to mismatched sizes or differing levels of tread wear) and roll at different speeds. Again, with no center differential your truck does not allow for different wheel speeds between the front and rear axles. Hope this helps!

Is it lifted? Has it been in an accident? Did you check the u joints everywhere? I suspect the u joints.

@@BRField I found out what the problem was, my differential had developed a hole, which was common thing, and eventually my differential became nonfunctional due to no oil.

Posi. It's short for positive.

+Lou Fazio Or "Positraction" GM's marketing name for the clutch type limited slip differential. Ford uses the marketing name "Traction-Lok" clutch typed LSD.(Note: that is not the same as a Detroit Locker). Both of those types are much better for high-performance driving on dry pavement. Ex: doing burnouts.

I don't know the answer - maybe someone else does?

And offroading too specialy extrem 4x4

Joni English I wonder the same thing...

@@blkmaxx i do not think you need it maybe on the OLDER 1979 and 1970 posi Diffs

Sorry, I don't

A friction additive is not supposed to be added with this type. Only with the LS clutch plates design. Only 75w90 GL5 synthetic oil.

The LSD additives are primarily for clutch-type limited slips, which this isn't.

With a limited slip, both rear wheels will break free and lose traction. Depending on suspension alignment and slight steering input, it will slide one way or the other.

That is the "right hand rule" of torque. If you take your right hand and spin the top away from you, your thumb points to the left, which is the direction of the "push" of the torque causing the rear of the car to slide right which makes the car turn to the left. www.google.com/search?q=torque+right+hand+rule&rlz=1C1ASUM_enUS843US843&oq=torque+right+hand+rule&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l7.4423j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Although, the right hand rule can be overcome by a greater force (gravity) if the road crown or tilt is greater.

I haven't opened a G80, so I don't know.

Yes....the G80 has two clutch packs,...one on the backside of each of the two side gears. Engagement of which is governed by a ramped side gear/cam gear combo on ONE of the side gears....the other side gear has a clutch pack, but no ramping mechanism. The power from the ramped side gear clutch pack is transferred to the other clutch pack, via the central transfer block.

I don't know of a way to manually lock it - the diff cover is smooth on the inside.

why does my Safari differential slip and or clunk after a stop and sometimes when automatic shifts gears...180k miles...some have said worn bearings? ....previous owner did pull a trailer quite a bit...no grinding noises....all seems quite ...but very annoying clunk

That clunking you hear is from free play in the ring and pinion gear due to high mileage and heavy towing, probably without anyone ever changing the gear oil.

+Rod Palm thanks for the comeback..I had been told it was either worn bearings or worn ring gear and pinion..bearing replacement $ 500...gear and total rebuild $1300...😞

Dudeareno Rodent that suck man their charging me the same. thing is the kit cost more than the whole car lol.😓😶

1965chevell thanks for a very well explanation this guy sounds intelligent but he knows nothing

MoneyMarcMes G80 code on glovebox sticker denotes limited slip.

Did you ever get this taken care of? My husband has the same issue right now and he wants to know the best way to fix it.

Not all GM trucks have this. Look at the codes in your glove box and look for G80. If it's there then you have it

2500 and 3500 HD has em

Don't let one wheel spin by itself 100 RPM at low speeds if so you could be fucked..

Your right Justin

I don't know the answer to that... but I wouldn't think so. I'd think it just makes a click as it locks, then nothing would move, so it should make a noise.

the diff doesn't really make any noise though you can chirp the tires depending on conditions. my example of having that happen was one wheel on snow and the other on pavement while pulling out from curb side parking.

I have a 03 Sierra with this diff and I can tell you I don't hear a thing when it locks, but I can tell you I defiantly know when its working. It will only lock while on the power and when it dose, say while gassing it in the middle of a right hand turn around a corner, you hear the inside wheel chirping and feel and back hop a bit. If your too aggressive the rear will slide and you will start going sideways.

yes the make a clunking sound one wheel spins the other locks... terrible rear end in the snow ...I would prefer a limited slip over this locking rear end any day ...to me its just a cheap budget rear end .

MrIslandguy46 When you learn to take it easy turning it's actually a good rear end. Also its easier on tires than a limited slip because when you drive it easy its an open diff. Now as for the snow I have no experience as I live in Louisiana, but in muddy fields it works very well. I've pulled my friends 2wd Ford with an open diff out with my Sierra 2wd with the locker. I will say this though, I think the locker would have been better if it were an electric one like in Toyotas and activated with a switch rather than automatic.

+TaterTits You got that right my friend....

You should probably change the fluid in the differential, just make sure to remove the cover and redo the seal. Your going to want to check for metal shavings and if they're present, remove them. And check the bearings for damage. Basically just spin the differential with your hand and if you hear anything else but the gear teeth then consider getting the bearings and seals replaced.