Repairs should be cheap. That's my opinion, in general. I wouldn't send it out to get repaired. They're going to charge too much, and probably just replace the faulty component. You can do that yourself (depending on your level of disability). Really, there are only a few things that ever need replacing: 1) The brain (electronics). Really should only be necessary to replace if it is smashed or if it gets wet inside. If you're good with electronics - you could even solder in the effected part. 2) The batteries. They're batteries. Batteries die with time and with use. 3) The battery/sled connectors. Vibration and (dis)assembly cause these to wear out. 4) Wheels. They go bald over time. Flats happen too. 5) Transaxle. stress and vibration can cause bearings to break. The gears are pretty large/deep. They will never strip. 6) Motor. It should last a lifetime, but parts to wear out/down over time. Anyway, that's really it. If you're having an issue - it's one of those things. Most of all my issues have been with the connectors, and getting bad batteries from stores. My current batteries have lasted several years.

Have you looked at replacing the batteries with lithium batteries because wet cell batteries are limited to 50 percent of the capacity and are very heavy

are the chairs easy to tie down on planes for safety issues. the last thing we would want is a mobility scooter moving around the plane should something happen.

miriam moore

Here is a question on my gogo scooter on the top where the battery is how you show your battery light if it's full or empty mine is not working how do I fix that

Hey, any help you can share... everyone would appreciated it. This video has had a few views, so it's obviously a subject people wish to know more about. As you know, I'm not an expert. However, as a consumer, I am an expert. The point of the video wasn't really to show the mechanical issues of the GoGo, but to just share some of the problems I've had with it and what I've done to mitigate them, including the problems of traveling with it. eg. Don't fold it up, because the airlines with throw it. It would probably be a good idea to have a video that shows all the workings of the GoGo, but I'd be completely over my head if I tried.

Rob NAustin llc

I have a go go 4 wheel scooter and want to know if the speed can be increased even if relacing the motor back end or motherboard

Don't worry about "FAA compliant". The only thing they'll ask about is the battery. They just don't want a battery that will explode or leak.

Thank you so much. My concern is actually taking it with me, into the aircraft to do my transit flights? I noticed that in Singapore I was pushed in a wheelchair for about 30 minutes in a very fast pace. About 7 Km/h the poor Lady that pushed the wheelchair was exhausted because it was a 35 min Transit. I really felt sorry for her because I was double her size and the flor was carpet all the way.

What would stop the front wheel from truning

They will reunite you with the scooter at the terminal. If you need a wheelchair to get from your seat to the terminal, they'll provide it. They stow the scooter with the luggage, and they put it on last, so it gets off first. It's best to just leave it together. They have a tendency to throw things, and if it's a compact box - they might throw it.

Q80 Vaper Like another scooter? No. This is a good scooter. This one has had allot of use, and any mechanical device will display problems after a while. There is no such thing as a maintenance-free car. There is no such thing as a maintenance-free scooter.

Sorry. It is a pain. I tend to replace both the charger and batteries at the same time. You may not need both, but if you find that you're charger was fine - you'll now have a backup, or vice-versa with the battery. Someone on another thread explained to me that the charger is probably fine, and that it's likely the connector that's the problem. The problem with this is that for most of us the point is moot. We are consumers, not electrical engineers. In my case, I may have some ability to figure things out, but when it gets down to a diode or capacitor - I'm just buying a new unit. Anyway, that's my advise - get a new charger as well as battery. you may not need both, but the problem is one of them for certain. Once you have the new batteries - you can try your old charger, and if you're really inspired you can return the new charger (unopened).

Anything I say is a total guess. That said, if the scooter does not roll with the key out - the brake is fine. I believe you have a short somewhere. It's most likely it's one of the 4 wires leading to the brake. I, in fact, have to change the brake on my scooter. My brake isn't working. The scooter rolls downhill when stopped. There's no beeping. I believe it's rusted and it's possible I could fix it... but, I don't trust rust. I'd bet that the brake would never work again properly, even if I cleaned it inside and out. So, I have ordered a new one. Anyway, check your wires. You might have to test them with a meter. Sorry, I don't know what the readings should be. I'd have to look the stats up, myself.

ABigOneLikeDaddys I figured that and Opted to get the 21 ah Battery's for $200 more.. ave 15-20 miles distance btwn charging.. but its heavier, about 10 lbs..

Normally the charger itself is fine, but the cable or connector gets damaged. So, focus on fixing the cable/plug and it will probably work again. It's just too easy to drive away with the charger connected, or pull the plug out by the cable. Both of these damage the cable, so it's the first thing to go.

try using piece of heavy gauge aluminum foil in receptacles instead of bending them ....

Pppppa

there are screws underneath ...... lay the scooter on its side......you will see them......oh when you start taking it apart, make a video ..... it will be a big help when putting it togeather

html

I fixed the scooter. I'm sorry.. I didn't edit/upload the video. I'll edit it now. Shouldn't take be too long. :-)

Marc Newman

Sheri has MS as well, and uses it for exactly the same reason. It just means she can save her energy for the walks she wants to take. It's a good little scooter. I can't remember what the warrantee was on it, but this one is way past the warrantee. I think it had a 2 year warrantee.

mrcnwmn great ! Thanx!

Margaret Vossler i

Dripping lubricant from the wheel? If you mean the front wheel - it must be coming from the sealed bearing, though there isn't a lot of lubricant. The front wheel(s) use skateboard bearings. You can replace them super easily and cheaply (under $20). However, the real wheels don't have the bearings in the wheels. There shouldn't be any lubricant in the rear wheels. That said, the axle does have bearings and should have a little lubricant, as well. The first thing would be to identify where the fluid is coming from. My guess is that it's coming from the transaxle itself, as is grease, which would mean a seal was broken.

+luannvan The easiest way is to just disconnect the speaker. Of course, you're loose the horn too.

mkcharland The bubble is a cover for the breaker. Just push the bubble in. You will feel a click if the breaker was triggered. The bubble will pop out after pressing it. The bubble is just there to keep water off the switch underneath it. I don't think that's the issue, though. The battery is probably just dead. These (wet cell) batteries don't do well if they fully discharge. It's best to keep them charged as much as possible. Usually, when they fully discharge (eg. sit for a long time) they become useless and can't take a charge anymore. The charger and the rest of the scooter is probably fine. The batteries are probably the issue.

Thanks, mrcnwmn

0

The clutch probably needs replacing, not the control unit. Last I checked, clutches are $90. They're not too difficult to replace as long as the motor area is not too rusted out.

can't remove the housing even when all the screws are out

The lever is to the brake. The lever is probably rusted/bound to the brake body. If you spray some WD40 on where it touches the brake - it may come loose. I wouldn't force it because the lever is pretty soft and will bend pretty easily.

Amy Gurowitz You need a long phillips screwdriver. Once the case is opened, the two batteries are easy to change. You'll have to unscrew the wires from the batteries too. The "pain" is really just the unscrewing/screwing of the case. It's easy enough to do, but it does take about 15 minutes to 1/2 hour to do (all said and done).

Yes maybe its still in neuteral dats happened to me so turn off ignition and remove then renove and reinsert key again

Why not Roadd test it locally for a few weeks before leaving? That is what I do with mine..You may also Ck for A Dealer Where your Going to on vacation to see if you can Rent One of theirs..I've done that also.. Pick it up along the way and drop it off on your way back home..

eileen zacconi yyqw

eileen zacconi l

Non

Hello, did you find the problem with ur scooter? I have the same scooter and it won't move just beeps 9 times.

@@randallrbairdjr.8302 I'm sure you have probably already checked this but... is the "neutral" lever in gear? Sounds like it's stuck in neutral. Does it roll?

Sounds like the battery needs replacing and is unable to hold much charge. Hope this helps.

Sorry. Yeah, everyones experience will be different, but these are electrical gizmos. Technically, they're very simple and can last a long time. But, get them out in the elements, add vibration, and the components will wear out quicker and in unexpected ways.

I just went to the auto-part store and got some automotive multi-purpose/high-temp grease. Something that is/was rated for transmissions. The loads and temperature will not be the same in the scooter, but they both have the same needs. Both are not going to see debris. So, what is good for a car transmission is good for the scooter.

Ron Malinowski, Jr. Sorry, I've haven't removed the rubber, myself. I suspect a bicycle tire removal tool would work to take the tire off. I suspect the noise is the rubber moving on the wheel hub while you drive. If I had this issue I would add some silicone adhesive to the hub when I put the tire back on.

I put on some green grease on t6he axle (tires removed) and noise went away

A connection loosened, and now electricity can't flow. The typical culprit is between the battery box and the sled. The battery is heavy and wobbles when you go over obstacles. This loosens the connections over time. I would look at the connections and squeeze the metal sleeves (in the connector) tighter with a pair of needle nose pliers (be gentle). The loose connection can be anywhere, but it's most likely going to be between two body pieces. The issue can also be in the brain, but that is far more unlikely. Also, be sure to check the fuse/breaker on the battery. It pops out when the battery is overloaded. Just push it back in.

If when your scooter dies, and recharging the batteries works for a short while, then the batteries are not holding a charge. It could be bad cells within the batteries. They'll show up as fully charged, when in fact, not all the cells in the battery are holding a charge. I have found that "Batteries Plus" have the worst batteries. I have had to return all the batteries I have bought from them. I would not trust them. Your best bet is www.monsterscooterparts.com.

You're the best! Thanks for taking the time to answer my question so quickly. Be well....

May I ask one more question? You mentioned that you purchased larger batteries so Sheri could get more distance. What exactly did you purchase from Monsterscooter.com? Thanks again!

I don't know which scooter you have, so I can't say which you should buy. However, here is a place to start: www.monsterscooterparts.com/mobility/mobility-categories/mobility-scooter-batteries/baboxas Find the battery box for your scooter and see if there are any larger boxes that fit your scooter. Then, find batteries that fit that box. You may also already have the largest possible battery box. Some scooters are sold with the larger battery configurations.

I assume that you just mean that you're having trouble lifting the seat off the scooter. Yeah, it can be a bit sticky. Here's the trick: 1) Fold the back down. 2) put each handoff either side of the seat, facing the chair. 3) Make sure your hands are exactly in-line with the post below, and your body directly above the chair. 4) Lift. As you lift, rotate the seat. The issue is that if you put any lateral pressure on the post - it binds and it doesn't want to slip out. Meaning, if you grab the seat from the front or stand to the side as you pull-up... you will pull the entire scooter with the chair.

This is probably a loose connection. The battery/sled connection is the weakest link. It's possible to tighten up the connection a bit. If you look at the metal female ends you'll see that they're spread a little. You can squeeze them closed a little. Of course, this isn't really a fix, as the metal will just get weaker, but it will work for a little while longer.

The lurching was caused by a bad connection between the battery box and the sled. At first I crimped the connector pins a little to make the contacts sit better. After a while the metal was just too soft, so now I put place little pieces of copper wire in the female-specific side of the pins. The correct solution is to replace the connector, but I don't want to spend a dime on the scooter if I don't have to. Just making the connection sit better is all it takes though. The other connection between the rear and the sled can also become loose. When it does the scooter simply doesn't start (it just beeps). When this happens I just remove and connect the back a few times until it begins to work. This is typically only an issue when I take the scooter fully apart.

If it's coming from one of the rear wheels, it likely means that the wheel needs to be taken off and greased.

Mary Goodwin

Paula Hare The scooter is very reliable. Sheri uses her scooter 3 times a day. We pack it in the car 2 times a week (dismantle it). She does everything from grocery shop to taking scoots through the park(s). It's an extremely well used scooter. It has been thrown by baggage handlers, fallen over, dropped, driven through the rain and snow, and may other things. That said, doing quick math: You've used your scooter ~470 times in 3 years. Sheri probably reached ~500 uses of her scooter within the first 6 months. At 6 months - the GoGo had no issues at all. Sheri has owned this scooter for 6 years, meaning it's probably been used ~6000 times. If Sheri goes an average of 1 mile each time she uses the scooter - she has effectively gone across the United States and back on it. It's a really well-used scooter. We'd buy another one in a heartbeat, and now that I know the issues it has - the issues are very manageable.

monsterscooterparts.com

check motor engage/disengage mechanics......

I call it a clutch too, but it's a brake. You can buy a brake separately. They cost about $100.

I did find the problem and it was there was no cutter pin or whatever on one axle allowing the wheel to spin. A new one solved the problem. I now have the scooter working fine, but go to bed and sometimes in the morning I get 6 beeps. The last time I cleaned the motor contacts and volia it worked. Am going to see if it's the same problem and buy new contacts or adjsut the exisitng. thanis for your help!!!

Unfortunately, I can... but first: You're comparing miles to hours. If we're going to talk about the amount of work a battery can do, we need to stick to one unit of measurement. "How many hours can you expect?" is different from, "How many miles can you expect?" Each is a variable and each can be optimized to get the most out of your battery. Your expected range has everything to do with these factors; weight, model scooter, speed, battery type(s), route incline/decline. You will aways get different results than someone else with the same scooter. It really depends on what you're asking the battery to do. Driving on a flat surface at top speed, most scooters will drive for 1.5 to 2 hours (a few will go for 3 hours). So, if your scooter is is dying after a 1 hour of constant use, the question is if you are putting extra load on it? Is the train uphill, Are you carrying a lot of weight? It could reasonable that an hour of use, in those conditions, is perfectly reasonable. If not... then: I have found that new batteries are horrible. I have had a 50% hit rate with batteries. I have bought batteries from stores which died quickly or didn't take a charge completely. Batteries often sit on the shelf in a warehouse for years, and they are bad by the time you get them. I've given up trying to buy discount batteries. I've had the worst experience with them. Finally, the charger is also part of the system. It's possible that your battery isn't getting charged fully. If the charger has a fault in it (typically, the cable or connector), it can keep the battery from getting charged fully. I have several chargers, and swap between them to verify if the charger is the issue, or the battery. There are other reasons you may not be getting the performance you expect, but these are the most likely reasons.