I've done this a long time, and it still feels great to look down at a club that you put together!

Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching.

Congrats. Glad to hear the videos were helpful.

I've seen that trick from a Mizuno video I believe. I think McGolf also uses it for frequency matching. For me in the time it takes to get the fishing line cut and lined up, I can have already weighed out 3 clubs, but if you're worried about dropping a pristine new head on the ground, I can see the appeal.

Ummm. I hope so too.

Love hearing that. It gets easier and faster as you get more used to the process and any little variations that can come up with different brands.

Great! If you have any questions, post it here. I try to respond asap.

@@EFGMC it was fun! I reshafted two 6-irons to try the graphite shafts, and I have to say- it was much more straight forward than I thought it would be. I really enjoyed doing the work on my own clubs. Thanks!

@@joebeagle1009 Fantastic. Of course you realize now no club in your bag is safe! The tinkering flood gates are open.

Sometimes I just need something different to look at in the golf bag. Also a convenient excuse for bad play!

If they are steel shafts, usually easier to torch it, then twist the head to break the epoxy bond.

I used cut grips for a long time but then was told it can lead to inconsistent shaft depth and length since the steel shafts start to cut into the rubber over time. Also it just gives an approximation of the weight, which can be off spec by a gram or more besides just stock weights all being slightly different. My way, at least I know the weight is right on. Though honestly, either method probably gets the same result within 1 SWP so I say do whatever you prefer. Won't get into the spining.😁 If it works for you and as long as you aren't paying someone $30 per shaft to do it, I have no problems with it. Thanks for watching!

@@EFGMC I do the spining myself :) so its cheap.

Glad you enjoyed it!

Yeah, I feel your pain. Those were 10g weights I used in about half the heads. I like the KBS Tour shaft but it's a PIA when it comes to swing weight. Just went with Nippon with my new build b/c I knew they are tip heavy by comparison.

@@EFGMC modus?

@@dcloder Sorry, yes Modus3 115 though the 120 and 125 are also more neutral. Stay away from the older NS Pro as they are more butt weighted again.

Depending on what heads you are using, you might want to watch this video also. Some Callaway hosels require a bit more work to get a good fit. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/m7mUqNeFmrS5ZGQ.html

@@EFGMC Thanks for the link appreciate it. A few years ago I built a set of Callaway X and your correct the shafts can be a little fiddley.

Thanks for watching. I don't believe that aligning the shaft in specific orientations is of any discernible benefit so I don't do it. But if you have the means to identify and feel it's a benefit, then I say go for it. I just would never pay for it.

Thanks for the support!

Thanks for watching!

I would use the level on your phone to make sure the face is perfectly up and down before putting the grip on.

Here is the link kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rdaGldaeu9nMqas.html

Yeah, I always default to simple when it comes to aesthetics. Logos down, plain black ferrules, single sight line putters. Boring stuff but less distracting for me.

I have one of each. Torch is always faster but don't love to use it on painted finishes. KBS Tours are working great. Only issue is the high balance point requiring extra head weight during assembly but other than that. Probably picked up half a club worth of distance with them.

You could also just pull the heads and not clean out the shaft tips so you still have the air tight seal for air removal. Then go back and clean the tips out.

​@@EFGMC - Sometimes that works. Sometimes, after removing the head, there is no epoxy plug to block the flow of air. I have had both happen.

I always do a side step when installing grips for just that reason. Also try and go smooth with it to lower the pressure so it doesn't spray out like a fire hose.

Those are tip weights you buy separately. They come in different sizes, weights, and versions for steel and graphite shafts.

I use the slit grip method sometimes, just have to be careful that the shaft doesn't start cutting into the grip cap and throw off the weight. SW on these came out to D3. These heads were all quite light to start with. Thanks for watching. Sorry for the slow reply. These youtube comments don't always alert me when they show up.

Yes to the shims. If you are concerned about the swing weight, you can dry fit the club together before epoxying and use an online SW calculator or app to get a very good idea what the SW will be. Just make sure you measure accurately and the calculator will be very good.

@@EFGMC Thank you!

Thanks for watching.

Good Questions. If you put a 5I shaft into a 6I it will play stronger or a 6I shaft into a 5I will play softer. I install the grip on to the shaft prior to swing weighting the head to account for grip and tape weight. Epoxy is about point 1 SW.

Start with this video. I do the entire build using very basic tools. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qN17pNif2d_QnYE.html

I do. It's just over 1 inch, call it 1 and 1/16 to 1 and 1/8. Are you trying to figure out final length with some used shafts?

@@EFGMC Thanks! I'll probably keep the same shafts (C-Taper Lite S) but at the moment I'm just playing with a couple swing weight and MOI calculators to see how they flow into my wedges (Glide Forged with KBS Tour S). I've got the wedges taken apart here but the irons are in FL. Using your head weights as placeholders, but I know I'll have to actually take them apart eventually to get them accurate. Thanks again.

The one in this video is from Golfworks. It's the smaller option and although I liked a lot about it, I would not recommend it. I've had two of them fail (bad motors). Ungraded to the larger 1/2 HP version now and it seems like the better choice. Hopefully it continues to be!

Graphite tip weights have narrow stems to fit inside the graphite vent hole. However some shafts have very narrow vent holes and will need to be drilled a bit more.

I think that if a shaft needed alignment you probably shouldn't be using that shaft. I've done a number of videos testing between PURE or Spine or FLO vs not and have yet to see any results that proves it's value.

I haven't done any Sims. M5 is the most recent I've done. No issues there. Have not heard of any weirdness with the Sim. Would recommend just pulling one iron head for inspection before getting into the whole set. If you see anything odd, let me know.

Thank you so much for not only the reply, but a fast one!! Some of the online bigger golf stores should take notice of excellent customer service like this.

Sorry, A ps.... love your work setup and very envious!!

It can be hard to find exact specs and the OEM websites will not have them but you can usually find some different charts online or look at some component club brands (like Maltby who shows the head weights) to get an idea where the weight should be for a blade style or GI iron.

@@EFGMC Thanks. It can be overwhelming searching the net for club specs, only to find yourself chasing your tail. Thanks for the info, Jon

Grip solvent, which is a mineral spirits based product.

Yes always clean out the heads while they are still hot and the epoxy is soft. Otherwise you will have a tough time removing it. Rust can just be removed with a wire brush or sand paper dowel on a drill. Follow that with a q tip dipped in acetone or rubbing alcohol to remove any last bits or oils. Never use WD40 is my view.

Thanks for watching. There are various viewpoints on Spine, FLO, PURE etc. My take (and I am planning some videos on the subject) is it does not matter if a shaft is oriented or not. Two main reasons. First, the shaft is bending not in a single plane, but in countless planes as it rotates during the swing so trying to align a shaft in any one orientation disregards all the other ways it bends during the swing. Second, if a shaft is "round" and bends the same around it's circumference, alignment is not going to benefit you. If a shaft is out of round to a point where say logo up produces a stiff equivalent flex but logo 90 degrees from there produces an R flex, that shaft is junk and should never have made it out of the factory. All that being said, if you are doing it yourself and not paying for it, then I say go for it if it gives you more confidence. As far as which direction to install if you do, some people will say with spine pointing on target line and some will say at 12 o clock position. I think more people lean towards the 12 o clock method but again I don't believe in it myself so don't have a dog in that fight.

@@EFGMC Thank you very much for the response. So, I guess I'll go for it. I'll try to match swing weights and see how well, or not so well, it works. Again, thank you. I look forward to seeing more of your videos on this subject.

To answer your question about Spine and FLO aligning the shaft, I would have to say after 17 years of doing both on ALL of my clubs and any I build for customers, I would NEVER think to play a club that I did not do the Spine and FLO alignment work on the shafts. Does it make a difference? YES IT DOES. To prove my statement, let me tell you a story of when I was looking to buy a used driver to re-build for myself. I found two drivers, exact same make and model, same factory shaft, same flex. Only difference was one driver the head looked like new, the other the head had a number of clips broken off the paint on the crown of the head. Well used to say the least. I decided to hit both on a launch monitor to see how they felt and performed. The driver with the like new head was terrible. EVERY ball I hit I hit a big fat SLICE with it. The driver with the well worn head, I hit it DEAD STRAIGHT and long. Same drivers remember. The worn driver was $20 cheaper that the like new one, but the worn one performed well and the pretty one was terrible. Maybe that's why the pretty one was still pretty, it never to use because it didn't perform. So I decided to buy both to see what I could do with the pretty one to get it to perform like the ugly one. I pulled the shaft from the pretty one, did a Spine and FLO alignment job on it and then re-installed it in the head and put the grip back on. Went back to the store and re-tested the pretty one on the monitor and this time I could hit it just fine. NO SLICE this time, just nice straight and long drives like the ugly one I tested. Bottom line here. SAME shaft, Spine and FLO aligned, it the same head, same grip, went from a nasty SLICE to a nice straight and long drive. Does Spine and FLO alignment make a difference. I'LL LET YOU DECIDE. IF you would like more prove, I can give you lots of cases where doing the Spine and FLO alignment work did wonders for the performance of the clubs.

@@donfisher6659 I'm definitely interested in learning more about this before I start this build. I'd like to speak with you about it, if possible. If you're on FB, my profile is under my name and the profile pic is of my business Reaper Arsenal-South. I look forward to hearing from you.

@@jasoncampbell501 I'd be happy to talk to you about how important Spine and FLO alignment of the shaft is to how the club will perform when it is assembled. I looked on FB and found LOTS of Jason Campbells but not you as far as I could tell. I do have a FB account and you can find me under Don Fisher. I'm in Aurora, Colorado. I'm NOT a big user of FB and have only used it once or twice since I signed up to make a friend happy. Maybe YOU can find me on FB and get it touch with me so we can talk.

That heavier shaft will add swing weight so the brass weights are likely not necessary. You might need different weights to ensure all the irons SW out similar but will need smaller weight ones for that.

Thanks AJ, I think I will let him hit one first and then if need be, I will have to take the heads all off again :-(. Although I think SW is a matter of feel, definitely the overall mass has increased with the heavier shaft. Cheers@@EFGMC

KZfaq_isn't_letting_spacebar_work.??_You_will_need_new_ferrule_if_the_old_one_is_deformed.Just_use_little_more_heat_to_get_it_off.

Thanks for watching and subscribing

All golfers can hit every flex. But I believe the flex they can control direction the best, in their chosen head, weight and length. Thus optimizes the fit.

@@johnknobbe8247 My point is that far too many people get too wrapped up in the idea of flex or hitting exact CPM numbers, and from my experience it's just not that important. Yes it has value, and my comment about hitting a flex vs. x flex was a bit tongue and cheek but still holds. See people going back and forth in there heads between 2 flexes all the time and it just doesn't seem to matter much. And I would argue whatever fitting differences you observe will very often be negated or a least flattened out after more time with the clubs.

Yes, the correct size shaft should touch the bottom of the hosel. Usually it's around an inch to 1 1/4 deep. If the shaft is getting stuck and not bottoming out, you might have the wrong diameter shaft, need to further clean out the hosel to remove debris, or ream out the hosel to enlarge the opening (last resort).

Will come down to the condition of the heads and if you are happy with the lofts on them. Also are you doing the work vs having the work done?

It takes 4-5 grams of butt end weight to change the SW 1pt so I don't worry about it. SW is really about consistency through the set of irons so the important thing is that you are doing the same thing to every iron in the set. As for layering, 2 layers you could reverse or just double up. Most shafts will be wide enough after the first layer that the second does not end up overlapping with itself. Anything over 2 layers I do alternate direction mainly so they can't all peel off if you get a little solvent on them before you're ready to install the grips. (This is especially important if doing grips in the cold, where the adhesive does not stick as well to the shaft).

@@EFGMC Makes perfect sense! Thanks for replying.

Yes they can be reshafted. You can send me a message if you want a price quote.

I'm not sure. Got them used, however they were standard length to start with which makes me think they were just the standard weight heads, not the over length light ones. They had the Modus3 120s in them and I switched into KBS Tour so that is where the main weight "issue" came from. Modus being tip heavy and KBS being more counter balanced. You can add as much weight as you want to the heads. I have 10g in some of the heads and the shafts don't feel loose in the slightest to me at least. Thanks for your support!

If you cut the shafts to playing length before assembly. If you have a SW scale, you can then rubber band the grip onto the end of the club where it would sit and take the measurement with the head just on the shaft but not epoxied. Just be careful that you don't drop the head when moving things. You could also go ahead and grip the shafts beforehand to make the measuring easier. You can also place a piece of fishing line over the shaft tip and them insert it into the hosel to temporarily hold the head on without epoxy. If you do the fishing line and preinstalled grip, you can also use an online swing weight calculator if you don't have a real one.

I change clubs every year at least because I get bored and I need new content!! About to build a new set in a week or two.

Some people agree with you. I have done sets using MOI matching and personally never found a benefit from it for myself but I know others who like that feel. The simple way to do it is progressively SW the set going .6 SWP (swing weight points) per iron going heavier from long iron to short.

Tip weighting basic rule is 2 grams per 1 swing weight point change. I like to weigh all the heads first and check if they have a constant 7g change. That gives a good indication of how much weight I might need to add to get everything in line. If you are talking about the graphics on the shaft, you can align them however you choose. I always default to logo down. If you are talking about shaft band stickers, they usually go an inch or so below the grip.

I didn't. It's highly unlikely that you are going to have a steel shaft outside of weight tolerances. And I bought these as a set from an eBay seller, so if one was off, it would have been a hassle to get it replaced at best.

I always say to use just enough epoxy to coat all the bonding surfaces. If you do this, you will have a small amount squeeze out of the space between the hosel and ferrule. That is normal. What you don't want or need is to essentially fill the hosel with epoxy. This is not really an issue with steel shafts however the reduced inside diameter of graphite shafts means the epoxy can squeeze far up inside the shaft which isn't good in my book.

​@@EFGMCYeah, I learned a long time ago not to put too much in the hozel. Makes reusing the shaft Very Very difficult since the tip will be full of apoxy and really hard to open back up. Awesome videos, great source of information and tips.

Never think you need a collared ferrule. Get whatever design you want regardless of collar. Epoxy will fill in that gap during assembly and perform the same task as a plastic collar.

@@EFGMC thanks a lot for the quick reply! Love the channel. Really informative stuff.

All the OEMs say they do, and usually they are pretty close to spec. On occasion you will find some random club out of spec but it's rare. Some people believe in frequency matching but I do not. I think flex overall is overrated in it's influence. I do think it's important to have similar feel through the bag for all the clubs so having similar flexing is important but I would never bother trying to hit exact cpm numbers believing that would make a true difference. I do believe however that weight is very important and that is where I always focus my attention. Consistent weight and weight progression are a bigger deal for me, and since weight has such a strong influence on the flex in a shaft, taking care of it, usually gets the other about where it should be.

@@EFGMC thanks for the detailed response sir. I am considering my first new set in over 20 years and have been trialling Mizuno, Ping, Callaway. If they all match swing weight then which weight would they work to or can the customer specify at the time of ordering?

@@JettyBuilder If you are ordering, they can match a requested swing weight assuming you don't ask for something wild like C5 and the clubs are 1 inch over standard.

Came from Golfworks. They have a few different versions.

I don't have a full list of what I use though I do cover it in some videos. Might try this one where I did the build with only basic everyday tools. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qN17pNif2d_QnYE.html

Sometimes but it takes a lot of extra care to not damage them during the breakdown phase. Also if they are on graphite shafts, then no. Personally it's almost never worth the effort to save them unless you have no other option.

Still use double sided tape. The dispenser pulls the backing off.

Yes, grip solvent for both. I however no longer use grip solvent with the ferrule turning. Just use texture free rag or paper towel and extremely light strokes and the results are better and faster than what I show in this video.

Any big box store will be a roll of the dice as to what you will get. Might get someone good, might not. I can tell you that they don't pay attention to SW. They are only going to just glue and go. If you want it done right you need to find an independent club builder or you can ship them to me! If you are interested in that, just email me. aj@smartstake.com

@@EFGMC sent email!

The most important thing in regards to swing weight is ensuring all the irons have a similar feel to them. The actual number isn't as important. Really just making sure your 6 iron isn't drastically heavier than your 7 iron etc. Weighing all your component pieces before you begin is an easy way to ensure more consistent SW. 7-8g between each head will give you a good uniform SW progression. This assumes you are building with a standard length progression (1/2 inch per club).

Because these are .355 tip shafts to go into the Mizuno's, the manufacturer has constructed the shaft to bend appropriately for the give iron head it matches with. If you were using .370 shafts in something like Callaway Big Bertha irons, you would usually need to cut the tip amount a certain length to play correctly in the iron head. After that, you would just be butt cutting to the final desired length and that would be the same regardless of tip size (.355 or .370).

Those just have a couple extra steps. I don't have a set available to do a demo on. The main differences are you will need to sand down the shaft tips a bit because the hosels taper in at the bottom a little. Hand sand them until they just pass though the hole in the sole. Obviously one side of the shaft will be sticking further through because of the angle. Just make sure that the shaft is at least even with the sole on the short side. Epoxy as with any club remembering to wipe off the sole in addition to the hosel. Once dry, sand down the graphite tip until it's flush with the sole. Next you need to buy some graphite shaft pins. You will need to epoxy these into the hole in the shaft as a separate step. Once dry you can cut off the excess with clippers or a hack saw. Again sand it down and then some light finishing sand paper and acetone wipe like you would with a ferrule. That's it.

The 7g rule is based off the assumption you are stepping in 1/2 inch intervals through the set. I think the balance point is pretty consistent in the AMT even with the weight changes.

I would stay below the striping during the sanding. To be honest I have never worked with any super elaborate ferrules with design all the way down, so I am not sure how they would react to sanding and acetone. If you have ferrules like that, I would sacrifice one and just see what happens from sanding and finishing acetone on a shaft without head attached.

@@EFGMC really appreciate the response. I enjoyed your club building techniques. Clean and thorough! Be well, sir!

I would look at Golfworks. Lots of shafts, also have a table that tells you the recommended replacement shafts for most any irons. This includes giving you the specs including whether the heads are .370 or .355 Pretty sure yours are .370

@@EFGMC thanks 🙏 a lot for taking the time to respond to my questions and for the great tips

Most of the time, it's very straight forward. If you run into any questions, just post it here.

Personal preference. If you have a caliper, you can measure the hosel outer diameter and try and match up a ferrule with a similar outer diameter.

People keep asking me about shaft alignment and I promise I have a video planned for this topic. Actually have a few videos planned but in the mean time the short answer is no.

@@EFGMC thank you for your quick reply!