Your local pro would probably do it for free...

But it really is so easy to use a swing weight machine/scale. I've had mine for over thirty years and I just have to have. But there is the other way, as long as you can get your clubs to feel similar, it makes for a better set of clubs.

Love it.

If you haven't watched this vid from a couple months back, sort of covers what you're asking about. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iKxynLJnnbidpnk.html

@@EFGMC Not sure how that one slipped through, thanks...

True. I altered a couple of the length measurements after just to see how close you needed to be and it seems that within 2mm it was still plenty accurate.

Totally agree. Very few people can tell 1 or 2 pt differences. Most important for me is just that all the irons have consistent sw.

So how easy was that conversion from cm to mm? ;D 1cm = 10mm

Thanks. Glad it helps.

Happy it was helpful!

Thanks as always for the support!

Thanks Paul!

Thanks Mark!

Thank you sir!

Hope it helps!

It's not. It's well good enough though as proved by the consistency against the SW calculators.

Not dumb at all. Really depends on the golfer. Some care / can feel the differences, some can't or don't. SW is really about matching the feel of all your irons although many people try and match up the SW through all the clubs in the bag. All my SWs are in a general range from D0-D4 through the bag but not all the same. In the end, SW is only one way to measure and of limited value. You can have a driver and a PW with the same SW, but they really won't "feel" the same.

Thanks!

Let me think about some ideas.

Good to know. I tried both Safari and Firefox will no luck.

I use a progressive SW set up like you describe where the longest irons are a bit lighter and the wedges are a bit heavier. That seems to work well for the majority of golfers. I don't know of a calculation to get SW from raw components. If you can dry fit everything together before epoxying, you can get whatever measurements you need.

@@EFGMCThanks for your opinion on progressive SW. Yes I can dry fit everything before epoxying, I put the grips on with air vs adhesive grip tape. Only problem is the shaft is already cut. I guess if I start with the longest club, say 5 iron for discussion, and SW is too light, I can use the cut shaft on the 6 iron. Thanks for responding. Cheers!

It will be very difficult to get your setup (1 1/2 over) in the mid D swing weight range. The extra length basically adds around 9 SWPs. That only matters though if they feel too heavy to you. If you never noticed it before, I wouldn't worry about it. If you did want to lower it, options would be getting or making your iron heads lighter or going with a much lighter shaft, possibly counterbalanced.

@@EFGMC Thanks for the reply! I'm actually doing some work with my 7-Iron as the shaft broke on it a year ago and I had the local pro shop reshaft it. However the head came loose so I was using your video to learn how to epoxy it back on. I did notice when weighing the shaft that it was only 90 grams, which seems to be roughly 30 grams lighter than my other irons. I'm also planning to regrip it with a Golf Pride midsize MCC +4 grip, which is heavier than the grip I had on it. Anyway, we'll see how it feels after those adjustments. Your videos have been incredibly helpful in learning some of these club making techniques I would have never dared try before, so thank you so much for making this valuable information available to us!

Yes it is. The balance point moving is evidence of the SW changing. This can happen because of head weight differences, shaft length, shaft weight, shaft balance point, or grip weight. Probably not a bad idea to take static weight measurements of all the clubs and see how those numbers compare with the results you got hitting them.

Thanks for watching!

Tip weights I usually get from Golfworks.

Some people will be more sensitive to it than others but I agree in many cases its not as important. I think having consistent weight through a set of irons is important and matching SWs usually indicates that though.

Mizuno #1, Ping #2. The rest is a crap shoot.

They all should be, or at least say they do. Usually an iron set will run around D2 and up to D3 or D4 in the 9 and wedge for a steel mens set. Women's and graphite will be less usually. Men's clubs usually seem to default to D2 with woods, hybrids, and irons. Wedges get heavier.

@@EFGMC thanks for that AJ. I have just ordered my first new set since 1995, I have been playing with a set of Top Flite Tour irons which have been great and have now been fitted for and ordered a set of Mizuno 921 HM Pro. Amazingly the best shaft for me is still pretty much the same as in my old clubs, a Tru Temper Dynamic Gold R300 but the weight has changed slightly.

Thanks for watching!

First question is why are you wanting to get from D3 to D2? Assuming all your clubs are the same, D2 or D3 really won't make a difference. If you want to experiment with counterbalancing that's one thing, but adding weight to a golf club to make it lighter is usually not going to yield better results.

Get some lead tape and put a couple 3 inch pieces on the back of the head. Then go try it and see how your body responds to the added weight. Might be better, might not. Only you can answer that question. If it doesn't work, just pull the tape back off.

I usually do just add a bit of length in my head for total length, however it's a 1/4 inch. A grip cap add right around 1/4 inch to the end. If I am using the cut grip, it is to get a swing weight measurement.

It usually not enough weight to make any difference where you put it.on an iron head. Are you putting the tape on the back of the head or on the sole. The tape shouldn't come off if you just put it across the back of the head.

@@EFGMC I’ve been putting it on the back not the sole. I have callaway mavrik’s so the back is not smooth. I think it’s just not sticking well enough. On average I’m adding 9-10 grams per club to bring it up from a C6/C7 to D0.

@@snakesvt Have you tried to really work it into the space with a hard rubber or plastic tool. The tape is quite malleable and should eventually stick if you can get enough surface contact.

Yes, they can be off. Just like any spec; weight, length, loft, lie. Any of them can be off to some degree.

If you can find a replacement weight. You also need the right Torx wrench and often some heat as they loctite it.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p7SmfZZolZPalWw.html

What are the lengths and grips used?

@@EFGMC Total assembled 7-iron length is 37.5 inches with regular Tour Velvet grip 1/64" undersize.

@@jscott4431 That does seem heavy. If you can get somewhere with an actual SW scale, it would help. That said, most importantly is does it feel heavy.

@@EFGMC Thanks AJ. Yes, I will get them checked with a SW scale. Oddly, they don't seem overly heavy, and I hit them well. The OEM specs list them as D2. Thanks again!

MOI is basically just swing weight progression of .6 or .7 swing weight points per progressive iron so you should be able to use it to do a MOI matched set.

Either the heads are heavy or the shaft lengths are longer. I've had to get rid of head sets before because they were just too heavy for the build I needed.

@@EFGMC well the pw head weights 294 grams. Shafts are standard length 7 iron 37 inches long. Shafts are dynamic gold 105 stiff.

@@ericpietrondi9186 What weights are you getting? What grip do you use?

@@EFGMC 5 and 6 iron d5. 9-7d4. Golf pride mmc 49 grams