Save yourself $100’s by buying buckets and the rectifier from the manufacturer. $168 from manufacturer instead of $250…quite a mark up. Muriatic acid instead of your scotch brite. Dissolves all grease, rust and plating and leaves a brand new bare steel fastener. No need for mechanical removal. Rinse in de-ionized water and baking soda to neutralize and it’s ready to go.

How durable to salt spray is this at home playing system based on your experience?

@@codyrhoades483 I am not sure about zinc plating durability bcoz I worked at Nickel electroplating. This kind of materials need to be rinse/ wipe after contact with corrosive materials. Salt water will always find its way to get below the plating surfaces if its not rinse.

Was just going to say the same. Muriatic acid is the ticket for dissolving rust and old plating leaving the original bare metal. Rinse in de-ionized water and baking soda and it’s ready to go. Skip all the other bs with the scotch brite pads. Buy the supplies separately. Save yourself $150 on the kit buy buying the rectifier from the manufacturer and all your buckets and the aquarium pump separately. Get the zinc plate and the mixtures from Caswell and you are ready to go

Vapor blasting or dry blasting isn’t good enough? I haven’t checked in a microscope after sandblasting but for the naked eye, it looks ultra clean after blasting. Acid vs blasting; what’s best?

@@RobertDaveMyrland absolutely not saying it’s “good enough” especially vapor blasting. But sandblasting or dry blasting does leave a rougher texture. For the ease, cost and the end result it’s hard to beat muriatic acid and then a baking soda/distilled water dip and dry. Then end result is all previous zinc plating and rust dissolved away and left with a perfect bare steel part to plate. Literally takes minutes in the acid…so I guess pick your poison

Thank you! Maybe I’ll give it a try someday. I import new wheels (in that color sometimes) so I suppose I’ve been lazy!

Hey, thank you very much. Always learning and getting better. I appreciate the kind words.

Thanks Nick! I think I've seen your incredible results on Instagram and really appreciate your order. I'm assuming this is the same Nick! I think the yellow chromate would be awesome on the Honda. Very OEM! I haven't tried the blue, but I've spent countless, and I do mean countless hours with the black on the yz300 and several customer engine fastener kits. I think that was my favorite and was fun being a part of bringing that into the dirt bike scene a few years ago.

@@mxrevival Other Nick! I'm the Nick with the KX250Fs who did the clear bedliner on the shocks that I Cerakote. (By the way, it doesn't hold up that well.) I've resorted to grip tape now!

Zinc by itself is not very durable, you need to use chromates after plating. If you look at any zinc plated (other than hot galvanized) hardware you can see a blue tint to them; that clear aka blue chromate. I also use their brightener solution, not sure if that was mentioned in the beginning.

Greatly appreciated!

Thank you very much my friend!

I’m stoked to help get the flames going again for you, Tony! thank you for the kind words, and I hope you enjoy the rest of the content

My pleasure, thank you for watching!

Thank you JB 🤘

Thank you, Todd is doing good too

@@mxrevival absolutely 💯

Absolutely dude! Feel free to use the contact link on the website if you have any questions about it. otherwise, you can find it under “shop tools“. Thanks for watching, and for your support!

Haha! Liquid hot plasma. Thanks for watching, Todd 🙏

jinx.. lol was thinking the same thing man

With great guys like you I think I will get there someday. Thank you for the support!

Maybe even better, this bike picked me?

Thank you brother

Thanks! I have never used heat. I've plated in cold temps too. No issues so far. I am sure there's a reason for the heat that's to our benefit but it has been ok! All the luster comes from going overboard on the prep stages & that's been enough the last two or there years. You're going to have some serious fun 🔥

Thank you! I'm familiar with chromates but not passivation. (Blue chromate, etc) I'll have to look into it & feel free to spoil other readers with more info if you can too 🙌

True! That would be especially great for the hollow hardware with hard to reach crud

Thanks for watching!

Thank you. This was probably a GoPro Hero 7 on a chest mount!

check restaurant supply warehouses... that's where i got mine

@@GreekPower Thank you

I'm getting excited again, spent the whole days and completing yesterday. The s*** came out amazing. That's right! This is your bike's big brother, same year and everything...

100%! In fact, I've moved to vapor blasting *unless* you really need the super chrome look that the wheels provide at base-prep stage. Most of the hardware is hidden after all once installed, right? Thanks for watching 👌

YES! I learned a new trick recently, go to the hardware store and get yourself some muriatic acid. Pour it into a bucket with a lid. You can dip your parts into that one by one on a little copper wire. It is insane, like piranhas attacking fresh meat. The zinc comes off in seconds. DO NOT BREATHE THE OFF-GASSING. I'm not sure which episode it was, but you can see me doing it in one of the 1989 Suzuki RM 250 videos. I think it's the very last one I've done. Back to the bucket, you want this so that you can throw the lid on it and store the muriatic acid because it only comes in a screw top gallon. Have fun, and again, do not breathe the off-gassing!!

I’ve never used a heater, not once. Cold temperatures haven’t had any adverse perfect either. 👍 warmest I’ve probably ever had the kit was 80° or so in the summer. But the temperature has always been ambient

@@mxrevival thanks man for the response!

Thank you! Maybe someday I will get there. Paying my dues for now. All you need to bleed your brakes in just a few short minutes is a mighty vac. If you have an air compressor, you can even get one that is pneumatic. Either way they are both kick ass and get the job done super fast. If you still can't get pressure after getting clean and air free fluid through the line, try tapping your master cylinder a little bit with the rubber end of a screwdriver while pumping the lever. You'll see more bubbles escape. If that doesn't work, zip tie your lever compressed into your handlebar overnight. It will be ready to go in the morning after a few primes and pumps. Mighty Vac: www.harborfreight.com/mityvac-vacuum-pump-39522.html?campaignid=17061467934&adsetid=139903934790&product=&store=&gclid=CjwKCAjw77WVBhBuEiwAJ-YoJN5m8UTygHtY6pBHr19Pp8VK7oQ0IMD7u_68jvX8A4V5pq3mgAexXhoClmwQAvD_BwE

@@mxrevival i actually ended up doing the Zip tie on the lever, i seen it on Dirtbike TV

Super excited to see those tied in with a kashima colored cylinder head... I'm sure you can, just got to track down the guy who will make them. They're probably a really easy part being that they are just flat.

Link in video description for you 👍👍👍thanks for watching!

💪

Thanks! Probably similar although some might like the slight difference and finish between one or the other better, than one or the other. I believe zinc has better corrosion resistance. Where nickel might get pushed off of a bolt by corrosion underneath it, zinc would remain the sacrificial coding that the corrosion “goes to” to attack instead. Even on a partially plated zinc bolt. For example

@@mxrevival great points! I notice the nickel plating often looks more like a chrome finish whereas the zinc often looks dull grey. In situations like your rebuild I think you made the right move as protection should come first, but damn you got a good shine out of that zinc 🤩 Great work 👏

When you do your regular amperage calculation for a bolt, you can also add multiple bolts to the plating batch IF the bolts you are adding are the same size as the first one. In this case, you would take your initial calculation, and simply multiply it by how many bolts or pieces of hardware are going in the tank. Example: let’s say a cylinder head bolt needs .2A of current during plating, and you have six of them total. .2A x six bolts = 1.2A If bolts (or whatever hardware) are not the same size, it is best to plate them separately or one by one. It does greatly affect the quality of the plating if you have pieces of hardware in in the tank that are quite different in size or surface area, rather, than one another.

BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE!

Gotta get her dirty and do it all over again 😍🙌 Thank you

Gotta get her dirty and do it all over again 😍🙌 Thank you

A properly plated zinc bolt will be just as durable as a factory fastener. In fact, you can even plate thicker than they do at the factory for added protection, on areas like axles, linkage bolts, etc.

No sir! Even a partially plated bolt cam still have the zinc act as the sacrificial coating. Thanks for watching!

@@mxrevival , Cool 😎

There are, but they all require about the same amount of work in the end. You can also send your hardware out to companies that will batch plate for you, but it never comes out like this. Just comes out “acceptable” which is usually enough for most people

That bad boy is included in our zinc plating kit - www.mxrevival.com/product-page/caswell-1-5-gallon-zinc-plating-kit-with-dc-power-supply-1 Thanks for watching and merry Christmas!

These are the one and only Pryme MX cleaning pads (you can Google that and it will pop up)

The kit I sell uses a standard 120V outlet. The rectifier in the Kit supplies 5A DC max which will plate anything you’d find on a dirt bike 💪

Correct, I only ever need to adjust the amperage

😂🙌

Agreed! And some are no longer available in their original fashion, or at all 🙌

Awesome! You can use the drop-down menu to select the Components you need. You’re going to need “the kit with rectifier” when you make your selection. Do you have some fun!

No toxic fumes in fact it actually smells pretty pleasant and a little “fruity”. The plating solution is good indefinitely as long as it’s not contaminated.

Daaaaaaaamn, Daniel!! Are you trying to break me man!? Hahaha.

Sorry, im full of it, dumb questions. It's a nice system, someone might even turn this process into a small mail order side hack, since none of our dozen clappers justify anything more than wire wheeled bolts for now.

Sometimes, yes. That’s usually the route I will go with washers to save a ton of time. Over five dollars each on Rocky Mountain for washers! In the case of the 1990 CR500’s original hardware, which has a specific shape on some bolts, versus “buying new” (or just about any true vintage bike) that is not so. This tool is great for avoiding spending $70 on axles as well. Some of which are obsolete, or in very used condition one found on eBay. Thanks for watching! -Charles // mXrevival

Get outta town! I avoid more offspring in EXACTLY the same way 🙌

That thing has been haunting me for so long! Thanks homie 🔥

🫵😎

Welcome early bird!

Great tip, we did actually move to that message but using muriatic acid. Not sure if that’s what you meant? It’s like a a bath of piranhas ha ha! Thanks for watching!

@@mxrevival they are the same thing as hydrochloric acid but it’s diluted with a different ph

@@mxrevival yes, the same thing, but usually "muriatic acid" is a dilute form, and most places in the world, except the US, calls it by its chemical name. Whatever works for you.

@@viniengel just putting it out there that ph value and concentration are not the same thing.

Hey Stan, it's true. It's one of those jobs that truly takes a ridiculous amount of time if you want a certain (perfect) finish when it's DIY. And I know exactly what you mean about using a plating guy. A couple weeks ago, I had a customer send in 37 pieces or so from a YZ 125. The idea was to do the prep on a super high level exactly like I do when I am doing my own plating. My thought was that, if I can get that prep way better than the plating shop is going to do it, and I just send it out for them to plate it only, then it should come back looking tits just like my stuff.... Wrong. It was nice, and it was definitely a time saver as well as being pretty affordable. But when I open the box, sort of expecting to see something crazy nice like I'm able to do it in house by myself, one by one, by hand, the whole deal... It was a little disheartening to see that it was just okay. Clean? Yes. Good enough for most people? Absolutely. Looking at it and knowing it could be so much better at the expense of one or two days time had I done it myself... A little upsetting. Having said that it's more than most people could ever hope for and would be completely satisfied with, but when you know there's more in there it's a bit tough to swallow. If I can ever be of service with one of our plating kits, I'd be elated to help you out with one. Email me here absolutely anytime if you have any questions: www.mxrevival.com/contact Thank you for watching! -Charles // mXrevival

@@mxrevival Thanks for the input. I may end up doing that.

I 100 percent agree with everything you said. Unfortunately, greatness and perfection come at a cost, which is your valuable time. I’m in the same boat, but nobody will do it even remotely close to as well if outsourced. I’ve tested it, even going so far as to do all of the perfect prep on a super high level before sending the parts out. I was pretty disappointed when they came back to be honest. More than good enough for 95% of applications, and they are protected again of course with fresh zinc. But the end result just wasn’t doing it for me. On the flip side, It’s very affordable and doesn’t take much time to throw them in the box versus doing them one by one yourself. That’s for sure! I will probably limit those outsources to a very particular situation, where the ultimate outcome doesn’t matter as much. Magazine bike on the other hand, all in-house for the ultimate control and result.

Good question. Truth is, just like most people, I’m always learning as well. I have since started using blue chromate at the end of the zinc plating process. I had been doing a ton of black, not even realizing it was the true way to end the process properly. I think it would be really cool if you explained to everyone what passivation means if you have time 👌 purely for other readers value add, that sort of thing is awesome.

@@mxrevival its basicly a varnish that gets on top of zinc coat when dipping at the end of the line for few seconds, once dry it adds a protection to the zinc coat , it's also the most hazardous products of this kit so it needs to be use with care especially yellow chromate

Thanks for watching 👍

Patience is definitely a lost virtue….

I like to look at “good” or “bad” as up to the builder to decide. You make a great point. It will come off if it’s ran too hard and gets too hot. The rouge will get buried into the zinc (fused) in my learning experience. So, going lightly will make it look great without removing the new plating. This is what I’ve learned through a few years of trial and error. These end up with a “thick” coat of zinc on them so to speak, VS a bolt from the hardware store, let’s say- for example. For what it’s worth, the rouge is also the finest compound for polishing and doesn’t offer much cut. Thanks for watching, Vini! 🙌

Have you ever worked at a shop? Lol everything causes cancer.

THANK YOU, BATMAN!! 👋🖖🤙🤘🤟👌✌️👈🤚

Thanks for watching! 🤙

Thanks for watching 😂

Wait until you see how much it cost for the next size up kit 😂

Merry Christmas 👍

@@mxrevival

We can’t all have good taste! 😉 thanks for watching, I think you’ll enjoy it if your ears aren’t bleeding