Hi Everybody, Welcome! If you have technical questions please check out www.Patreon.com/GraceAppliance By becoming a channel supporter, you'll get priority response to technical questions, technical data sheet requests, and help support the channel so I can produce more repair videos. Thanks so much! Andy

Kind sir, thank you for all your help with these videos. I have already replaced 2 of those sensors some years back, and I keep revisiting your videos when the defrost cycle has a new problem. Wish you all the best. A happy viewer from Greece.

Dear Andy, Your fluency & technical adequacy & simplicity in describing the issue is the main competency amongst the various DIY videos I've. ever seen in the media, Thanks .

Thank you for expressing how vital it is to solder & heat shrink the wire connections for safety and proper performance. Many people will use wire nuts without realizing the dangers of condensation and how it affects un-insulated wiring. My # 1 rule, I always solder and heat shrink all wire connections. I have the exact same refrigerator and mine has NO ground wire with a clip on the end??

Thanks for your video. After testing a high limit therm in hot water, which passed, I cut out the temp sensor. I left it in a running freezer near the coils with a mutlimeter attached. Few hours later, freezer reads 0 degrees, temp sensor reads 8.4K (whoops). I found out that on some older GE refrigerators they installed junky sensors. These have a rounded front and black on the bottom near the wires. I'm going to order 2 sensors through your link. I'm just going to keep this POS going a little while longer (you have no idea, I got it for free, it had been dropped!!) until I find a great buy on a new one. Thanks again.

your repair videos are the best on the market Thank You

Thanks, very helpful as the thermistor is definitely the issue. Now to fix it...the right way, not the easy way!

very thorough video. Easy to follow.

Great video. I use silicone on the wire nuts after the installation.

Appreciate this as well as your other helpful and informative videos relating to GE side by sides, I've got a 20 year old one which has been pretty rock solid for the most part. Recently replaced the defrost heater, thermostat, thermistor and evaporator fan motor. An FYI, perhaps? When testing each of the thermistors at the board (thanks for the shortcut tip, btw) I found accurate or in-spec readings only if resistance was measured when the J1 plug was detached from its socket, i.e., unplugged. Readings were way off when attached. Not sure what's up with that. Regardless, it's now operating like new again. Thanks again!

This is a great video, thank you for posting!

this is a nicely done video full of great information, thanks alot

Two questions: 1. How are you supposed to solder in the small space of the freezer. 2. How can you perform the ice water test witbout removing the sensor

Great stuff Andy...Thanks

Thank you andy video was very helpfull.

Hi, thanks for informative video! Question, are all three readings on the multimeter supposed to be the same? When testing the last wire(brown) which I believe is the evap coil sensor, it’s about half of the other amounts at 0.5. The other two are about 1.4.. does is mean that the coil sensor is bad? For context, the defrost heater element isn’t turning on during the cycle.. I did the continuity test in other vid so I think the thermostat is ok? Thanks for your time, and any help/info.!

Tks for nice demo and tips

Thank you. very meek and great.

Great video! Thanks!

Hi Andy, First, let me say I love your videos! I bumped into them just by accident the other day, and I'm glad I did. They're professional, calm, thorough, detailed, just a real pleasant place to watch and learn something useful. But I have a problem, and I hope you can help. We have a GE Profile French door bottom freezer refrigerator, model PFCS1PJXASS, bought new in 2008, and very similar to the side-by-sides you focus on. It has several issues, the most important being that the freezer won't stay consistently cold. This has been going on for several months now, and has gotten worse recently. When it misbehaves, it goes through large temperature swings, with actual temperatures inside varying anywhere from -7°F to as much as 36°F (I keep it set at 1°F). In contrast, the fridge section stays pretty consistently around 38°F, which is where I have it set. I've cleaned the "squirrel cage" around the condenser, and generally underneath the entire unit (a little dusty, but not bad). Using your videos, I've visually checked the outside part of the main control board (didn't remove to check for burned solder joints on the back side), and the interface display on the front, and didn't find anything obviously wrong. I found online a description of how to run diagnostics from that display, everything looked OK there too. Finally today I ran through your video (this one) on testing the thermistors, and got some unexpected results. Assuming my J1 connector matches the one in your video (can you confirm that?), and based on some information I got from a service manual for a very slightly older version of my fridge, this is what I got (temperatures inside unit very high because I turned it off for quite a while today): J1, pin 1 (fridge), actual temp. 42°F, measured 9.54kΩ J1, pin 2 (ambient air), actual temp. 66°F, measured 7.30kΩ J1, pin 3 (freezer), actual temp. 45°F, measured 11.74kΩ J1, pin 4 (evaporator), actual temp. 45°F (maybe a little higher?), measured 11.53kΩ. I fully expected to see a bad freezer thermistor, but that one actually tested pretty close to what I would expect based on the charts I've seen. Likewise the ones for the evaporator and ambient air. Surprisingly (to me), the thermistor for the fridge seems off a good bit; I interpolated from the charts, and estimate that the fridge thermistor is "acting like" it's at 52°F (actual temp inside 42°F). Is it possible that a bad fridge thermistor could be causing the problems I'm seeing in the freezer? I'm almost convinced it is, so I'm going to order a couple of thermistors and at least replace that one, and see what happens. But I would value your input, do you have any other ideas? One thing I should mention… One of the "other" issues with this fridge is that one of the fridge section gaskets is torn and brittle, and I plan to replace it (freezer gasket seems good). I don't feel any cold air around any of the gaskets, but I suppose this could be part of the problem too. Also, I had an appliance repair guy come out to take a look last week, and he's puzzled about what's going on here. He took the freezer apart to check the frost pattern on the evaporator; it seems fine, and we're not seeing any defrost problems. The fans and compressor are all working; I don't know for sure how well or whether they're operating at all the appropriate times, but they work. Thank you!

When checking resistance, the yellow wire (fresh food) sensor read 7.4 but the white wire (freezer temp sensor) and the brown wire (defrost sensor) both read Ol. Does this mean the sensor is bad or is it the control board that’s bad?

hi sir i think you make the best video here

That was great. Thanks a lot

Awesome video very informative

ty again u always save me ..anyway to repay you

Make sure you disconnect the plug from the board when you do this test, otherwise you will get incorrect readings from board components (this happened to me)

Great job

Great video!

SUPER JOB NICE WORK ANDY

Hello. GREAT video! What leads are you using to test from the board?

Where can we find the technical specifications showing the ohms and corresponding temperatures you showed us for our fridges? Your videos are the best, btw.

I think you should update your post. If you use the caps you should be able to seal it with silicone. It is not only easier, it works just as good.

Excellent video A++++++++. Thank you

Very helpful!!

GOOD VIDEO, 5 STARZ

very informative ,I would of used a insulated butt connector's.Question I have the GE side by side works excellent until we have a power outage or interruption we have to wait 6 -22 hour's before compressor & fan come's on why ?

Fantastic video Andy....this gave me some good insight on what to look for and diagnosing my problems I'm glad i found you on YT...keep up the good work... I've got the GE Profile Model #PSS26NSWASS - while your video is not the actual model, it helped allot, and THANKS ALLOT for that... If I can ask, whats your thoughts on temp running at 63F and not droping.....is it that same defrost sensor may be stuck....? i changed the fan 3 years ago but never the sensor....so it may be acting up now....? Hope to hear from you soon...

Hi! Great video. My freezer is too cold -10f. Both freezer sensors are off showing about 12.5 and 14.5 ohm at the freezer temp. Of 10 below. Could both be bad or possibly the board?

helpfull

I used the wire nut but capped it off with a glob of silicone to keep moisture out. Dont know how to solder and do jot have the tools to do it. Hopefully whaf i dis works for awhile.

Hello, Andy! I am a reader from Rio de Janeiro in Brazil. Congratulations for great tips and tutorials. I was just wondering if this thermistor is the same used along the evaporator fan, in the freezer and fresh food compartment.

Mine came up to 13.13. Is that close enough to assume this is still good? It did up very slowy gradualy from about 9 up to 13.13 before it stopped, if that means anything. ice cubes and water was about 32-33ish.

Hi Andy, I hope you can help I watched your video regarding the sensor. I have a ge fridge freezer and im in the UK .the compressor has been changed recently by a qualified engineer and has checked and cleaned everything , but the problem is that once turned on the freezer will reach -18 but the next day it will go to 3 degrees and starts to melt everything and then it will take hours to get to minus again. Hope that makes sense even the engineer is baffled by this so I thought I would reach out to you. Do you think it could be one of the sensors

Hi again Andy and thanks for the quick reply. I've got a GSS25SGMD-BS (2002) that had a defrost heater installed (GE Service) last Dec. 2017. Several months ago she started making noises occasionally and several days ago the fresh food side as well as the freezer side started heating up. I pulled the panel and it was caked over with ice. Cleared that and tested the defrost heater which is good. I purchased a thermostat (X10068) and sensor/thermistor (X10025) to self install with the idea to try the cheaper fixes first before calling for service. After learning so much from your videos I'm realizing that among other things I could also have a evap fan and/or control board issues. I'm not great with a multi meter but I can continue with testing to narrow it down. Would love it if you can suggest a priority list of steps to try. Thanks and much appreciated.

I have a GE model from 2002 and when I measured the resistance with the connector plugged-in to the board the numbers were quite a bit different than when measured with the connector removed. Is that typical? Since your video shows the measurements being taken with the connector still on the board I expected the values to be the same either way. My fridge was cold though, so the numbers with the connectors removed was 16K, 15.5K, 34.1K, 57.7K going 1, 2, 3, 4 (it has wires in all 4). With the connector plugged-in the values were 8.07K, 7.88K, 11.12K, 12.95K. Temps were 37 fridge and maybe 0 or so freezer (it was running just before unplugged and checked).

thank you ,Next

Andy thanks for these videos and great job. I did have several questions regarding the evap and condenser fan operations and the timer mode. Once you have established correct voltage from the main board, how can we be assured that both fans themselves are operating correctly, particularly if visually we can see the blades turning. Is there others tests/methods to identify fan problems not related to voltage issues? Also can you say what component governs the length of time the defrost heater is on and off. How can you diagnose if that is an issue causing ice build up? Thanks and Merry Christmas. Junie

Nice Video

Andy does the forced defrost mode in a Samsung bypass the defrost sensor, and can a sensor issue be interment?

Yes Andy , Both fans inside are running the fridge side is cooling and is also cooling not freezing. From the back I cleaned off any dust that was on it . There was a little water on the pan . And as soon as I plug the fridge the motor started running . Do you have a video on this procedure??

My freezer seems to be staying in defrost to long. the ice melts a bit then it refreezes into 1 solid chunk, it burned out the ice auger. It only seems to happen about once a day, I put a new board in it about a year ago (for a different problem)and a bit after that I added the heater in the door panel to stop the waterline from freezing. I tested the sensors and all 3 are reading around 9K. based on the chart in the video that's off because it was cold (just unpluged) but it seems odd to me that all of them would read the same? Any thoughts?

why were you testing onboard? You should unplug the connector so you don't measure resistance from the board itself. Or am I just mistaken?

Would a bad thermometer be the cause for a freezer to work but not the fridge ? Then when loaded with food both only get to around 40-45

Thanks for the video. Are the pins on the control board the same for all GE side-by-side refrigerator? Mine has the control board on the back like in your video but not sure all the pin wiring are the same.

Great video! Would you happen to have schematic reading? How do you get those J1 plug to test it?

I change my thermistor, but I’m still getting an Open reading. Could it be that the control board went kaput?!

What’s the ratio +/-on thermistors ? Thanks

You’ll notice the defrost terminator is 141 degrees F cut out, I’ve always wondered how many refrigerators GE has melted or houses they’ve burnt down with a heater stuck on defrost. I personally replace these units with an 80 degree terminator when i’m inside one of these things, much safer and yet plenty of time to insure a defrosted coil as determined by the evaporator thermistor while not interfering with the boards adaptive defrost capabilities. I sleep better at night, how about you GE ?

My door panel displays -9 degrees temp on the freezer ..never changes.. is defrost sensor the problem?

Hello I have a whirlpool fridge freezer, fridge and freezer are cold, but fridge section is not going to the temp setting that I have on the control panel, for example the setting on the control panel is set to 2c but fridge section gets to around 5-6c not lower, checked everything and all looks ok, so something is telling the damper door to close early, Would this be a sign of a faulty temp sensor?

Thanks for the great videos. But I still have issue. My freezer won’t defrost. I checked the defrost heater and it was bad so I changed it along with defrost thermostat. Still it’s not defrost. Please help me.

Excellent 1.21/2023

How do you know if the R134 in the refrigerator is synthetic or not?

Hello there! Are all the sensors identical?

Thnxxx sir

Hello Andy. If I may ask where can I get those leads on prongs. They’re neat cause they are thin.

Not sure if you still check this but worth a shot. I have a gsh22jstess side by side GE. My issue is the fridge is way too cold, even on the lowest setting. It seems the freezer just keeps blowing cold air in. The damper is just a simple plastic sheath, it blows open when the freezer fan blows. II checked the fridge temperature sensor and it passed ice water and room temp check. However when I checked resistance on panel on the back, I got goofy readings from all 3 sensors (the fridge one read way too warm, and the two freezer ones were too cold, but were the same). So I'm not sure if the control board test even went properly to use those numbers. If one of the sensors is bad in the freezer, could that cause the freezer to run too often and thus push way too much cold air into the fridge?

How do you know if the thermistor is bad? Open circuit? Where are the other 2 thermsistors?

Will adding solder to the thermistor connection change its resistance in any way thus affecting how it works and sending faulty electrical signals to the motherboard?

Hey Andy, I tested my sensors and found all 3 were off in value by quite a bit. Knowing the likelyhood of that actually being true was slim to none I unplugged the harness from the board and tested all 3 again. Sure enough all 3 were reading the correct ohms value. I would guess my main PCB is bad then I assume?

Hello, may I ask how can i know the model of my deforest sensor? I wanna change a new one for my LG refrigerator(GBB59PZGFS), but failed to find the model. I wanna confrim it before buying a replacment. thank you in advance

Hello Sir, I have a question for you. I have tested 2 brand new GE thermal parts. Same part number as what’s in your video, I also preformed the test off the circuit board as per your instruction and on all tests I show an open “OL” I tested my meter on resistors that I have and I get the correct reading so I know my meter is working properly. Any help would be great as my friend is loosing food. Thanks

I replaced the control board in our GYE22HSKMSS but it's still not cooling the fridge properly. The replacement board made no change in operation. The fridge cools for about 15 minutes but then stops. Is this what I should try next? Was really hoping this board would be the fix but that doesnt seem to be the case.

Andy, I’m getting 11.62 ohms on the defrost sensor with a temperature at the evaporator panel at 3.2 degrees.

Case of defroster does not work: If it's not the thermal switch(on in ice water, off in air), heater is good ( has 22 ohms resistence) and defrost thermister seems ok(+2C, 4 more than freezer thermister), then the problem is the control board=expensive, correct?

Thanks for such a super helpful video. I have a GE GSS25WGPDBB refrigerator. Few questions, actually 2-3 of them :) 1-On evaporator coils, I don't have frost/ice on the top 3-4 coils, while all bottom ones have frost and ice on them. Can that be caused due to a bad thermistor or an issue with system sealing? 2-Freezer is fine, but fridge is showing temperature in 54-55's, means fridge side temperature is not good. I tested fridge side thermistor and it's showing a value between 7-8K ohms, is it bad? Can fridge not being cold enough be caused due to any of the bad thermistor(my fridge has 3) ? Thanks again for the help :)

Great VIdeos!!! I have a PSCS3RGXCFSS and i ran the self test labeled 0 7 for thermistor sensor testing and my results were p1,p2,p3,p4, and 05. i cant find anything for that 5th sensor. can you share anything regarding what sensor 5 is and where it is located or is this simply a generic feature set on my mainboard and it has capability to support 5 but i only have 4? i'm afraid that the bad 5th sensor is causing some issues but wanted to ask you first. THANK YOU FOR ALL OF THE GREAT WORK!

Hello Andy , Hope your in good spirits...after replacing the condenser motor my freezer is still not freezing ! ? What do you suggest I check next??? Thank you.

Is there only one sensor? Is there a defrost timer on a GE GSL25IGRE BS refrigerator? Thought it went out, but cleaned coil. Working well, but won't cut off. Think it is the sensor?

Hey I understand you’re G.E. only but I’m getting 25ohms on the thermistor whenin a cup of water. How does that sound

I'm curious as to what a defrost issue would look like. My used fridge and freezer started getting warmer and after watching your videos, I think it may be a defrost issue, but it's not all the coils, its mainly a solid freeze on that copper line that runs along the blue wire on the freezer side. It seems to stop once it reaches the coils though. I'm stumped. Was hoping you might have some input.

How you know wich wire from the main board goes to the sensor, they all look the same? And wich plug ?

Hi Andy......do you have videos dealing with the condenser fan not functioning for a GE PFS22MBWABB? Also after watching your video on the side by side, I was going to check out the condenser and evaporator fans via the ohms readings from the P1 plug on the main control panel. However my P1 does not have a blue and white wire. My temperature control panel in the refrigeration section does not light up. What do you suggest? I have been told that whenever it does not work it reverts to default settings and is not actually necessary. True? Thank you so much. You do a great job in your videos. Doug

hi,after replacing main board refrigeator stated right up but runs constantly,refrigerator side way too cold freezing milk,how do i reset temp???got fridge side set at 3 and still feezing

Hi again Andy, I tested all 3 of the sensors and I am not getting any readings at all. What exactly does that mean? I watched the other video testing the heater and thermostat. Everything checked out OK. The heater came on by jumping it and the ohms were good.

Andy I have a GE profile refrigerator that occasionally does not go into automatic defrost mode and I do it manually by disconnecting the power for approx. 10-12 hrs, I checked your video on testing the ohm resistence on j1 terminal on control board.I METERED THE RESISTENCE ON J2-4.8K,J3-11.8K,J4-12K from pin5 terminal. Do you think that the sensor reading 4.8k in fresh food section could be causing the refrigerator to intermittently fail to go into auto defrost mode.Appreciate your opinion. Thanks.

Do you have a link for the shrink tubing

Andy I have a ge side by side refrigerator model#pfss5rkzhss that intermittently every 6-8 weeks fails to go into defrost mode and the freezer and fresh food sections become very warm. I then disconnect the power for approx. 8-10 hrs restore power and refrigerator will resume normal cooling.I have metered out the evaporator heater and defrost thermostat in freezer section and they are within normal specs.Also metered thermistors and they also meter out within the specs.I am unsure what else to check I believe the main control bd should be running a defrost cycle approx. at 24hr intervals.Does this problem sound like to you that I have a defective control board.Appreciate your thoughts. NOTE- I did replace the main control board in November of 2018 and had no problems until july of this year.

I can not tell what brand of refer mine is. Do all brands take different thermisters?

Hello I have a GE GSL255JGDBLS with warm freezer (27°)and warm Fridge temperatures(64°) I tested continuity on all three thermistors, 4.75, 8.38, 11.33 respectively. Is it safe to say the issue is not related to any sensors? TIA

Have you ever used wire nuts then sealed them off with silicone?

I fron Nicaragua

i have a fridge whirlpool WRR56X18FW01 is is a fridge just a fridge no freezer. that being said. how hard or what do you have to do to make it a freezer. can you make it a freezer.

if you can,t find the sensor for your fridge and your going to spice it in, are all these sensors generally the same ? just use the matching ohm chart ?

cambie el control board y el compresor no trabaja ni el abanico.

What reading should they be. Had two in the 4 ohm range and one at 6.5 ohms

So i tested my board and i didnt get any reading , so that means the sensor is bad?

If your evaporator is all frosted up and you’re checking the sensor for ohms at the control board what would my meter be reading if the sensor is good and if it’s faulty?

I bought the knock off sensor and had a quick resistance test and found the chinese knock off was just reading 10k ohms @ 77F .that's 5K ohms off the spec! Get the genuine GE parts only.

My sensor in my g.e. fridge isn't two wires it's one. Do I peel back outer cover to get to the two wires? PFE29PSDESS THERE IS 2 IN FRIDGE.