That I would like to see

Can you share some of those photos with us? That's amazing!

@@UAP23 Hello, sorry I don’t share my photos; but I do have some KZfaq videos taken by my Hitachi VHS recorder of my time in Antarctica at the Australian Casey Base. The following link shows a Leopard Seal stalking a Penguin then me. All the best. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rJyWl5ec19O2omg.html

The A1 doesn’t have an LCD display.

​@@swampscott2670 He said other photographers used LCD screen cameras and those failed, not the A1

Nice!

Where did you buy it from?

Best camera ever and a great first camera was mine at well 16 years ago 😂

Yeah I messed that up.

instaBlaster...

I noticed the camera suggests a different shutter speed with and without the aperture check enabled. Why is this? And does it affect the final image in some way other than changing the suggested SS?

​@@aldorosaless Without the Depth of Field preview button enabled the camera will have the Aperture of the lens set to it's maximum opening (lowest f/stop number, in this case probably f/1.8) so that the image you see you through the viewfinder is as bright as possible. Most all SLR cameras operate like this. When you enable the Depth of Preview button, the camera "stops down" (makes the aperture go to whatever you set it to that is higher than f/1.8) then the amount of light coming through the lens is less, thus causing the light meter in the camera to adjust the shutter speed to something slower to get proper exposure. Anytime you change the Aperture you direclty effect the quantity of light coming into the camera and also the Depth of Field of the final image. Since the Shutter Speed (assuming the camera is in Aperture Priority Mode) will change to get proper exposure, this will effect motion in the final image. Faster shutter speeds will freeze motion while slower shutter speeds will show motion by causing blur in the image either from something moving in the picture or from the photographer not holding the camera still enough during the exposure. Simply put, Aperture and Shutter Speed both effect the expsosure of the image, but Aperture also determines Depth of Field while Shutter Speed deternines Motion in the picture. Hope this makes sense. One of those things that's much easier to show than explain.

@@phototipster oh ok, makes all the sense in the world. I’m familiar with the effects of each, I just didn’t get why the SS changed with the depth of field preview button enabled/disabled. Thank you!

Thanks! enjoy that camera, they are great.

aaaah. That makes a lot of sense and I definitely didn't know that. thanks for sharing!

Back in the day when manufacturing companies actually used to care 🙃

I had my AE-1 for 30+ years and it never broke, even being drunk at parties.

hmmm very true. never thought about it that way. thanks Jake

shut up

Absolutely true I was flipping my phone the whole time

Jeeze what a mess. Ya you have to be very frugal with that oil. Apparently someone was not before getting it to you. It can quickly become more negative than positive. Glad it’s cleaned up and working now though

Some people can’t comprehend “a drop” of oil lol

haha wow thanks a lot man. glad I could help! let me know if you have any questions.

Image quality won’t vary at all that’s a given. When it comes to film the body means nothing except for features and easy of use. Glass and film stock make the image. You sure it’s not the A-1 aimed at semi pro and ae-1 at amateur? More advances features in the a-1 and ae-1 is much easier to use.

I’m really looking into the t70, they are interesting. For automatic mode yeah you have to leave it on A for all 3 correct. And yes the aperture is odd on the A-1 for sure. I honestly have never seen the al-1 or Av-1 in person, just in online searching. Not overly common I guess.

​ @Graham White The AL-1 is a delight. Mine still has its battery cover! My complaint with it is the wind lever is a bit floppy. This is a far better camera than the AV-1 for people who want aperture preferred. My favorite FD cameras are the AT-1 for manual exposure and the T-90 for automatic exposure.

A-1 is great, everything looks better with a fancy red shutter button lol.

Where can i buy a-1 camera?

@@howardratner4893 ebay is easiest place. otherwise check local marketplace apps

Nice! Hope it helps

Great deal for sure

Even with all the hype it gets, it really is solid

You are probably correct. Thanks Patrick

@@graham_white I'm late to the party on this one, but from my understanding (I have one and used it a lot) it was to prevent bleed-back from LEDs up to the prism and out to the mirror. An SLR works both ways. In low light long exposures it could have tinted or edged certain exposures. Also partly useful to prevent red on infrared films. Almost always used in conjunction with the viewfinder cover-blades to keep any light from getting through the viewrinders and onto the film. I used it a few times on some long star trail exposures, myself.

V true. Thanks for sharing!

That’s just so not true. While these features might be useful in a studio, the camera was definitely used in the field for commercial and journalism too.

Nice! Glad it was helpful, good luck on the hunt! Haha

Thanks Jess! Glad it’s helpful

Not as common but yes still very capable and available.

AT1 was my first camera. I bought it from a friend 40 years ago and it still works perfectly. Love it. Because there were no automated options, I had to learn about shutter speeds and f-stops and depth of field etc., which has stood me in good stead for any situation with any camera ever since.

Well what do you guys think I should go for my first SLR, here where I am A-1 goes for not much more than an AT-1, the option of auto for me as a begginer is great but would learn more and quicker if I had to do it all myself (AE-1 is so much more expensive here)

@@stefangrubesic2708 Both are great cameras and you won't go wrong with either of them. I used both of them for years. An AT1 will teach you about photography because you have no auto options at all. You can use the A1 in manual mode and it's great, but it's very easy to use the automatic modes all the time if you're not careful.

@@bountybar thanks for advice, I've gone to the rabbit hole of watching videos for hours now and I think it's gotta be A-1, for like 30€ more it's such a complete camera, but yeah I guess stop myself from keeping it in auto since it's apparently surprisingly good at it

Hard to beat b&w

nice! 85 isn't a bad deal at all. well done

@graham_white it does have the Canon shutter wheeze though. I need to find a bottle of oil that has the long needle on it so I can get a few drops of oil in the right place and it will be a good as new.

ya I mixed that section up, had a few people point it out me haha. Thanks!

Agreed!

nice! solid pickup

Thanks for sharing!

it definitely has a lot to offer

also both were mint condition. no box or anything just the camera itself. No scratches if anyone wanted to know. From the pics and In hand

The T series are great. super quick and easy.

I have no doubt you’re correct. Just got one and getting ready to put it through it’s paces.

I just purchased a second F-1 body. More than four decades of pretty hard use and occasional carelessness was beginning to take its toll on the my first which was purchased new.

very true, I can't believe I forgot about the manual metering. thanks for adding this info.

Without wanting to introduce any debate on brands and models, I want to add some experiences with other cameras of the same characteristics and time period as the Canon A series. From 1976 Minolta introduced the XD model (XD11,XD7,XD depending on the market) It was the first SRL camera to have both the aperture priority and shutter priority mode as well as a mode called green that without calling it that is a kind of program mode which worked as follows. When in S mode and setting the dial to 1/125s (green mode) the camera tried to maintain a shutter speed of 1/125 and chose the appropriate aperture but could make shorter time changes if at the time of shooting it registered an OTF variation in the measured light compared to that measured before the shot. If the lens diaphragm was not in the A (automatic) position and one was chosen on the lens, the camera would try to maintain that minimum depth of field while changing the shutter speed if more light was required for that shot. Which made that camera a programmable program mode. Later that program was used in the X-700. In manual mode the XD displays the recommended and chosen speed as well as the aperture. The same can be done by the Minolta X-500 and the cheap X-300, but not the more famous X-700.

sounds great! no matter how much you know I feel like those first few rolls are a bit intimidating because you still feel like you have no idea what to expect. It usually ends up working out ok and gets easier quick. Enjoy it!

@@graham_white this is solid advice for life in general I feel like! Thank you : )

Thanks! I agree, good looking camera with a lot of capabilities.

Just wish there was a silver top and bottom version similar to the ae ones

Bunndog really? I prefer the all black.

@@graham_white Yeah, was always a fan of the old school vibe of the chrome colorway

Glad to hear!

So true. It really makes you step back and appreciate it.

I love the AT-1. It's SO much like the AE-1. Almost identical. And much better if you often want to over or under expose, the AE-1 is a pain and the AT-1 is great.

Glad to hear!

I had a program for my first as well, really great. Just be sure NOT to put oil in it in case it has the squeaky shutter

@@hamilton3901 umm why not? i just recently did this..

@@mybenny8 Depending on what oil you use it will get sticky and the camera wont work. This happened to me and now the camera is basicaly landfill. Back then I used WD-40 because I didnt know any better. But in the meantime I got a Nikon FM2 and another AE1 Programm so its not too bad...

sounds like a rad job! glad it was helpful.

Other than the squeak that pops up and the crummy battery door, they are very reliable.

@@graham_white there's an easy fix for squeak, just a bit of machine oil via syringe will solve the issue. Yeah many have battery door cracked, but I am lucky that on mine they still work great on both.

I agree personally I’m my go to is the Nikon F2. Basically bulletproof and will never let you down. And I’ve been fortunate enough to gather a rather nice Nikon lineup. But it’s nice to experiment with the big 4 like you said and luckily they are at a price point where it’s easy to buy and sell without really losing money or taking a big hit. And agree! The body only gets you so far.

For sure overlooked. They have basically no name recognition today in comparison to these three. Also much less popular to find thrifting etc since compared they sold a ton more ae-1 series

Still have yet to come across one but good to know

Ideally thats what I would have preferred to do. However These bodies haven't been serviced in who knows how long nor do I have the necessary tooling to make sure their shutter speeds etc are accurate so I can't guarantee the factory accuracy of any of them making a direct settings comparison very unreliable without spending a few hundred to have them all serviced and checked.

Thanks for sharing!

The A1 was ace. I have a squeaky one upstairs bought in Spring 1982.

Lolol nice. I’ve had about 6 programs, sold 4. Sold 2 A1s also but still have several. Every time I see one below 60 I buy

@@graham_white they are so easy to find. And i live in Kentucky of all places.

Solid pickup! What a bargain. There are videos on KZfaq where you can remove the baseplate or the lens mount plate and dab a small amount of yes sewing machine oil or nyoil via a small syringe onto the affected gear. Pros would say it needs a complete CLA which technically is true. But I’ve tried this method and it does work to clear out and lubricate the gears needed

Ha, nice! Well done. Hope they turn out great!

Not sure what third party lens you have, but one of the big advantages of shooting with the FD series canon cameras, is the Canon FD glass.

Mine too, Martin!

Glad it was helpful!

Glad to hear!

Did I saw the ae1p wasn’t the most expensive? If so I’m definitely wrong on that cause the program is the most expensive especially since it has that new beginner generation into it. THe A-1 I think is the best/ most features but yeah for sure the program is most. But again depending on condition you could find any of them more expensive or cheaper than the others. If you wanna go strictly by mint etc ya.

@@graham_white Yeah i agree, i want an A-1 in my collection as well as the AE-1P

Words are hard 🤦‍♂️ thanks for correcting that’s a obvious one. And yeah totally agree.

And the biggest one on the bottom is not exposure check but depth of field check ;)

Glad it was helpful! Nice, the A-1 is solid

Thanks!

100% agree

Glad to hear! Appreciate it

I have not heard this bit of info before. Much appreciated for sharing!

Haha thanks Michael! Although if your shooting planets I wouldn’t exactly call you a dummy. It sounds like you have a solid setup, glad I could help a bit. What don’t you understand about the exposure button? Hopefully that film turns out. It’s hit or miss when it’s been sitting in there for so long.

@@graham_white Thanks for the prompt response. I got my Vivitar 3500 to work, bad connections, however, the camera does not show the flash in the view finder and does not trigger the flash. The flash charge light comes on and will flash by the button.

A funny thing about someone else’s film that they left behind in a film SLR. I guess depending on your pov, you can take two different approaches. Either develop it to see the photos, or open the back, and deliberately expose and ruin the photos. When I’ve come across this situation after purchasing a film SLR camera from a thrift store, I’ve opted to expose and destroy the photos because I am concerned that there may be something inappropriate, sordid, bad or even evil or criminal in those photos and I wouldn’t want my lab to think I took those pictures. Just me, I guess.

Haha. Probably still works! Can’t always say that about a lot of modern cameras . Should Definitely pick it up and shoot a couple rolls, why not

…. That brass idea has me thinking now. That would be pretty rad looking. Thanks for sharing!

@@graham_white For sure. I would do it the A-1 I have but I hear its only "Metalized" plastic on the top and bottom covers and not solid brass like the EF. Apparently, you can strip the paint with a chem stripper, put the brass parts in a vinager bath for a bit just to get the "bright" off and then let mother nature take over from there. You can also use a toothpick and some model enamel to repaint the lettering, etc. I say go for it man, I'd love to see that video series.

Haha. Jeeze. It’s crazy how they depreciate. Even faster now than before. Film will hold value far longer than digital

@@graham_white Absolutely. The demand for digital cameras are in decline. I stand by film.

@@map3384 always debating if I should stockpile and then make a lot of money in 5-10 years.

Nice! Always solid to find a 50 1.4 for sure

@@graham_white Well, it looks like it might not be the deal I thought. The camera is in mint condition, but it wasn't showing any electronic info in the viewfinder. The battery was dead so I replaced it but nothing has changed. I didn't notice any issue like corrosion with the battery compartment so I'm thinking of getting it serviced but not sure if it's worth it. Any suggestions?

@@mrxman581 could be. A service for that could be cheap or more than what the camera is worth. Other option is sell it on ebay "as is" or for parts with the info on whats wrong. usually someone will buy and fix and then you can get a working model.

@@graham_white Good suggestions. Thanks.

Quite a bit ha.

Thanks Karel!

wish I could say it was mine. www.tapanddye.com/collections/all-products

haha, soon enough.

@@graham_white still waiting for, come ooon.

@@OcakVideoFilm haha that video has been up for a while! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/irB8fcd13MW-p30.html

you would think so but unfortunately it doesn't work that way.

@@graham_white In that case i'll buy an A-1 instead of the AE-1 Program. Shame on Canon not being able to offer a mode that is already used internal on this camera !!

@@oliverweber6842 ha. It's just like companies today, they could easily incorporate all their features in to one product but instead they offer 5 products so you have to pick and choose and buy multiple.

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks! Glad to hear it

Dang. Solid pickup!

Glad it was helpful!

correct. Went over that in my EF vid. I mean you don't need a battery to operate the camera unless you want added features or long exposure speeds which most people would never use.

Totally get that

Thanks!

I figured that may be the case. Thanks Edward!

The Canon F-1 is the Professional model. The Canon A-1 is the prosumer model and the Ae-1 program is a consumer model.

What exactly do you mean by that?

@@scubascatman8157 you gain more settings, capabilities and controls the higher you go. modern example would be like your cellphone would be considered a "consumer" camera smaller fixed lens cameras might be prosumer and a big mirrorless or DSLR would be a professional camera. make sense?

@@graham_white I've seen comparisons between the two and the image quality is equal so why would you grant the F-1 pro status?

Correct for anything below like 1 second it requires a battery

Thanks Chaco, glad it was helpful!

its a great camera! will serve you well.

haha, I am not. My Grandfather served in WWII and my father served but was never deployed, I thought about it for a short time but went another direction. Ha, I go back and forth with short and long, not sure how I prefer it. Cant go wrong with that setup!

If they are priced the same definitely the Nikon FE. more reliable, more lens options and overall I think a better camera. A 1 might have an extra feature or two (can't remember) but I think you will be much more happy with the FE

@@graham_white Thanks a lot. God bless !

You may consider the color reproduction of both cameras. Canon produces warm pictures while Nikon produces more cooler pictures.

Is is very odd, especially not changing the aperture on the actual lens but using a little dial attached to the shutter speed. Definitely not my favorite setup but I do prefer it out of these 3.

@@graham_white I would have the same preference if somebody asked me which one of these three is better :)

thanks! I agree on that Pentax glass, it is really nice. Just havent found a Pentax body I really like yet. Not that there aren't great options, just preference I guess.

I would pick it over any Canon A series for sure.

Very true

can't go wrong

Thanks for the support! For a beginner I would think the A-1 is the better option. it can be a bit confusing at first to figure out settings but it offers several automatic features so you can focus on composition and nailing focus. The EF is fully manual except for speeds slower than 1 second and personally my favorite of the two but you have to manually determine your settings for proper exposure.