Grand Seiko vs Rolex may not sound as natural a rivalry as Rolex vs Omega. But since distancing itself from parent company Seiko in 2017, Grand Seiko has declared its ambitions boldly; all Swiss luxury watch brands are fair targets. For 2021, Grand Seiko launched one of its most impressive watches to date: the White Birch SLGH005. This video is a comprehensive buyer's guide for Grand Seiko's Rolex killer.
Unlike many luxury watches, the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat "white birch" was nicknamed as such by the Grand Seiko designers who created it. Inspired by the Shirakaba birch forests that grow outside of the Shizukuishi Grand Seiko factory in Iwate prefecture, the SLGH005 employs a fearsomely complex 20-step process to recreate white birch bark on a hand-crafted watch dial. The 40mm stainless steel case reflects its Grand Seiko 9S heritage while also reflecting recent innovations in the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 series of which the Hi-Beat SLGH005 is a founding member.
Internally, the Grand Seiko automatic caliber 9SA5 embodies a sea change in Grand Seiko's Morioka-based mechanical watchmaking. This movement is a clean-sheet design that better fills a display caseback. Whereas the previous Hi-Beat 9S85 was 28.4mm in diameter, the 9SA5 measures a modern 31.6mm in diameter. Revised bridge architectures ensure that the larger movement also appears more symmetrical in layout and more attractive to the eye. Now equipped with twin mainspring barrels, the 9SA5 boasts 80 hours of power reserve against its predecessor's 55.
Still beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour, the new movement does so with Grand Seiko "Double Impulse" escapement that employs both direct and indirect impulses to the balance wheel. This system, which is similar in some respects to the Omega Co-Axial escapement, relies on tangential rather than sliding contact, and it helps to improve both chronometry and power reserve. A new balance architecture incorporates a full balance bridge, a free sprung balance, and the first overcoil hairspring in a Grand Seiko watch. Hacking seconds, a quickset date, and a new instant-change date mechanism round out the list of features.
The Grand Seiko White Birch is a fairly sporty all-around watch for a buyer who is suffering from Rolex and Omega burnout. Its size and price make the SLGH005 a strong alternative to the Rolex Datejust 41. The Japanese watch also sells for $6,000-$6,500 used, and that makes the full-bracelet White Birch a viable alternative to a new Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 41. With a full bracelet and 100-meter water resistance, the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat White Birch compares favorably to its Swiss rivals. Unlike the Swiss rivals, the Grand Seiko's famed "Zaratsu" case polishing and hand-crafted dials offer a meaningful taste of haute horogerie richness without the associated costs. The Grand Seiko SLGH005 White Birch has a retail price of $9,100.
For complete details, watch the full Grand Seiko SLGH005 White Birch review.
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