Thanks - I figured you might have some experience on cultivated grape varieties!

Try rooting ‘America’ or the wild grape, ‘aestivalis’. These and others like them are extremely difficult to root from hardwood cuttings. If I ever get one to grow I’d definitely propagate using softwood cutting methods.

@@Skashoon ‘America’ or the wild grape, They are in the Muscadine family, you only have about a 1-2% rate using hardwood cutting They need to be propagated from softwood cuttings takes from mid-June until mid- August

Do the cuttings need to stay out of direct sunlight while doing the propagation?

@@LacyO86 I don't know for sure but I've got some in a pot in my office and they are now showing signs of life. I've positioned them so they get a small amount of indirect light but no direct sunlight.

Nicely done. I haven't yet tried blueberries, but nice to hear how they do from hardwood.

Thanks for the encouragement!

How did it go?

I’ve tried propagating different plants in soils and had better success with just water. I live in Southern California, so we have warm, strong sun and long dry season.

Hi Ryan - I'll do what I can. I've done 2 node cuttings on elderberry, but not grapes. I don't see any reason why it couldn't work. The further out (on outer branches) the wood, the less ripened it will be. That makes more a difference for semi-hardwood cuttings, where you're selecting for proper firmness. For cuttings taken in mid-winter like this, everything it fully ripened, so I didn't select for it. No, I don't think you can make cuttings from leaves alone. Next question: depends on what you mean by "small pieces". I think the minimum for success would be the two nodes. In a certain way, propagation from the current year's wood "resets" the age of the plant - that is, there's no tissue on the new plant older than 1 year. However, for plants that have a juvenility requirement (for fruiting, etc) it wouldn't reset the age in that regard.

Thanks Fred. I know a couple of guys who propagate conifers in large numbers - I'll pick their brains to see what I can learn.

Conifers take about a year to root. Just do them and put them back at a border - pretty sheltered but outside, and leave them for a year - it's what I do and yes works. Xx

Thanks so much for those growing details. Very helpful

Thanks so much

I try to keep it moderate. What you see on the video is about a week after its last watering - I usually check them every 2 to 3 weeks, and allow to dry a little more then this before adding any.

dont let them dri out keep moist not real wet they need sun shine

Hi Sean. Yes, I've scored the base of cuttings in the past with mixed results. On some varieties of roses, it seemed to create some susceptibility to rot. For others it worked fine. I eventually stopped doing it (because it takes a little extra time, and when I'm doing a lot of cuttings, it really adds up) It's probably worth a try on grape cuttings, although they rooted fairly easily for me without.

Thanks Eric. The roots filled a 1 gallon pot, they leafed out and put on some growth over the summer and fall. Now they're dormant again, and I expect I'll be planting them in the garden in spring. So overall, it's going to be around 16 months from cutting to planting.

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm is it possible to skip planting in a 1 gallon pot and plant them right outside instead? Or do they need the year of growth in the pot to get firmly established? Thanks

Aww, thanks!

Between -10c and 5c (14f to 41f) for the winter - warming up through March and April

Good to hear Frank. If you're still deciding location, might be nice to pick a part-shaded location so the growing media doesn't dry out too fast.

Any time over the winter - the greenhouse was just where my "mother" grape vines were living at the time, but it's not required.

Jason, would that be the same for blue berry bushes? Or apple tree cuttings?

By the hardwood cutting method show, you'd wait until they're fully dormant - I don't know the details of your climate, but I'd guess November.

Two different cultivated varieties - but I don't have the names handy. They all eventually rooted, but yes, the ones on the southward side of the bin were way ahead. Black bins, unheated greenhouse, solar gain, south side. I'm thinking it was soil temperature that made the difference in how quickly they rooted.

Hi Angela - I'd try some now, and maybe even some a bit later. Mine went into the soil in mid-winter.

Fraser Valley Rose Farm thank you!

My pleasure. The cooler temperatures of winter help to keep the shoots dormant while the callus develops. It probably makes more sense to try semi-hardwood or softwood cuttings in the warmer season.

Thanks. I've heard some growers are successful with softwood - I hope it turns out for you

Update, May 31: After 7 days with moist bark in a plastic bag in my thermostatically controlled box at 80-82f and total darkness other than inspection. Most of the hardwood cuttings have callus. (Set mostly on their side with the top ends propped up 2-3 inches as auxin does interact with gravity to some degree.) Most shoots are not growing at all and none are over an inch. The strange looking thing is a few of them converted the lowest bud into robust starfish-like clusters of 8-12 roots about 1/2 inch long. Like the whole bud and remnant of the leaf petiole just became root tissue. Those buds were green and herbaceous and got dunked in the liquid auxin [~1500ppm]. I de-budded most of the others with a knife during prep, just kept a few for testing. I put all of the hardwood cuttings in a large pot of normal potting mix with some added fine bark and perlite for drainage and a dash of garden soil in the bottom layer (for a nutrient reserve and to ease later transition into the ground) watered, then covered with a thin white plastic bag and set in bright shade on the porch. Depth of bury is about half of cutting length, second bud from the tip right at or just a touch below the surface. UPDATE: after a week in the pot(temps around 65-70f), some leaves are developing so I started removing the plastic bag for a couple hours per day to avoid mildew and setting them in the open on overcast days for more light. About 2 weeks after potting up, removed bag completely, weather is mild, located pot for morning sun midday shade, water occasionally.

​@@FraserValleyRoseFarm V riperia cultivars and some rootstocks based on V. riperia are known to root poorly from hardwood, so softwood is the go to method. Since 101-14 has some riperia ancestry, it is May, and I just felt like experimenting I did both herbaceous/soft and hard. (No obvious softwood success yet.) I will try semi-hardwood later in the season.

Final update: 2021June 30 (5 weeks) 14 out of 19 hardwood cuttings are growing, 2 took about a month to leaf out. All are still in the same pot. 2 of 3 softwood cuttings developed roots but my conditions were poor and the tops died. None of the herbaceous cuttings had any success.

I'll cross my fingers for you

I think it's just patience now!

My pleasure Steve. I found hardwood to be fairly easy, but I've never tried softwood either. I heard from another nursery operator (Muscadines and More) that he's been quite successful with softer cuttings, so maybe there's a way to succeed with that as well.

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Just a quick follow up on this. In November, I took 7 hardwood cutting from my Hope seedless grape and put them into a 1 gallon pot in my basement (Where I'm overwintering some pepper plants) similar to what you presented in this video. I'm excited to report that at least 2 of the cuttings are starting to bud. Thanks again for the video.

Hi Dianne. The parent plants were on their own roots, and no problem so far - which doesn't mean it won't be a problem over their lifetime. BC has had some isolated problems with phylloxera. We're some distance from the main wine growing region (Okanagan) in BC, so hopefully we get lucky

The bees definitely make it into my greenhouses for pollination

Hi Vickie, I used my regular potting soil: a mix of composted bark mulch and shredded cedar fiber.

Hi Les. Brown can mean dormant - or it can mean dead. Giving the seller the benefit of the doubt to start, I'd assume dormant. If the tissue is mushy or foul smelling, that would indicate rot. If it's completely dried out, feels light and brittle, that's a bad sign too. I'd probably take a small knife and scrape the outer bark a few inches above the base. If the layer beneath is green or greenish white, and the cuttings are firm and not dried out, it's likely just in dormancy.

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you Sir. I really appreciate your reply. I transplanted it into a 5 gallon container with Jungle Growth media. There was no foul smell and I am hoping for the best. This is my first time trying to grow a grape vine and I think it's the coolest thing ever. I have two other cuttings transplanted , (Thompson seedless and a Red Flame), in case something does not work out. Best Regards!

Hi Liam - I went 1 per pot (1 gallon) and grew them through the rest of the season. They're ready to go into the garden as soon as it warms up. Total rooting time will be a little over a year.

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm well it’s summer here and mine have been growing a while. Is there a way I can contact you and get your thoughts on a picture of them?

I haven't tried pears, but I've grown black mulberry quite quickly and easily from seed.

Not a bad time, just a semi-hardwood stage rather than cool-season hardwood cuttings.

I haven't done it with grapes, but I've definitely propagated cuttings from rose rootstock suckers, so I see no reason it wouldn't work.

Always fun to experiment. I've had the best luck with fully dormant cuttings myself.

I tried air layering my grapes this year, started in late May zone 5 and had 4/5 successfully root

There's still a chance. I'd try to keep them cool, maybe part shaded to slow down the top growth

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm sweet. Thanks! It snowed last night so that should help stunt the growth 😅

Just time and temperature at this point. Higher air tems tend to encourage topgrowth.

Yes, I prefer a potting mix over water for propagation. I've done it both ways (on softer cuttings) and found rotting easier in the potting soil.

Hi Juliet. It seems your cuttings have their own ideas! Because they're not dormant, they're looking to send new shoots, which is not such a great plan for a stem with no roots. I have just as much luck (or more) in soil vs. water, so if it were me, that's how I'd do it. I might also be tempted to nip off the bud where the leaves are emerging. It's a gamble, but it might buy you some time for rooting and (cross fingers) that a lower bud will express once the rooting is underway.

Hi Toby. I've only tried it a couple of times myself. It's important to match up the green layer just below the outer bark and secure with good contact to the same layer on the rootstock. Check out JSacadura's channel for what I think is some of the best info on grafting.

Thanks.

I've seen people do grape cuttings at all times of year, but I've had the best success with winter dormant season cuttings.

Often the grafted grapes are on a rootstock developed to be resistant to damaging soil pests - this makes a lot of sense for vineyard owners. You could argue for the home gardener that it's less important, but if you're making a long-term planting of it, it might be worth the cost.

I buried up to the next node, but I didn't see any rot problems. In fact, I'm pretty sure they eventually rooted from the entire buried section of stem.

Thanks. I often need to remind myself to have patience (especially in propagation, but elsewhere in life too if I'm honest)

The hardwood cuttings of grapes are usually done when they're fully dormant, so you can definitely do a cool basement room or even outside in a sheltered spot.

Stim root #3

The roots on mine took about 6 months (including the cold season). You can start them in a pot on their own if you want, or 2 to 3 in a pot in case some fail. They're ready to go into the landscape when they're rooted to the sides and bottom of a 6" nursery pot

Hi Julie - no, these overwintered outdoors in an unheated greenhouse and just rooted naturally throigh winter and spring temperatures.

Thanks so much Fraser Valley Rose Farm

Hi Phillip - divide the suckers from the main plant or semi-hardwood cuttings (much like roses). They can be a little stubborn so look for a more concentrated rooting hormone - around 0.8% IBA

Yes. Grape cuttings are fairly easy even without rooting hormone

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you for your responsiveness and for the video! My parents are moving soon, leaving behind the vineyard that my late grandfather helped plant. I just took a cutting from each vine, hoping for some roots to form so I can preserve the family vineyard in some way.

I'd probably try bundling and placing in a bad with just barely damp newspaper to keep them from drying out. Check frequently - cool damp places are wonderful for rot.

Assuming the stems you receive will be dormant, there's not much I'd do differently. You saw the size I used in the video, and if you can cut down some of the side-shoots to a couple of nodes, I'd stick them too. Dormant grape cuttings don't require too much attention. A well drained potting mix (or sand), protection from too much sun or drying out. If you have some low concentration rooting hormone (0.1% IBA or similar) you could dip the ends.

I haven't had great luck with water propagation with roses. Potting soil seems easier for me.

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm i got hard wood grape cuttings and put them in cups with wet potting mix( peat moss,perlte,and a bit of compost)and covered them with plastic indoors. Do you think they will do fine?

For the hardwood method, cold is not usually a problem (within reason) - no, you don't need grow lights for this style of cutting. Just patience.

They're not quick. I think you'd be better off in potting soil or a well drained bed outdoors. In water, you get algae if you don't change it often enough - and that can be a chore over a longer period.

Hard to say without a visual, but if they're shooting nicely I'd be excited to see how they do this year. Grapes can be susceptible to powdery mildew, but that looks more light a white coating. Splotchiness at the end of the season isn't unusual in many plants - and even if it were a foliar fungus, at the point I'd just remove any dropped of dangling leaves and do a general cleanup to reduce the risk of spores reinfecting.

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm thanks so much!

It's more a cool season method. I think I used something like ProMix for the potting soil

It might be worth a try for fun, but I do find that if the buds get ahead of the rooting, the cutting generally fails.

Next year I guess...thanks, it’s very nice of you to take the time to reply...I really appreciate the depth of info you provide...peace

Hi Linda - for this hardwood technique it's in the winter, when the grape vines are dormant

I kept them sheltered in an unheated space.