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One of the most satisfying parts about riding fixed gears is the feeling of a buttery smooth, interconnected drivetrain. In this video we’ll talk about 4 out of 9 of my top tips to get your fixed gear drivetrain running buttery smooth, so you can enjoy riding your bike to the fullest:
9. 144 chainrings are better than 130 BCD
The two fixed gear and singlespeed standard BCDs are 144 and 130 BCD. Most entry level fixed gear bikes will come with 130 BCD, but 144 BCD is the track standard. Since the most durable and smoothest running components are usually made for the track, it’s easier to find higher quality 144 BCD chainrings. There are durable, smooth running 130 BCD chainrings out there, but they’re just harder to find. If you’re already upgrading your crankset, go with a 144 BCD crankset, so you can have more choice of high quality chainrings, new or used.
8. Make sure your drivetrain fits together: 1/8” and 3/32” components explained
The chainring, cog, and chain each have sizes that may or may not be compatible with each other. Drivetrain components are measured according to the spacing between teeth and the width of teeth
Fixed and singlespeed drivetrain components will always have ½” tooth spacing. The number that will change is the tooth width. Chainrings, cogs, and chains can either come in eighth-inch or 3/32” tooth widths. When it comes to width, the most important component to keep your drivetrain smooth is the chain. For fixed gear riders, for all intents and purposes, eighth-inch chains are universal. You can use them with any combination of eighth-inch or 3/32” chainrings and cogs. On the other hand, because 3/32” chains are skinnier, they can only be used with matching 3/32” chainrings and cogs.
7. Chainline
Chainline is how straight your chain is across your cog and chainring. A chainline that’s off may cause grinding on your gears and cause your drivetrain to wear out faster. Also the grinding just feels icky and isn’t nice to ride. Chainline is affected by your frame’s rear wheel spacing and the bottom bracket.
With high quality parts, as long as you have the matching rear wheel spacing for the frame and you have the proper bottom bracket for your cranks, your chainline should be straight enough to run smoothly.
6. Proper installation and cleanliness
Proper installation is key if you want a buttery smooth fixed gear drivetrain. When installing or maintaining, clean the threads with degreaser, then regrease ‘em once dry. Grease your bottom bracket threads, your bottom bracket bearings if you have an antiquated, inferior NJS bottom bracket (fight me), and your cog and lockring threads. This way, your bottom bracket won’t creak and your cog and lockring can be tightened sufficiently as to not slip when pedaling. Pro tip, DON’T grease your bottom bracket spindle or else you can over tighten it, damage it, and you’ll have to get a new one.
I recommend doing this every six months, more often if you ride where it’s wet and less often if you ride where it’s dry.
sources:
www.bikeforums.net/track-cycl...
www.sheldonbrown.com/chain-we...
www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed.htm...
www.bikeforums.net/track-cycl...
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